Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, deep sockets, swivel/extension bars
- Combination wrenches
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm range)
- Transmission jack (preferred) or high-capacity floor jack + jack stands + wooden blocks
- 2–3 quality jack stands and wheel chocks
- Engine support bar or second jack to support engine (if removing bellhousing bolts)
- Clutch alignment tool (sized to the BT-50 / Ranger input shaft or universal set)
- Flywheel locking tool or pry bar with helper
- Pilot bearing/bushing puller or small drift
- Snap-ring pliers, screwdrivers, pliers, hammer
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner, rags
- Medium grease (moly or copper slip) for splines, anti-seize for bolts if allowed
- Threadlocker (Loctite blue) if specified by the manual
- New clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc), new release/throw-out bearing, pilot bearing/bushing (if applicable)
- New flywheel bolts (recommended) / torque-to-yield replacement bolts if required
- New input shaft seal or gearbox output seals if leaking
- Hydraulic fluid (brake fluid or DOT spec for clutch), if hydraulic slave cylinder used
- Protective gloves, eye protection, dust mask (avoid breathing clutch dust)

Safety first
- Work on level ground; chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Use appropriately rated jack stands under the vehicle; never rely on a jack alone.
- Support engine with an engine support bar or jack under oil pan with wood block when bellhousing removed.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; use a dust mask when cleaning clutch surfaces.
- Be careful with heavy parts (transmission/flywheel) — get a helper.
- Do not contaminate new friction surfaces with oil, grease or brake cleaner.

High-level summary of the job
1. Remove transmission from vehicle.
2. Remove old clutch assembly and inspect flywheel/engine rear crank seal.
3. Install new pilot bearing (if applicable), new clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing.
4. Refit transmission, torque bolts to spec, bleed clutch (if hydraulic) and test.

Step-by-step procedure (detailed)

Preparation
1. Park vehicle, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery.
2. Raise vehicle using a jack and support on 2–3 jack stands. Remove underbody shields/access panels as needed.

Driveshaft / transfer / starter / wiring removal
3. Remove centre/propshaft (if 4x4) or driveshaft as required — mark flanges for indexing.
- Tools used: socket set, marker. Use straps to support shaft.
4. Remove front halfshafts if they obstruct transmission removal (on some models).
- Tools: socket set, pry bar; take care at CV joints and support hub.
5. Remove starter motor (unplug wiring, unscrew mounting bolts) to allow access to bellhousing bolts.
6. Disconnect any wiring, speedometer/gearbox sensors, reverse light switch, shifter linkage and clutch slave cylinder or release fork linkages from transmission. If the slave cylinder is hydraulic and attached to the gearbox, unbolt and tie it out of the way with no pressure on hose.

Support engine
7. Support engine from above with engine support bar or from below with jack and wood block under oil pan (do not stress oil pickup).

Transmission support and separation
8. Place transmission jack under gearbox, secure transmission to jack.
9. Remove all bellhousing-to-engine bolts slowly and in sequence. Keep bolts labeled by length/location.
- Tools: ratchet, extensions, swivel.
- Common pitfall: missing hidden bolts behind crossmembers or inspection covers — scan for every bolt.
10. Lower transmission slightly and manoeuver it rearward to disengage input shaft from clutch disc/pilot. Withdraw transmission slowly and lower onto jack.
- Tip: If input shaft sticks, ensure all bolts removed and use pry bar gently on bellhousing lip (not on transmission casing) while supporting weight.

Remove old clutch
11. With transmission removed, inspect clutch area. Remove pressure plate bolts evenly, gradually and in a star pattern to avoid warping. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Tools: socket, impact/drill not recommended for final removal to avoid stripping.
12. Inspect flywheel face for scoring, hot spots or cracks.
- If resurfacing: remove flywheel bolts and send flywheel to machine shop or replace if cracked/worn beyond spec.
- Common pitfall: reusing a badly scored or overheated flywheel leads to premature clutch failure.
13. Remove pilot bearing/bushing from crank (if applicable) with puller or drift. Replace pilot bearing if worn.

Clean and inspect
14. Clean crank flange and bellhousing mating surfaces with brake cleaner and rag. Inspect input shaft splines and rear main seal for leaks.
- If oil is present on the flywheel/clutch, replace rear main seal and clean or replace flywheel.

Install new components
15. If flywheel removed, refit/resurface and torque flywheel bolts to factory spec (use new bolts if specified). Apply threadlocker if manual specifies. Torque in correct star pattern.
- Tool use: torque wrench for final torque; flywheel lock to prevent rotation.
16. Fit new pilot bearing/bushing and grease lightly as recommended.
- Tool use: pilot bearing driver or socket sized to bearing outer race; press evenly.
17. Assemble new clutch kit on crank: use clutch alignment tool to center the clutch disc on the pilot bearing, then fit pressure plate over disc and hand-start bolts.
- Tool use: alignment tool inserted through friction disc into pilot bearing; when disc is centered the transmission input shaft will slide through easily later.
18. Torque pressure plate bolts to spec in stages, using star pattern. Manufacturer torque required — consult factory manual; typical procedure: snug evenly through sequence, then final torque value.
- Common pitfall: uneven torquing warps pressure plate and causes chatter.

Replace release bearing & fork
19. Replace release/throw-out bearing with the new one from the kit; grease contact points lightly per manual instructions (not on friction surfaces).
- Tool use: snap bearing onto slave or slide onto input shaft retainer as required.
20. Inspect or replace release fork and pivot ball. Apply a thin smear of high-temp grease to pivot points only.

Reinstall transmission
21. Raise transmission on jack and align input shaft with clutch disc using the alignment tool to guide. Carefully slide transmission forward until bellhousing meets engine and dowel pins seat.
- Common pitfall: forcing transmission misaligned can damage pilot bearing or input shaft. Ensure alignment tool removed when appropriate or leave in until bolts partially started.
22. Start bellhousing bolts by hand, then torque all bolts to factory spec in sequence.
23. Refit starter, driveshaft/prop/halfshafts, exhaust crosspipe if removed, sensor connectors, reverse switch, shifter linkage and any other components disconnected.
24. Refit and torque transmission mount(s), crossmember and any engine mounts removed.

Final steps
25. Reconnect negative battery.
26. If hydraulic clutch, bleed clutch system (start at slave cylinder) until pedal is firm. Use correct fluid and follow bleed sequence. Check for leaks.
27. Check gearbox oil level and top up if needed.
28. Lower vehicle and test drive under light load; check for noises, slipping, correct engagement, and clutch pedal operation. Re-check torques after 100–200 km.

Replacement parts checklist (recommended)
- Clutch kit (pressure plate, friction disc, recommended sprung hub type)
- Throw-out/release bearing (always replace)
- Pilot bearing/bushing (replace if worn)
- Flywheel: resurface or replace; new flywheel bolts preferred
- Rear main seal if leaking or clutch contamination present
- Clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder if weak or leaking
- Transmission input shaft seal (if disturbed or leaking)
- Bolts as required (some are torque-to-yield and one-time use)

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Re-using worn or contaminated clutch components — always replace bearing and disc; don’t clean oil off and reuse.
- Not replacing or inspecting pilot bearing and rear main seal — oil contamination kills clutch.
- Incorrect torque on pressure plate or flywheel bolts — follow factory specs to avoid warpage or bolt failure.
- Poor alignment when mating transmission — use alignment tool, support transmission properly.
- Not supporting engine — bellhousing bolts removal without support can drop/shift engine.
- Over-greasing splines or contaminating disc face — only a thin smear of specified grease on input shaft splines; keep friction surfaces clean.
- Re-using old bolts that are stretched or torque-to-yield — replace as required.
- Forgetting to bleed hydraulic clutch — results in soft pedal and incomplete disengagement.
- Not checking linkage or pilot dowel alignment — can make it impossible to fit transmission.

Notes on torque specs and exact procedures
- Torque specs and some removal sequences vary by model year/engine. Consult the Mazda BT-50 / Ford Ranger factory service manual for exact torque values (flywheel, pressure plate, bellhousing bolts, transmission mount bolts) and any model-specific steps. If you need specific torque numbers for a given year/engine, use the factory manual or OEM repair data.

Job time estimate
- Experienced technician with proper tools: 4–8 hours (depends on model, engine, 4x4 vs 2WD, and whether flywheel is replaced/resurfaced).
- DIY without experience: plan 1–2 days.

Done.
rteeqp73

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