Summary (what fails and why)
- The clutch hydraulic system uses the master cylinder (pedal) to pressurize fluid, which pushes the slave cylinder to move the clutch release mechanism and disengage the clutch.
- A failing slave cylinder leaks or seizes: leaks ≈ loss of hydraulic pressure and sinking/soft pedal; seizure or sticking ≈ incomplete release and grinding/difficult gear engagement. Replacing the slave cylinder restores a sealed hydraulic actuator so the system can build pressure and move the release mechanism through the full travel.

Preparations and safety
- Work on a level surface, chock wheels, apply parking brake, jack and support vehicle on axle stands or use a lift.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Hydraulic fluid is corrosive to paint; protect painted surfaces and have rags ready.
- Use the correct brake/clutch fluid specified for the vehicle (DOT3 or DOT4 as per manual).
- Have the replacement part that matches your gearbox type: external slave cylinder (bellhousing-mounted) or concentric slave/throwout-bearing (CSC). Many BT‑50 / Ranger years use an external slave; newer boxes can use a concentric unit — the removal method differs (external: access from engine bay/wheel arch; concentric: often requires gearbox removal or access cover). Confirm which is fitted before starting.
- Tools: metric socket set, torque wrench, line wrench for hydraulic fittings, screwdrivers, pliers, drip tray, new copper crush washers or seals, replacement slave (and dust boot if separate), bleeder tubing and transparent bottle, vacuum or pressure bleeder (recommended), degreaser, torque specs from the service manual.

Diagnosis before replacing (theory)
- Inspect for visible fluid leak at slave cylinder, hydraulic line, or master cylinder reservoir. Fluid on bellhousing/wheel arch strongly indicates slave leak.
- Check reservoir level: fast drop with pedal soft points to a leak.
- If pedal goes to the floor and does not return, or clutch will not disengage, likely slave or line leak/air. If clutch slips (engine revs rise without speed), that’s mechanical wear, not hydraulic.
- Confirm master cylinder is not the source: if master is leaking or internal, the slave will still not pressurize. Test by capping the slave inlet and pumping pedal (careful) — but safest is visual check for reservoir and master condition.

Step‑by‑step replacement (external slave cylinder) — in order, with theory
1. Relieve system pressure and secure vehicle
- Park, chock, raise and support vehicle; remove wheel or splash shield if needed to access bellhousing. Theory: safe access and visibility to hydraulic line and slave.

2. Clean area
- Clean around slave and bleed nipple to prevent contamination entering the system when opened. Theory: dirt in hydraulic system causes seal damage and air entry.

3. Remove hydraulic line
- Place drip tray. Using a line wrench, loosen the hydraulic banjo/pipe fitting at the slave. Catch fluid. Immediately cap the open line and port with clean plugs or tape to minimize air ingress. If banjo bolt with copper crush washers, remove and discard washers. Theory: removing line isolates slave; capping prevents extra air from entering the rest of the system.

4. Remove retaining fasteners and pull out the slave
- Remove mounting bolts and withdraw the slave cylinder from the bellhousing. Inspect the pushrod, clutch fork or release arm and dust boot. Replace dust boot if torn. Theory: physically removes the faulty actuator so a new, sealed piston/rod can restore correct movement.

5. Inspect related components
- Check clutch fork pivot, fork bush, release bearing/throwout bearing and input shaft splines for wear. If there is significant mechanical wear, clutch assembly may need replacement. Theory: hydraulic repair fixes hydraulic faults; worn mechanical parts will still cause problems.

6. Prepare new slave cylinder
- If bench-bleeding is recommended by manufacturer, perform a short bench bleed: fit bleed nipple and loop a small hose to return fluid into the reservoir or pump fluid through the slave piston until no bubbles appear. Some new slaves are pre-filled; follow instructions. Fit new crush washers on banjo bolt or new o-rings as required. Theory: removing trapped air in the new cylinder reduces amount of air in the vehicle system and shortens bleeding.

7. Install new slave and hydraulic line
- Mount the new slave, torque bolts to spec (consult service manual). Refit the hydraulic line using new crush washers, torque banjo bolt to spec. Reconnect any mechanical linkages or dust boot. Theory: proper sealing and correct clamping torque prevent leaks; correct geometry ensures the piston stroke engages the release mechanism.

8. Top up master reservoir with correct fluid
- Fill to recommended level; inspect for contamination. Theory: ensures adequate fluid for bleeding and pressure building.

Bleeding the system (remove air) — ordered methods, with theory
9. Initial bleeding (gravity or assisted) — remove air from slave and line
- Method A — Vacuum/pressure bleeder (recommended): Attach bleeder to reservoir (or vacuum at slave bleeder) and draw fluid until clear no-bubble flow; pump pedal slowly if needed. Theory: vacuum/pressure keeps positive flow and prevents air re-entrainment, efficiently removing trapped air from high points.
- Method B — Pedal bleeding (helper): Have helper depress pedal to the floor and hold. Open bleed nipple to let fluid/air out, close nipple, then release pedal. Repeat until no bubbles appear and pedal feels firm. Always close nipple before helper releases pedal to prevent sucking air in. Theory: sequentially forces trapped air out via pressure pulses.
- Method C — Gravity bleeding: open bleed nipple and let fluid drip out; top up reservoir. Slow and less effective but works for small amounts of air. Theory: relies on hydrostatic head to push air out.

10. Bleeding sequence
- For single external slave typically bleed slave only; but best practice: bleed from the furthest point (slave) then work back toward master. If multiple points (dual systems), follow manual. Keep reservoir topped up. Continue until steady, bubble-free flow and pedal has firm, consistent travel. Theory: air is compressible; eliminating it returns pedal firmness and restores linear hydraulic transmission of force.

11. Check for leaks and torque
- Inspect fittings and slave for leaks under pressure. Re-torque banjo and mounting bolts to spec after initial test run if manual recommends. Theory: thermal and load cycles can alter fastener preload; checking ensures sealing under operating conditions.

Testing and final checks
12. Functional test on stand
- With engine off, press clutch pedal: it should have firm resistance and proper travel without sinking. Start engine, engage first gear with clutch depressed to confirm full disengagement. Theory: verifies hydraulic pressure converts to expected mechanical movement of release mechanism.

13. Road test
- Drive slowly and test shifting under load. Monitor pedal feel and check for reappearance of leaks. Theory: confirms repair under dynamic load; if problems persist, investigate master cylinder, air remaining, or mechanical clutch faults.

14. Clean up and dispose fluid
- Clean spilled fluid, protect painted surfaces with water/soap; dispose of used fluid per local regulations.

Concentric slave (CSC) notes — different theory and order points
- A CSC sits inside the gearbox around the input shaft and acts as both release bearing and slave. Replacement often requires gearbox removal or at least an access cover removal, and the hydraulic line plus mounting bracket are removed. Theory: replacing a CSC not only repairs leaks but also replaces an integrated bearing that can fail and cause noise or binding.
- If your vehicle has CSC: remove gearbox or use manufacturer-specified access procedures; transfer any seals or collars; fit new CSC with new seals, reassemble gearbox to engine, refill and bleed system as above. Consult factory manual for transmission removal sequence and alignment marks.

Why the repair fixes the fault — mechanical/hydraulic theory summary
- A properly sealed and free-moving slave cylinder converts hydraulic pressure from the master into linear motion at the clutch release mechanism. Leaks cause pressure loss (soft pedal, inability to disengage). Air in the line compresses so pedal travel does not proportionally move the release — bleeding removes compressible air. A seized/sticking piston cannot move fully so clutch won’t release; replacement restores friction-free piston travel inside a new seal, reestablishing full release travel. Proper installation and bleeding restore a closed, incompressible hydraulic circuit so pedal input reliably translates into release fork movement and clutch disengagement.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Reusing crush washers or damaged fittings — causes leaks.
- Allowing air into the system by leaving lines open.
- Not bench-bleeding a new cylinder when recommended.
- Not checking master cylinder condition — replacing the slave when the master is leaking will not fix problem.
- Not inspecting clutch mechanical parts — hydraulic fix won’t cure a worn clutch or seized release bearing.

Torque/specs and model specifics
- Torque values and specific procedures (gearbox removal, CSC service) are model-year dependent. Always consult the factory service manual for your BT‑50 / Ranger year for exact torques, part numbers, and any special tools.

Done.
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Mazda b 2500, Ford Ranger 2,5d damaged crankshaft pulley 3, tool for removing bolt

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