Ordered procedure (do these one at a time) with the theory and why each action fixes the fault.

Preparation (theory + what you need)
1. Theory: Spark plug wires conduct high-voltage pulses from the ignition coil/distributor to each spark plug. They must present the correct resistance and insulation to deliver energy without arcing or radiated interference and must be connected in the correct firing order so each cylinder fires at the right time.
2. Tools/parts: matched replacement wire set (same lengths/terminals), terminal pliers, dielectric grease, wire separators/clips, multimeter, clean rags, gloves. Work with ignition OFF and key out.

Step 1 — Identify system type and firing order
1. Theory: Some Mazda trucks use a distributor + coil; others use coil packs. The firing order and cylinder numbering determine which wire goes where. Wrong routing = incorrect cylinder firing → misfire, no-start, possible damage.
2. Action: Locate the firing order sticker or repair manual for your engine. If unavailable, label each wire at both ends (use tape/marker) before removing any. Confirm cylinder numbering by engine layout.

Step 2 — Inspect existing wires (diagnostic theory)
1. Theory: Visible cracks, burns, oil contamination, damaged boots, or carbon tracking indicate insulation failure and possible leakage/arcing. Electrical resistance too high or open means poor energy delivery.
2. Action: Visually inspect boots and wire insulation. Measure resistance with a multimeter: resistance should scale with length and be within manufacturer range (compare to new set). Replace if cracked, burnt, open, or showing heavy carbon.

Step 3 — Replace one wire at a time to preserve firing order (critical procedure)
1. Theory: Removing multiple wires risks swapping connections and changing firing order, causing misfires.
2. Action (ordered):
a. Pick one spark plug wire. Pull only that wire off the distributor/coil and the spark plug. Remove by twisting the boot and pulling the boot, not the conductor.
b. Match the removed wire to the new wire of identical length/terminal type.
c. Check the new wire’s resistance before fitting to ensure continuity.
d. Apply a thin smear of dielectric grease inside each boot (keeps moisture out, eases seating; do not fill the boot).
e. Route the new wire along the same path, clip it into separators/clips, keep it away from exhaust heat and moving parts.
f. Seat the boots firmly on the spark plug and on the distributor/coil until they click/snug.
g. Repeat for the next wire, one at a time, until all are replaced.

Step 4 — Routing and separation (theory + action)
1. Theory: Wires routed parallel and too close to each other can capacitively couple high-voltage pulses and cause crossfire. Contact with hot or sharp surfaces accelerates insulation breakdown.
2. Action: Use original clips or new separators to keep wires apart and at safe clearance from the exhaust manifold. Avoid crossing wires over each other wherever practical.

Step 5 — Final checks and test
1. Theory: Proper seating and wire integrity are necessary for full spark energy and timing stability.
2. Action: Re-check all connections, confirm no wires are loose. Start engine and listen for smooth idle and no misfire. If a rough idle or codes persist, re-check connections, coil/distributor cap, rotor, and plugs.

How the repair fixes the typical faults (concise mapping)
1. Fault: Misfire, rough idle, hesitation
- Why: High resistance, open wire, or arcing prevents sufficient voltage reaching the plug or causes the spark to jump to ground instead of the plug.
- How replacement fixes: New wires restore a low-loss, insulated path; correct resistance and tight boots ensure full spark energy at the electrode so combustion occurs correctly.
2. Fault: Intermittent misfire or radio/static interference
- Why: Insulation breakdown or poor suppression allows electrical noise and crossfire.
- How replacement fixes: New, properly suppressed wires reduce EMI and stop unintended arcing between adjacent wires.
3. Fault: Visible arcing or carbon tracking on boots
- Why: Cracked boots or oil contamination create conductive paths that bleed off voltage.
- How replacement fixes: New boots and cleaned contact surfaces eliminate leakage paths and ensure the spark goes where intended.
4. Fault: Hard starting
- Why: Weak or intermittent spark under cranking due to high resistance/poor connections.
- How replacement fixes: Consistent low-resistance connections provide reliable spark during cranking.

Additional practical theory points (brief)
- Resistance vs. capacitance: Modern resistor-type wires add resistance/capacitance to suppress radio noise; too high resistance reduces spark energy. Use a matched set — mix-and-match can change performance.
- One-at-a-time replacement preserves firing order and minimizes confusion.
- Always seat boots fully — poor mechanical contact increases contact resistance drastically.

Safety reminders (brief)
- Ignition OFF, key out, engine cool. Avoid touching exposed terminals when cranking. Use insulated tools if necessary.

That’s the ordered procedure with the underlying theory and how each action remedies specific faults.
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