Goal: replace a bonnet/hood gas strut (the common “strut” on MF255/265/270/275/290 tractors). Below is a concise, ordered procedure with the underlying theory and why the repair fixes the fault.

Tools & materials
- Replacement gas strut that matches original length, stroke and end‑fittings (measure before removal).
- Flat screwdriver or small punch, pliers.
- Support prop (wooden block, shop jack with pad, or a second person).
- Gloves, eye protection.
- Rag for wiping oil/grease.

Theory — how the strut works
- A gas strut is a sealed cylinder containing pressurized gas (often nitrogen) and a piston/rod. The gas pressure provides an almost constant force that holds the hood open and controls opening/closing speed.
- The piston and seals keep gas in and allow smooth extension/retraction. End fittings (ball sockets, brackets) transfer loads and allow pivoting.
- Failure modes: gas leaks (loss of pressure), seal wear or rod scoring (binding, slow movement), bent body or worn ball sockets (play, pop-off), or broken retaining clips. When pressure is lost the hood will not stay open or will slam.

Preparation & measurement (do this before removing)
1. Note and photograph orientation and which end attaches to hood vs body. Theory: correct orientation and end fittings are required so replacement reproduces the leverage and sealing behavior of the original assembly.
2. Measure extended length (center of end fitting to center of end fitting) and stroke length if possible, and note end‑fitting type (ball/socket, eyelet, threaded). Theory: correct length and stroke ensure the hood opens to the same angle and the strut has the required mechanical advantage; correct fittings fit the existing studs.

Safety first
3. Securely prop the hood open before removing the strut. Use a rigid prop or second person. Never rely on a failing strut to hold the hood. Theory: a failed strut gives no reliable restraint; removing the last remaining support can cause the hood to fall and injure you or damage components.

Removal (in order)
4. Locate the retaining clip or circlip at each end of the strut where it snaps onto a ball stud. Theory: most struts use a snap‑on socket retained by a small metal clip; removing the clip releases the socket.
5. Support the hood so the strut is not load bearing. Using a flat screwdriver or small punch, pry or push out the retaining clip (or spread open the socket) and slide the socket off the ball stud. Do the same at the other end. If the socket is stubborn, push the hood slightly toward the closed position (but keep it safely supported) to relieve tension. Theory: relieving preload makes it possible to separate the socket without sudden movement; the snap fit holds the socket on the ball stud under load.
6. Remove the old strut and inspect ball studs and brackets for wear, corrosion or deformation. Clean studs and brackets. Theory: worn studs or brackets cause play and can wear new sockets prematurely; contamination can damage seals if it contacts the rod.

Installation (in order)
7. Compare the new strut to the old: verify extended length, stroke, rod orientation, and end fittings match. Theory: mismatched geometry alters hood travel and holding force; installing it reversed can accelerate seal wear.
8. If the new strut requires assembly of clips, fit them on the socket before fitting to the ball stud (so you don’t fight them while under tension).
9. With the hood still supported, align and push the socket onto the ball stud until it snaps over and seats; ensure the retaining clip is fully engaged. Install the lower end similarly. If necessary, slightly shift hood position to take load off the strut while engaging the socket. Theory: the snap‑on socket should seat fully on the ball; seated sockets transfer loads through the sphere and allow pivoting.
10. Confirm both clips are secure and that the strut pivots freely without binding through the hood travel range. Theory: free pivoting avoids side loads that would damage the seal or rod; secure clips keep the socket from popping off under motion.

Final checks and test
11. Carefully lower and raise the hood through its full travel a few times to check damping, holding force and that there is no rubbing or binding. Test that the hood stays open at its normal rest position without assistance. Theory: repeated cycles seat the new seals and confirm correct force; if the hood slams or sags, the strut may be under‑spec’d or installed incorrectly.
12. Inspect for leaks around the rod and for unusual noises. Tighten or replace worn mounting hardware if needed.

Why replacing fixes the fault (brief)
- Restores gas pressure: a new strut has correct internal gas charge so it provides the holding force the old one lost from leakage.
- New seals and a smooth rod remove binding and slow, inconsistent motion caused by worn seals or scoring.
- New sockets and clips ensure secure, pivoting attachment replacing worn/wobbly mountings that caused play or popped connections.
- Correct length/stroke restores hood geometry so the hood rests and travels as designed.

Warnings and best practices
- Do not attempt to open a gas strut; contents are under pressure.
- Do not apply grease to the strut shaft (can attract dirt and damage seals).
- Match the replacement’s force and geometry to the original. If uncertain, get the OEM part or a stated equivalent.
- Replace both struts at once if two operate together and one is significantly weaker.

Time estimate: 15–30 minutes per strut with basic tools and a prop.

This sequence keeps you safe, ensures you get the correct replacement, and explains how restoring the sealed gas charge and hardware repair corrects the symptom (hood won’t stay up or moves poorly).
rteeqp73

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