1) Preparation
- What: Obtain workshop manual, correct replacement input shaft (and matching bearings, seals, circlips, shims, gaskets), tools (hoist/jack, press, pullers, dial gauge, torque wrench), clean workspace, drain gearbox oil, disconnect battery.
- Theory: Correct parts, tools and documentation are required to restore original clearances and preloads; cleanliness prevents contamination that causes rapid wear.

2) Confirm diagnosis before disassembly
- What: Verify symptoms (loud whining from gearbox, excessive axial/radial play on input shaft, metal particles in oil, clutch slipping or jumping gears). Inspect clutch spline play and pilot bearing if accessible.
- Theory: These symptoms indicate input-shaft or input-bearing failure (worn splines, scored journals, bearing race wear). Confirming prevents unnecessary gearbox removal if problem is elsewhere.

3) Remove tractor items to access and free the gearbox
- What: Support tractor, remove hood/guards, disconnect linkages, PTO/drive shafts, speedometer cable, hydraulic lines as needed. Remove clutch housing/cover and bellhousing bolts so gearbox can separate from engine. Support gearbox with hoist.
- Theory: The input shaft sits inside the gearbox and is aligned to the engine crank via the bellhousing and pilot bearing. You must separate assemblies without bending or loading shafts to avoid further damage.

4) Separate gearbox from engine and remove gearbox from tractor
- What: Unbolt gearbox from engine, lower gearbox with hoist. Keep bellhousing/clutch components together or clearly tag orientation.
- Theory: Removing the gearbox intact allows controlled disassembly on bench; keeping component orientation preserves original geometry and makes reassembly accurate.

5) Disassemble gearbox to expose input shaft
- What: Remove gearbox covers, selector forks as needed, countershaft/layshaft components blocking removal, and any retaining plates, circlips, or nut/lock arrangements that hold the input shaft. Keep parts in order and mark orientations/shims.
- Theory: The input shaft is integrated with gears and bearings; removing it requires freeing all connected gears and bearings. Correct reassembly order and shim locations ensure correct mesh and endplay.

6) Extract input shaft assembly
- What: Use appropriate pullers/press to remove bearings and withdraw the input shaft assembly from the case. Inspect for stuck parts and remove gently to avoid damaging bores.
- Theory: Bearings and gears transfer loads; removing them lets you see actual wear. Damage to journals/splines or bearing races requires replacing the shaft and often the bearings and races too.

7) Inspect and measure components
- What: Check shaft splines for wear, journals for scoring, bearing inner/outer races for pitting, housing bores for wear, gearbox oil for metal flakes. Measure shaft runout, journal diameters, bearing bores and compare to manual tolerances.
- Theory: Wear patterns tell the root cause: worn splines = clutch misalignment/insufficient lubrication or fretting; scored journals = contaminated oil or bearing failure; bearing pitting = overload or inadequate lubrication. Measurements determine whether only bearings/seals or the shaft itself must be replaced.

8) Replace input shaft and associated wear items
- What: Install new (or reconditioned) input shaft. Fit new bearings and seals—press bearings to proper seat and install new circlips/shims. Replace pilot/pivot bearings and clutch spline components as required. Set bearing preload and axial endplay per manual (use dial gauge or specified shim stack).
- Theory: A new shaft restores correct spline geometry and journals; new bearings restore radial support and preload, eliminating play and restoring proper gear alignment. Replacing seals prevents oil ingress/egress that caused contamination.

9) Reassemble gearbox with correct clearances
- What: Refit gears, selector forks, synchronizers (if fitted) and covers. Install any shims to set correct gear mesh and bearing preload. Use specified lubricants and torque fasteners to manual values. Replace all gaskets.
- Theory: Correct mesh and preload prevent uneven load on bearings and gears which was a likely cause of the original failure. Torque and sealing prevent leaks that cause lubrication failure.

10) Reinstall gearbox and ancillary parts; align clutch
- What: Mate gearbox to engine ensuring input shaft engages pilot bearing and clutch spline smoothly. Replace or inspect clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing; adjust clutch freeplay. Reconnect linkages, driveshafts, speedo, hydraulics; refill oil.
- Theory: Misalignment at reassembly will rapidly damage the new input shaft/bearings; replacing clutch wear items prevents reintroducing spline wear and protects the new shaft.

11) Test run and break‑in
- What: Start engine at idle, check for leaks and abnormal noises. Cycle gears, then perform low-load road test, recheck fasteners and oil level after short run. Inspect oil for debris after initial hours.
- Theory: Break-in seating removes minor asperities and reveals assembly errors early. Early inspection ensures no recurrence and confirms the repair fixed the mechanical cause.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Worn/scored input shaft, damaged splines or failed bearings cause play, noise, gear engagement problems and metal in the gearbox oil. Replacing the input shaft removes the damaged contact surfaces; replacing bearings and seals restores correct radial support, preload and lubrication sealing. Proper reassembly and setting of shims/preload returns correct gear mesh and alignment so torque transmits cleanly without vibration, noise or accelerated wear — eliminating the original symptoms.

Safety/notes (brief)
- Use hoist and proper lifting gear; wear eye protection; dispose of oil/contaminants properly. Follow torque and clearance specs from the MF workshop manual for these models.
rteeqp73

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Removing the radiator from a Massey Ferguson 265 tractor Time to take out the old leaky radiator ready for the new one. Visit my YouTube channel to see further videos of life on our farm ...

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