- Safety first (absolute must)
- Wear eye protection, gloves, steel-toe boots and hearing protection when using air tools.
- Work on a flat, level surface with good lighting and ventilation.
- Use properly rated jack stands under the frame — never rely on the hydraulic jack alone.
- Wheel chocks on the opposite wheels. Park in gear (manual) or Park (auto) and chock.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby if you will use heat/torch.
- If you’re unsure at any step, stop and have a qualified mechanic finish the job.

- What this guide covers (scope)
- General bolt‑on suspension lift kit installation for a Mazda BT-50 / Ford Ranger family truck (front and rear components). Kit components and exact procedure vary by kit and model year — always follow the kit manufacturer’s instructions and the vehicle service manual in parallel.
- Assumes basic hand tools and a beginner level. Notes extra/professional tools where needed and why.

- Essential workspace and prep
- Clean work area, organiser for bolts/parts, drain pan for small fluids.
- Take pictures of assemblies before disassembly to aid reassembly.
- Label parts/bolts if you remove many similar fasteners.

- Tools you will need (detailed descriptions and how to use)
- Floor jack (2‑3 ton capacity)
- Description: Pump hydraulic jack that lifts the vehicle.
- How to use: Center under manufacturer-recommended lift point (pinch weld or frame). Pump handle to lift, secure with jack stands before working underneath.
- Jack stands (pair, rated above vehicle weight)
- Description: Adjustable steel supports to hold weight safely.
- How to use: Place under frame rails or designated support points, lower vehicle onto stands slowly; never use cinder blocks.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Wedges that prevent rolling.
- How to use: Place behind wheels left on the ground.
- Metric socket set and ratchet (3/8" and 1/2" drive)
- Description: Sockets/ratchet to remove bolts/nuts.
- How to use: Use correct-size socket to avoid rounding heads; keep sockets perpendicular to fastener.
- Breaker bar
- Description: Long-handled bar for extra leverage.
- How to use: Apply controlled force to loosen seized fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 3/8" and/or 1/2" drive)
- Description: Tool to tighten fasteners to specific torque.
- How to use: Set required torque, tighten until it clicks; always use factory or kit torque specs.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Description: Open/box end wrenches for confined spaces.
- How to use: Use box end for best grip; support one side while turning the other.
- Impact wrench (air or battery) — optional but very helpful
- Description: High-torque power tool for quick removal of lug nuts and rusted bolts.
- Why optional: Speeds up work and prevents fatigue; don’t use for final torquing — finish with torque wrench.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40/PB Blaster)
- Description: Breaks corrosion on rusty bolts.
- How to use: Spray and let soak before trying to remove stubborn bolts.
- Hammer and mallet (dead blow)
- Description: For persuading stuck parts loose.
- How to use: Light strikes first; avoid marring surfaces.
- Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie rod end puller
- Description: Tool that separates ball joints from control arms.
- How to use: Place between joint and spindle, apply force gently; a press is safer but more expensive.
- Pry bars (large and small)
- Description: For levering control arms and aligning holes.
- How to use: Use leverage carefully to avoid bending components.
- Coil spring compressor (if kit requires removing or compressing original springs)
- Description: Compresses coil springs safely for removal/installation.
- Safety: Dangerous if misused — if you’re a beginner, avoid jobs requiring spring compressors or have a shop do it.
- Hammer chisel and cold chisel (for stubborn rusted fittings) — use carefully
- Punches and drift pins (for aligning holes)
- Rubber mallet (to seat components without damage)
- C-clamp or large vise grips (holding or compressing small parts)
- Torque angle gauge (for some fasteners requiring angle tightening) — consult manual
- Wire brush and rag (clean mounting surfaces)
- Anti-seize compound and thread locker (Loctite)
- How to use: Use anti-seize on bolts exposed to corrosion; use thread locker on critical bolts where specified.
- Measuring tape or ruler and qualified leveling tool
- Description: For measuring ride height and confirming lift.
- Hydraulic transmission jack or second floor jack (helpful to support control arms or axles when lowering)
- Why: Makes lowering heavy components safe and controlled.
- Replacement tools you might need (explained below)
- Air hammer, heat torch, new U-bolts, brake line extensions, extended sway bar links, new shocks — explained in "Parts that may need replacing".

- Common kit components you will see and what they do
- Front spacers or coil spring spacers / torsion keys: raise front ride height.
- Struts/shocks (longer or different valving): needed to maintain suspension travel and ride control.
- Control arm drop brackets or extended control arms: correct geometry when lift is large.
- Track/ Panhard bar relocation bracket: keeps axle centered.
- Sway bar drop brackets / extended end links: maintain sway bar geometry and prevent binding.
- Rear lift blocks or shackle lift kit: raise the rear via axle blocks or longer shackles.
- Extended brake lines and ABS sensor extensions: required if stock lines become tight after lift.
- Bump stop extensions or new bump stops: prevent over-compression.
- U-bolts (stronger/longer for block lifts): secure axle to spring pack.
- Steering stabilizer or steering dampener (recommended): control extra steering play.
- Brake line brackets, zip ties, new bolts/hardware kit.

- Steps (follow kit instructions first; use these bullets as a general workshop sequence)
- Pre-checks
- Measure and record current ride heights (front and rear) to compare after lift.
- Read kit instructions and vehicle service manual torque specs and jacking points.
- Lay out parts and verify the kit contains all listed pieces and hardware.
- Lift and support vehicle
- Loosen lug nuts slightly while vehicle is on ground.
- Use floor jack at recommended lift point, raise vehicle and set on jack stands under frame rails.
- Remove wheels.
- Front disassembly
- Spray penetrating oil on nuts/bolts (control arm, sway bar links, shocks, strut-to-knuckle fasteners).
- Disconnect sway bar end links (support bar to control arm or link). Remove nuts.
- If present, unclip brake lines and ABS sensor wiring from brackets that attach to suspension components.
- Remove lower shock/strut bolts and upper strut tower nuts as instructed by kit.
- Separate ball joints/tie rods from spindle using ball joint separator or puller. Support spindle to prevent brake line/ABS strain.
- Lower control arm slowly (use jack under arm) to relieve spring tension. Compress spring only if required and with proper compressor.
- Remove original springs/strut assembly or install spacers per kit instructions.
- Front installation
- Install coil spacers or new coils/struts exactly per kit orientation.
- If new struts/shocks are provided, lubricate bushings as instructed and fit with new mounting hardware where supplied.
- If installing torsion keys (for torsion bar systems), follow kit steps and use proper torque; note torsion bars carry load — use care and refer to service manual.
- Reconnect ball joints and tie rods, torque to factory specs with torque wrench.
- Install sway bar drop brackets or longer end links to avoid binding.
- Reattach brake lines/ABS brackets. If brake lines are tight, install extended brake lines or use supplied bracket extensions.
- Ensure trackbar/panhard bar location is corrected if required by kit (relocation bracket).
- Rear disassembly (for leaf-spring or coil rear — kit dependent)
- Support axle with jack under differential.
- Remove shocks.
- For block lift: loosen U-bolts, remove, lower axle slightly, install lift block between axle and leaf spring, fit new longer U-bolts and torque.
- For shackle lift: remove shackle bolts and install longer shackles per kit.
- For coil rear: similar approach to front — remove shocks, lower control arms, fit spacers or new coils.
- Install bump stop extensions if supplied.
- Refit shocks (longer shocks if supplied).
- Reattach brake lines and ABS sensors; use extensions/brackets if original lines are tight.
- Final assembly and checks
- Reinstall wheels, hand‑tighten lug nuts.
- Remove jack stands and lower vehicle carefully on ground.
- Torque all chassis/suspension fasteners to factory or kit specs using torque wrench.
- Torque wheel lugs to spec with torque wrench.
- Check clearance: tires versus fenders, shocks versus body, brake hoses free with full suspension travel and full steering lock both ways.
- Check driveline angles (if lifted significantly) — driveshaft vibration or CV life may be affected.
- Post-installation
- Take short slow test drive watching for noises, pull, or abnormal behavior.
- Re-torque all suspension fasteners after 50–100 miles (80–160 km) and again after break-in at 500 miles (800 km).
- Get a professional wheel alignment immediately after the lift.

- How to use tools safely and effectively (short)
- Floor jack + jack stands: always lift at manufacturer points, set jack stands before working, lower onto stands slowly.
- Torque wrench: always set to correct spec, tighten slowly, don’t “jerk” to click — apply steady force.
- Breaker bar / impact wrench: use breaker bar for controlled force; impact for corroded bolts but finish with torque wrench.
- Ball joint separator: avoid prying on studs after separation — strike the knuckle if needed, always support suspension members.
- Spring compressor: only if you must remove and compress springs; follow compressor instructions carefully — improper use can cause springs to release violently.

- Replacement parts commonly required and why
- Extended brake lines or brake line brackets
- Why: Stock lines can be too short after lift, causing binding or stretch.
- Replace with longer steel-braided or OEM extensions as kit recommends.
- Shocks and struts (longer, heavy-duty)
- Why: Stock shocks may not have the travel or damping characteristics suited to raised ride height; excess wear or loss of control if not upgraded.
- Sway bar end links or sway bar drop brackets
- Why: Keep sway bar geometry correct; prevent binding and premature failure.
- Track bar relocation bracket or new track bar
- Why: Lifts shift axle laterally; necessary to re-center axle under the body.
- U-bolts (longer/heavier grade) for rear block lifts
- Why: New blocks require longer U-bolts; stock U-bolts may not seat properly.
- Ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings
- Why: Aged joints/bushings are stressed by altered geometry and should be inspected and typically replaced if showing wear.
- Bump stop extensions
- Why: Prevent over-compression and protect shocks/coil springs after lift.
- Steering stabilizer
- Why: Helps control additional feedback and wandering after larger lifts.
- Driveshaft or CV joint modifications (sometimes)
- Why: Large lifts change driveline angles and can cause vibration — driveshaft changes or CV upgrades may be required for higher lifts.
- ABS sensor extension pigtails or brackets
- Why: Prevents sensor or wiring strain when suspension hangs down.

- Legal and safety compliance
- Check local laws regarding maximum lift heights, headlight aim, and brake/lighting requirements.
- Larger tires may require changing gearing or vehicle registration updates in some regions.

- Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not using jack stands: fatal. Always use them.
- Skipping alignment: causes tire wear and unsafe handling — always align.
- Re-using U-bolts or worn bushings: replace hardware where kit or manual recommends.
- Over-compressing or incorrectly installing springs: risk of serious injury — use spring compressors only if competent or have pros do it.
- Ignoring brake line/ABS slack: leads to line rupture or sensor damage.

- Final recommendations (concise)
- Follow the kit instructions and the vehicle service manual torque values exactly.
- Have a shop perform the wheel alignment and, if you’re uncomfortable with any step (spring compressors, rusted fasteners requiring heat and press), hire a professional.
- Re-inspect and re-torque fasteners after the first 500 km. Check for leaks, loose fittings, or abnormal noises frequently for the first few hundred kilometers.

- If you want a minimal safe approach (recommended for beginners)
- Use a professionally designed bolt‑on kit that includes extended brake lines and shocks, and have a shop install it and provide alignment. This avoids dangerous tasks (spring compressors, heavily corroded bolts) and ensures safety/legal compliance.
rteeqp73

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