Tools & PPE
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves.
- Basic: metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" breaker bars, extensions, universal joints.
- Wrenches: 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 mm open/box wrenches.
- Serpentine-belt tool or long 15 mm/14 mm wrench/breaker bar for tensioner.
- Torque wrench (up to 150 Nm).
- Multimeter.
- Screwdrivers, small pry bar.
- Wire brush, dielectric grease.
- Jack + stands or ramp (if needed for access).
- Optional: impact gun (use cautiously), battery terminal puller, alternator puller if seized.

Safety first
1. Park on level ground, engage park/handbrake, chock wheels.
2. Engine off, key out. Allow engine to cool.
3. Disconnect NEGATIVE battery terminal first and isolate (tuck away so it can’t touch battery post).
4. Use jack stands if you raise the vehicle. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Overview / notes
- Applies to Mazda BT-50 / Ford Ranger family trucks with front-mounted alternator where alternator is driven by serpentine belt. Specific bolt sizes and torque specs can vary by year/engine — verify service manual for exact numbers.
- Typical replacement parts: new alternator (reman or OEM), possibly new serpentine belt, alternator mounting bolts if damaged, new battery terminal if corroded, or tensioner if weak.

Step-by-step — removal
1. Prep & access
- Remove engine cover and air intake ducting as required for clear access.
- If battery blocks access, remove battery or move it aside (disconnect both terminals when removing).
2. Note belt routing
- Trace and photograph belt routing or follow diagram on under-hood sticker.
3. Relieve belt tension
- Fit a 3/8" or 1/2" breaker bar or serpentine tool into the square hole or bolt on the tensioner pulley.
- Rotate tensioner in the direction that relieves tension (usually clockwise on these models) and hold it there.
- Slide belt off an easy pulley (AC compressor or alternator) and slowly release tensioner.
- Do not let tensioner snap back violently.
4. Disconnect electricals from alternator
- Remove protective cover on alternator positive stud (if present).
- Remove main battery cable nut on alternator stud (often 10–13 mm) and detach ring terminal.
- Unplug the alternator multi-pin connector (pull tab, avoid prying on wires).
- Ground the disconnected cable away so it cannot contact the stud.
5. Remove mounting bolts
- Support the alternator with one hand or a pry bar under the case.
- Remove lower and upper mounting bolts (commonly 13/14/15/17 mm). One bolt may be longer or serve as a pivot—keep track.
- Carefully remove alternator from its cradle. Some units drop out rear-first; wiggle to free.
- If seized, apply penetrating oil, gentle heat (if available, cautious), and use a pry with protected edges — avoid damaging bracket.

Inspection
- Inspect pulley, belt condition, and tensioner. Replace belt/tensioner if worn/slack.
- Clean mating surfaces and battery cable terminals with wire brush.
- Check wiring harness for heat damage or corrosion.

Step-by-step — installation
1. Compare old vs new
- Verify new alternator pinout, mounting points, and pulley direction match old unit. Transfer any brackets or heat shields.
2. Mount alternator
- Position alternator and thread in mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten snug, then torque to spec (consult manual). Typical ranges: M10 ≈ 40–50 Nm, M12 ≈ 70–90 Nm — confirm exact spec for your model.
3. Reattach electricals
- Attach main battery cable to alternator stud, tighten nut securely (do not overtighten). Apply a small smear of dielectric grease to the terminal after cleaning to prevent corrosion.
- Plug in multi-pin connector until it clicks.
4. Refit belt
- Ensure belt routing is correct and pulleys are aligned.
- Rotate tensioner with breaker bar, slip belt over alternator pulley, release tensioner slowly.
- Inspect belt seating on all pulleys.
5. Reinstall removed components
- Refit air intake, engine cover, battery (if removed), etc.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal last.

Testing & final checks
1. Start engine. Expect charging voltage ~13.8–14.8 V with engine running (multimeter between battery + and -).
2. Check for abnormal noises (bearing whine, whining from regulator), belt squeal, or warning lights (battery/ALT).
3. Load test: with headlights, blower, and rear defogger on, voltage should remain above ~13.5 V.
4. Scan for stored codes and clear if necessary. Confirm alternator output current if available on shop tester.
5. Road test and recheck after 10–20 minutes.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not disconnecting battery: risk of shorting and damaged electronics. Always disconnect negative first.
- Tensioner recoil injury: use a proper tool, control the tensioner, don’t let it snap back.
- Incorrect belt routing or poorly seated belt: leads to squeal or premature failure — double-check routing and alignment.
- Cross-threading or shearing bolts: hand-start bolts and use correct sockets; if bolt is seized, apply penetrating oil and heat carefully.
- Reusing worn belt/tensioner: replace if >50% wear or signs of cracking — new alternator on old belt often causes premature failure.
- Wrong replacement unit: ensure same plug orientation, mounting, diode/regulator type. Some models use internal regulator; buying incorrect one will not fit or charge properly.
- Damaged connectors/wiring: inspect and repair before installation. A corroded main terminal will limit charging even with a new alternator.

How tools are used (brief)
- Breaker bar/serpentine tool: applies steady leverage to rotate tensioner and relieve belt tension. Use long handle for leverage; hold in position while sliding belt off.
- Torque wrench: final-torque alternator bolts to spec to prevent loosening and avoid over-torquing which can strip threads.
- Multimeter: measure open-circuit battery voltage (engine off ~12.3–12.8 V) and charging voltage (engine running 13.8–14.8 V). Test for voltage drop on main positive lead if charging low.
- Wire brush/dielectric grease: clean & protect terminals for low-resistance connections.

Replacement parts commonly recommended
- Alternator (complete assembly) — match OEM part number.
- Serpentine belt (recommended if >50% life or shows wear).
- Tensioner pulley (if noisy or weak).
- Mounting bolts (if stripped/corroded).
- Battery terminal or connector if corroded.

Done checklist before leaving
- All tools removed from engine bay.
- All connectors & covers reinstalled.
- Battery negative reconnected.
- Voltage check performed & within range.
- No warning lights, no unusual noises.

Follow the vehicle’s service manual for exact bolt sizes and torque specs for your model/year.
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