- Quick note before starting
- Work safely: eye protection, gloves, steel-toe boots, good lighting, ventilation, and stable vehicle support (axle stands or lift).
- Get the official Perkins workshop manual for the exact gearbox model and for torque and clearance specifications — those numbers are critical and specific to each gearbox variant.

- Basic tools (what they are, how to use them)
- Combination spanners and socket set (metric sizes covering 8–32 mm)
- Used to remove external bolts, gearbox mountings, flanges and housings. Use the correct size to avoid rounding nuts. Use a breaker bar for tight bolts and a torque wrench to tighten to spec on reassembly.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range 5–200 Nm or 5–150 ft·lb depending on tasks)
- Used to tighten fasteners to specified torque. Always set the wrench to the required value and tighten smoothly until it clicks; recheck critical fasteners after initial run-in.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips, large and small)
- For small fasteners, plugs, covers and prying soft parts. Use proper tip to avoid damage.
- Pliers (combination pliers, long-nose, circlip pliers internal/external)
- Grip and remove clips/retainers. Circlip pliers are essential to remove/install snap rings on shafts.
- Hammer and soft-face mallet (ball-peen and rubber or nylon mallet)
- For light persuasion of parts. Use a soft mallet to avoid damaging gears or cases.
- Drift punches and brass/nylon drift set
- For driving out roll pins, dowels and bearings without damaging surfaces.
- Pry bars and large flat lever
- For separating mating housings and freeing stubborn parts. Use gently to avoid cracking castings.
- Feeler gauges
- Check clearances and shim thickness where needed.
- Vernier caliper (0–150 mm or 0–6 in)
- Measure shaft diameters, groove widths, and basic dimensions accurately.
- Micrometer (0–25 mm or 0–1 in) and outside micrometer set (if possible)
- Measure journal diameters, bearing journals, and wear limits precisely.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- Measure endfloat/endplay of shafts and backlash between gears. Essential for reassembly checks.
- Wire brush and gasket scraper
- Clean mating surfaces and remove old gaskets/sealant.
- Parts trays and labeling materials
- Keep fasteners and components organized and labelled during disassembly.
- Drain pan and fluid pump
- Catch old gearbox oil and refill clean oil accurately.

- Additional or specialist tools (why required, how to use)
- Bearing puller / 3-jaw puller
- Required to remove pressed-on bearings and gears. Fit jaws behind the bearing lip, center the forcing screw on shaft end, and slowly extract. Use penetrating oil first if seized.
- Hydraulic or arbor press (1–5 tonne bench press)
- Required to press bearings, bushes and gears on/off shafts without damage. Support the shaft on V-blocks and apply steady pressure; use appropriate adapter to press evenly.
- Bearing driver / tube set or heat source (induction heater or oil/heat method)
- To install bearings squarely. Heat the outer race lightly (use oil bath or induction heater) to expand it for sliding onto shaft; never heat inner race or grease-containing bearings. Alternatively, use a driver that only contacts the race being driven.
- Puller for speedometer drive / flange puller
- For removing stubborn flanges without damage.
- Seal driver set
- To install lip seals evenly without cutting the seal lip.
- Gearbox jack or engine jack with adaptor
- For safe removal/installation of gearbox from vehicle; supports heavy weight and allows alignment.
- Spiral retaining ring pliers (internal & external)
- For removing/installing circlips in grooves; essential to prevent damage to circlip grooves.
- Plastigage (or tapered bearing gauge) and depth micrometer
- For checking bearing clearances and crush; useful if dial gauge measurement not enough.
- Thread locker and gasket/sealant applicator
- For securing bolts that require it and sealing split cases or covers.

- Preparatory steps (what to do first)
- Drain gearbox oil into a pan and dispose of responsibly.
- Remove ancillary components that obstruct gearbox removal: linkages, clutch linkage or hydraulics, propshaft, exhaust hangers as required.
- Support the gearbox with a jack, remove mounting bolts and lower gearbox safely.
- Label every linkage and electrical connector; take photos as reference.

- Disassembly sequence (how to strip the gearbox)
- Clean exterior to avoid dirt ingress when opening.
- Remove cover plates, speedo drive, selector rods and external shifting parts using correct pliers and sockets.
- Remove end covers and split the case using prybars and a gasket scraper; work evenly to avoid case distortion.
- Remove shafts (mainshaft, layshaft/cluster, input shaft) in sequence, noting positions and orientation. Use bearing puller or press if bearings are pressed on.
- Remove bearings, bushes, spacers, thrust washers and circlips; keep them ordered and labelled.
- Photograph each stage and keep a diagram or parts layout to aid reassembly.
- Inspect synchronizers (if fitted), forks, detent balls/springs and selectors.

- Inspection and measurement (what to look for, acceptance criteria)
- Gears
- Check teeth for pitting, broken teeth, heavy scoring, chipped edges or rounded teeth. Replace any gear with visible damage or excessive wear.
- Bearing journals and shaft diameters
- Use a micrometer to measure journal diameters and compare to workshop limits. Rough or worn journals produce noise and vibration — replace or regrind shafts if out of spec.
- Bearings
- Spin bearings by hand; feel for roughness, grit or play. Replace bearings that are noisy, rough, have axial/radial play or show race pitting.
- Bushes and thrust washers
- Measure bore sizes; heavily oval or excessive clearance indicates replacement. Excessive axial play indicates worn thrusts.
- Synchronizers and cones
- Look for worn friction surfaces, heat damage, or broken springs. Replace worn friction rings or whole synchronizer assemblies.
- Seals and gaskets
- Replace all seals and gaskets; they are inexpensive compared to the labor.
- Case mating faces and covers
- Check for cracks, warped surfaces or damaged threads. Replace or repair as needed.
- Backlash and runout
- Check gear backlash with dial indicator; excessive backlash indicates worn gears or improper assembly shims.
- Endplay (axial play)
- Check with dial gauge; if beyond spec adjust shims or replace worn thrust washers.

- Common replacement parts and why they’re needed
- Bearings (tapered roller and deep groove)
- Wear, roughness, play, noise and race pitting are common causes to replace bearings. Bearings often fail after long service and must be replaced to restore quiet operation.
- Oil seals and gaskets
- Always replace when gearbox is opened to prevent leaks. Lip seals harden and leak over time.
- Synchronizer rings and friction inserts
- Wear causes slow or crunching shifts; replace synchronizer rings if engagement is not crisp.
- Selector forks and bushes
- Worn forks or worn bushings allow poor gear selection; replace if worn or bent.
- Thrust washers and spacers
- Excessive axial play or metal fatigue requires replacement to restore correct end float.
- Gears (individual gear wheels or shaft assemblies)
- Replace if gear teeth are chipped, excessively worn or have pitting. Often sold as sets or as main/lay gear replacements.
- Shafts (mainshaft/layshaft/input shaft) or regrinding service
- Replace or regrind if journals are scored or undersize. Replacing shafts may be required when wear is beyond regrinding limits.
- Speedo drive and drive gear
- Worn drive teeth or shafts cause inaccurate speedo; replace if damaged.
- Detent springs/balls and shift mechanism parts
- Weak or broken detents cause sloppy shifting; replace for correct feel.

- Reassembly (important how-to and tool use)
- Clean all parts thoroughly with solvent and dry. Use lint-free cloths.
- Fit new bearings using a press or appropriate driver; press on the correct race face only to avoid race damage.
- Install seals with a seal driver to avoid cutting the lip; light coat of oil on lip before assembly.
- Fit gears and shafts in the correct order and orientation as photographed/labelled during disassembly.
- Use a dial indicator to set backlash and tooth contact pattern; adjust shims or spacers to achieve workshop-specified backlash.
- Set endfloat/endplay with shims or thrust washers and verify with dial indicator. Adjust until within manual spec.
- Fit synchronizers and confirm smooth sliding engagement; check that springs/dogs are correctly orientated.
- Refit case halves with fresh sealant or gasket; torque case bolts to spec in even pattern to avoid distortion.
- Reattach covers, selector linkages and other external parts, using threadlocker where specified and torque wrench to spec.

- Testing after assembly (how to check)
- Rotate gearbox by hand through all gears to confirm smooth engagement and no binding.
- Check gear selection and neutral positions.
- Refit gearbox to vehicle using gearbox jack and align input shaft carefully into clutch; use torque wrench on mountings to spec.
- Refill with correct grade and quantity of gearbox oil (consult manual).
- Run engine at idle, cycle through gears with vehicle stationary (clutch depressed) to check for leaks and unusual noises.
- Road test gently, re-torque mounts after initial run, and recheck oil level.

- Troubleshoot common problems post-rebuild
- Grinding on gear engagement: check synchronizer fit, cone wear, correct assembly of forks, and endplay.
- Whine/noise under load: check bearings, gear mesh pattern and backlash.
- Leaks: ensure correct seals, correct torque on cover bolts, and clean mating surfaces.

- Fluid and break-in
- Use correct gearbox oil (viscosity and type per manual). Some older gearboxes require gear oils with specific additives.
- Run-in: avoid heavy loads in first 100–200 km; change oil after first short service interval if recommended to remove break-in debris.

- Safety and tips for a beginner
- Do not work under a gearbox supported only by a jack; use stands.
- Label and photograph everything; gearboxes are assemblies where orientation matters.
- Replace small inexpensive items (seals, bearings, circlips) rather than risking a re-teardown.
- If lacking a press or bearing puller, have a machine shop do the press-fit operations; it’s safer than improvised methods.
- If you are unsure about measurement interpretation (micrometer/dial gauge), take parts to a specialist for measurement or fitting.

- Final checklist of likely parts to buy before starting
- Full gasket/seal kit for the gearbox
- Bearing kit for main/lay/input shafts
- Synchronizer rings (if applied) or friction inserts
- Selector fork bushings and detent springs/balls
- Thrust washers and spacers as per manual
- Replacement gears or shafts only if inspection shows damage
- Correct grade gearbox oil

- Final caution
- Reconditioning a gearbox requires precise measurement and correct assembly. Use specialist machine/press services where needed. Follow the workshop manual specifications for torques and clearances exactly.
rteeqp73

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