Tools & equipment
- 4-wheel alignment machine (3D or 2D) with wheel clamps and turnplates (preferred). If not available: camber/caster gauge, toe plates or straightedge, string-line kit, digital inclinometer, and turn plates.
- Jack and heavy-duty jack stands or 2-post/4-post lift (use factory lift points).
- Wheel chocks, breaker bar, torque wrench, socket set, open-end wrenches.
- Pry bar, hammer, punch, screwdriver set.
- Tie-rod separator/pickle fork or ball joint press (if replacements required).
- Measuring tape, chalk/marker, shop light.
- Penetrant and anti-seize, thread locker.
- Tire gauge and air compressor.
- Replacement parts commonly needed: inner/outer tie-rod ends, center link/idler arm, ball joints, kingpin bushings or kingpins (if applicable), control arm bushings, axle shims, camber/caster shims.

Safety first
- Park on level surface or use lift. Chock rear wheels and set parking brake. If jacking, use rated jack stands under manufacturer lift points; never rely on a jack alone.
- Engine off (except when instructed by alignment machine for steering inputs). Keys out.
- Support vehicle securely before removing wheels or working under it.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- If vehicle has air suspension, put it in normal ride height; do not let suspension droop while adjusting unless instructed.
- Use correct torque values from the service manual for all fasteners.

Pre-check (do not try to align until these are good)
1. Tires: inspect tread, wear pattern, correct pressure, rotate or replace if severely uneven. Replace mismatched tires.
2. Wheels: check for bent rims, loose lug nuts, wheel runout.
3. Suspension & steering: check for play/wear in tie-rod ends, ball joints, center link, idler arm, pitman arm (if equipped), wheel bearings, control arm bushings, kingpins. Replace any worn/loose components — aligning an assembly with worn parts is pointless.
4. Rear axle: inspect mount bushings, leaf spring shackles, and check for bent axle or mislocated axle. Rear ride height should be correct for load condition.
5. Center steering wheel: ensure steering wheel is straight and locked/held during setup if possible.

Procedure — using a professional alignment machine (recommended)
1. Prepare vehicle:
- Set tires to correct pressure; fuel level, spare, and typical cargo/load should be present if alignment specs are load-dependent.
- Drive vehicle onto alignment rack; center and secure on turnplates at front wheels (rear wheels on rollers or fixed plates depending on rack).
- Remove hubcaps and ensure wheels are clean where sensors will clamp.

2. Mount clamps/sensors:
- Attach wheel clamps/sensors to each wheel per machine instructions. Ensure clamps are tight and sensors are square to wheel plane.
- Input vehicle data into the alignment computer: year, model, wheelbase, track width, wheel size, and any offsets requested.

3. Set ride height & settle suspension:
- Roll vehicle forward/back slowly (per machine prompts) to settle suspension and let sensors zero. Many machines require cross-roll (forward 1–2 m and back) to eliminate static bias.

4. Initial reading:
- Take initial readings of camber, caster, toe, and thrust angle. Machine will display each spec and show which are out of range.

5. Adjust camber:
- Identify which corners have camber out of spec. For T3000/T3500/T4000-type trucks camber can be adjusted by:
- Eccentric bolts at upper control arm, adjustable strut mount, or shims between axle and leaf spring perch depending on model.
- Loosen the camber fasteners per manual, move control arm/strut/axle to achieve target camber, and re-tighten to torque spec.
- Use machine to observe live camber changes while adjusting.
- Repeat for both sides until within spec.

6. Adjust caster:
- Caster adjustments are usually made with eccentric bolts, adjustable lower/upper control arm position, or by adding/removing shims at the axle or frame mounts.
- Adjust as required; caster is adjusted in small increments and affects steering wheel centering — keep steering wheel straight while adjusting.
- Re-torque fasteners to spec.

7. Adjust toe:
- With camber and caster set, adjust toe using tie-rod end adjustments.
- On most trucks, turn both inner/outer tie-rod ends equally (same direction & amount) to change toe while keeping steering wheel centered.
- Use the alignment machine’s live toe display to reach specified total toe and individual toe values.
- Lock jam nuts and re-torque.

8. Set thrust angle / rear axle alignment:
- Machine will show thrust angle (rear axle line vs vehicle centerline). If thrust angle is out of spec, check rear axle positioning, shims, or bent axle/leaf springs.
- Correct by adjusting rear axle shims or shackles as required or by correcting front toe to compensate if acceptable within specs. Prefer to correct rear axle if possible.

9. Final sweep & re-torque:
- Recheck all measurements after all adjustments, crossover-rolling vehicle per machine procedure to re-set suspension.
- Torque all adjusted fasteners to factory specs.
- Lock tie-rod jam nuts, confirm steering wheel centered and straight.

10. Road-test:
- Safely remove vehicle from rack.
- Road-test at moderate speed to verify steering wheel centering, straight tracking, and feel.
- Re-check toe after test if necessary.

Procedure — string-line / manual method (when machine not available)
1. Prepare vehicle on level floor with turn plates or small plates under front wheels so wheels can pivot.
2. Set rear wheels square: measure rear wheel centerline distances and use string or a straightedge to establish a centerline reference.
3. Run parallel strings along both sides of the vehicle, equidistant from rear wheels, and tension them to be parallel to vehicle centerline.
4. Use a tape to measure from the string to the front and rear rim flange or a fixed point on the wheel at hub height on each front wheel.
5. Difference between front and rear measurements on a wheel = toe for that wheel (front closer to centerline = toe-in). Adjust tie rods until these differences match the specification (or both equal and within acceptable range).
6. Camber and caster: use a camber gauge attached to wheel or hub. For caster, use a caster gauge or measure offset change by turning wheel 20–30 degrees and using the caster gauge method. These are accurate only if the suspension is under normal ride height and there’s no play.
7. Re-check and road-test.

How the tools are used — short notes
- Alignment sensors: clamp to wheel, ensure they are level and secure. Input vehicle data, roll vehicle to settle, use live readouts to guide adjustments.
- Turnplates: allow wheels to pivot freely while toe and thrust adjustments are made; ensure plates are clean and seated.
- Camber/caster gauge: attach to rim/hub; camber measures tilt of wheel; caster gauge measures steering pivot axis tilt by comparing angle differences when wheel is turned.
- String-line: establish true vehicle centerline and parallel reference lines; measure perpendicular distances to wheel flanges; changes reflect toe.
- Torque wrench: tighten nuts to specified torque after adjustments.

Common problems & pitfalls to avoid
- Trying to align with worn steering/suspension parts — results will be unstable or immediately go out of spec.
- Not matching ride/loaded height — alignment must be done with vehicle at normal ride height and load.
- Loose or improperly clamped sensors/wheels — false readings.
- Not centering steering wheel before making toe adjustments — results in an off-center steering wheel.
- Adjusting one side only — toe must be adjusted equally where required to maintain wheel centering.
- Failure to re-torque fasteners after adjustment or not using thread locker where specified.
- Doing alignment with incorrect tire pressures or mismatched tires.
- Using a jack only; never work under an un-supported vehicle.
- Overcompensating toe to hide rear axle thrust problems — leads to premature tire wear.

When replacement is required
- Replace tie-rod ends, ball joints, center link, idler arm, pitman arm, wheel bearings if there is play or torn boots.
- Replace bushings or add/remove axle shims if ride height or axle lateral position is wrong.
- If kingpins/kingpin bushings are worn (older trucks), replace or rebuild steering knuckles.
- Replace bent components (control arms, tie rods, axle tubes) – do not attempt to align a bent structure.

Final checks
- Confirm all fasteners to factory torque specs (consult Mazda service manual for T3000/T3500/T4000 exact specs).
- Verify steering wheel centered, vehicle tracks straight, no pull on road test, tire wear pattern corrected or improving.
- Advise immediate return if any new noises, looseness, or handling issues appear.

Follow factory service manual for model-specific adjustment points, bolt locations, and torque values.
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