1) Quick theory — what a shock absorber does and how failure shows up
- Function: a shock absorber is a hydraulic (sometimes gas‑charged) damper that converts the kinetic energy of suspension movement into heat via a piston and valving that forces fluid through small orifices. It controls compression and rebound velocities so the spring’s energy is dissipated and the chassis settles quickly.
- Symptoms of a bad shock: excessive bounce after hitting a bump, body roll, nose dive under braking, porpoising at speed, uneven or rapid tyre wear, fluid leakage on the shock body, reduced braking/traction stability. A worn shock has reduced damping coefficient and allows uncontrolled oscillation of the sprung mass.
- How replacement fixes it: a new shock restores designed damping force (correct resistance to compression/rebound), stopping oscillation, keeping tyres in contact with the road, reducing stopping distance, tyre wear and body movement. New seals stop leaks and internal valving restores the intended hysteresis between compression and rebound.

2) Preparatory theory and safety points (do not skip)
- Always support the vehicle securely on axle stands. Never rely on a jack only.
- If shocks mount into a coil spring or strut assembly, the spring can store dangerous energy — use a spring compressor or follow the official disassembly method. On leaf‑spring trucks (typical rear on these models) shocks are independent of the spring.
- Mounting hardware and rubber bushes transmit loads; bolt torque and suspension position at torque affect bush life. Tighten bolts with the suspension at normal ride height where required so bushings are not preloaded or crushed.

3) Tools and consumables
- Floor jack and axle stands (rated), wheel chocks
- Socket set, combination wrenches, breaker bar, torque wrench
- Penetrating oil, wire brush, hammer/soft mallet, pry bar
- New shock absorbers (OE or equivalent), new mounting hardware and bushings if worn
- Threadlocker if manufacturer specifies, anti‑seize for threads if allowed
- Safety glasses, gloves

4) Diagnostic checks to do before removal (confirm necessity)
- Bounce test: push down on a corner and release — a single or two oscillations is normal; 3+ or prolonged bouncing means weak damping.
- Visual: oil on shock body or around lower eye/shaft indicates seal failure.
- Compare left/right ride and damping response to detect asymmetric failure.

5) Ordered replacement procedure (general for front and rear telescopic shocks)
Note: follow the vehicle service manual for exact fastener locations, steps unique to your axle, and torque values. The order below is the logical sequence.

A. Prepare vehicle
1. Park on level ground, engage park/gear and chock opposite wheels.
2. Loosen wheel nuts slightly if you will remove wheels.
3. Raise vehicle with jack and support on axle stands at recommended lift points. Ensure suspension hangs at normal ride height where you're going to work on it, or support axle at ride height later when torquing bolts (see step 5F).

B. Access and inspect
4. Remove wheel if needed to access shock.
5. Clean around upper and lower mounts; apply penetrating oil to nuts/bolts and let soak.

C. Support the axle/suspension
6. Support the axle or control arm with a jack stand or jack so the shock does not hold the load when you remove fasteners.

D. Remove the old shock
7. Remove lower mounting fastener(s) first (bolt, nut). On many truck shocks this is a through bolt with a nut on the outside. If rusted, use penetrating oil, impact or heat as needed.
8. Remove upper mounting fasteners (nuts or studs) — keep the shock steady as you remove these so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
9. Extract shock from mounts. Note orientation, bushings, washers and any sleeves — preserve or replace these parts.

E. Inspect mounts and ancillary parts
10. Inspect rubber bushings, sleeves, top mounts and isolators; replace any worn, cracked or corroded components. Check mount threads for damage.
11. Clean mating surfaces and remove corrosion.

F. Install new shock — theory for correct fit
12. Assemble new shock with new bushings and sleeves in the same orientation as removed.
13. Mount upper end first or lower first depending on access; either is acceptable provided you support the suspension. Best practice: position shock and loosely fit both top and bottom fasteners so parts align without forcing.
14. Set suspension to normal ride height (support vehicle on wheels or set jack under axle to simulate ride height) and then torque mounting bolts to manufacturer specs. Reason: torqueing with the suspension drooped can preload rubber bushings and reduce life or cause binding; at ride height bushings are loaded as in normal use.
15. If the manufacturer allows or requests, use threadlocker on certain nut threads and anti‑seize where specified.

G. Reassembly and final checks
16. Refit wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec, remove chocks.
17. Cycle suspension by pushing the corner up/down a few times to seat parts.
18. Road test at low speed to check for noises and for improved damping, then perform a full test: braking, cornering and repeated bumps to confirm no binding and that bounce is controlled.
19. After short mileage (50–100 km), re‑check and retorque fasteners as rubber bedding can settle.

6) Specific notes for Mazda T3000/T3500/T4000 style trucks
- Many of these trucks use separate telescopic shocks front and rear mounted to frame and axle/beam or leaf spring. They are not struts, so no spring compressor is usually required.
- Rear shocks on leaf‑spring trucks frequently use large bushings with sleeves; ensure sleeves are intact and replaced when corroded. Use grease sparingly only if allowable by the bushing spec.
- Front upper mounts may be inside the engine bay or behind the wheel arch; protect brake lines, ABS sensor wiring and sway bar endlinks while working.

7) What to replace besides the shock
- Replace worn top mounts, bushings, sleeves and mounting bolts that show corrosion or elongation.
- If shocks failed because of a bent mount, fix the mount or frame first.
- If tyre wear or alignment issues are present, follow replacement with an alignment check.

8) How the repair fixes the specific driving faults — technical explanation
- Reduced bounce/oscillation: new valving generates viscous resistance proportional to piston speed, so when the wheel moves up/down the energy is dissipated and the mass returns to equilibrium quickly.
- Improved tyre contact: damping prevents the wheel from leaving the road after a bump, keeping vertical load on the tyre and maintaining lateral traction — fewer skips, better cornering grip.
- Less nose dive and squat: controlled compression damping during braking and acceleration keeps chassis attitude stable, which improves weight transfer predictability and shortens stopping distance.
- Noise and harshness reduction: new seals and smooth piston action remove rattle and unwanted piston‑rod movement that causes clunks and harshness.
- Stopping leaks and contamination: replacing leaking shocks removes hydraulic fluid loss and prevents accelerated wear of bushings and mounts.

9) Testing and verification
- Bounce test again — 1–2 oscillations only.
- Drive test: check braking stability, cornering, rebound after bumps. Verify no new noises.
- Inspect for leaks after test drive.

10) Disposal
- Drain/contain any oily residue and dispose of old shocks and contaminated materials according to local regulations.

Concise summary: diagnose by bounce test and visual leak, remove wheel and support axle, remove lower then upper fasteners, replace with identical dampers and new bushings, torque at ride height, verify by road test. The repair restores designed hydraulic damping so the chassis stops oscillating and tyres remain in contact with the road, improving safety and tyre life.
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