Tools & materials
- Correct brake fluid for the vehicle (manufacturer spec — usually DOT 3 or DOT 4). Buy fresh, unopened bottle.
- Brake bleeder tool: recommended — pressure bleeder (preferred) or hand vacuum bleeder. Alternative: two-person pedal-bleed kit.
- Clear hose (vinyl) and collection bottle (to see bubbles/old fluid).
- Combination spanner set (8, 10, 11, 12 mm commonly) for bleed nipples and banjo bolts.
- Turkey baster or large syringe to remove old fluid from master cylinder reservoir.
- Clean lint-free rags and a small brush.
- Gloves (nitrile), safety glasses.
- Jack, axle stands or ramps, wheel chocks.
- Torque wrench (for re-tightening wheels / banjo bolts to spec).
- New crush washers/banjo washers and possibly replacement bleed nipples if corroded (one set per caliper/ wheel cylinder if needed).
- Container for used brake fluid (hazardous waste disposal).

Safety & precautions — read first
- Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and skin. Use gloves and eye protection. Wipe any spill immediately and wash paint with water.
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels and secure on stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Never mix DOT types (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5 are not interchangeable). Use only manufacturer-specified fluid.
- Keep the reservoir capped except when adding fluid; don’t let it run dry — air into system causes long rebleed and possible ABS issues.
- If the vehicle has ABS, be prepared: ABS units can trap air; an ordinary bleed may not purge ABS hydraulic solenoids. A scan-tool actuated bleed cycle or powered pressure bleeder that cycles ABS is often required.
- Dispose of old fluid per local hazardous waste rules.

General approach (best practice)
- Goal: replace old contaminated fluid with fresh fluid and purge air. Best method: pressure bleeder attached to reservoir and bleed each wheel starting with farthest from master cylinder. If no pressure bleeder, use vacuum bleeder or two-person pump/bleed method.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park level, chock wheels, set parking brake (while chocks prevent roll).
- Remove wheels or at least access to bleed nipples and calipers/wheel cylinders.
- Clean around master cylinder cap and reservoir top thoroughly to prevent contamination when opening.
- Identify master cylinder location and which wheel is farthest. (General rule: start farthest wheel from master cylinder, then next farthest, finishing with closest.)

2) Remove old fluid from reservoir
- Use turkey baster or syringe to remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible. Leave some to avoid introducing air.
- Refill with new fluid to the “MAX” mark.

3) Set up bleeder tool
- Pressure bleeder: Fill the pressure bleeder reservoir with new brake fluid, attach to master cylinder reservoir or use the master cap adapter as instructed by manufacturer. Pressurize to low pressure (10–20 psi / about 0.7–1.4 bar) — enough to push fluid but not blow seals.
- Vacuum bleeder or hand pump: Attach clear hose to bleeder pump. Prepare collection bottle and clamp hose on bleed nipple end with a small clip to maintain flow path.
- Two-person: one at steering wheel, one at each wheel to open/close nipple.

4) Bleeding sequence
- Standard sequence: start with wheel farthest from master cylinder and work toward nearest. If unsure, find master cylinder and determine order by distance.
- For each wheel:
a) Clean around bleed nipple and fit clear hose over the nipple; route hose into collection bottle partially filled with a little clean fluid to maintain a fluid path and prevent air draw-back.
b) Crack the bleed nipple with correct spanner — just enough to open when commanded.
c) If using pressure bleeder: open nipple and let fluid flow until you see clear, bubble-free fluid. Close nipple while fluid is still flowing to avoid drawing air back. Tighten bleed screw to spec (snug; final torque per manual if available).
d) If using vacuum bleeder: apply hose to nipple, open nipple, operate pump until clean fluid with no bubbles flows. Close nipple and release vacuum.
e) If two-person pump: assistant presses brake pedal slowly to ~3/4 travel and holds while the wheel operator opens nipple; close nipple before assistant releases pedal. Repeat until fluid out to clear and no air.
f) After each wheel, check reservoir level and top up immediately to maintain above min mark. Never let it run dry.
- Continue to next wheel in order until all four wheels produce clean, bubble-free fluid.

5) Final checks
- Re-check and top reservoir to MAX, replace cap.
- Tighten all bleed nipples to correct torque / snugness.
- Pump brake pedal slowly; pedal should firm up. If very soft, repeat bleeding or consider ABS-cycling.
- If ABS present and pedal still soft or ABS light on: use scan tool to cycle ABS valves while bleeding or perform the manufacturer-specific ABS bleed procedure (may require multiple pump/hold cycles or ABS activation tool).
- Inspect for leaks around wheel fittings, banjo bolts, hoses.
- Refit wheels, torque to wheel spec, lower vehicle.
- Road test at low speed in a safe area to confirm firm braking.

How the tools are used — specifics
- Pressure bleeder: fills and seals to master cylinder cap. Pump the unit to low pressure; pressurized fluid pushes old fluid through lines when bleed screws are opened. Use low PSI to avoid damaging seals. Close bleed screws while fluid is still flowing to avoid suction drawing air.
- Vacuum bleeder: hose fits over bleed nipple; hand pump creates vacuum to draw fluid out. Operate pump while opening nipple; maintain until clear fluid runs and no bubbles remain.
- Two-person pedal-bleed: operator presses and holds pedal; second person opens nipple to let fluid out, then closes before pedal release. Always close nipple before pedal return.

Replacement parts & consumables
- New brake fluid (bottle(s) enough to flush entire system; plan on 1–2 liters depending on system size).
- New crush washers for banjo bolts (if you disturb lines) — recommended to replace if removed or if original is copper and shows deformation.
- Bleed nipple replacement if corroded or rounded.
- Master cylinder reservoir cap gasket if degraded.
- If contamination/foam/blackened fluid, consider servicing/bench-bleeding or replacing master cylinder and flushing new calipers/lines if required.
- If ABS-related air is suspected and cannot be cleared, ABS hydraulic control unit or proportioning valve may need professional service.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Letting reservoir run dry: always top up. Air introduction leads to long troubleshooting.
- Mixing DOT types: always use specified DOT; mixing can gel seals and ruin components.
- Over-pressurizing pressure bleeder: keep within recommended psi (10–20 psi). High pressure can blow seals or force fluid past internal seals.
- Not checking for ABS: standard bleeding may not purge ABS modulators — use scan tool or pressure bleeder capable of cycling ABS.
- Reusing old fluid or re-introducing contamination: never siphon fluid back into bottle; keep everything clean.
- Rounded/corroded bleed nipples: strip and you'll leak/have hard-to-close nipple; replace them.
- Not replacing banjo crush washers after removing hoses: leads to leaks.
- Not properly disposing of old fluid: do not pour down drains or onto ground.

Disposal
- Collect used fluid in a sealed container and dispose of per local hazardous waste regulations.

That’s the full procedure. Follow the workshop manual for any vehicle-specific bleed order, torque specs, and ABS procedures.
rteeqp73

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