Tools & consumables
- Metric socket & spanner set (up to 19 mm), swivel/extension bars, ratchet, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range to at least 120 Nm)
- Screwdrivers, pry bar, rubber mallet
- Harmonic balancer / crank pulley holding tool and puller
- Flywheel / ring gear locking tool or turning tool (to hold engine at TDC)
- Seal puller and seal driver (correct diameter for front crank seal)
- Gasket scraper & wire brush; brake cleaner or solvent; lint‑free rags
- Engine support or jack + wooden pad (if lifting engine/transmission required)
- Drain pan, funnel, gloves, safety glasses
- New timing cover gasket (or gasket maker/RTV if specified), front crank oil seal (Perkins front seal for 4.107/4.108/4.99), replacement cover bolts if damaged, threadlocker (medium)
- Anti‑seize (optional), light engine oil for seal lubrication
- Replacement timing gears/chain if excessive wear found (see inspection notes)

Safety precautions (non‑negotiable)
- Work on a level surface with parking brake on and wheels chocked.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Drain engine oil and coolant into appropriate containers; avoid spills.
- Use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone under vehicle.
- Support the engine if engine mounts or transmission will be disturbed.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; keep loose clothing/jewellery away from rotating parts.

Summary: what this procedure does
Remove the front timing cover to inspect/replace the front crankshaft oil seal and timing components, then reinstall the cover with a new gasket/seal. Important to preserve timing alignment marks and avoid introducing dirt/metal into the timing gears.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Drain engine oil and coolant to below the level of the timing cover if cover overlaps water passages. (On many Perkins 4‑series the cover seals oil; coolant may be behind water pump — drain coolant if removing water pump.)
- Remove fan, fan shroud, fan belt(s), alternator/interfering accessories so you can access the front of the engine.
- If engine has a viscous fan or small cooling fan, remove it with proper tool.

2) Establish engine position (mark timing)
- Rotate engine by turning crank pulley clockwise until engine is at TDC on No.1 — confirm using flywheel timing mark aligned with inspection hole or timing mark on gear. Use a turning tool in the flywheel or a breaker bar on the crank to rotate.
- Mark cam and crank timing gear positions relative to each other with paint/marker or scribe so you can confirm reassembly timing. Photograph for reference.
- Lock flywheel if available while you work to prevent rotation.

3) Remove crank pulley / harmonic balancer
- Use a crank holding tool on the flywheel or jam the ring gear with a locking pin to hold the crank.
- Remove the crank pulley bolt (impact gun helps) then use the harmonic balancer/ pulley puller to pull off the crank pulley. Do not pry on it — risk damage.
- Keep pulley and keys safe.

4) Remove ancillary front components and timing cover fasteners
- Remove any timing cover-mounted parts (water pump flange, thermostat housing, heater pipe brackets, etc.).
- Remove all timing cover bolts in a crisscross fashion. Keep bolts sorted by length/location.
- Gently pry the cover free. If corroded, use a thin blade and avoid gouging the mating surfaces. Note: cover may be dowelled; lift straight off.

5) Inspect timing components
- With cover removed, inspect timing gears/chain for wear: broken or chipped teeth, excessive endplay, unusual noise, chain elongation.
- Check camshaft and crankshaft gear alignment marks; confirm the engine is still at TDC.
- If gears/chain show wear, plan to replace the timing set. Replace in accordance with Perkins manual — do not reuse worn gears/chain.

6) Remove and replace front crank oil seal
- Use seal puller to remove old crank seal from timing cover or block (depending where seal sits). Take care not to scratch the crank snout.
- Clean seal bore thoroughly. Remove old gasket material from cover and block, taking care not to gouge surfaces.
- Lightly oil the sealing lip of the new crank seal with engine oil. Use the correct diameter seal driver or a socket with same outer diameter as seal to seat it squarely. Drive the seal flush with the cover/block face — do not cock it. Ensure the sealing lip faces outward (toward oil) as per seal orientation.
- Inspect crankshaft snout for nicks or burrs; polish lightly if needed.

7) Fit new timing cover gasket / sealant
- If a paper/cork gasket is supplied, fit it dry or with light oil as manufacturer's instruction. If using RTV, apply a thin continuous bead at specified locations, not full face unless manual directs.
- Use new dowel pins if original are damaged. Ensure alignment dowels are present to seat the cover squarely.

8) Reinstall timing cover
- Align cover onto dowels and ease it onto the block. Do not force; ensure gasket stays in place.
- Start bolts by hand in a crisscross pattern. Tighten gradually to specified torque sequence.
- Torque bolts to the Perkins specification (refer to workshop manual). If manual not available, tighten progressively and evenly — typical small cover bolts are low torque (10–25 Nm), but confirmation in factory manual is required.

9) Reinstall crank pulley / harmonic balancer
- Clean crank snout and keyway. Replace key if distorted.
- Refit pulley; hand‑tighten the crank bolt, then torque to the specified torque (use torque wrench). If a threadlocker was used on central bolt in manual, follow specs.

10) Reassemble accessories, refill fluids
- Refit fan, belts, alternator, water pump, thermostat housings, and any removed brackets. Replace any O‑rings that were disturbed.
- Refill engine oil and coolant to correct levels.
- Reconnect negative battery.

11) Start and verify
- Prime if required, crank engine and listen for unusual noises. Check for leaks at the cover and crank seal.
- After warm‑up, shut off and re‑check bolt torque and fluid levels. Road test if applicable and re‑inspect.

How the specific tools are used (brief)
- Pulley/harmonic balancer puller: threads onto the pulley hub and draws the pulley straight off the crank snout. Use slowly and evenly.
- Crank holding/flywheel lock: prevents engine rotation while removing crank bolt; use to avoid damaging starter or starter teeth.
- Seal puller: hook under old seal lip and lever out; use caution not to gouge bore.
- Seal driver/socket: presses seal evenly into bore; use light blows with a mallet until flush.
- Torque wrench: final tightening of bolts to correct torque values to prevent leaks and distortion.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Timing cover gasket (always replace)
- Front crankshaft oil seal (always replace when cover removed)
- Cover bolts/studs (replace if corroded or stretched)
- Dowel pins (if worn)
- Timing chain/gears or set if wear shown (recommended inspection and replacement if any wear)
- Water pump gasket/O‑rings if removed
- RTV or gasket maker (if manual specifies)

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Losing timing alignment: mark and photograph before disassembly; lock flywheel at TDC.
- Damaging crank snout or seal bore when removing/installing seal: use proper puller and driver; do not pry with screwdrivers.
- Reusing a damaged gasket or old seal: always fit new gasket and seal.
- Wrong seal orientation: confirm lip faces oil; installing backwards causes immediate leak.
- Over‑torquing cover bolts: can crack cover or warp mating surfaces — use correct torque and sequence.
- Not replacing worn timing components: reusing a stretched chain or worn gears will cause premature failure and may ruin a new seal.
- Allowing dirt/metal particles into timing area: cover exposed timing components; clean thoroughly before reassembly.
- Failing to support engine if mounts removed: causes misalignment and possible injury.

Notes & final checks
- Always refer to the Perkins workshop manual for exact torque values and any engine‑specific notes (e.g., RTV application points). If you don’t have the manual, obtain the factory spec sheet before final torques.
- If timing gears/chain are replaced, perform correct timing alignment procedure and torqueing of cam/crank gear bolts per manual.
- After first run, re‑check for leaks and retorque critical bolts as specified by manual (some fasteners require re‑check after heat cycles).

End.
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Bottom line first: I’ll give a single ordered workshop workflow that covers diagnosis, common faults, and step‑by‑step repair actions for the kinds of transmissions paired with small Perkins 4.99 / 4.107 / 4.108 engines (small tractor/industrial gearboxes and small powershift/automated boxes). For each action I’ll state the underlying theory and exactly how that repair cures the fault. No extras.

Safety and preparation
1) Safety and documentation
- Action: Park on level ground, disconnect battery, prop up vehicle, secure load. Obtain the machine’s transmission schematic and any service limits/specs.
- Theory / why: Prevents accidental startup and load; service manual specs give tolerances (clearances, torques) that determine whether parts are within life. Repair without specs causes rework or catastrophic failure.

2) Gather tools, fluids, and parts
- Action: Pressure gauge kit, dial indicator, bearing pullers, seal drivers, torque wrench, cleaning solvent, correct grade transmission fluid, replacement seals, gaskets, bearings, clutches (as required), and new filter.
- Theory: Proper tools and consumables are required to measure wear and to restore hydraulic pressures and mechanical clearances to spec. Wrong fluid or worn parts leave the same symptoms.

Initial symptom diagnosis (before teardown)
3) Record operational symptoms and basic checks
- Action: Note symptoms (slipping, harsh shifting, no drive, noise, leaks, overheating); run a static/drive test to reproduce. Check fluid level and color; inspect for external leaks; check linkage/cable travel and adjustment; check clutch pedal free play (if combined).
- Theory: Symptoms localize faults: low fluid → slipping/overheating; whining → pump or bearing; clunking → broken gear or dog teeth; no drive but engine revs → torque converter/clutch or gearbox internals. Fluid level and condition provide quick diagnostic evidence (burnt fluid → clutch/overheat; metal particles → internal wear).

4) Hydraulic pressure test (for powershift/automatic)
- Action: Install line-pressure gauge at transmission test port, run engine at specified RPM, check line and apply pressures against manual specs (idle, apply, shift pressures).
- Theory: Automatic/powershift controls rely on hydraulic pressure. Low pressure from worn pump or leaks causes slipping, slow or no shifts. Measuring pressure separates hydraulic control failure from mechanical failure.

How each repair fixes faults: if line pressure low and pump worn, replacing pump or rebuilding pump restores pressure so clutches and servos apply properly; if pressures low only under load, check internal leakage (worn bores or seals) and replace seals or valve body components.

Diagnosis leading to teardown
5) Fluid/filter change and magnetic plug inspection
- Action: Drain fluid into a clean container, inspect for metal flakes, clutch material, or burnt smell. Replace filter and pan gasket.
- Theory: Metal particles or friction material in the pan identify which friction packs or gears are failing. Fresh fluid/test after filter change can temporarily restore function if contamination/clogging was the only problem.

6) External linkage and control verification
- Action: Verify gear selector/synchronizer engagement, shift rails, detents, and neutral safety switches. Repair or replace worn cables/rods and bushings.
- Theory: Mechanical linkage faults can mimic internal transmission faults. Fixing play or misalignment ensures intended gear selection and correct engagement timing.

Planned teardown (ordered)
7) Remove transmission from machine safely
- Action: Support engine/transmission, remove drive shafts/propshaft, disconnect hydraulics, electrical, and linkages, unbolt transmission from bellhousing and engine, lower on transmission jack.
- Theory: Provides safe access to internals for inspection and repair.

8) External housing and accessory removal; document everything
- Action: Remove oil pan, external covers, detent assembly, shift rails, hydraulic control block (if removable). Take photos/mark parts orientation.
- Theory: Documentation and correct orientation are essential for correct reassembly; many faults come from incorrect reassembly.

9) Inspect valve body and solenoids (if present)
- Action: Remove valve body, clean with solvent, inspect for scoring in valve bores, check valves move freely, inspect gaskets/filters, test solenoids for proper resistance and operation.
- Theory: Valve body controls hydraulic timing/pressure. Sticky valves or failed solenoids cause harsh/late/no shifts. Cleaning and replacing worn valve body bores or seals restores metering and timing of pressure to clutches.

10) Inspect torque converter (if automatic/powershift uses one)
- Action: Remove converter, check for clutch plate contamination, smell of burnt friction, excessive freeplay, or loose turbine shaft bearings.
- Theory: Torque converter transmits engine torque and multiplies torque at low speeds. Failed converter clutches or bearings cause shuddering, slipping, or no drive. Rebuild/replace restores coupling and torque transfer.

11) Split gearbox/housing and strip internals
- Action: Separate main case halves and access input/output shafts, gearsets, planetaries or clutch packs. Keep sequence notes.
- Theory: Direct access allows measurement and inspection of gear teeth, bearings, shafts, splines, synchros, dog rings, bushings, and clutches to find wear points.

Systematic inspection and measurement
12) Inspect gears, synchromesh, dog teeth, and hubs
- Action: Look for chipped/broken teeth, scored surfaces, galling, excessive wear, or heat discoloration. Check synchro rings for glazing or wear, check gear runout and backlash with dial indicator.
- Theory: Worn or broken gear teeth and failed synchros cause grinding and inability to engage gears. Measuring backlash and checking tooth contact patterns locate excessive wear and improper preload. Replacing damaged gears/synchros restores positive engagement and reduces noise/gear slip.

13) Inspect bearings, races, and bushings
- Action: Check radial and axial play; rotate bearings by hand to feel roughness; inspect races for pitting and discoloration.
- Theory: Bearings support shaft alignment. Worn bearings allow shaft misalignment, gear mis-contacts, and increased load on teeth and synchronizers leading to noise and premature wear. Replacing bearings restores correct alignment and clearances.

14) Measure shaft endfloat, splines, and keyways
- Action: Use dial indicator to measure endfloat and spline wear; compare to service limits; inspect keyways for deformation.
- Theory: Excessive endfloat causes lash and clunk when load changes; worn splines cause drive slippage and vibration. Correcting endfloat and replacing splines or using new shafts cures such faults.

15) Inspect friction/clutch packs, steels and separator plates
- Action: Measure friction material thickness, check steels for warpage or glazing, inspect clutch hub teeth.
- Theory: Clutch pack slippage is a common cause of loss of drive/overheating. Replacing friction disks and resurfacing or replacing steels increases friction torque capacity and fixes slipping.

16) Inspect hydraulic servos and pistons
- Action: Remove apply pistons, inspect bores and seals; check for scoring and internal leakage.
- Theory: Servo piston leakage reduces apply pressure and causes slipping or delayed shifts. Replacing seals and honing or replacing pistons/bore restores seal and apply pressure.

Repair actions and how they fix faults
17) Replace worn bearings, gears, shafts, clutches, seals, and gaskets
- Action: Replace components that exceed wear limits. Use new bearings, seals, and friction materials; fit with correct shims where required.
- Theory: Restoring parts to within tolerance removes internal leakage paths, restores tooth geometry, reestablishes preload and clearances, and returns friction capacity. This eliminates slipping, noise, and unpredictable shifts.

18) Rebuild or replace hydraulic pump and valve body components if pressure low
- Action: If pump wear or internal leakage is detected, replace pump or pump components; rebuild valve body bores using repair sleeves or replace valve body if bores are badly scored.
- Theory: Pump provides system flow and pressure; worn pump reduces available pressure. Rebuilding pump or valve body restores required pressures for correct clutch/servo operation and shift timing.

19) Recondition or replace torque converter
- Action: Replace contaminated/burnt torque converter components or replace complete converter if clutch friction or stator issues are found.
- Theory: A healthy converter transmits torque without slip. Rebuild eliminates converter-caused shudder and restores drive.

20) Correct clearances and gear pattern, set preloads and shims
- Action: Assemble gearsets, fit bearings to correct preload by selecting shims and measuring endfloat/axial play to manual specs. Set backlash and contact pattern where required.
- Theory: Precise preload/backlash ensures gears engage evenly across tooth faces, reduces stress and noise, and ensures bearings carry intended loads. Incorrect preload causes bearing failure and gear tooth damage.

21) Clean, replace small parts, and assemble valve body with new gaskets/filters
- Action: Replace valve body gaskets, screen filters, and any disposable parts. Reassemble valves in correct order; test-solenoids if applicable.
- Theory: Clean metering and fresh filters prevent re-contamination and ensure hydraulic circuits function as designed.

Reassembly and final adjustments
22) Reassemble transmission, respecting torques and clean surfaces
- Action: Use correct torque sequences; install new pan gasket and filter; refill with specified fluid to required level.
- Theory: Proper torques keep housing distortion minimal and gaskets sealed; correct fluid and level are vital for lubrication, cooling, and hydraulic actuation.

23) Bench test (if possible) and stall/line pressure verification
- Action: Rotate transmission by hand to verify gear engagement; run engine in neutral and test line pressures and apply pressures again.
- Theory: Confirms hydraulic and mechanical systems respond before connecting driveline; ensures pre-installation verification.

24) Reinstall transmission, connect linkage and driveline, run-in procedure
- Action: Reconnect everything, perform low-load initial test runs, cycle through gears, watch temperatures and fluid condition. Follow break-in for new clutches (gentle duty for first hours).
- Theory: Break-in allows friction materials to mate and seating to stabilize. Observing temperature/pressure confirms repair success.

How each repair step fixes the specific common faults (quick mapping)
- Slipping under load: Causes — worn clutch packs, contaminated/burnt fluid, low line pressure, worn pump, leaking servos. Fix — replace friction plates/steels, change fluid/filter, rebuild pump, replace seals/pistons, verify pressure.
- Harsh/late shifts or no shifts: Causes — sticky valves, bad solenoids, valve body leakage, poor pressure, damaged shift mechanism. Fix — clean/repair valve body, replace solenoids, repair hydraulic leaks, adjust linkages.
- Grinding into gear or inability to select gear: Causes — worn synchros/dog teeth, misadjusted linkage, damaged shift rails. Fix — replace synchro rings or dog teeth, correct geometry/linkage.
- Noise (whine or growl): Causes — worn bearings, pump cavitation, incorrect preload/backlash. Fix — replace bearings, repair pump, set proper preload and backlash.
- Overheating / burnt fluid: Causes — slipping clutches, low fluid, contamination. Fix — replace friction packs, clean cooling circuit, change fluid, address cause of slip.
- Fluid loss/leaks: Causes — failed seals/gaskets, cracked housings, loose bolts. Fix — replace seals/gaskets, repair/replace housings, torque bolts to spec.

Practical checkpoints and pitfalls
- Always compare wear measurements to service limits — do not assume appearance equals replaceable condition.
- Cleanliness is critical: hydraulic circuits are sensitive to particles; contamination causes re-failure.
- Use correct fluid type and capacity: wrong viscosity or additive package destroys friction materials and valve metering.
- Document shim stacks and torque patterns during disassembly so reassembly sets preloads correctly.
- Don’t re-use seals, friction plates, or gaskets that are designated single-use.

Summary checklist (ordered)
1. Safety, manuals, tools. 2. Record symptoms & basic tests (fluid, external checks). 3. Pressure test hydraulic system. 4. Drain fluid, inspect pan. 5. Check linkage/clutch. 6. Remove transmission; photograph/label. 7. Inspect valve body & pump; test solenoids. 8. Remove torque converter (if present) and inspect. 9. Split case; inspect gears, bearings, clutches, shafts. 10. Measure against service limits. 11. Replace worn components (bearings, seals, clutches, gears). 12. Rebuild pump/valve body if needed. 13. Reassemble with correct shims, torques, and clearances. 14. Reinstall, refill, bench/pressure test. 15. Road test and break-in; verify symptoms cleared.

That is the ordered workshop repair path plus the theory behind each action and how those repairs cure the underlying faults.
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