- Safety and preparation
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or mechanic gloves, and steel-toe boots to protect from fluids, hot surfaces and dropped tools.
- Work on a flat surface, engage parking brake, chock wheels, and disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking.
- Have an up-to-date Massey Ferguson MF 6100 Series workshop/service manual (OEM) for engine ID, torque specs, timing/rotation procedures and part numbers — torque values and lift/clearance procedures are model-specific and required.
- Keep a clean workspace with good lighting, absorbent mats/old cardboard, and labeled containers/zip-lock bags for bolts and small parts.

- Basic parts you will likely need (inspect before reuse; replace if worn or damaged)
- Hydraulic lifters (tappets) — replace if noisy, collapsed, leaking, scored, or not holding oil pressure; engines with worn lifters will make ticking that does not disappear after warm‑up.
- Valve cover gasket — remove valve cover to access lifters; gasket replacement is cheapest way to prevent oil leaks.
- Pushrods — replace if bent, scored, or with worn ends; straightness and surface finish are critical.
- Rocker arms — replace if worn at contact points or if bearings/pivots are damaged.
- Valve stem seals — replace if oil consumption or blue smoke appears; remove rocker/cover to inspect.
- Engine oil and oil filter — change oil and filter after work to flush debris from worn lifters.
- Additional possible parts if damage found: camshaft/lobes, cylinder head gasket (if head removal needed), head bolts (some are torque-to-yield), O-rings/seals.

- Basic tools you should already have (detailed descriptions and how to use)
- Metric socket set (3/8” and 1/2” drive, deep and shallow sockets) — used to remove bolts and nuts; select correct size, attach to ratchet, use extensions for hard-to-reach bolts, work in steady, perpendicular alignment to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Ratchet wrench (3/8” and 1/2” drives) — turns sockets; use 3/8” for smaller bolts and 1/2” for larger; hand-force only unless a breaker bar is required for stubborn fasteners.
- Combination wrench set (open-end/box-end) — for bolts where sockets won’t fit; use the box end for maximum grip and avoid rounding.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — for hose clamps and small screws; use the correct tip size to avoid stripping heads.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint) — for removing clips, hoses and holding small parts; use needle-nose for precision.
- Torque wrench (click-type, suitable range to at least the highest engine torque spec) — calibrate if needed; use to tighten bolts to manufacturer torque specs in the correct sequence to avoid leaks and component damage.
- Breaker bar — for initially loosening tight bolts; use in-line force, not sudden jerks.
- Hammer and soft-faced mallet (rubber) — for light persuasion of stuck covers or parts; avoid steel hammering metal-on-metal surfaces.
- Feeler gauge set — required only if adjusting solid lifters; measure clearances between valve stem and rocker/pushrod as per spec.
- Shop rags, cleaning solvent (brake cleaner or parts cleaner), and gasket scraper — clean mating surfaces and remove gasket residue.
- Oil drain pan and funnels — capture drained oil and refill cleanly.
- Magnetic pick-up tool — retrieve dropped bolts or lifters from tight recesses.
- Flashlight or work light — for good visibility inside valve cover and engine compartments.
- Marker and masking tape — label rockers/pushrods to keep original order and orientation.

- Extra/optional tools you will need for lifter removal or replacement and why
- Valve spring compressor (engine-specific or universal) — required if you need to remove valve springs to replace lifters from the head side; it safely compresses springs to remove keepers without damaging valves.
- Lifter removal tool or small slide hammer with adapter — helps extract lifters that are stuck in the block bore; some lifters sit deep and magnet alone may not pull them free.
- Magnetic lifter retriever (strong) — useful for picking up hydraulic lifters from the cam valley and extracting them through passages.
- Camshaft/valve timing locking tools (if head removal or cam removal is required) — keeps timing components in correct position to prevent damage to valves/pistons when disassembling timing components.
- Engine hoist or support bar and engine stand (only if removing the engine or cylinder head) — necessary for major repairs such as head removal; head removal will require heavy lifting and safe support.
- Digital camera or phone — document component positions, pushrod/rocker labeling and wiring before disassembly.

- Inspection steps (before replacing anything)
- Start engine and listen for lifter noise; note which side of engine the noise appears to come from and whether noise changes with rpm and temperature.
- Check oil level and oil condition; low oil or contaminated/old oil causes lifter noise and failure — top up or change oil if low/dirty.
- Remove valve cover(s) following manual instructions and inspect rocker assembly, pushrods and lifters for scoring, sludge, oil-feed restrictions and looseness.
- Rotate engine by hand (use socket on crank pulley or follow manual) so intake/exhaust valves are closed on cylinder being inspected; inspect pushrod ends, rocker faces and lifter tops for wear, collapse or looseness.
- If pushrods are loose in rocker or lifter bores, note position and mark for reinstallation order.

- Replacement/repair procedure (engine with hydraulic lifters, typical workflow)
- Gather replacement lifters and gaskets, new oil and filter, tools and manual.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent accidental starting.
- Drain oil if recommended; if lifters are being replaced, replacing oil and filter afterward is strongly recommended to remove metal debris.
- Remove air intake components and any obstructing parts to access valve cover(s) per manual.
- Remove valve cover(s): loosen bolts in sequence recommended, pry gently with gasket scraper and soft mallet if necessary.
- Label each rocker arm and pushrod location with tape/marker to preserve the exact order and orientation.
- Remove rocker arms or rocker assemblies per manual — use proper socket/wrench and keep fasteners together labeled.
- Remove pushrods and lay them in their original positions; inspect for straightness and wear; replace any that are bent or have damaged ends.
- Extract lifters using a strong magnet or lifter removal tool; if stuck, use the removal tool or carefully compress valve spring (if head removal route) — do not lever on aluminum surfaces.
- Inspect camshaft lobes and journals for scoring; if cam damage exists, replace cam and matching lifters as a set — camshaft wear will destroy new lifters.
- Clean lifter bores with solvent and compressed air to ensure oil passages are clear; remove sludge, varnish and metal flakes.
- Prime new hydraulic lifters by filling lifter cavities with clean engine oil (some manuals recommend soaking lifters in oil and pushing the plunger to expel air) so they start filled with oil.
- Install new lifters in the exact bores they came from if specified by manual; for some engines lifter bores are not interchangeable — follow manual guidance.
- Reinstall pushrods in original positions; ensure bases are seated in the lifter cup and upper ends are correctly aligned with rocker saddles.
- Refit rocker arms and torque bolts to the manufacturer’s sequence and torque specs using a calibrated torque wrench.
- For hydraulic lifters: no valve lash clearance set is usually required; follow manual bleed-in/run-in procedure (e.g., start engine, idle, rev briefly to seat lifters, then re-torque rocker bolts if manual requires).
- For solid lifters: adjust valve lash with feeler gauge to specified clearance for intake/exhaust and torque rocker hardware to spec.
- Reinstall valve cover with new gasket and torque bolts to spec in correct sequence.
- Refill engine with correct grade and quantity of oil and install a new oil filter; prime oil system if required by manual (some suggest cranking without starting to build oil pressure).
- Start engine, let idle, listen for abnormal noise; run to temperature and re-check for oil leaks, re-torque if instructed by manual after warm-up.
- Change oil and filter after a short run-in interval (as recommended) if heavy wear or metal debris was present; inspect oil drain for metal filings.

- When head removal or deeper engine work is required (indications and essentials)
- If lifters are severely seized, cam lobes are damaged, valves are stuck, or lifters cannot be extracted from the block, cylinder head or cam removal may be required.
- Head removal requires engine-specific timing procedures, torque-to-yield bolt replacement (if applicable), new head gasket, and precise torque/sequence when reassembling — use workshop manual and consider dealer or experienced mechanic help.
- Extra tools needed include engine hoist/support, cam timing locking tools, new head bolts, valve spring compressor, and possibly a machining check on the head surface.

- How to use key tools safely and correctly (concise)
- Torque wrench: set desired torque, tighten smoothly until click, stop turning; use correct drive adapter and socket; re-zero after use and store horizontally.
- Feeler gauge: insert blade between valve stem and rocker; select blade that drags slightly; use specified clearance; bend only if required by technique, avoid force.
- Valve spring compressor: place compressor correctly on spring retainer, compress slowly, remove keepers with magnet/pick, release slowly; keep compressed springs secure.
- Lifter removal tool/magnet: attach to lifter face and pull straight up; avoid twisting or levering against bores; use penetrating oil on stuck lifters and patience.
- Socket/ratchet: pull rather than jerk; use correct socket size and maintain straight alignment to fastener.
- Cleaning solvent and scraper: avoid gouging aluminum; use plastic scraper or thin metal with care; wipe with clean rags and blow out oil passages with compressed air (wear eye protection).

- Signs that replacement is required and why
- Persistent ticking or tapping that does not diminish after warm-up indicates collapsed or leaking hydraulic lifter.
- Excessive valve train noise localized to a cylinder, visible wear/scoring on lifter surface, or lifter that moves loosely in bore means replace the lifter.
- Metal flakes in oil or on oil drain plug indicate lifter or cam wear — replace lifters and inspect cam; change oil and filter.
- Bent pushrods or scored rocker contact surfaces require replacement to prevent rapid re-failure of new lifters.
- Oil pressure problems that affect lifter operation may require oil pump or oil passage cleaning; replace parts as indicated by diagnosis.

- Final checks and maintenance
- After reassembly, run engine and check for leaks, correct idle, and listen for abnormal sounds.
- Re-inspect torque of valve cover and rocker bolts after warm-up only if manual requires a re-torque.
- Monitor oil pressure and consumption for several hours/days of operation; re-check for noise.
- Keep maintenance interval: regular oil and filter changes with the correct oil weight and quality will maximize lifter life.

- Important cautions
- Do not proceed without the service manual for the MF 6100 Series — torque specs, timing and lifter-specific procedures are critical.
- If you are unsure about removing the head, cam or timing components, get a professional: incorrect timing can cause piston-to-valve contact and major engine damage.
- Replacing lifters without checking camshaft condition risks destroying new lifters; always inspect cam lobes and journals.

- Quick parts checklist to bring or order before starting
- New hydraulic lifters (OEM part numbers from manual or dealer)
- Valve cover gasket(s)
- Pushrods (if suspect)
- Rocker arms (as needed)
- Valve stem seals (if replacing head or observed leak)
- Oil filter and correct grade oil (full refill)
- Misc gaskets, O-rings and replacement bolts as specified by manual

- Final note
- Follow the MF 6100 Series workshop manual step-by-step for model-specific procedures, torque values and timing instructions to avoid damage and ensure correct lifter installation.
rteeqp73

John deere VS massey ferguson

cool sound of the exhaust from Massey Ferguson! camera on the roof :D.

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