- Safety first (short and direct)
- Wear eye protection, gloves, steel-toe boots.
- Work on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative.
- Use quality jack stands and a transmission jack or equivalent support for the gearbox before removing any bolts; do not rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- If you are unsure about lifting or supporting heavy loads, get help or a shop — this job involves heavy components and can kill or maim if the tractor shifts.

- Overview of what you’re doing (one-line)
- You will separate the gearbox from the engine, remove the clutch pressure plate and disc, inspect/replace wear parts, then reassemble with correct alignment and torque.

- Typical reasons parts must be replaced (what to look for)
- Clutch disc: replace if friction material is thin, glazed, contaminated with oil, or warped — causes slipping or chatter.
- Pressure plate: replace if springs are weak, broken, or surface is badly scored/warped — causes poor clamp force or noise.
- Release (throwout) bearing: replace if noisy, rough, or worn — always replace when clutch apart.
- Pilot/bush/spigot bearing (if fitted): replace if noisy or scored — supports input shaft; failure causes alignment/noise problems.
- Flywheel: resurface if glazed, hot-spotted, scored; replace if cracking or excessive runout.
- Seals (rear crank seal, gearbox input seal): replace if leaking to prevent oil contaminating new clutch.
- Misc: replace worn dowel pins, bolts that are stretched/damaged, and any rubber/insulation parts that are degraded.

- Required tools (detailed description + how to use each)
- Socket set (metric & imperial mix up to 32 mm): ratchet, extensions, universal joint.
- Use to remove nuts and bolts. Pick the correct size socket, apply breaker-bar for stuck bolts, keep sockets straight to avoid rounding heads.
- Combination spanner set: open-end and box-end wrenches same sizes as sockets.
- Use where a socket won’t fit or to hold the nut while turning the opposite side.
- Breaker bar (long handle): high leverage for seized fasteners.
- Use with care—avoid sudden shock; apply steady force to break loose bolts.
- Torque wrench (click type, suitable range 10–250 Nm or higher): for final tightening to spec.
- Set required torque, tighten until it clicks; tighten bolts in the specified sequence (pressure plate in a star pattern).
- Screwdrivers (flat & Phillips) and small picks: for clips and small covers.
- Use properly sized tips to avoid stripping heads.
- Pry bars / large flat screwdriver: to help separate gearbox from engine after bolts removed.
- Insert gently at seam, pry evenly—don’t lever against soft castings; use wood blocks to protect surfaces.
- Transmission jack or heavy floor jack with good timber cradle and strap: to support and lower gearbox safely.
- Center gearbox on cradle, strap it, lower slowly; get a helper for alignment if no shop jack.
- Clutch alignment tool (plastic or steel, correct diameter or slotted for spline): essential.
- Insert through clutch disc into pilot bore to center disc while tightening pressure plate bolts so the gearbox input shaft will slide in easily.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer (if needed for pilot bearing or release bearing removal): for removing stubborn bearings.
- Use correct size puller to avoid damage; pull straight and evenly.
- Impact driver (optional but helpful): to remove rusted screws/bolts quickly.
- Use with care—impact can break bolts; support parts when using.
- Hammer & soft mallet (brass or rubber): tapping components free without damaging faces.
- Use soft mallet on cast faces; use steel hammer only on hardened punches/drifts.
- Drift punches and pin punches: for removing dowel pins or retaining pins.
- Tap pins out straight, support part to prevent bending.
- Wire brush, brake cleaner or degreaser, rags: to clean mating surfaces.
- Clean oil/grime thoroughly before assembly.
- Seal puller / gasket scraper: to remove old seals and sealant without scoring.
- Remove old sealant cleanly; avoid gouging sealing surfaces.
- Dial indicator (optional): to check flywheel runout if suspect.
- Mount to engine and rotate crank to measure wobble; replace/resurface if runout exceeds spec.
- Calipers or micrometer (optional): to measure clutch disc thickness if you want to check wear.
- Compare to new part spec; replace if below minimum.

- Extra/optional tools and why they are helpful
- Service manual or workshop manual for MF135/150/165: gives bolt torque values, removal order, drawings. Required if you want correct torque and sequence.
- Transmission jack or engine hoist: makes gearbox removal safe and controllable. Highly recommended.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal but use with care.
- Flywheel turning bar / crank pulley holding tool: to lock crank when removing/torquing flywheel/pressure plate bolts.

- Preparatory steps (in order, short bullets)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative.
- Remove any PTO implements and front weights.
- Drain gearbox oil into container and dispose appropriately (you’ll lower gearbox).
- Remove top covers, gear levers, linkage rods, clutch linkage and remove anything obstructing gearbox removal (PTO shaft, drive shafts, PTO cover).
- Support gearbox with transmission jack or floor jack and timber before removing bellhousing bolts.

- Main removal steps (clear, concise sequence in bullets)
- Remove rear wheels or open enough working space to access gearbox fasteners if clearance is an issue.
- Disconnect control linkages: clutch rod, gearshift linkages, handbrake cables, PTO rods; label or note locations.
- Remove driveshaft or propshaft (if applicable) and universal joint bolts; secure shaft out of the way.
- Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts and any brackets securing the gearbox. Keep track of bolt lengths and locations.
- Support gearbox with jack, remove remaining bolts, gently pry gearbox away from engine using pry bars and wooden blocks to protect castings. Lower gearbox slowly on the jack.
- With gearbox out, remove pressure plate retaining bolts slowly and evenly (loosen in a star pattern, a few turns at a time) to avoid warping the pressure plate. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Inspect flywheel face for hot spots, scoring, or wear. Check crankshaft pilot bore for damage. Remove pilot bearing if required.

- Inspection and replacement decisions (what to measure/inspect)
- Clutch disc: measure thickness; friction material should be even and not glazed. Replace if worn, or if oil soaked.
- Pressure plate: look for cracks, broken springs, or scored/fractured friction surface. Replace if damaged or weak.
- Release bearing: spin by hand—should be smooth; replace if rough/noisy. Always replace with clutch job.
- Flywheel: if heat discolouration, deep scoring, or cracking, resurface or replace. Resurfacing possible if not beyond service limit; shop will confirm.
- Rear crank seal and gearbox input seal: replace if leaking or removed during disassembly to prevent contamination of new clutch.
- Replace all clutch cover bolts if damaged; use thread locker where specified by manual.

- Reassembly tips (critical actions)
- Clean mating surfaces: remove old gasket, oil and debris. Use solvent, make sure dry.
- Fit new pilot bearing (if replaced) using proper drift and even seating.
- Use clutch alignment tool through the disc into pilot bore to center the disc on the flywheel.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts finger-tight, then torque in a star or criss-cross pattern in stages to the manufacturer’s torque spec (use service manual value).
- Remove alignment tool and check that gearbox input shaft slides in smoothly without forcing. If it binds, realign clutch.
- Replace any seals you removed, clean and reinstall gearbox, supporting it with the jack and aligning dowels.
- Reinstall all linkages and check clutch pedal free play and adjustment per manual. Fill gearbox with the correct oil to the correct level.
- Test operation before full load: run tractor, check for slipping, chatter, leaks, smooth gear engagement.

- Typical replacement parts list (what to order)
- Clutch friction disc (correct spline count and diameter for MF135/150/165).
- Pressure plate (matching disc, complete clutch cover assembly).
- Release (throwout) bearing.
- Pilot bearing/bush (if fitted).
- Rear main crank oil seal and gearbox input seal (recommended).
- Dowel pins / bolts (if worn or damaged) and gasket or sealant for bellhousing.
- Flywheel (only if cracked or beyond resurfacing limits) or flywheel resurfacing service.
- Clutch fork or pivot ball (if worn or damaged).
- Clutch alignment tool (you can buy inexpensive plastic ones specific to tractor spline or use a new disc’s hub on a mandrel if you know how).

- Signs you must replace parts (short diagnostic cues)
- Slipping under load: clutch disc worn or contaminated.
- Noise when depressing pedal: release bearing.
- Clutch engagement is sudden or uneven: warped pressure plate or glazed disc.
- Oil on friction plate: leaking rear main seal or gearbox input seal—replace seals and disc.
- Excessive effort or sticking: linkage, worn pivot, or binding release mechanism—inspect and replace worn parts.

- Torque and alignment cautions
- Always torque pressure plate bolts to manufacturer spec and in star pattern. Do not guess torque—use a torque wrench.
- Use a clutch alignment tool for accurate centering—failure to align will prevent gearbox input shaft from engaging and can damage splines.

- Final checks after reassembly
- Check clutch pedal travel and free play; adjust to spec.
- Start tractor and test clutch engagement in neutral before driving.
- Drive slowly and test under light load; recheck bolts and oil level after first few hours of operation.

- Time and help note (practical)
- Expect a full-day job for a competent mechanically-inclined person; allow 1–2 days as a beginner. Have an assistant for heavy lifting and alignment.

- Last word (brief)
- Follow the MF service manual for torque values and specific drawings; replace clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing as a set. If any step feels beyond your toolset or confidence, have a professional finish the job.

(End — no questions.)
rteeqp73

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1) Quick theory — how the MF clutch works (short)
- Components: flywheel, driven friction disc (splined to gearbox input), pressure plate/cover with diaphragm springs (or fingers), release (throw-out) bearing, release fingers/arm on gearbox, pedal and linkage/rod/clevis.
- Normal positions: with pedal up the release bearing is clear of the fingers and the diaphragm spring clamps the friction disc to the flywheel, transmitting torque. Pedal down pushes the bearing against the fingers, lever action relaxes the diaphragm spring and releases clamping force so the disc can slip relative to the flywheel.
- What “adjustment” changes: the resting clearance (free play) between pedal/linkage and the release fingers. This determines how far the bearing moves for a given pedal travel so you restore correct clamping and correct release travel despite wear.
- Fault types and causes:
- “Hard to select gears / clutch doesn’t disengage” = too much free play / insufficient bearing travel so diaphragm not fully unloaded.
- “Clutch slips under load / engine revs rise without tractive effort” or burning smell = too little free play (bearing preloads fingers or pressure plate worn) or worn friction facings/reduced clamp force.
- Heavy pedal/drag can also mean linkage friction, weak return spring, or contamination.

2) Preparations (safety and checks)
- Park on level ground, handbrake on, wheels chocked. Shut engine for mechanical measurement; for some checks you will run engine briefly — keep bystanders clear.
- Tools: spanners for locknuts, screwdriver, ruler or vernier, small marker, penetrating oil. Identify the clutch adjuster(s): usually an adjustable rod/clevis at the top of the gearbox or at the pedal clevis with a locknut on these MF models.

3) Measure baseline and diagnose (what to measure and why)
- Measure pedal free play: with engine off, press the top of the pedal lightly forward until you feel the first resistance/change (this is the movement before the clutch begins to be lifted off its engaged position). Measure this free movement at the pedal pad (or measure movement at the release arm/clevis if easier). Note value. Typical target range for many tractors is about 15–25 mm (≈0.6–1.0 in) of pedal travel — consult the manual if available.
- Visual check: look at release fork/arm movement through inspection hole while an assistant slowly depresses pedal (engine off). There should be a small gap at rest between release bearing and fingers. If bearing contacts fingers at rest, free play is too small. If bearing barely reaches fingers at full pedal travel, free play too large.

Why: This tells you whether the clutch is preloaded (too little play) or undertraveling (too much play). Adjustment will change this clearance.

4) Adjustment procedure — ordered steps
- Step A: Locate adjuster(s). On MF135/150/165 there is an adjustable rod/clevis near the pedal box or at the top of the gearbox with a locknut. Identify the jam/locknut that secures the rod.
- Step B: Loosen the locknut(s) so the adjuster can turn.
- Step C: Set a starting point: mark current position with paint/marker so you can revert.
- Step D: Adjust for target free play:
- If pedal free play is too large (clutch not fully disengaging → hard to change gear): turn the adjuster to shorten the rod/clevis length (reduce free play) so the pedal moves the release bearing further for a given pedal travel. Do small increments, re-tighten locknut, re-measure pedal free play.
- If pedal free play is too small (bearing preloaded → slipping/drag): lengthen the rod/clevis (increase free play) so the bearing is clear of fingers at rest.
- Step E: Tighten locknut(s) securely and re-check measurement after tightening (tightening can move the adjuster slightly).
- Step F: Functional checks: with engine running in neutral, slowly depress and release the pedal; note bite point and smoothness. With engine at idle and brake on, put transmission in 1st gear and slowly release the clutch — if clutch slips you’ll hear/feel revs rise. If gears grind when shifting, free play is still too large. Adjust again in small steps until behaviour is correct.

Why each step fixes the fault:
- Shortening the rod (reducing free play) makes the release bearing move sooner/ farther when you press the pedal so the diaphragm is fully unloaded and the clutch fully disengages — cures incomplete disengagement and hard gear shifts.
- Lengthening the rod (increasing free play) removes preload on the bearing/fingers so the diaphragm can clamp fully at rest — cures slipping caused by bearing contact/worn preload.
- Small incremental adjustment is required because you are changing the geometry and preload of the diaphragm-finger-bearing assembly; too much change causes the opposite fault or extra wear.

5) Confirming limits and when to overhaul
- Adjustment only compensates for a limited amount of disc/thrust bearing wear. If you’ve reached the maximum adjustable length/shortening and the clutch still slips or does not disengage, the clutch assembly (friction disc, pressure plate, flywheel surface, or release bearing) likely needs overhaul/replacement.
- Signs that adjustment won’t fix: heavy clutch smoke under light load, very high engine RPM without bite even at minimum allowed free play, visible damage or oil contamination on disc.

6) Quick checklist for common symptoms and corrective adjustment
- Hard to select gear / clutch not fully disengaging → reduce free play (shorten rod) until release is full.
- Clutch slips under load / burning smell, high idle while pulling → increase free play slightly (lengthen rod) if bearing is preloaded; if slipping persists after correct free play, clutch wear/contamination is the cause → replace disc/pressure plate.
- Pedal feels spongy/heavy → check linkage lubrication/return spring and cable condition before major adjustment.

7) Final functional test (ordered)
- With final adjustment tight, test: engine running, engage gear, slowly release clutch to find bite point, drive at low speed and shift through gears to ensure smooth disengage/engage, re-check for noise/overheating/smell. Re-inspect adjuster locknuts after road test.

Done.
rteeqp73