- Safety first
- Park tractor on level ground, set parking brake, put transmission in neutral, block wheels with firm chocks.
- Work with engine off and keys removed. Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves; brake/clutch fluid can irritate skin and damage paint.
- Catch all fluid in a container and dispose of it according to local regulations. Keep rags and solvent nearby for cleanup.

- Identify correct hydraulic fluid (critical)
- Check the reservoir cap or the operator/service manual for the correct fluid. Massey Ferguson tractors can use DOT brake fluid (DOT3/4) or a tractor hydraulic/mineral oil depending on year and configuration — do NOT mix DOT brake fluid with mineral hydraulic oil.
- If the cap is unmarked, match the fluid already in the reservoir or look up your tractor model’s service manual or parts fiche. Using the wrong fluid risks destroying seals.

- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Combination wrench set (metric and SAE, 8–19 mm and 5/16–3/4 inch)
- Use open-end side to loosen/tighten nuts and bolts in tight spaces; box-end for more torque and to avoid rounding.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric and SAE sizes as above)
- Use sockets for faster removal of mounting bolts and nuts; extensions reach recessed fasteners. Use a 3/8" drive ratchet for common bolts.
- Flare-nut wrench / line wrench set (7/16", 1/2" or corresponding metric sizes)
- Essential for hydraulic line fittings. These wrenches grip more sides of the nut and prevent rounding or stripping the brake/clutch line fittings.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Remove cotter pins, retainers, and small clips. Needle-nose for tight areas.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Remove panels, clamps or pry off caps.
- Drain pan and absorbent rags
- Catch old fluid and wipe spills; fluid will damage paint and adhesives.
- Clear plastic tubing (about 5–10 mm ID) and a small clear bottle for bleeding
- Fit tubing over the slave cylinder bleed nipple to direct fluid into the bottle without introducing air.
- Brake/clutch bleeding tool or hand vacuum pump (hand-held)
- Makes bleeding easier if you don’t have an assistant. Vacuum pump draws fluid/air out of the system through the bleed nipple.
- Bench-bleed kit or short length of clear tubing and small container (for bench-bleeding the master cylinder)
- Removes air from the master cylinder before installation.
- Small syringe or turkey baster
- Remove old fluid from reservoir and refill with fresh fluid safely.
- Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
- Ensures mounting bolts are tightened to correct spec — prevents leaks and damage. If unavailable, tighten snugly but avoid over-tightening.
- Hammer and punch (small)
- Remove stubborn clevis pins if needed.
- Wire brush and soft-brass brush
- Clean threaded fittings and mating surfaces to ensure good seals.
- Replacement parts and consumables: new master cylinder (or rebuild kit), new resealable caps/clips, new cotter pins, new copper crush washers for fittings (if used), fresh correct fluid, and small amount of brake cleaner
- Have these on hand before starting.

- Extra/optional tools and why they help
- Vacuum brake bleeder: allows one-person bleeding, draws fluid and air from the slave cylinder.
- Bench vice: holds new or old master cylinder during bench-bleeding.
- Calibrated torque wrench: for final tightening to specified torque values (prevents over-stressing studs/bolts).

- What parts may need replacement and why
- Master cylinder assembly (recommended if leaking or internal seals fail)
- Symptoms: soft/sinking/slow-returning clutch pedal, visible external leaks at master cylinder, inconsistent clutch disengagement.
- Replace the complete assembly if it’s corroded, cracked, or internal seals are damaged.
- Master cylinder rebuild kit (pistons, seals, springs) (alternative to full replacement)
- Use if body is sound and only internal seals are worn. Cheaper but requires care and correct parts.
- Reservoir (if cracked or contaminated)
- Replace if plastic is brittle, cracked, or heavily contaminated.
- Hydraulic line or banjo fitting and copper crush washers
- Replace if corroded, leaking, or damaged. Copper washers seal banjo fittings — always replace crush washers when removing banjo bolts.
- Slave cylinder
- Inspect at the transmission: if leaking or sticking, replace it when you replace the master — otherwise air can remain and cause problems.
- Clevis pin, retaining clip, cotter pin
- Small hardware should be replaced if bent or corroded.

- How to use the tools (short, concrete guidance)
- Flare-nut wrench: slip it over the hydraulic fitting and turn gently to break it loose; hold the line on the opposite side where accessible to prevent twisting.
- Socket and ratchet: select correct socket, seat fully on the bolt head, pull the ratchet handle to loosen; reverse to tighten. Use extensions to reach deep bolts.
- Combination wrench: use the box end where possible for most leverage; open end for quick turning where space is limited.
- Clear tubing on bleed nipple: push tubing firmly onto nipple, place other end into catch bottle; open nipple with correct-size wrench only while pumping pedal or running vacuum.
- Bench-bleeding master cylinder: mount it in a vice or on a flat surface, connect clear tubing from outlet ports back into the reservoir, cycle the piston slowly until bubbles stop, keep reservoir topped up.
- Vacuum pump: attach to bleed nipple, draw fluid until clear, then have assistant pump pedal while you operate pump for final purging, or use vacuum continuously while closing nipple.

- Replacement procedure (beginner-friendly; read fully before starting)
- Prepare: gather tools, replacement parts, correct fluid, rags, catch pan; ensure wheel chocks and safety gear are used.
- Locate system components: find master cylinder (mounted near clutch pedal/firewall or on pedal assembly) and trace hydraulic line to the slave cylinder on transmission.
- Remove old fluid from reservoir: use a syringe or turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible to reduce spillage and contamination.
- Protect painted areas: cover surfaces under the reservoir and along the line with rags or cardboard to catch spills.
- Disconnect hydraulic line: place drain pan; use flare-nut wrench to loosen the line fitting at the master cylinder. Plug or cap the line to keep contaminants out (a short rubber cap or clean rag).
- Disconnect pushrod from clutch pedal: remove cotter pin or retaining clip and the clevis pin; note or photograph the orientation and spacing to reinstall correctly.
- Remove mounting bolts: use sockets/wrenches to remove the bolts holding the master cylinder to the firewall/pedal bracket. Support the unit while removing the last bolt to prevent dropping.
- Remove the master cylinder: lift clear, drain any remaining fluid into pan. Inspect the mounting area and pedal clevis for wear or damage.
- Bench-bleed or rebuild/replace:
- If reusing or installing a rebuilt/new master, bench-bleed it first: secure in a vice or flat surface, connect clear tubing from the outlet(s) back into the reservoir, slowly push the piston (with a screwdriver or rod) until no bubbles appear and fluid runs clear. Keep reservoir topped up.
- If fitting a new assembly, compare fittings and mount orientation to the old one; transfer any brackets or fittings as needed.
- Install new master cylinder: position on mounting bracket, start bolts by hand, then tighten evenly with socket. If possible, torque to service manual value; otherwise tighten snugly but do not over-tighten.
- Reconnect pushrod/clevis: insert clevis pin and secure with new cotter pin; ensure pedal travel and free play match prior setup or manual specs.
- Reconnect hydraulic line: fit new copper washers if applicable, thread fitting by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with flare-nut wrench snugly.
- Refill reservoir with correct fluid: pour slowly and keep the reservoir at least half full during bleeding.
- Bleed the system:
- Traditional two-person method: have an assistant slowly depress clutch pedal several times and hold it down; open slave cylinder bleed nipple slightly to let fluid and air out until only clear fluid flows, then close the nipple while the pedal is still down. Repeat until pedal feels firm and consistent. Top up reservoir as needed.
- One-person vacuum method: attach vacuum pump to bleed nipple, run pump while moving pedal slowly; when only clear fluid appears, close nipple and remove pump, then top off reservoir.
- Ensure there are no air bubbles and pedal returns smoothly. Repeat bleeding sequence if pedal sinks or feels spongy.
- Inspect for leaks: tighten fittings if small weeps appear, re-torque fittings after a short test run and reuse of system.
- Final checks: ensure pedal free play and engagement point are correct per manual or as they were previously; check for leaks after driving/using tractor; dispose of old fluid and rags properly.

- Troubleshooting and when to replace parts instead of rebuilding
- Replace master if:
- Visible external leaks from cylinder body.
- Severe corrosion or cracked body.
- Rebuilding doesn’t restore proper pressure or pedal feel.
- Replace slave cylinder if:
- It leaks, is seized, or does not hold pressure after master replacement.
- If pedal still sinks after correct bleeding and both cylinders are leak-free, there may be internal transmission/component issues — inspect linkages and internal seals.

- Quick symptom guide (what warrants replacement)
- Clutch pedal slowly sinks to floor with steady pressure → internal seal failure in master or leak at slave; master or slave likely needs repair/replacement.
- Soft/spongy pedal that improves after bleeding → trapped air; bleed carefully.
- External fluid on firewall or pedal area → replace defective master or reservoir.

- Final notes (practical tips)
- Keep everything clean: contamination causes early seal failure. Cap lines and openings immediately after disconnection.
- Work methodically and keep removed parts in labeled piles or small containers.
- If unsure about fluid type or complexity, buy the correct master cylinder assembly for MF255/MF265/MF270/MF275/MF290 from a reputable dealer; often cheaper and safer than a rebuild for a beginner.
- If you don’t have a helper, invest in a vacuum bleeder or one-man bleed kit — they save time and frustration.

- Typical replacement part to order (how to request it)
- Ask for a clutch master cylinder assembly or clutch master cylinder rebuild kit for Massey Ferguson MF255 / MF265 / MF270 / MF275 / MF290 (specify chassis/year if possible).
- Request matching slave cylinder or a kit that includes banjo bolts and crush washers if the line fittings are corroded.
- If you can, provide dealer the tractor serial number for exact fitment; otherwise state model and year.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Wipe spilled fluid immediately from painted surfaces; use brake cleaner if available and wipe with clean rags.
- Collect used fluid and contaminated rags in sealed containers for proper disposal at a hazardous waste facility.

No unnecessary commentary — follow these steps carefully and replace any leaky or badly corroded components rather than trying temporary fixes.
rteeqp73

Massey 255 This video is about Massey 255.

Massey Ferguson 255 Drawbar Upgrade We have modified/improved the factory drawbar application on a Massey Ferguson 255 tractor.

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