Below is a straight, workshop-style procedure for servicing (removing, cleaning or replacing) the crankcase blow‑by / breather tube (PCV breather hose) on a Mazda BT‑50 / Ford Ranger. No fluff.

Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (6–14 mm), ratchet, extension
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers
- Hose clamp pliers or long‑nose pliers (for spring clamps) and a 7–10 mm screwdriver (for worm clamps)
- Small pick or trim tool (remove clips / O‑rings)
- Compressed air source with adjustable regulator and blowgun (max recommended 20–30 psi for cleaning)
- Parts cleaner / brake cleaner and a clean rag(s)
- Small wire brush or bottle brush
- New breather hose assembly (recommended) or new hose of correct internal/external diameter if replacing
- New hose clamps or spring clips (if original clamps are corroded)
- New PCV valve or O‑ring(s) if fitted and worn
- Gloves, safety glasses
- Catch pan / shop towel for oil drips

Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine. Hot turbo/intake and oil cause burns.
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, handbrake on.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you'll be removing electrical connectors or performing an extended job.
- Use safety glasses when using compressed air or cleaners. Use low regulated pressure (20–30 psi max) when blowing hoses.
- Plug or cap any open intake or turbo inlet before using compressed air — do NOT allow debris or solvent into the intake manifold/turbo.
- Dispose of oily rags/solvent per local rules.

General notes before starting
- Location: On these trucks the breather tube normally runs from the valve cover / PCV outlet to the intake/turbo inlet or to a catch can. Access may require removal of the air intake ducting/intercooler pipework and possibly the engine cover.
- If hose is oil‑filled, many workshops replace rather than attempt permanent cleaning. Replacing the hose and PCV valve is recommended if brittle, collapsed, cracked, or heavily carboned.
- Keep small parts (clamps, O‑rings) together and note orientation of any check valve.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
- Ensure engine is cold, battery negative disconnected if you will be removing electrical plugs.
- Remove engine cover (if fitted) by undoing fasteners or pulling up on rubber grommets.
- Remove airbox inlet duct or intercooler pipe as needed for access: loosen clamps and slide pipes off. Keep track of turbo/intercooler connections.

2) Expose the breather tube / PCV connection
- Locate the PCV / breather outlet on the valve cover and the hose routing to the intake/turbo. Disconnect any brackets or clips holding the hose to the engine.
- If the hose connects to a hard plastic elbow with an O‑ring, gently pry the retaining clip(s) and pull the hose free.

3) Remove hose
- Loosen hose clamps at both ends and remove hose from valve cover and intake/turbo inlet.
- Beware of oil inside the hose — position a rag/catch pan under the hose outlet to collect drips.

4A) If replacing: install new hose
- Compare new hose to old for length, bends and diameter.
- Fit new O‑rings / new PCV valve if applicable (light coat of engine oil on O‑rings helps seal).
- Fit hose onto valve cover and intake, push fully home, install new clamps and hand‑tighten. Do not over‑tighten worm clamps — snug is enough; spring clamps should be seated correctly.
- Refit any brackets and reconnect intake piping.

4B) If cleaning (only if hose is serviceable)
- Shake out bulk oil into a catch pan/rag. Use parts cleaner and a brush to remove heavy deposits.
- Use low‑pressure compressed air (20–30 psi) and short bursts through the hose to blow remaining oil/carbon out. Blow from the valve‑cover side toward the intake side so you push debris out of the hose, not into the engine. Cap the intake/turbo inlet and blow to the outside.
- Repeat solvent spray + brushing + blow until clean and dry. Reinspect for soft spots, cracks or collapsed sections — replace if any damage.
- Reinstall with new clamps as above.

5) Reconnect & reassemble
- Refit any removed intake pipes, intercooler hoses and engine cover. Reconnect battery negative if disconnected.
- Double‑check every hose clamp, bracket and electrical connector for correct fitment.

6) Test run
- Start engine and let idle. Check for hissing or abnormal smoke and look for oil leaks around hose connections.
- If engine runs rough or there is a vacuum leak (surging idle), immediately shut down and recheck connections — an open breather or misrouted hose causes vacuum leak.

How the blowgun/compressed air is used (details)
- Fit regulator to compressor and set to low pressure (20–30 psi). Use a short burst technique — never continuously blast at full power.
- Cap or plug the intake/turbo inlet downstream so debris goes out the hose end and not into the engine. You can blow the hose from the valve cover end OUT toward the intake end to expel oil and carbon out to atmosphere (point the end into a rag/catch can).
- Use solvent to break down oil first; compressed air speeds drying and expels loosened residue.
- Wear eye protection and do this outdoors or in a well‑ventilated area.

Replacement parts recommended
- New breather hose assembly if any cracking, soft spots, flattening, heavy oil saturation or internal restriction.
- New hose clamps or spring clips if originals are corroded.
- New PCV valve and O‑rings if fitted and not sealing well.
- Valve cover gasket only if you remove the valve cover — otherwise not required.

Common pitfalls / mistakes to avoid
- Using high pressure air — can damage hose or force debris into engine (limit to 20–30 psi).
- Blowing into the intake without capping the manifold/turbo — risk of debris entering the engine.
- Reusing brittle, flattened or internally delaminated hoses — will fail again.
- Over‑tightening worm clamps (can cut hose); under‑tightening causes leaks.
- Forgetting to reconnect vacuum/PCV hoses or misrouting — causes rough idle and faults.
- Not replacing old clamps: spring clamps and worm clamps lose effectiveness with age.
- Doing this on a hot engine — burn risk and difficulty handling soft components.

Time estimate
- Access & removal: 15–45 minutes depending on intake piping removal.
- Cleaning: 15–30 minutes (longer if heavy carbon).
- Replacement & reassembly: 15–30 minutes.
- Total typical workshop time: 45–90 minutes.

Final check
- After 10–20 minutes of driving, recheck clamps for oil seepage and ensure no check valve issues. Dispose of contaminated rags/solvent properly.

That’s the workshop procedure. Follow OEM torque specs for any bolts you remove; replace parts showing wear.
rteeqp73

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