Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set + ratchet, extensions
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers
- Long-nose pliers
- Hose clamp pliers or screwdriver for worm clamps
- Small flexible nylon-bristled brush (hose/pipe brush) for 8–16 mm bore
- Compressed air with regulator and blow gun (set to low pressure: 20–30 psi)
- Clean rags, disposable gloves, eye protection
- Parts cleaner or solvent (brake cleaner or diesel-safe degreaser)
- New blow-by (breather) hose (oil/heat-resistant rubber), new clamps, new grommet or PCV valve if fitted
- Penetrating oil (if clamps are corroded)
- Oil catch pan (if some oil will drain)
- Optional: vacuum/pressure gauge to check crankcase pressure

Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine or let it cool to avoid burns.
- Battery negative disconnected if you’ll be removing electrical connectors or working around the intake area.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; work in a well‑ventilated area (solvents and oil mist).
- Regulate shop air; never use full shop pressure for cleaning hoses — 20–30 psi max.
- Don’t force debris into the engine. Block openings with clean rag or use a catch pan when disconnecting.
- Keep flames/sparks away from solvent-soaked rags.

What the blow-by (breather) tube is
- The blow-by tube/vent connects the crankcase (valve cover or crankcase) to the intake or atmosphere/air cleaner so combustion gases and oil vapor are vented or returned to the intake via the PCV system. On T3000/T3500/T4000 series this is typically a small rubber hose from valve cover to intake or to a reed/PCV valve.

Step-by-step: inspect / clean / replace blow-by tube
1. Locate tube
- Identify the small rubber breather hose from the valve cover to the intake or to the air cleaner/PCV. Trace both ends so you know which end is which.

2. Prepare
- Park on level ground, engine cool, engage parking brake. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll remove electrical parts or sensors for access.
- Put catch pan and rags under the area in case oil drains.

3. Remove clamps and hoses
- Loosen clamps (use penetrating oil on corroded clamps). Remove clamp(s) and pull the hose off the fittings. Work gently to avoid tearing brittle rubber. If hose is stuck, twist gently while pulling; don’t pry against the port.

4. Inspect
- Check hose for hardening, cracks, swelling, oil saturation, internal sludge. Inspect grommet/seal at valve cover for damage. Inspect mating ports for carbon/oil sludge and the PCV valve (if present) for movement and blockage.

5. Decide: clean or replace
- Replace the hose if it’s brittle, cracked, swollen, or oil-soaked. Replacement hose should be oil- and heat-resistant (EPDM or nitrile rubber rated for crankcase ventilation, same internal diameter as original). Replace grommet/PCV if worn.

6. Cleaning procedure (if hose reusable)
- Use a solvent-soaked rag and wipe inside/outside the hose. Push a small flexible brush through to remove sludge. Blow through with compressed air from the valve-cover end toward the intake/air-cleaner end at regulated low pressure (20–30 psi) to avoid forcing debris back into the engine. Direct blow into a rag or catch pan.
- If cleaning ports: spray solvent into port, use brush, blow out carefully toward the open air/air-cleaner side — never blow solvent/debris into the intake manifold or down the cylinder. If port leads to intake, consider removing and capping/opening so debris is contained.

7. Cleaning PCV valve (if equipped)
- Remove PCV valve. Shake to check movement (should rattle). Clean with solvent and compressed air. Replace if sticky or not moving freely.

8. Reinstall or replace
- Fit new hose or cleaned hose. Replace grommet if needed. Use brand-new clamps (worm or spring type) and position them correctly over hose bead. Tighten snugly — don’t over‑torque to avoid cutting hose.
- Route hose without kinks, chafing, or contact with hot/exhaust parts. Secure with clips if required.

9. Final checks and test
- Reconnect battery if disconnected. Start engine and let idle.
- Check for leaks at connections and for oil spray. Confirm normal crankcase vent behavior: light vacuum at the PCV nipple (if you have a gauge) or slight draw when you briefly remove then replace oil filler cap (do this carefully with the engine idling).
- Recheck clamps after a short drive.

How the cleaning tool (brush + compressed air) is used
- Insert the flexible brush through the hose from the valve-cover end; pull and push to loosen sludge.
- After brushing, attach a regulated blow gun to compressed air at 20–30 psi. Direct the airflow from the valve-cover end toward the outlet so expelled oil/sludge exits away from the engine into a rag/catch pan. Keep the nozzle short distance from hose end to avoid collapsing it. Do not exceed 30 psi — higher pressure risks forcing debris into the engine or rupturing old hose.

Replacement parts typically required
- Blow-by/breather hose (replace if >5 years old, hardened, cracked or oil saturated)
- Hose clamps (recommended to replace)
- Valve cover grommet for breather port (often deteriorates)
- PCV valve or reed valve (if present and sticky)
- If heavy sludge in crankcase vent, consider oil change and inspect airbox/catch-can for contamination

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using too-high air pressure: can force sludge into intake or damage hose. Keep 20–30 psi.
- Pushing debris into the engine: always blow toward the outlet/air cleaner and capture expelled material; plug intake manifold ports if necessary.
- Reusing a brittle hose: it may split and spit oil later — replace instead of clean if suspect.
- Wrong hose material: use oil/heat-resistant hose; generic vacuum hose may fail.
- Over-tightening clamps: causes hose damage. Snug and secure only.
- Forgetting to reconnect sensors/hoses: re-check all connections before test start.
- Not replacing a faulty PCV valve: a stuck PCV will recreate blow-by problems even with new hose.

Quick verification after job
- Idle engine: no visible oil mist, no high crankcase pressure (oil cap should not pop off), no check-engine light related to intake leaks.
- Vacuum at PCV nipple or slight vacuum at oil filler cap with engine running.

Done.
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