- Quick summary
- The NV3550 in Jeep Wranglers does not have a disposable paper “oil filter” like an engine; service is normally drain-and-refill plus cleaning the magnetic pickup/plug. If you find an internal screen or aftermarket external filter on your vehicle, replacing that usually requires much more disassembly or professional work.

- Safety first (must do)
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile or mechanic’s gloves to keep fluid off skin.
- Work on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock wheels (place chocks in front of and behind at least one wheel).
- Use a quality floor jack and rated jack stands — never rely on the jack alone. Place stands under chassis points recommended in the shop manual.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and clean up spills promptly.

- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Floor jack (hydraulic): large padded saddle, pump handle; use to lift the vehicle. Position under approved lift point, pump until vehicle is high enough to place jack stands. Lower slowly onto stands.
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight): adjustable height supports; once the vehicle is lifted, lower it onto stands and verify stability before working under the car.
- Wheel chocks (rubber or wooden blocks): wedge behind wheels to prevent rolling; place them before lifting.
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm range recommended): ratchet and sockets; used to remove fill and drain plugs and any crossmembers if needed. Use correct socket size to avoid rounding plug heads.
- Breaker bar / long-handled ratchet: provides extra leverage for stuck drain/fill plugs; use slowly to avoid stripping.
- Drain pan (large capacity, low profile): catches old gear oil; position under drain plug before loosening.
- Combination wrenches (metric set): handy where a socket won’t fit; choose the correct size for the plug or bolt.
- Extension bars and universal joint (socket extension): help reach recessed plugs or awkward angles.
- Magnetic pickup or rag and small flat screwdriver: to clean metal flakes off the magnet and check for debris.
- Fluid pump (manual lever or electric syringe/funnel pump): used to pump new gear oil into the fill hole because the fill is high on the case and a funnel alone is impractical.
- Torque wrench (click-type): for final tightening to a controlled torque so you do not strip threads or overtighten plugs; if you don’t know the exact specification, tighten snug and do a small additional turn — avoid excessive force.
- Shop rags and paper towels: clean up fluid.
- Brake parts cleaner or degreaser: clean magnet and plug residue.
- Disposable gloves and drain pan liners or oil collection jugs: keep used oil contained for disposal.
- Flashlight or inspection lamp: see plugs and fluid level clearly.
- Optional but useful: impact driver (for very tight plugs) — only use if you know how to control it and use correct sockets to avoid damage.

- Extra tools you might need and why
- Transmission jack or full vehicle lift: required if internal filter/screen replacement needs the transmission removed — beyond basic home service.
- Thread chaser or helicoil kit: needed if the drain or fill hole threads are damaged. Repairing threads is more advanced; if you lack experience, seek a shop.
- Gasket maker or RTV (soapstone-approved) and replacement plugs: if a plug or seal is leaking or the plug is stripped, replacement plug or thread repair is required to stop leaks.

- Consumable parts and possible replacements (when/why)
- Gear oil (new): NV3550 commonly uses SAE 75W‑90 manual transmission gear oil that meets GL‑4 spec — check factory manual or oil cap, and avoid GL‑5 if manufacturer advises GL‑4. Quantity: fill until it runs out of the fill hole; capacity varies (~2.5–3.5 qts typical); do not rely solely on a quoted number.
- Crush washer or drain plug washer: replace if your drain (and fill) plug uses a sealing washer — many do. New washer prevents leaks.
- Replacement drain or fill plug: if threads are rounded, head damaged, or magnet is missing/damaged, replace the plug.
- Internal screen/filter (rare): if present and damaged, it may require transmission removal — considered major service.
- Sealant/RTV: only if the plug or cover requires sealant per manual; use proper non-hardening sealant if instructed.

- Step-by-step procedure (bulleted)
- Prepare: gather tools, chock wheels, set parking brake, loosen lug nuts if you’ll remove wheels for access (rare).
- Lift and support: use floor jack to raise the Jeep and place jack stands under factory-rated support points; verify stability.
- Locate fill and drain plugs on the NV3550 case: the fill plug is higher on the side and the drain is lower — remove the fill plug first to be able to fill later.
- Remove fill plug: use the correct socket or wrench; remove and inspect plug and washer; note the fill opening so you can refill to that level.
- Position drain pan under drain plug: remove the drain plug carefully and let fluid run into the pan.
- Clean magnet and inspect metal: remove plug (many drain plugs are magnetic) or remove the case magnet if applicable; wipe metal flakes onto a rag and inspect — tiny shiny specks are normal; large quantities or thick steel flakes indicate internal wear and require professional diagnosis.
- Let fluid drain until it slows to a drip.
- Replace crush washer and reinstall drain plug: clean threads, install a new washer if applicable, tighten by hand, then snug with a wrench; use torque wrench to finish if you know spec — otherwise snug + small fraction of a turn.
- Refill through fill hole: use a fluid pump or long funnel and pour gear oil until it starts to run out of the fill hole. That is the correct level.
- Reinstall fill plug with new washer if used; tighten snugly.
- Clean up: wipe area, remove drain pan, properly dispose of used gear oil at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil.
- Lower vehicle from jack stands, remove chocks.
- Road check: drive a short distance, verify there are no leaks, and recheck the fill plug for tightness and the level (fluid should be at the fill hole).

- How to use the main tools (short practical tips)
- Floor jack: center on recommended lift point, pump handle steadily; do not extend jack beyond rated height; place stands immediately after lifting.
- Jack stands: ratchet the pin or turn handle to set height, lower vehicle slowly to rest solidly on both stands, give the vehicle a firm push to confirm stability.
- Socket set / breaker bar: use the correct socket size; place socket fully on the plug head; apply steady force; if the plug doesn’t budge, use penetrating oil and let sit rather than excessive force which can round the head.
- Fluid pump: attach pickup hose into the oil container and the output into the fill hole; operate pump per manufacturer instructions; fill slowly to avoid foaming.
- Torque wrench: set to desired torque and tighten until wrench clicks; if spec unknown, avoid overtightening — a snug turn after seating is safer than a massive torque.

- When parts replacement is required and why
- Damaged drain/fill plug heads or rounded hex: replace plug to allow future service and prevent stripping.
- Stripped case threads: repair required (thread chaser, helicoil, or a shop) because leaks or inability to seal can occur.
- Excessive metal flakes or grinding noises: internal wear (bearings/gears) — not a DIY fix for beginners; have a transmission specialist inspect.
- Leaking case seams or external seals: may need new seals/gaskets or professional resealing.
- If you discover an internal screen or replaceable filter and it’s damaged, expect major labor (transmission removal); this is not a basic home job.

- Fluid disposal and environmental note
- Store used gear oil in a sealed container and take to a recycling center or participating parts store. Do not dispose in trash, down storm drains, or on the ground.

- Quick diagnostic signals to stop and call a pro
- Thick metal flakes on the magnet, grinding/metallic noises, transmission slipping or failing to engage gears properly, torn or missing internal screens — stop DIY and consult a transmission shop.

- Final practical tips
- Check your Jeep’s service manual or factory spec sheet for the exact fluid spec and any torque values or washer part numbers.
- Keep receipts and labels of the oil you buy so you can confirm spec later.
- If uncertain about any step or if you find abnormal metal debris, have the transmission inspected.

- No further questions.
rteeqp73

NV3550 After 190k...What's inside?? This is the NV3550 transmission out of our 'LS TJ'. We decided to swap it due to the amount of play during shifting and the ...

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Summary: The NV3550 is the manual transmission — it doesn’t have a “cylinder head.” I’m assuming you mean remove/replace the engine cylinder head on a Jeep Wrangler that uses an NV3550 (common on TJ 4.0L engines). Below is a concise, professional step‑by‑step procedure covering separating/supporting the NV3550, removing the head, inspection, reassembly, and common pitfalls. Use the factory service manual (FSM) for bolt torque values, angles, and exact sequences — those values MUST be followed.

Safety first
- Work on a flat level surface, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery cable.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Support vehicle securely on quality jack stands (never rely on a jack alone).
- Use an engine hoist if engine needs lifting; use a transmission jack when supporting/removing the NV3550.
- Drain coolant and engine oil into suitable containers and dispose legally.

Tools and consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2” drives), ratchets, extensions, swivel, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (capable of required torque range) and angle gauge if head bolts are torque‑to‑yield.
- Transmission jack or floor jack with adapter and blocks to support NV3550.
- Engine hoist or support bar (if moving engine or removing motor mounts).
- Screwdrivers, pliers, pry bars.
- Gasket scrapers, razor, brake cleaner or solvent.
- Straightedge and feeler gauges (for head flatness).
- Dial indicator or micrometer (for valve and head measurements if needed).
- Valve spring compressor (if valve work is required).
- Thread chaser or M8/M10 tap (to clean head bolt holes).
- Clutch alignment tool (if you remove clutch).
- Shop manual for torque specs and patterns.
- Replacement head bolts (use new torque‑to‑yield bolts if original are TTY), head gasket set, valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust gaskets, thermostat, coolant, engine oil & filter, possibly camshaft seals/pilot bearing/clutch components as necessary.
- RTV sealant, anti‑seize, assembly lube.
- Shop rags and drip pans.

Parts typically replaced when removing a head
- Head gasket (always).
- Head bolts if torque‑to‑yield (commonly the case) — replace.
- Valve cover gasket.
- Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets if they are disturbed.
- Thermostat, coolant, and often a new oil and filter.
- Inspect clutch and pilot bearing if transmission removal required — replace if worn.
- Any leaking freeze plug or worn valve stem seals (optional depending on condition).

High‑level step‑by‑step (concise)

A. Preparation and access
1. Disconnect battery negative. Remove airbox and intake plumbing for access.
2. Drain coolant and engine oil.
3. Label and disconnect wiring harness connectors on the head (injectors, sensors, coils, etc.). Remove spark plug wires or coil packs.
4. Remove intake manifold/runner assembly as needed for head access. Remove exhaust manifold (loosen, support, remove).
5. Remove accessory drive belts, alternator, A/C compressor (bolt out and set aside without disturbing lines if possible), power steering pump (secure aside), and any components obstructing cylinder head removal.

B. Separating and supporting the NV3550
6. For manual transmissions you must separate the NV3550 from the engine bellhousing to access rear head bolts and to allow head lift. Steps:
- Remove clutch slave cylinder from bellhousing or disconnect hydraulic line and secure out of the way (do NOT allow line to be stressed).
- Mark the relative position of bellhousing to engine for reference.
- Support the transmission with a transmission jack under the case. Secure it so it cannot tip.
- Remove bellhousing bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern. Keep bolts organized by length/location.
- Carefully push the transmission back or lower slightly with the jack to create clearance between input shaft/clutch and engine. Do NOT let transmission hang unsupported by just the jack — it must be firmly supported.
- If the clutch or input shaft will interfere with head removal, remove the transmission far enough to clear the head or remove the clutch assembly (use clutch alignment tool on reassembly). In many cases you only need to separate and retract the trans a few inches.

C. Cylinder head removal
7. Remove rocker cover/valve cover(s).
8. Follow the head bolt removal sequence in FSM — generally remove in several passes in reverse order of tightening, from edges to center. Use a breaker bar or appropriate wrench.
9. Lift off cylinder head. Cylinder head may be heavy — use a hoist/assistant. Beware of hoses/wiring still attached.
10. Remove old head gasket from block and head. Clean mating surfaces thoroughly with non‑metallic scraper and solvent. Do not gouge metal.
11. Inspect block deck and head mating surface for warpage, pitting, corrosion. Use straightedge and feeler gauges. If warpage over FSM spec or cracks present, head machining or replacement is required.

D. Inspection and machine checks
12. Check head for cracks (especially around combustion chambers and between valves), check valve seats and springs. Pressure test if available.
13. Check cylinder head flatness. If needed, machine/cut the head at a reputable machine shop to spec.
14. Check block deck for warpage and surface condition. Clean coolant passages and thread holes; chase threads carefully.
15. Inspect camshaft, lifters, and rockers if exposed. Replace worn parts.
16. Replace head bolts with new ones if required by FSM (commonly torque‑to‑yield).

E. Reassembly (key points)
17. Dry fit new head gasket on block. Ensure correct orientation of locating dowels, oil/coolant passage alignment.
18. Carefully set head on gasket. Rotate camshaft(s) or rocker assembly back into position if removed.
19. Prepare head bolts per FSM: some require initial torque, then angle turns. Follow sequence exactly. Use a calibrated torque wrench and angle gauge when specified.
20. Reinstall intake and exhaust manifolds with new gaskets. Replace thermostat and any disturbed hoses.
21. Reconnect wiring harnesses, sensors, fuel lines, injectors, etc. Replace valve cover gasket and reinstall valve cover.
22. Reposition transmission and align input shaft/clutch with clutch disk. If you removed the clutch, use alignment tool and torque pressure plate bolts evenly.
23. Bolt bellhousing to engine using original pattern and correct torque specs. Reinstall slave cylinder and reconnect hydraulic lines.
24. Reinstall accessories, belts, radiator hoses, coolant, oil and filter. Fill coolant and oil to spec.
25. Bleed cooling system and, if hydraulic clutch, bleed clutch hydraulics.

F. Final checks and break‑in
26. Start engine, check for leaks (coolant, oil, exhaust), abnormal noises. Monitor temperature.
27. After warmup, re‑check head bolt torque if FSM requires (some procedures call for retorque after run‑in).
28. Road test and re‑inspect for leaks and correct operation.

How specific tools are used
- Torque wrench: used to tighten head bolts in specified steps and final torque. If bolts are torque‑to‑yield, you’ll use the torque wrench for the initial/preload steps and then an angle gauge for the final angle turns.
- Angle gauge: attaches to the torque wrench to measure additional degrees of rotation on TTY bolts.
- Transmission jack: supports the NV3550 during bellhousing separation and to move the trans back for clearance; it allows fine controlled movement to disengage input shaft safely.
- Engine hoist: used to lift the cylinder head or the engine if full engine removal is required. Chain to head lifting points if provided; use a spreader bar if necessary to keep head level.
- Straightedge/feeler gauges: to check head and block deck flatness.
- Valve spring compressor: used if you’re removing/inspecting valves or replacing valve stem seals.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not replacing head bolts: many Jeep head bolts are torque‑to‑yield and must be replaced. Reusing TTY bolts risks head gasket failure.
- Improper torque sequence or values: always use FSM sequence and values. Skipping the sequence causes warpage and gasket failure.
- Not supporting the transmission properly: letting the trans hang or fall can damage input shaft, clutch, or bellhousing. Use a transmission jack and secure it.
- Mixing up bolts of different lengths: organize bolts by location. Using wrong bolt length can break internal threads or prevent proper clamping.
- Dirty mating surfaces: any debris or gasket material left can prevent proper sealing — clean thoroughly, don’t gouge mating surfaces.
- Failing to inspect head for cracks/warp: installing a warped or cracked head leads to recurring failures — have machine shop check if beyond minor service limits.
- Not replacing related gaskets and seals: old gaskets commonly lead to leaks; replace intake/exhaust and valve cover gaskets when disturbed.
- Forgetting to bleed systems: air in cooling system or clutch hydraulic system causes overheating or clutch malfunction.
- Reusing old coolant or oil: always replace fluids after head work.

Notes on clutch/transmission specifics
- If clutch is worn or the throwout bearing shows play, replace while transmission is out — it saves repeat labor.
- Mark trans-to-engine position so you can reinstall in same index; some bellhousing dowels/bolt positions are orientation‑sensitive.
- If you must remove the transmission completely, support it with a trans jack, disconnect driveshaft, shift linkage, speedometer cable/drive, wiring, and lower carefully.

Final reminder
Follow the Jeep factory service manual for exact torque values, sequences, and any engine‑specific procedures. If the head is to be resurfaced or valves ground, use a reputable machine shop and recheck all dimensions to FSM limits.

That’s the full procedural outline with tools, how they’re used, safety precautions, and common pitfalls.
rteeqp73