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Perkins 4.107 4.108 4.99 Diesel Engines Workshop Service Repair Manual

Short answer first: Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 are diesel engines and do NOT have an ignition coil/spark ignition system. They use compression ignition with fuel injectors, an injection pump and glow plugs for cold starts. If someone told you “replace the ignition coil” for one of these Perkins engines they meant either (a) on a petrol engine with an ignition coil—see the generic coil procedure below—or (b) more likely a glow‑plug or fuel delivery fault on the Perkins. I’ll give (1) a concise theory of how an ignition coil works (for reference), (2) a clear, ordered generic ignition‑coil replacement procedure, and then (3) the correct Perkins‑specific repair you will most often need (glow‑plug replacement) with theory and ordered steps and an explanation of how the repair fixes the fault.

1) Ignition coil — theory (brief)
- Purpose: convert low battery voltage (~12 V) to the high voltage (thousands of volts) required to jump the spark‑plug gap and ignite an air–fuel mixture in a spark‑ignition engine.
- Structure/function: primary winding (many turns, low voltage) and secondary winding (many more turns) on an iron core. When the primary current is rapidly interrupted, the collapsing magnetic field induces a large voltage in the secondary. The high‑tension lead sends that voltage to the spark plug.
- Fault symptoms when a coil fails: misfire on one or more cylinders, poor performance, rough idle, higher fuel consumption, diagnostic trouble codes for misfire, weak or absent spark. Replacing the coil restores the ability to generate a high‑voltage pulse to the plug, restoring combustion in the affected cylinder(s).

2) Generic ordered procedure — ignition coil replacement (spark‑ignition engines)
Tools & prep: basic hand tools, torque wrench, dielectric grease, multimeter (optional). Safety: disconnect battery negative, work on a cool engine, label wiring.
Steps (in order):
1. Safety: Disconnect battery negative terminal.
2. Access: Remove engine covers, airbox or other components blocking access to the coil(s).
3. Identify/label: If multiple coils/leads, label connectors/leads to avoid mixing.
4. Unplug electrical connector from coil and any ignition lead/HT lead. Release any clip or locking tab.
5. Remove coil fasteners (bolts) and lift coil or coil‑pack straight out. For coil‑on‑plug, gently twist/pull to release from spark plug tip.
6. Inspect: check connectors, boots and spark plug condition. Replace spark plug if suspect.
7. Fit new coil: apply a little dielectric grease inside the boot (if specified), seat coil onto plug or mounting. Install any new seals/insulators supplied.
8. Torque bolts to spec (manufacturer torque); if unknown, snug then follow typical published spec for that engine.
9. Reconnect electrical connector and any leads, ensure clips are secure.
10. Reinstall removed components, reconnect battery negative.
11. Test: start engine, check for misfire codes and verify smooth running.

How this repair fixes the fault:
- A defective coil cannot produce a full‑strength spark; replacement restores the high voltage needed to ignite the mixture so the affected cylinder(s) resume normal combustion, curing misfire and restoring power.

3) Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 — correct diesel components to check and how to replace a glow plug (ordered), with theory and how the repair fixes the fault
Why “ignition coil” is not applicable: these Perkins engines are diesel — combustion is by compression + fuel injection. No spark or ignition coil. The common causes of no-start, rough idle or poor starting on these engines are fuel delivery faults (injectors, pump), air in fuel lines, or faulty glow plugs (cold start). The typical “electrical” replaceable item analogous to an ignition coil for diesels is the glow plug or its controller/relay.

Glow‑plug theory (brief):
- Glow plugs heat the combustion chamber/pre‑combustion chamber before and at start to raise local temperature so injected diesel ignites reliably when cold. A failed glow plug or failed glow relay causes poor cold starting, white or heavy smoke on startup, long cranking, or rough idle until warmed.
- Replacing a faulty glow plug restores pre‑heating, allowing reliable ignition during cranking and preventing misfires on cold starts.

Ordered procedure — glow‑plug replacement (Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99)
Tools & prep: deep socket set sized for glow plugs, ratchet, extension, torque wrench (if possible), anti‑seize (optional, light), small wire brush, multimeter (optional), safety gloves. Safety: battery negative disconnect, engine cooled.
Steps:
1. Safety: Disconnect battery negative terminal.
2. Access: Remove engine top cover/air intake if needed to expose glow‑plug leads and fuel lines. Keep area clean.
3. Label & disconnect: One at a time, disconnect the electrical lead/wire from the glow plug (note orientation). If there is a central connector block, remove its retaining hardware and unplug the individual leads.
4. Measure (optional): With a multimeter, check resistance of suspect glow plug (typical low ohms to a few ohms). Open circuit or very high resistance = bad.
5. Remove glow plug: Use the appropriate deep socket and extension. Turn counterclockwise to remove. Do this one at a time to avoid confusion. If seized, apply penetrating oil and allow time — avoid rounding the hex.
6. Inspect the hole: Clean carbon around the seat with a wire brush cautiously; ensure no debris will fall into cylinder. Use compressed air if available.
7. Fit new glow plug: If manufacturer recommends, apply a light film of anti‑seize on the threads (avoid overuse). Screw in by hand to seat, then tighten to specified torque. If the exact torque is unknown, snug then 1/8–1/4 turn with a small torque — over‑tightening risks breaking the plug. (If uncertain, follow Perkins workshop manual torque.)
8. Reconnect lead: Reattach the electrical connector securely. Replace one plug at a time so wiring remains matched.
9. Repeat for each suspect plug.
10. Reconnect battery negative, reassemble covers.
11. Test: With key, verify glow‑plug light/relay operation then start engine cold. Starting should be faster and with less smoke. Scan for codes or monitor idle.

How replacing glow plugs fixes the fault:
- Fault: cold starting failure, long crank, white/gray smoke, rough initial running — caused by inadequate pre‑heat of the combustion chamber.
- Repair: new glow plugs heat the combustion chamber to the needed temperature for diesel ignition when cranking; fuel ignites reliably, shortening crank time and smoothing initial combustion. That removes cold‑start misfires and heavy smoke caused by unburned fuel.

Other diesel items often mistaken for “ignition” faults
- Injectors: worn/injected poor spray pattern or leaking nozzle causes misfire/rough running and smoke. Replacement or servicing restores atomization and timing of fuel injection.
- Injection pump/timing: worn pump, incorrect pump timing or air in fuel lines causes poor starting and roughness. Repair/bleed restores correct fuel delivery and timing.
- Glow relay/fuse: if all glow plugs are good but glow light doesn’t come on, the relay or wiring may be faulty — replacing the relay or repairing wiring restores power to the plugs.

Quick diagnostic mapping (no fluff)
- Symptom: long crank & lots of white smoke only when cold → suspect glow‑plug or glow relay.
- Symptom: rough idle, misfire on one cylinder, black smoke → suspect injector on that cylinder.
- Symptom: no start at all, cranking but no fuel delivery → suspect injection pump/fuel feed/air in system.

Final note
- Don’t replace an “ignition coil” on these Perkins engines — replace the correct diesel component (glow plug, injector, pump, wiring). If you still need a specific bolt torque or part number for a glow plug or an injector on one of these models, refer to the Perkins workshop manual for exact specs.

No questions asked, as requested.
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