- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile or work gloves to protect from oil and sharp edges.
- Work on a cool engine and in a well-ventilated area; allow the truck to cool for at least 30–60 minutes if it was run recently.
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be removing electrical connectors or the airbox—this prevents accidental shorting.

- What “blow-by tube” means on a Mazda BT-50 / Ford Ranger
- The blow-by tube (crankcase breather hose) routes crankcase ventilation gases from the valve cover (crankcase) to the intake/turbo or to a PCV valve.
- Common symptoms of a failing tube: oil in intercooler/intake, oil puddles under the vehicle, whistling or hissing from engine bay, reduced turbo/intercooler performance.
- If the rubber/plastic hose or connection is cracked, split, or the grommet is torn, replacement is normally required.

- Parts you may need and why
- Replacement crankcase breather hose / blow-by tube (OEM part recommended) — required if original is cracked, brittle, or collapsed.
- Valve cover grommet or O-ring (if the hose seals into a rubber grommet) — required if the grommet is torn or hardened.
- Hose clamps or spring clamps (appropriate size) — replace if corroded or damaged; new clamps give a reliable seal.
- PCV valve (if present and suspected faulty) — replace if stuck, noisy, or leaking; PCV issues can cause similar symptoms.
- Silicone replacement hose (high-temp, automotive grade) — acceptable aftermarket replacement if correct size and routed correctly.
- Small amount of engine-safe silicone grease (optional) — helps seat new grommet without tearing.

- Tools required (basic toolkit plus a couple extras explained)
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric: typically 8mm, 10mm, 11mm, 13mm depending on model)
- Description: ratchet lets you quickly remove bolts/nuts; extension reaches recessed fasteners.
- How to use: select the correct socket for the nut/bolt, push onto the ratchet, turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Use extension to access tight spots.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: used for clamp screw heads and prying small clips.
- How to use: match tip to screw head; turn gently to avoid stripping; use flat screwdriver carefully as a lever only where appropriate.
- Pliers (regular and needle-nose)
- Description: pull off old spring clamps, squeeze hose clamps, grip small parts.
- How to use: use pliers to pinch spring clamps and slide them along the hose; use needle-nose to reach small clips or to pull grommets.
- Hose clamp pliers or long-handled pliers (if available)
- Description: easier way to remove/install spring-type hose clamps without slipping.
- Why useful: speeds removal and reduces risk of the clamp flying off.
- Trim / panel removal tool (plastic) or flat screwdriver wrapped in tape
- Description: removes plastic clips and engine covers without breaking them.
- How to use: wedge under clip head and pry gently to pop out.
- Flashlight or work light
- Description: illuminates tight spaces so you can inspect hoses for cracks.
- Shop rags and some degreaser
- Description: clean oil from parts so you can see leaks and make good seals.
- Optional but recommended: torque wrench
- Description: ensures bolts are tightened to correct spec.
- Why recommended: prevents overtightening plastic parts or under-tightening metal fasteners; not strictly necessary for hose clamps but useful for other reassembly bolts.

- Preparatory steps
- Gather all tools and replacement parts before starting.
- Lay rags under the vehicle front where you’ll be working to catch drips.
- Remove the plastic engine cover (if fitted) by undoing retaining clips or bolts with a socket or trim tool.
- Take photos with your phone of hose routing and clamp positions—helps when reassembling.

- How to locate the blow-by tube
- Look for a hose coming from the top of the engine/valve cover area to the intake manifold or turbo inlet; on 2.2/3.2 diesel engines it often runs from the rocker cover toward the turbo or air intake piping.
- Trace the hose so you know both ends before you start disconnecting.

- Removal procedure (beginner-friendly, step-by-step in sequence of actions)
- Make sure the engine is cool and battery negative is disconnected if you’ll remove the airbox or electrical connectors.
- Remove the air intake snorkel/airbox or loosen the intake pipes as needed to give working room — loosen hose clamps with a screwdriver or socket and remove retaining clips with trim tool or pliers.
- Locate and inspect the blow-by tube for cracks, splits, hardening, or oil saturation; if you see damage, plan to replace it.
- Loosen the clamps at each end of the blow-by tube:
- For screw-type clamps: turn the screw counterclockwise until loose, then slide the clamp away from the hose end.
- For spring-type clamps: pinch the tabs together with pliers and slide the clamp back along the hose or remove completely.
- Twist and pull the hose off the valve cover fitting and intake/turbo fitting:
- Use small back-and-forth twisting while pulling; if stuck, spray a little penetrating oil where the hose meets the fitting, wait a few minutes, and try again.
- Avoid excessive prying on plastic fittings; use needle-nose pliers to work off the hose lip if needed.
- Remove any grommet or O-ring if it stays in the valve cover. Inspect it for cracks or hardening — replace if damaged.

- Inspection and deciding whether to replace
- Inspect the removed hose for:
- Cracks, splits, visible breakdown of rubber or plastic
- Soft or collapsed sections that restrict flow
- Hardened or brittle material that will crack when flexed
- Inspect mating fittings for damage and clean oil residue with degreaser and a rag.
- Replace hose if any of the above defects exist — temporary tape or patching is not reliable; oil/vacuum hoses must be intact.
- Replace grommet/O-ring if it’s torn or hardened; a leaking grommet causes vacuum/inlet leaks and oil leaks.
- Consider replacing the PCV valve (if present) if it’s old, sticky, or full of sludge — it’s cheap and often improves crankcase ventilation.

- Installation of new blow-by tube
- Compare the new hose to the old one to ensure length and diameters match; trim only if you are certain the replacement is correct and leave enough length for movement.
- Lubricate the inside of a new rubber grommet with a tiny bit of engine-safe silicone grease so it slides over the valve cover without tearing.
- Slide the hose onto the valve cover fitting and then onto the intake/turbo fitting; ensure it fully seats on both ends and matches the original routing (avoid contact with hot surfaces or moving parts).
- Position and tighten clamps:
- For screw clamps: tighten until snug and the hose does not rotate; avoid overtightening plastic fittings.
- For spring clamps: position the clamp over the hose bead and release; ensure a firm grip but not crushing the hose.
- Reinstall airbox/intake snorkel and any components removed, reconnect electrical connectors if disconnected.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

- Test and final checks
- Start the engine and let it idle; observe the hose connections for leaks or hissing.
- Rev gently and watch for oil mist or intake leaks; check intercooler and intake piping for oil signs if that was previously a symptom.
- Recheck clamp tightness after a short test drive (engine warm) and inspect for any new leaks.

- Troubleshooting tips
- If you still have oil in intercooler or poor performance after replacing the hose, inspect the intercooler piping and turbo inlet for oil, and check the PCV valve function.
- If there’s a persistent vacuum leak, listen for hissing and use a rag (carefully) near the hose joints while engine is idling to find leaks.
- If the new hose pops off under boost, check hose diameter compatibility and use a different clamp type or a slightly larger/different clamp.

- Time, difficulty, and when to seek help
- Estimated time: 30–90 minutes for a beginner, depending on how much intake plumbing must be removed.
- Difficulty: low-to-moderate mechanical ability; basic hand tools only for most jobs.
- Seek professional help if you find cracks on the valve cover itself, damaged turbo/intercooler, or if you aren’t comfortable removing the airbox/intake components.

- Final practical notes
- Always use oil-resistant hoses and automotive-grade clamps; cheap garden hoses will fail quickly.
- Keep OEM part numbers or bring the old part to an auto parts store to match replacements.
- Replacing the blow-by tube is inexpensive and usually fixes oil-in-intake or crankcase pressure problems when the hose is the cause.

- Quick parts checklist to bring to a parts store (if replacing)
- Crankcase breather hose / blow-by tube (OEM or correct-diameter silicone hose)
- Valve cover grommet / O-ring (if original damaged)
- Hose clamps (matching hose diameter) and/or spring clamps
- Optional PCV valve

- Concise use tips for each tool while working
- Ratchet/socket: choose correct socket, push fully onto nut, use short, controlled strokes; keep extension aligned to avoid slipping.
- Screwdriver: match head and size; apply steady pressure; avoid levering on plastic fasteners.
- Pliers: grip firmly but don’t twist hose like a screwdriver; use for clamps and clip removal.
- Trim tool: wedge under clip head and pry outward to avoid breaking plastic.
- Torque wrench (if used): set to specified torque and tighten in smooth motion; don’t exceed recommended torques on plastic bolts.

- No-nonsense summary
- If the blow-by tube is cracked or the grommet is damaged, replace the hose and grommet with correct OEM or equivalent parts, clean mating surfaces, re-clamp securely, and test for leaks.
rteeqp73

The 300 000 km Ford Ranger Common Problems In in depth video of common faults you may encounter during ownership of a PX Px2 or PX3 Ford Ranger or Mazda BT 50.

How to Replace Upper Dash Panel 98-12 Ford Ranger For More Info visit us at: https://1aau.to/h/rE/ 1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a cracked or damaged ...

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