Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools set: sockets (metric), spanners, extensions, ratchet, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (suitable range 10–200 N·m).
- Clutch alignment tool (correct spline size for replacement disc).
- Transmission jack or suitable floor jack with adapter and supports.
- Engine support or second jack to support engine if needed.
- Flywheel locking tool or large screwdriver/steel bar used carefully (protect starter/teeth).
- Screwdrivers, pliers, hammer, punch.
- Pry bar(s) for separating gearbox from engine (use gently).
- Wire brush, brake cleaner or degreaser, lint‑free rags.
- Copper anti-seize or specified threadlocker (check manual).
- High‑temp grease or clutch spline grease (light smear).
- Dial indicator (optional) for flywheel runout check.
- Feeler gauge (optional) for measuring pilot bush clearance.
- Replacement parts (minimum): clutch disc, pressure plate (cover), release (throw‑out) bearing, pilot bush/bearing (if fitted), clutch cover bolts (or new bolts if torque‑to‑yield), gearbox input shaft oil seal (recommended), flywheel bolts (if required by manual).

Safety & preparation
- Work on level ground, wheel chocks, parking brake on.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Allow engine/gearbox to cool.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots.
- Use proper jacks and stands; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Support gearbox with a transmission jack before removing mounting bolts.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points; do not work under unsupported transmission.

Overview of procedure (what you will do)
1. Remove drivetrain components and propshaft to access gearbox.
2. Support gearbox and engine, unbolt gearbox from engine/ bellhousing.
3. Separate gearbox and move it back enough to access clutch assembly (do not let it hang unsupported).
4. Remove clutch cover and disc, inspect flywheel, replace disc/pressure plate/release bearing and pilot bush as required.
5. Refit clutch using alignment tool, torque bolts in star pattern, reassemble gearbox and ancillary parts, adjust clutch linkages, and test.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1. Vehicle & components removal
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Drain gearbox oil if needed and remove propshaft/drive shafts to clear access.
- Label and disconnect gear selector linkages, speedo cable, electrical connectors, starter motor wires, hydraulic lines (cap to prevent contamination).
- Remove starter motor to clear bellhousing access (store bolts/parts safely).
- Support engine if gearbox removal will change engine support (use engine support or jack under oil pan with wood block).

2. Support gearbox
- Place a transmission jack or floor jack with a wooden block under the gearbox/transmission.
- Take the weight on the jack; ensure gearbox is stable.
- Remove gearbox support mounts (crossmember) and then the gearbox-to-engine mounting bolts.

3. Separate gearbox from engine
- Loosen gearbox-to-engine bolts progressively in a cross pattern.
- Use a pry bar gently at the bellhousing seam if stuck—avoid prying on housing bosses or twisting gearbox.
- Once the bellhousing separates, slide gearbox rearwards on input shaft until it clears the clutch assembly. Do not overstress splines.

4. Remove clutch assembly
- Before removing, mark relationship/clocking between flywheel and crank for reference if flywheel removal is needed.
- Remove pressure plate bolts evenly in a star/cross sequence a few turns at a time to avoid warping; then remove fully.
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Note orientation of the disc (which side faces the flywheel; usually marked).

5. Inspect flywheel & related parts
- Clean flywheel surface with brake cleaner; check for heat spots, scoring, deep grooves or cracks. If glazing or minor scoring, the flywheel can be machined/resurfaced. If deep damage or cracks, replace.
- Check flywheel runout with a dial indicator if available; excessive runout requires correction.
- Inspect pilot bush/bearing (in crankshaft pilot). Replace if worn. Measure bore and pilot for correct fit.
- Inspect input shaft splines, gearbox input seal and replace seal and/or worn splines as required.

6. Replace release (throw‑out) bearing & pivot
- Remove old release bearing from clutch fork or collar; inspect clutch fork pivot and replace any worn pivot ball/guide.
- Fit new release bearing to fork. Do not smear grease on bearing face—only on pivot points as specified.

7. Fit new clutch disc & pressure plate
- Clean contact surfaces (no oil or grease on friction surfaces).
- Use the alignment tool: insert tool through new clutch disc into the pilot bore (or pilot bush) so disc is centered on crankshaft pilot. The tool simulates the gearbox input shaft and keeps the disc perfectly concentric.
- Position pressure plate over disc and start all pressure plate bolts by hand.
- Tighten bolts progressively in a star pattern in stages (for example 1/3 turn increments) to final torque. If you don’t have exact torque spec for your application, tighten progressively and evenly; consult the workshop manual for the Perkins 4.107/4.108/4.99 specific torque values. Typical final torque for M8 bolts is in the 20–40 N·m range — verify before final.
- Remove alignment tool; the disc should remain centered.

8. Reassemble gearbox to engine
- Inspect and, if necessary, renew gearbox input seal before sliding gearbox forward.
- Align gearbox input shaft with clutch disc splines; use careful jack control to avoid damaging crank seal.
- Slide gearbox bellhousing forward until mating faces are flush and bolt holes align. Start all bellhousing bolts by hand.
- Torque bellhousing/gearbox-to-engine bolts in specified sequence to factory torque.

9. Refit ancillary parts
- Reinstall starter motor, propshafts, linkages, speedo cable, hydraulic lines, and crossmember.
- Refill gearbox oil to specified level/type.
- Reconnect battery.

10. Adjust & test
- Adjust clutch pedal free play (or bleed hydraulic clutch) per specifications for correct engagement.
- Check for smooth clutch operation: engine running, in neutral, move through gears slowly and test drive with careful clutch engagement.
- After first road test, re‑check torque on critical bolts and recheck fluid levels.

How the alignment tool is used (detail)
- Choose an alignment tool that matches the spline count/diameter of the new clutch disc and the pilot bore.
- Insert the tool from the gearbox side through the pressure plate and into the pilot bore so it seats solidly. The tool centers the disc on the crankshaft axis and holds it there while you tighten the pressure plate bolts.
- Tighten bolts gradually and evenly; the alignment tool stays in place until final torque applied. Remove the tool and it should slide freely into the disc splines—confirm engagement by manually turning the input shaft (or by finger) before attempting gearbox refit.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing throw‑out bearing/pilot bush: replaces these with the clutch kit. Reusing often leads to premature failure.
- Contaminating the friction surfaces: never touch disc surfaces with oily hands, avoid brake cleaner residues. Keep clean rags and use gloves.
- Incorrect torque or uneven tightening: tightening in sequence is critical to avoid warped pressure plates and uneven wear.
- Not using alignment tool: leads to misalignment, difficult gearbox refit, clutch chatter or premature wear.
- Damaged crankshaft seal when sliding gearbox: ensure gearbox is aligned and supported; do not lever on seal lip.
- Reusing old bolts that are torque‑to‑yield: replace where recommended and use threadlocker where instructed.
- Not checking flywheel condition or runout: resurfacing may be required; failure to do so transfers heat and causes slippage/inhomogeneous wear.
- Over‑greasing splines or getting grease on disc: only a light smear inside splines; do not get grease on disc faces.
- Not supporting the gearbox properly: dropping gearbox will damage bellhousing and injury.

Parts typically required for a full job
- Clutch kit: disc + pressure plate + release bearing (often sold as a комплект).
- Pilot bush/pilot bearing (if fitted in crankshaft).
- Flywheel bolts or clutch cover bolts if manufacturer specifies replacement.
- Gearbox input seal.
- Clutch fork pivot (if worn) and associated grease.

Final checks
- Verify clutch pedal free play and engagement point.
- Road test gently, listening for abnormal noises and checking for slipping or judder.
- Re‑torque bolts after 100–200 miles if specified by manual.
- If any slipping/clutch judder occurs, recheck flywheel surface, disc orientation and torque sequence.

Notes & references
- These Perkins 4.107/4.108/4.99 engines use conventional single‑plate dry clutches; the overall sequence above applies. Always verify torque values and specific clearances in the dedicated Perkins or vehicle workshop manual before final tightening.
- Do not attempt without the necessary lifting/support equipment. Follow safety steps; shop manual is authoritative for torque and adjustment specs.

Done.
rteeqp73

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