Quick orientation first — identify which braking system your MF255 / MF265 / MF270 / MF275 / MF290 actually has before you begin. Some tractors of this era use “wet” brakes (oil-immersed, part of the transmission/hydraulic system) and others use a separate hydraulic brake system that takes automotive DOT fluid. Using the wrong fluid will ruin seals and brakes. Always confirm with the tractor’s decal/owner’s manual or the reservoir cap marking.

What you’re doing and why it matters (theory, in plain language)
- Brakes transmit your foot force to the friction surfaces using incompressible fluid (or in wet brakes, hydraulic oil). Think of the fluid as a solid link in a bicycle brake cable — if it’s contaminated or has air in it the link becomes stretchy or clogged and braking is reduced or inconsistent.
- Brake/fluid systems:
- “DOT-type” hydraulic brakes: master cylinder in its own reservoir pushes DOT brake fluid through lines to wheel cylinders/calipers. Fluid must be clean and air-free. DOT fluid absorbs water (hygroscopic); water lowers boiling point and causes corrosion and spongy pedal.
- “Wet” (oil-immersed) tractor brakes: discs/drums are inside the transmission/hydraulic oil bath and use the tractor’s hydraulic/transmission oil. These brakes rely on oil condition and level in the combined hydraulic/transmission reservoir rather than a separate DOT reservoir.
- Why flush: remove water, dissolved contaminants, oxidized fluid, and solids that reduce braking efficiency and corrode components. Fresh fluid prevents boil, seal damage and restores predictable pedal feel.

Main components (what each one is, how it works)
- Master cylinder (DOT systems): a piston(s) inside a cylinder driven by pedal; pushes fluid from the reservoir into the lines. Has a small reservoir with a cap and sometimes a plastic level sensor.
- Reservoir (DOT): holds brake fluid; usually plastic with level markings and a rubber diaphragm.
- Brake lines/hoses: carry fluid to wheel cylinders or calipers. Steel lines are rigid; rubber hoses are flexible. Leaks/corrosion here cause pressure loss.
- Wheel cylinder / brake caliper (DOT): converts fluid pressure into mechanical force to press shoes/pads.
- Bleeder screw/valve: small screw on each wheel cylinder/caliper to let fluid and air out during bleeding. Often a nipple for a tube.
- Proportioning/pressure-limiting valves (if fitted): balance hydraulic pressure front/rear or limit pressure to avoid lockups. Can trap air if faulty.
- Reservoir/strainer (wet brakes): combined hydraulic/transmission oil reservoir, often has a screen/strainer. The same oil lubricates transmission, hydraulics and baths the brake discs.
- Final drive/axle drain and fill plugs (wet brakes): points where you can drain contaminated oil from gearboxes/hubs.
- Filters/return lines (hydraulic system): if fitted, should be changed when flushing hydraulic fluid.
- Pedal assembly and return spring: mechanical linkage that actuates the master cylinder or internal brake valve in a wet system.

Safety first (must-dos)
- Work on level ground, chock wheels, block areas that could move. Engage parking brake if safe.
- Wear gloves, safety glasses. Brake fluid and hydraulic oils irritate skin and damage painted surfaces.
- Don’t let spilled fluid sit on painted surfaces — it destroys paint. Wipe immediately with solvent recommended.
- Never mix DOT hydraulic fluid with tractor/hydraulic oil. If you are unsure which system you have, stop and confirm before adding any fluid.
- Dispose of old fluid/oil at a proper recycling facility.

How to identify which system your tractor has (quick)
- Look at reservoir(s):
- Small plastic reservoir with “DOT” or “brake” marking = DOT-type system.
- Big metal/transmission-style reservoir or single fill labeled “HYD” or “TRANSMISSION” = wet brakes / shared oil.
- Check manual/model sticker, or follow the brake lines to see if they go into the transmission case (wet) or to wheel cylinders (DOT).

If your tractor uses DOT-type hydraulic brake fluid — step-by-step flush (complete)
Tools & materials:
- Correct DOT fluid per manual (DOT 3 or DOT 4). Use only what manual specifies.
- Wrenches for bleeder nipples (usually small open-end), clear plastic tubing, clear catch bottle, shop rags, funnel, brake bleeder hand pump or vacuum bleeder (optional), turkey baster or siphon, jack and stands (if needed), gloves, eye protection.

Procedure:
1. Park level, chock wheels, shut off engine. Clean around master cylinder cap so dirt does not enter.
2. Remove cap, top up with fresh DOT fluid to recommended level. Keep cap off only as long as needed.
3. Locate bleeder nipples at each wheel cylinder/caliper. Attach clear tube and route to catch bottle with a little fluid in it to keep air out.
4. Determine bleed order: start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and end with the closest. Typical order: right rear, left rear, right front, left front — exact order depends on plumbing.
5. Have an assistant press the brake pedal slowly 3–4 times and hold down, or use a vacuum/pressure bleeder. If using a helper:
- With pedal held down, open bleeder ~1/4 turn to let fluid and bubbles out. Close bleeder BEFORE the helper releases pedal. Repeat until fluid from the tube is clear with no bubbles.
- Top up reservoir regularly; never let it run dry.
6. Repeat per wheel in the correct order until all are clear and pedal is firm.
7. After final bleed, check pedal feel: firm, not spongy. If spongy, repeat bleeding or bench-bleed master cylinder (see bench-bleed note).
8. Tighten bleeders to proper snugness (don’t round them off). Clean any spilled fluid. Replace cap, clean surfaces.
9. Road test at low speed in a safe area to confirm braking.

Bench-bleeding master cylinder (if you removed or replaced it)
- Clamp the cylinder in a vise with ports pointing up, install short tubes from outlet ports back into the reservoir so fluid circulates.
- Slowly push the piston with a suitable tool until no bubbles come out, then install in tractor. This ensures no air is trapped in the master cylinder itself.

If your tractor uses wet oil-immersed (“wet brakes”) system — step-by-step flush (complete)
Tools & materials:
- Correct tractor hydraulic/transmission oil (consult manual for grade — typical is tractor hydraulic oil, not DOT).
- Drain pan, pump or siphon, clean rags, funnels, new hydraulic filter (if present), spanners, possibly tubing for venting, and gloves/eye protection.

Procedure:
1. Confirm model uses wet brakes (see identification). Park level, chock wheels.
2. Warm oil by running engine a few minutes (optional) — warm oil flows and drains easier. Be cautious of hot parts.
3. Clean around reservoir cap. Remove filler cap and screen/strainer (if present).
4. Use a pump/turkey baster or siphon to remove as much old oil from the reservoir as you can. Dispose appropriately.
5. Open transmission/axle drain plugs (final drive and main case) to drain as much old oil as possible from the gearbox and hubs into a pan. On some tractors you’ll drain both the gearbox and the final drives separately.
6. Replace or clean screen/strainer and install new filter if fitted.
7. Close drains. Refill reservoir with the specified hydraulic/transmission oil to the correct level.
8. With engine OFF initially, cycle the brake pedal several times to move oil through passages. Top-up reservoir as needed.
9. Start engine and with parking brake off and tractor chocked, slowly apply brake pedal repeatedly while watching for leaks and checking reservoir level. If the system has bleeder nipples on wheel hubs or final drives, open them slightly while cycling to let trapped air out; close before releasing pedal. Repeat several cycles until no bubbles appear in reservoir or bleeder lines and pedal feel is firm.
10. For stubborn contamination: several drain/refill cycles may be necessary: drain gearbox/hubs, refill, operate brakes to move oil, drain again until cleaner oil appears.
11. Confirm final oil level and proper fill marks. Replace caps and clean up spills.

What can go wrong — symptoms, causes and fixes
- Spongy pedal / low pedal travel
- Cause: air in lines, fluid contaminated/waterlogged, worn brake components, fluid leak.
- Fix: bleed system, replace fluid, find and repair leaks, inspect shoes/discs.
- Hard pedal with poor braking
- Cause: seized caliper/wheel cylinder, stuck return springs, excessive contamination in wet brakes.
- Fix: disassemble and service braking components; clean/replace parts; flush oil thoroughly.
- Brake drag after service
- Cause: overfilled reservoir, improper bleeding sequence, damaged return springs, collapsed hoses, wrong fluid.
- Fix: check level (do not overfill), inspect for seized cylinders/calipers, correct fluid.
- Corroded lines, stuck bleeder screws
- Cause: old fluid, water in system.
- Fix: replace corroded lines and seized bleeders; soak in penetrating oil then carefully open; cut out and flare new lines if necessary.
- Wrong fluid used
- Cause: confusion between DOT and hydraulic oil.
- Fix: drain entire system, flush thoroughly, replace seals/components damaged by improper fluid. This can be expensive — don’t mix.
- Boiling fluid / fade under heavy use
- Cause: contaminated/water-laden fluid with lower boiling point.
- Fix: replace fluid and avoid heavy loads until safe. For wet brakes, ensure correct oil grade.

Special tips and best practices
- Always use fresh, sealed fluid from a clean container. Do not reuse drained fluid.
- Label the cap or take a photo to avoid confusion later.
- Keep dirt out. A single grain can cause a stuck valve or leak.
- Replace rubber hoses older than ~6–10 years; they swell internally and can leak under pressure.
- Replace the hydraulic filter and strainer when flushing wet systems.
- If bleeder nipples round off or break, be ready with an extractor or replacement caliper/wheel cylinder hardware.
- After completing service, test brakes at walking speed in a safe area before normal use.

Disposal
- Brake fluid and hydraulic oil are hazardous waste. Drain into labeled containers and take to an automotive recycling center or hazardous waste facility.

Summary checklist (before you leave)
- Confirm system type and correct fluid.
- Gather tools, new fluid and PPE.
- Drain and replace fluid per the appropriate procedure (DOT or wet).
- Bleed until clear/no air; bench-bleed master if removed.
- Replace filters/strain screens if applicable.
- Check for leaks, correct fluid level, and test brakes carefully.
- Dispose of old fluid properly.

That’s the full how-to for flushing either system you may find on those Massey Ferguson 200-series tractors. Follow the branch that matches the reservoir marking/manual: never put DOT fluid into a wet brake/transmission system and never put hydraulic/transmission oil into a DOT brake system.
rteeqp73

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