Why this repair is needed (theory, short)
- Shock absorbers damp chassis/axle movement. The mount (bolt + bushing + bracket) ties the shock to the tractor. If the mount is worn, loose, cracked or the bushing collapsed, the shock can’t control movement: you get clunks, excessive vibration, steering/brake load changes, early tire/axle wear and a harsher ride.
- Analogy: the shock is like a muscle that controls motion; the mount and bushings are the joints. If the joint is loose or worn the muscle can’t work, and metal slaps metal.

System overview — every component and what it does
- Shock absorber (strut/damper): hydraulic (oil ± gas) cylinder that resists compression/extension. Converts kinetic energy to heat.
- Upper mount bracket (welded or bolted to cab/frame): holds top of shock. Transfers load to chassis.
- Lower mount bracket (on axle/front linkage/frame): holds bottom of shock and transfers load to axle.
- Mount bolt/shaft (through shock eye): steel pin that passes through the shock eye and bushings; carries shear and clamp load.
- Bushings (rubber/urethane with inner steel sleeve): sit between shock eye and bracket to absorb small motion and prevent metal-to-metal contact. Provide controlled compliance. Common types: single-piece rubber, bonded sleeve, or split polyurethane.
- Washers/spacers: distribute load and center the bushing/sleeve on the bolt.
- Nut/lock (nyloc, castle + cotter pin, or prevailing torque nut): secures bolt.
- Retainers/plates (if present): prevent bolt movement or carry load.
- Grease fitting (if equipped): allows lubrication of a serviceable bushing.

Tools and materials you will need
- Personal protective equipment: gloves, eye protection, steel-toe boots.
- Hydraulic jack or floor jack and heavy-duty jack stands or a tractor stand. Forklift or engine hoist if lifting heavy parts of frame. Block wheels and chock.
- Socket/wrench set (metric), breaker bar, ratchet, torque wrench (to read proper torque).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar), wire brush.
- Hammer, drift/punch, pry bar.
- Bench vise or bushing press or hydraulic press and appropriate adapters. Bushing driver set is very handy.
- Grinder/rotary tool and torch (for stuck bolts or bracket cleanup) — use heat carefully.
- Replacement parts: new shock if internal failure, replacement bushings (correct size), replacement bolts/nuts (grade 8/10.9 or OEM), sleeves/spacers, washers, thread locker or anti-seize as recommended.
- Welding gear and filler rod/electrodes, plate stock for reinforcement if welding a cracked bracket (only if you are competent at structural welding).
- Service manual or manufacturer torque/spec sheet for exact torque and bushing part numbers.

Safety first (must-do)
- Park on level ground, transmission in park/neutral locked, engine off, key removed, parking brake on. Chock rear wheels.
- Support the tractor with stands rated for the weight — never rely on a jack alone. Support the component (axle/frame) so the shock is unloaded before removing bolts. If the shock is under tension/compression and you remove a bolt without support the tractor may shift suddenly.
- If cutting or heating, remove nearby hoses/wiring and keep a fire extinguisher ready.
- If welding on structural parts, understand this can change metal properties—if unsure, use a professional welder.

Step-by-step repair (general; MF35xx series specifics can vary — consult factory manual for exact locations/specs)

1. Preparation
- Identify which shock mount is bad: look for play, torn bushings, slop around bolt, clunks when bouncing the tractor, visible cracks on bracket.
- Obtain replacement bushings or shock and correct bolt sizes/grades using the parts manual or by measuring: measure bolt diameter (d), bushing outer diameter (OD), inner diameter (ID), and bushing width.

2. Support and unload the shock
- Place jack under the frame or axle so the load normally carried by the shock is supported. Raise slightly so the shock is not under load. In many tractors you support the frame or axle near the shock mounts. The goal is to take the preload off the shock eye so the bolt can be removed without a sudden drop.

3. Remove retaining hardware
- Spray penetrating oil on bolts and nuts and let soak.
- Remove cotter pin or nut retainer if present. Use breaker bar if necessary. Use heat on the nut (not the bolt) to break corrosion if stuck, but avoid heating near seals/wiring.
- If access is tight, remove nearby components (wheel, grille, accessory brackets) as needed.

4. Remove mount bolt and shock
- With the shock unloaded, remove the mount bolt with appropriate socket. Use a drift/punch if the bolt is stuck; tap it out from the opposite side.
- Remove shock. Note orientation and any washers/spacers. Keep parts organized for reassembly.

5. Inspect components
- Shock: check for oil leakage, bent body, or internal damage. If shock leaks or feels loose when compressed by hand, replace the shock.
- Bushings: check rubber for cracks, flat spots, or separation; urethane may crumble. If the ID is worn so the bolt moves inside the bushing, replace.
- Brackets: inspect welds and plates for cracks, elongation of holes (ovalization), or corrosion. If holes are elongated, fit is loose — repair required.
- Bolt: inspect for shear or thread damage; replace rather than reuse if damaged.

6. Remove old bushing (pressing/cutting)
- If bushing is pressed: use hydraulic press or vise with appropriate driver to press the old bushing out of the shock eye or bracket. Support the bracket so force presses bushing out straight.
- If welded-in sleeve or bonded rubber: you may need to cut it out with a grinder or use a screw extractor method. Take care not to enlarge or damage the bracket bore.
- Clean inside of bore with wire brush and solvent. Measure final bore diameter.

7. Installing new bushing/sleeve
- If replacement bushings are supplied with a thin-walled steel sleeve, ensure the sleeve fits the bolt ID and bush OD. Grease recommended by manufacturer may be applied to rubber bushings if specified (some bushings are dry and should not be greased). Urethane bushings often use a thin film of grease.
- Press the new bushing straight in. If a sleeve is used, insert sleeve into bushing before pressing if that’s the design. Make sure bushing flange seats properly and washers/spacers go back in the original order.
- If using generic bushings, match the original geometry (width and shoulder placement) exactly.

8. Bracket repair (if cracked or elongated)
- Small cracks in bracket welds: grind out painted area and weld using proper welding procedure (clean metal, preheat if needed, use weld rod appropriate for bracket steel). After welding, grind smooth and paint to prevent corrosion. Reinforce with a gusset plate if the bracket failed due to overload. Plate thickness should be comparable to original steel and welded around the perimeter.
- Ovalized hole: options — install a repair sleeve/liner pressed into the hole, weld and re-drill to original size, or replace the entire bracket if available. Sleeves must be a tight interference fit and correctly hardened.
- Note: these are structural repairs. If you are not experienced in structural welding, get a qualified welder or a dealer to do the repair—incorrect welding can weaken the part.

9. Reassembly
- Place shock back in position. Insert mount bolt through bracket, bushing, and shock eye. Ensure washers/spacers are installed exactly as before.
- If manufacturer recommends thread locker on the nut, use the specified type; otherwise use anti-seize/clean threads as appropriate. Replace cotter pins where required.
- Tighten nut hand-tight first, then torque to factory specification. IMPORTANT: consult the Massey Ferguson service manual for exact bolt torque values for your model/year and bolt size. If manual is unavailable, as a general reference: M16 bolts commonly torque to ~150–220 Nm, M18 ~200–300 Nm, M20 ~300–420 Nm — but DO NOT rely on these as a substitute for the manual. Over- or under-torquing can fail the joint.

10. Final checks and testing
- Lower the jack so the shock carries normal load and torque the nuts to final spec. Re-check torque after initial use (after a few hours of operation) — dynamic loading can seat components.
- Test drive at low speed over known bumps — listen for clunks and recheck for any movement or new looseness. Visual check for leaks or freshly cracked welds after test.

What can go wrong (list)
- Bolt shears or threads round off if corroded or improperly torqued.
- Wrong bushings or mis-installed sleeves lead to side load and early failure.
- Welding without proper technique can create brittle zones and cause premature failure.
- Not supporting the load before removing bolts can allow sudden movement and injury.
- Reusing damaged bolts or using wrong-grade hardware reduces safety margin.
- Over-torquing crushes rubber bushings; under-torquing allows movement and fatigue.
- Incorrect grease or over-greasing urethane can attract dirt and accelerate wear.

Maintenance and prevention
- Periodically inspect mounts after heavy field work or seasonal changes.
- Keep bushings greased if serviceable type; otherwise replace on signs of cracking or play.
- Replace bolts when corroded or if threads are damaged; use correct grade and length.
- Tighten to spec and torque-check after first few operating hours post-repair.

Final practical tips
- Have the service manual or parts diagram for MF3505/MF3525/MF3545 handy for part numbers and torque specs.
- Use OEM or quality aftermarket bushings sized to the original to preserve geometry.
- If the shock itself leaks or is loose inside, replace it rather than only replacing mount hardware.
- Keep track of washer/spacer order and bushing orientation — a quick photo before disassembly helps.

This gives you the complete theory, component descriptions, tools, safety, stepwise repair, welding/repair options, testing and common failure causes. Follow the factory manual for exact torque and part numbers; if in doubt about structural welding, use a qualified shop.
rteeqp73

Massey Ferguson Instructional Sales Video This is a video my grandfather had with his 4WD Massey Ferguson 3545, probably my favorite tractor he had. We used in the ...

Massey Ferguson Instructional Sales Video This is a video my grandfather had with his 4WD Massey Ferguson 3545, probably my favorite tractor he had. We used in the ...

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