Scope and short definition
- "Shift detent" = the spring-loaded ball/plunger + mating notch(s) that give the shifter its positive notches/positions (on the shift rail/selector shaft or selector drum). On BT‑50 / Ranger manual gearboxes the detent is usually a small hardened ball or plunger pressing into machined notches on the selector rail or drum, held by a light spring and located in the gearbox case or selector housing. Worn detents = loose, vague shifter, missed/false engagement, gear pop‑out, hard to find gears.

Symptoms that point to detent wear
- Excessive lateral/shifter play; shifter feels like it “slides” between gears rather than clicks.
- Gears jump out or pop back to neutral under load.
- Grinding or difficulty selecting adjacent gears (less detent means shift forks can be mispositioned).
- Visual evidence of scalloped/worn notches on selector rail/detent bore.

Theory — what fails and why
- Function: detent ball + spring supply a small radial force that locates the selector rail into discrete rotational/axial positions (the notches). That force stabilises shift forks/selector so synchros can engage smoothly.
- Failure modes:
- Ball/plunger wear or mushrooming reduces engagement area and seal, reducing centre force.
- Spring fatigue or break reduces preload/force.
- Selector rail notch wear (rounded or scalloped) reduces positive stop/contact.
- Bushing bore wear or excess clearance lets the rail float so detent engagement becomes ineffective.
- Misalignment from worn bushes or bent rails changes where the detent contacts.
- Consequence: insufficient locating force allows the rail to move under torque or during driver input, causing missed engagement, pop‑outs, or imprecise shifting.

Ordered workshop procedure with theory at each step (concise)

1) Safety and preparation
- Put vehicle on level support, park, handbrake, wheels chocked, disconnect battery if you will work near electrical or remove interior switches.
- Why: protects you and prevents electrical damage while removing trim or linkage.

2) Confirm diagnosis before gearbox disassembly
- Road‑test (if safe) to reproduce symptoms; observe which gears/pattern cause problem.
- Inspect external shift linkage at cab: worn bushings, loose pins, bent rods can mimic detent failure.
- Why: simple linkage faults are common and fixable without opening gearbox; detent repair only required if internal selector is the fault.

3) Remove access items and expose shift mechanism
- Remove center console / trim and any cab‑side linkage or cross‑shaft connections to reveal shifter base.
- If the detent is internal to the gearbox you will need to drop the gearbox or remove the transfer/selector housing depending on model—confirm location in factory manual.
- Why: access is needed to inspect detent components and selector rail; some models allow interior access to the top of the gearbox for detent service without full removal.

4) Inspect external linkage and shifter assembly
- Check pivot bushes, selector box, cables/rods for wear/play. Replace worn bushes or re‑secure loose fasteners.
- Theory: worn external parts allow excess movement and are often the real cause; restoring tightness can reintroduce correct geometry so internal detent functions.

5) Access and visually inspect detent components
- With selector housing/open gearbox, visually check the detent spring and ball/plunger, detent bore, and the mating notches on the selector rail/drum.
- Look for: flattened/mushroomed ball, missing spring preload, scored/rounded notches, ovalised bores, corrosion or metal debris.
- Why: visual wear confirms the mechanical cause and dictates which parts to replace.

6) Measure wear and compare to spec
- Measure spring free length and compressive feel, compare ball/plunger diameter to new spec, assess notch profile and depth, measure bush clearances on selector rails.
- Why: determines whether you need simple parts replacement (ball/spring) or repair/replacement of selector rail or housing.

7) Remove and replace detent components (ordered)
- Remove old ball/plunger and spring.
- Replace with OEM hardened ball/plunger and correct spring (specified force). If detent bore is worn, install new insert or replace selector housing as required.
- If selector rail notch is rounded beyond spec, replace selector rail (or the gear selector drum/rail assembly) — lightly machining or filing not acceptable for long term.
- Replace any worn selector forks, rail bushings, and seals as required.
- Why: replacing ball + spring restores preload and contact geometry; replacing worn notches/rails restores correct positioning and positive engagement.

8) Repair supporting components
- Replace worn bushings that allow rail lateral movement. If housing bores are worn, either sleeve/line‑bore or replace housing per workshop manual.
- Renew gearbox oil if contamination present; flush metal debris.
- Why: detent works only if selector rail is properly located and lubricated. Worn bushes make detent ineffective even if ball/spring are new. Debris accelerates wear.

9) Reassemble with correct assembly practice
- Use specified grease/lube on rails where required (not on detent balls unless manufacturer specifies—detent contact should be clean; light oil is usually enough).
- Torque bolts to factory specs; ensure selector spring orientation and retaining pins are fitted correctly.
- Why: correct reassembly ensures geometry and preload are maintained and prevents early failure.

10) Adjust linkage and switches
- Reattach external linkage, adjust neutral/gear position per factory procedure, check neutral safety and reverse lockouts.
- Why: correct external geometry ensures selector rail and gearbox positions match; misadjustment can make new detent feel wrong or allow gear faults.

11) Test and verify
- Static check: move shifter through full pattern, feel detent positions and confirm positive engagement in each gear.
- Road test under load to confirm gears don’t pop out and shift feel is restored.
- Recheck for leaks, noises, metal filings after initial run.
- Why: verifies repair restored proper locating force and that no secondary issues remain.

How each repair action fixes the fault (summary)
- Replacing weak/broken springs and worn balls restores the radial locating force — the detent can again seat in notches, producing crisp positions and preventing the rail from drifting.
- Replacing worn selector rail/notches restores the correct geometry so the ball engages full depth rather than sliding over a rounded contour.
- Replacing/rectifying worn bushings and housing bores removes excess play so the detent’s small force can actually control rail position.
- Cleaning out metal debris and renewing lubricant prevents continued accelerated wear and ensures smooth engagement of selector components.
- Correct linkage adjustment ensures the shifter and selector rail align; detent only works when everything is in correct relative position.

Common pitfalls and cautions (brief)
- Don’t reuse flattened/mushroomed balls or fatigued springs.
- Don’t “cheat” by filing notches — you need correct profiles and hardness; replacement is lower risk.
- Small detent force means if supporting bushings are worn, a new detent will still feel vague.
- Always replace with OEM or equivalent hardness parts; wrong steel/hardness will wear quickly.
- Observe safety: support gearbox properly; avoid contamination into gearbox; follow torque specs.

Expected outcomes
- Restored crisp shift notches, elimination of pop‑outs if detent/selector wear was root cause, longer service life when supporting bores/bushings are repaired and lubrication renewed.

End.
rteeqp73

2004 FORD RANGER - WHEELS - CHANGE WHEEL ON FORD RANGER 🚀😎🙌

How to read diagnostic codes on a mk1-2 Ranger / B2500 | flashing glow plug light fixed | no OBD had a lot of want for this video so here you go Ranger fans essentially its morse code every long flash is a digit separator every ...

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Scope: step-by-step workshop procedure for removing/inspecting/replacing the flywheel on a Mazda BT-50 / Ford Ranger (manual-transmission primary; notes for automatic included). Assumes intermediate-to-advanced mechanical skill, full toolset, and access to workshop equipment.

Safety first
- Work on a level surface, chock wheels, remove key, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use a vehicle lift or heavy-duty jack + jack stands rated for the vehicle — NEVER rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Support the engine with an engine support bar or an engine hoist when the transmission is dropped.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and hearing protection. Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering heavy components.
- Beware of toxic fluids and hot components; disconnect fuel lines only when cool and relieve system pressure if needed.

Tools and consumables (minimum)
- Full metric socket set (including deep sockets) and ratchets
- Breaker bar and/or impact wrench (careful with reassembly)
- Torque wrench (calibrated)
- Flywheel locking tool (specific to Ford/Ranger/BT-50 or equivalent pin/holding tool engaging ring gear)
- Clutch alignment tool (for manual clutch)
- Transmission jack / floor jack with transmission adapter
- Engine support bar or hoist
- Pilot bearing puller or slide hammer (if removing pilot bearing)
- Pry bars, screwdrivers, pliers
- Penetrating oil, brake cleaner, lint-free rags
- High-temp thread locker (if specified), anti-seize (where specified by manual)
- New flywheel or resurfacing service, new flywheel bolts (replace TTY bolts), clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing), pilot bearing, possibly rear main seal
- New starter bolts (optional), new gearbox mount hardware if required
- Sealant as specified by manual

Parts commonly replaced
- Flywheel (replace if damaged; dual-mass flywheels are usually non-serviceable)
- Flywheel bolts — always replace torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts
- Complete clutch kit: friction disc, pressure plate, release bearing
- Pilot bearing / bushing
- Rear main seal (recommended if transmission out)
- Transmission mount(s) if perished

Preliminary notes
- Identify engine/transmission variant (2.2/3.2 diesel, petrol variants, manual vs auto). Some Rangers/BT-50s use dual-mass flywheels — these cannot be resurfaced and must be replaced if worn.
- Always refer to the factory workshop manual for exact torque specifications, bolt patterns, and any angle-torque procedures. This guide gives method and cautions, not guaranteed torque numbers for every variant.

Step-by-step removal (manual transmission)
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect negative battery.
- Drain transmission fluid if required to lower mess if you’ll lose output shaft fluid.
- Raise vehicle and support on stands or use a lift. Remove center console or shifter cover if needed to access release components.

2) Remove ancillary components
- Remove underbody shields and transmission inspection covers as required.
- Remove starter motor (unbolt, label electrical connectors, move aside).
- Disconnect drive-shaft/propshaft where applicable: mark indexing, unbolt, support shaft out of the way.
- Disconnect speedometer/ABS sensors, electrical connectors from transmission, reverse light switch, and any vacuum/hose lines.

3) Support engine and transmission
- Support the engine with an engine support bar or a jack under oil pan with a block (required because crossmember may be removed).
- Place a transmission jack under the gearbox and secure.

4) Detach transmission
- Remove clutch slave cylinder or disconnect release linkage (do not let slave cylinder hang on a hose; secure it out of the way).
- Unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts in a sensible sequence; remove crossmember/transmission mount bolts as required.
- Carefully slide the transmission back on the jack until it disengages the input shaft; lower transmission and remove from vehicle. Keep it level and clear of wiring.

5) Remove clutch assembly
- With transmission removed, inspect and remove pressure plate bolts in a criss-cross sequence, a few turns at a time to avoid warping. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Note and keep orientation marks if you plan to resurface / reinstall.

6) Lock the flywheel
- Engage a dedicated flywheel locking tool in the ring gear (tool specifics: aligns with teeth and uses bolt holes to hold) or have an assistant hold a breaker bar in the ring gear slot using a heavy cloth for protection. Never jam a screwdriver into teeth as it can break and be hazardous.

7) Remove flywheel bolts
- Loosen and remove flywheel bolts in a star/cross pattern (to reduce distortion) using breaker bar/impact. Expect high torque — penetrating oil can help.
- If bolts are TTY, cut/replace them; do not reuse.

8) Remove flywheel
- Carefully pry the flywheel free (it can be heavy, typically 6–12 kg). Support it as it comes off and set it on a clean bench. Inspect ring gear teeth, clutch contact surface, and flywheel backside for oil contamination from a leaking rear main seal.

Inspection and decision
- If single‑mass flywheel: check for heat spots, cracks, scoring, runout. Minor glazing or unevenness can be resurfaced by machine shop if within thickness limits.
- If dual‑mass flywheel: replace if any looseness, noise, or wear; do not resurface.
- Inspect crankshaft flange and pilot bearing bore. Replace pilot bearing if rough or noisy.
- If rear main oil leakage discovered, replace rear main seal while transmission out.

Installation (manual transmission)
1) Clean mating surfaces
- Degrease crank flange and pressure plate face. Do not contaminate friction surfaces after cleaning.

2) Fit pilot bearing (if replaced)
- Lightly grease outer diameter where indicated and press in square/true with correct sized driver. Do not overdrive.

3) Fit flywheel
- If resurfacing, ensure thickness is within spec. Fit new flywheel bolts (replace TTY bolts). Hand-start bolts, then tighten in a star pattern to snug.
- Use torque wrench to final-torque to factory spec or torque+angle method if specified. Do not skip the angle stage if required — that’s why bolts must be new. Apply thread locker only if manual/tech data calls for it (do not use generic thread locker unless specified).
- Check flywheel runout with dial indicator; if out of spec, replace or re-machine correctly.

4) Install clutch assembly
- Use clutch alignment tool to center disc on pilot bearing.
- Fit pressure plate and torque bolts in criss-cross sequence to the specified torque.

5) Refit transmission
- Raise transmission into place using the transmission jack, carefully align input shaft to clutch splines and pilot. Do not force – adjust alignment until it slides home.
- Reinstall bellhousing bolts, crossmember, mounts. Reconnect slave cylinder/linkage, sensors, wiring, prop shaft and starter. Refill transmission fluid if drained.

6) Bleed clutch (if hydraulic)
- Bleed clutch system per procedure until firm pedal.

7) Final checks
- Torque all critical fasteners to factory spec, double-check connectors, fluid levels, road test to verify operation.

Automatic transmission notes
- The “flywheel” is a flexplate; procedure differs:
- Support torque converter when lowering transmission.
- Unbolt torque converter from flexplate through inspection holes while rotating engine.
- Remove flexplate bolts and flexplate.
- Replace flexplate if warped/damaged, inspect torque converter and rear main.
- Refit torque converter fully onto input shaft and bolt to flexplate. Torque per manual.

Tool usage specifics / tips
- Flywheel locking tool: engages ring gear to prevent crank rotation when removing bolts. Fit securely; use breaker/impact on bolts only when tool is solidly seated.
- Clutch alignment tool: slides through clutch disc hub into pilot bore to hold the disc concentric while tightening pressure plate.
- Pilot bearing puller: fits into bearing and pulls or uses a slide hammer; be gentle to avoid damaging crank bore.
- Torque wrench: use in its proper operating range (not always at the extremes), tighten in stages and pattern. If procedure calls for torque + angle, do torque to initial spec then angle the specified degrees using an angle gauge.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing torque-to-yield bolts: do not reuse TTY bolts — always replace.
- Incorrect torque / failing to use angle step: causes loosening or crank damage.
- Not replacing pilot bearing or release bearing when clutch replaced: leads to premature failure.
- Contaminating clutch/flywheel with oil/grease: always keep friction surfaces clean; if contaminated, clean with solvent or replace components.
- Not supporting the engine properly when removing transmission: can drop engine or damage mounts.
- Using a pry bar incorrectly to remove flywheel: can chip ring gear teeth — use proper pullers/bolts.
- Failing to replace dual-mass flywheel when worn: trying to resurface a DMF will fail—replace with correct DMF.
- Misalignment on reassembly: forces transmission input shaft and damages spline/pilot — use alignment tool.

Final testing
- After reassembly and fluid/bled systems topped up, start engine, check for unusual noises or leaks at idle and during engagement.
- Road test with gradual engagements; confirm clutch release, no chatter, and no vibration from flywheel/flexplate at various RPMs.

Closing notes
- Exact bolt sizes, torque values, and procedures vary by year/engine; always confirm with the OEM workshop manual or dealer. When in doubt, replace fasteners and critical wear parts (clutch kit, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts).
- If you suspect a dual-mass flywheel, cross-check part numbers — DMFs must be replaced, not resurfaced.

No further questions as requested.
rteeqp73