Short summary
This guide walks you, as a beginner mechanic, through diagnosing and repairing the hydraulic clutch system and clutch assembly on tractors and machines that use the Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 engine families. You’ll get the theory (how it works and why it fails), a detailed parts breakdown, tools and parts list, step‑by‑step procedures (removal, inspection, replacement, bleeding), measurement/inspection limits, common faults and fixes, and safety advice. Follow a workshop manual for exact bolt torques and fluid type for your specific machine — I give procedure detail and typical practical values where safe, but always confirm torque and fluid spec with the machine’s manual.

Why this repair is needed (theory, in plain language)
- The clutch is a mechanical sandwich: the flywheel (engine side), the driven (friction) disc, and the pressure plate (covers and clamps the disc to the flywheel). When the pressure plate clamps, torque flows from engine to gearbox; when you press the pedal, the clutch is released so gears can be changed.
- The hydraulic system (master cylinder at the pedal, hydraulic line, slave or release cylinder at the gearbox) converts the pedal push into fluid pressure that pushes the release bearing to lift the pressure plate. Think of it as a syringe: push the plunger (pedal → master cylinder), fluid flows down the pipe and pushes the slave piston (release bearing).
- Repairs are needed when the clutch slips, drags, won’t disengage, has a soft pedal, or the pedal feels spongy. Problems come from worn friction material, warped or glazed flywheel/pressure plate, failed release bearing, fluid leaks, collapsed master/slave seals, and air in the hydraulic lines.

Main components — what each one is and does
- Clutch pedal and pedal box: lever you press; pushes the master cylinder pushrod.
- Clutch master cylinder: small hydraulic piston with a reservoir. Pushes fluid into the line. Contains seals and a pushrod. Has inlet (reservoir) and outlet (line). Usually mounted to the cab/bulkhead.
- Hydraulic reservoir: holds brake/clutch fluid. Keep it clean and at correct level.
- Hydraulic line (hose/pipe): carries fluid from master to slave; could be steel hard line + rubber sections.
- Slave/release cylinder (or release unit): piston at the gearbox end that moves the release bearing or a mechanical linkage. Often mounted on or in the gearbox bellhousing.
- Release (throw‑out) bearing: contacts the pressure plate fingers/diaphragm to release clamping. Slides on the gearbox input shaft.
- Clutch cover / pressure plate: springs or diaphragm that clamp the friction disc to the flywheel.
- Friction (driven) disc: friction material on both sides; splined to gearbox input shaft.
- Flywheel: bolted to the crank; provides friction surface and inertia.
- Pilot bearing / bush: supports gearbox input shaft in crank; sits in flywheel or crank nose.
- Bellhousing and gearbox: housing that contains these components and mounts to engine.

Tools, consumables, and parts you’ll need
- Basic tools: socket and spanner sets, torque wrench, screwdrivers, pliers, hammer, pry bar.
- Specialty tools: clutch alignment tool (or a makeshift shaft of correct diameter), transmission jack or support, engine support or strong jack, snap ring pliers if needed, bench bleed kit or tube for master cylinder.
- Measuring tools: Vernier calipers or micrometer, straight edge, feeler gauge, dial indicator for flywheel runout (optional but useful).
- Fluids and lubricants: correct type of hydraulic clutch fluid (check manual — commonly DOT 3 or DOT 4 for many tractors; some agricultural systems use mineral oil — verify!), high temp grease for splines and bearing sleeve.
- Consumables and parts: new clutch kit (pressure plate, disc, release bearing), pilot bearing (recommended), new master cylinder and/or slave cylinder or seals if they’re leaking, copper crush washers or banjo bolts if applicable, hose clamps or new hydraulic lines if damaged, clutch cover bolts (replace if stretched), gasket sealant if gearbox separates, new retaining bolts as recommended.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, strong jack stands, wheel chocks, drip trays, shop rags.

Safety first
- Park on firm level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery to prevent starter engagement, support vehicle and gearbox securely on jacks/stands. Don’t work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Hydraulic fluid is corrosive to paint and skin — clean spills, wear gloves, and dispose of fluid legally.
- Heavy components (gearbox, flywheel, clutch) can crush you — use mechanical supports and helpers.

Basic diagnosis checklist (quick)
- Pedal feels soft/spongy and travel is long: suspect air or failing master/slave.
- Pedal goes to floor and no disengage: fluid loss, leak, or failed master.
- Clutch slips under load but seems normal at idle: worn friction disc or oil contamination on disc.
- Harsh engagement or chatter: warped flywheel or damaged pressure plate springs.
- Noise on pedal operation: worn release bearing or misaligned parts.

Step‑by‑step procedure — full clutch overhaul + hydraulic cylinder swap (beginner‑friendly, thorough)
Before you start: get space, a helper for heavy lifting, and read the gearbox removal section of the workshop manual for your machine.

1) Preparation
- Remove personal items, disconnect battery negative.
- Drain coolant only if needed to remove components; generally clutch work does not need coolant drain.
- Clean around the area to keep dirt out when opening bellhousing and hydraulic ports.
- Place drip trays under master and slave.

2) Check hydraulic system (possible easy fixes before major dismantle)
- Inspect reservoir for correct fluid, contamination, or low level. Top up with the correct fluid if low and test.
- Check for visible leaks at master cylinder, hose, fittings, and slave cylinder. If leaking externally, you will need to replace the leaking component.
- Operate pedal with hood off (engine off) while an assistant watches slave — do you see movement? If no movement and fluid sloshes, suspect internal master failure or blocked line.

If you must pull the clutch assembly, proceed:

3) Remove gearbox (general sequence — adapt to your tractor/machine)
- Shift gearbox to neutral, remove PTO drive, unplug linkages, speedometer cable, hydraulic lines to free gearbox.
- Support gearbox with transmission jack. Remove bellhousing bolts that attach gearbox to engine (mark bolt positions, keep bolts in order).
- Separate gearbox from engine carefully. May need slight pry (avoid bending dowels). Keep it supported — gearbox is heavy.
- Rotate input shaft slightly to free the clutch if stuck.

4) Remove clutch cover and disc
- With bellhousing off you’ll see flywheel and clutch cover (pressure plate) bolted to the flywheel.
- Loosen clutch cover bolts evenly in a star pattern a few turns at a time to avoid warping. Remove cover and clutch disc together as an assembly (they are captive by the bolts). If bolts are very tight, soak with penetrating oil and use correct socket.
- Inspect and keep note of any alignment marks you make on the flywheel and cover for reassembly orientation.

5) Inspect components — what to measure and what is replaceable
- Friction disc: measure thickness and look for heat glazing, oil contamination, rivet exposure. If friction material worn to rivets or contaminated with oil/grease, replace.
- Pressure plate: check diaphragm fingers for evenness; check for cracks, broken springs, or heat spots. Replace if any fault.
- Flywheel: look for hot spots, blueing, heavy scoring or cracks. Minor glaze can be removed by resurfacing (skimming) on a lathe; heavy scoring or cracks require replacement. Check flywheel runout with dial indicator — any excessive runout needs correction.
- Pilot bearing: if noisy or stiff, replace.
- Release bearing: check for smoothness; if noisy or worn replace (always recommended to replace during clutch job).
- Splines on gearbox input shaft: clean and inspect; not rounded. Light smear of high‑temp grease on splines before assembly only on spline area that contacts disc (do not get grease on friction surfaces).
- Clutch cover bolts: check for elongation; some re-use, many recommend replacing.

Typical clutch disc thickness: depends on kit; compare to new part specification in kit. If you don’t have spec, replace disc if it’s significantly thinner or rivets are close.

6) Replace or rebuild master & slave cylinders (if required)
- Master cylinder replacement:
- Remove the hydraulic line at the master (be ready for fluid loss). Cap hoses/line ends.
- Unbolt master cylinder from bulkhead; release the pedal pushrod and remove cylinder.
- Bench‑bleed the new master before fitting: secure the cylinder in a vise, fill reservoir, attach short tubes from outlet back into reservoir and push piston slowly to remove air until no bubbles. This avoids introducing air into system.
- Fit new master, reconnect pushrod and pedal linkage, torque to spec.
- Slave cylinder/release cylinder replacement:
- Remove hydraulic line and mounting bolts, and note the orientation and pushrod length.
- Fit new slave, torque mounting bolts to spec, connect the hydraulic line with new sealing washers if required.
- Refill reservoir to correct level and cap.

7) Reassemble clutch (install new kit)
- Clean flywheel mating surface, remove oil and dirt. If you had the flywheel resurfaced, ensure runout is within spec.
- Use clutch alignment tool to hold friction disc centered on flywheel splines. The hub of the disc must be fitted in normal orientation (pressure plate side facing flywheel as marked).
- Install pressure plate and torque bolts gradually in a star pattern to factory torque. Even tightening prevents warp. If you don’t know exact torque, torque to a moderate spec (e.g., 20–40 Nm) and then check manual — but I strongly recommend finding the exact number in the workshop manual before final torque.
- Reinstall bellhousing/gearbox: align dowels, carefully mate gearbox to engine, replace bellhousing bolts, torque to manual spec in stages.

8) Bleeding the hydraulic system (to remove air)
Choose one: pedal bleeding, vacuum bleeding, pressure bleeding, or reverse bleeding. For beginners, pedal bleeding is common.

Pedal bleeding method:
- With a helper inside operating the pedal, open the slave cylinder bleed nipple slightly (use a clear tube ending in a jar with fluid).
- Helper presses pedal slowly to floor and holds it; you (at bleed nipple) open nipple to let fluid/air out. Close nipple, then helper releases pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the fluid coming out and pedal feels firm.
- Keep reservoir topped up to avoid sucking more air.
- Do three or four firm pedal pumps and check engagement point; if still soft repeat.
- Torque bleed nipple to spec after final bleed and wipe up fluid.

Reverse bleeding is often faster and useful: using a fluid pressure or vacuum pump to push fluid from slave toward master (reverse flow) reduces air pockets. Use a pressure bleeder or vacuum pump if available.

9) Adjustment and setting free play
- Set pedal free play to the manual specification (typical light free play might be ~8–15 mm at pedal top, but confirm). Free play ensures full release and full engagement without drag.
- Check engagement point by starting engine and shifting through gears with machine stationary (handbrake on). Adjust linkage if needed.

10) Test drive and final checks
- Test in a safe area: check for slipping (engine revs increase without speed), dragging (gear grinding when shifting into gear with pedal down), noise, and pedal feel.
- Recheck fluid level after a short drive and top up as necessary. Check for leaks at fittings.

What can go wrong — diagnosis and fixes
- Soft/spongy pedal: air in system or weak master/slave seals. Fix: bleed and/or replace cylinder(s).
- Pedal sinks to floor: internal leak in master cylinder or line leak. Fix: replace master if internal, or fix hose/fittings if external leak.
- Clutch slipping under load: worn friction disc or contaminated disc with oil from rear main or gearbox seal. Fix: replace disc, and seal leaks before reassembly.
- Harsh engagement/chatter: warped flywheel or pressure plate or broken springs. Fix: resurface or replace flywheel, replace pressure plate.
- Noisy or binding release bearing: worn bearing or misalignment. Fix: replace bearing and ensure input shaft/pilot bearing alignment.
- Fluid contamination / wrong fluid: wrong fluid (e.g., mineral oil vs DOT) can swell seals. Always use specified fluid.
- Hydraulic hose collapse internally: hose may allow fluid pass internally but collapse when pressurized; replace hoses if suspect.

Maintenance and preventative tips
- Replace seals and bearings proactively if the clutch has high hours — it costs little extra while clutch is accessible.
- Keep hydraulic fluid clean and capped; replace periodically with fresh fluid as recommended.
- Inspect and replace any rubber hoses older than 10 years or with cracks.
- If you find oil on the disc, find the source (rear main seal or gearbox input seal) and repair — new clutch will fail if contaminated.
- Always bench‑bleed or at least thoroughly bleed after any master replacement.

Common beginner pitfalls (avoid these)
- Don’t pump the pedal with the reservoir empty — you’ll draw in air and complicate bleeding.
- Don’t torque clutch cover bolts unevenly or in sequence that doesn’t tighten in a star pattern; you’ll warp the cover.
- Don’t put grease on the friction surfaces. Only lightly grease the splines where the disc slides and the contact surface of the release bearing sleeve if specified.
- Don’t forget to mark orientation of parts if you remove them — most clutch covers are balanced with flywheel; keep original orientation if reusing.

Useful analogies to keep it simple
- Hydraulic system = syringe set: master is the plunger, pipes are the syringe barrel, slave is the receiving plunger. Air in the line is like bubbles in the syringe — it compresses and feels spongy.
- Clutch = sandwich press: flywheel is one bread slice, pressure plate is the other slice with springs as the press. The disc is the filling. The release bearing pulls the top slice away so you can open the sandwich.

Final notes
- This is a hands‑on job that usually requires removing the gearbox — plan time, space, and help. A full clutch and hydraulic cylinder replacement can take a day or more depending on experience and access.
- Always refer to the specific Perkins/machine workshop manual for exact torque values, fluid type, and specification measurements. If you need, get the engine/tractor’s model year and serial and consult the workshop manual before final torques and fluid choice.

You have everything needed here to follow a workshop‑style repair: theory, component descriptions, tools, step‑by‑step procedure, inspection limits, bleeding methods, and common failures. Proceed methodically, prioritize safety, and follow the model’s manual for torque and fluid specifications.
rteeqp73

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