- Safety first
- Wear gloves and eye protection; work with the engine switched off, key removed and battery negative disconnected to avoid accidental cranking or short circuits.
- Let the engine cool before touching pulleys, hoses, or the water pump.

- Check which belt type your installation uses
- Many Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 installations use V-belts (one or more) rather than a modern serpentine belt; check the engine or fan shroud for a routing diagram or inspect the pulleys visually.
- If you have a multi-rib (serpentine) belt with a spring-loaded tensioner, follow the serpentine procedure below; if you have individual V-belts with adjuster brackets, follow the V-belt adjuster procedure (both procedures are included).

- Tools you need and how to use them (detailed)
- Combination wrench set (open-ended and boxed end): used to loosen/tighten alternator pivot and adjuster bolts. Use the boxed end for best torque and the open end for tight clearance spots. Select the size that fits the bolt head snugly to avoid rounding.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric sizes likely): provides more leverage and access to bolts. Attach the correct-size socket and use the ratchet to turn bolts; use an extension for recessed bolts.
- Breaker bar (long-handled non-ratcheting bar): gives extra leverage for stuck pivot or tensioner bolts. Attach a socket and apply steady pressure—don’t jerk.
- Serpentine belt tool or long 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet/lever for tensioner: a low-profile long handle lets you rotate a spring-loaded tensioner pulley to release belt tension. Insert the socket on the tensioner nut and push/pull to move the tensioner.
- Pry bar or large flat screwdriver (stout): for gently moving the alternator or adjuster if the adjuster bolt is stiff; use carefully to avoid damage.
- Belt tension gauge (recommended): measures deflection or tension to set correct belt tension. Follow gauge instructions and measure at the midpoint of the longest span.
- Straight rule or ruler (if no gauge): used to measure belt deflection as a rough check. Use the rule to measure how far the belt moves under a given finger pressure.
- Torque wrench: to tighten pivot/adjuster bolts to correct torque if you have torque specs (recommended when reassembling).
- Flashlight or work lamp: improves visibility in the engine bay.
- Marker, paper or phone camera: to record belt routing before removal.
- Gloves, basic hand tools (screwdrivers, pliers): general tasks, removing guards or clips.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40): helps free seized bolts.
- Replacement belt(s) and optionally a replacement tensioner/idler: purchase the correct belt size/part number for your engine/installation (see parts section).

- Optional but recommended extra tools and why
- Belt tension gauge: gives the correct tension and prevents over/under-tightening which can damage bearings or the belt.
- Torque wrench: ensures pivot/adjuster fasteners are tightened to manufacturer specs; prevents loosening and bracket damage.
- Serpentine belt removal tool set: low-profile and designed for difficult-to-reach tensioners, making removal much easier in tight engine bays.

- Inspect parts before removing the belt
- Look for cracks, glazing, fraying, or oil contamination on the belt; if any is present, the belt must be replaced.
- Spin pulleys by hand (with belt removed) and feel for roughness in bearings, play in pulley wobble, or noise. Any rough or wobbling pulley indicates a replacement part is likely required.
- Check tensioner spring action (if fitted) — if weak or noisy, replace the tensioner.

- Replacement parts that might be required and why
- New belt (most likely needed): belts age, crack, stretch, or glaze. Always replace a suspect belt rather than risk failure.
- Tensioner assembly (if fitted): spring can weaken, or pulley bearing can fail causing improper tension and belt wear.
- Idler pulley(s): bearings wear; a noisy or seized idler will damage a new belt quickly.
- Alternator/water pump pulleys or bearing replacements: if pulleys wobble or bearings are rough, replacement prevents premature belt failure and protects the accessory.
- Adjuster bolts/brackets (if corroded or damaged): ensure you can reliably set tension and lock the adjuster.
- Choose OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts sized for the Perkins engine or your specific accessory layout. Keep the engine serial or model handy when ordering.

- Removing the old belt (serpentine style)
- Locate the spring-loaded tensioner pulley and identify the bolt or square drive on the tensioner head.
- Use the serpentine belt tool or appropriate ratchet/socket to rotate the tensioner body and relieve tension on the belt; hold the tensioner over and slide the belt off a convenient pulley.
- Slowly release the tensioner back to position.
- Remove the belt from the rest of the pulleys and note routing; take a clear photo for reference.

- Removing the old belt (V-belts with adjuster)
- Loosen the lock nut on the alternator or adjuster bracket with the combination wrench or socket.
- Use a pry bar or move the alternator body to reduce tension and slip the V-belt off the smallest pulley first.
- Inspect adjuster threads and pivot bolts; remove the belt.

- Inspect components after belt removal
- Spin each pulley by hand to confirm smooth bearings.
- Check pulley grooves for wear or embedded debris.
- Clean pulley grooves if contaminated; do not sand or file grooves — replace if badly worn.

- Fitting the new belt (serpentine)
- Compare the new belt to the old one to confirm correct length and rib profile.
- Route the belt around all pulleys following the routing diagram or your photo, leaving the tensioner pulley for last.
- Rotate the tensioner again with the belt tool and slip the belt over the tensioner pulley, then release the tensioner so it takes up belt tension.
- Visually check that the belt seats correctly in all pulley grooves.

- Fitting the new belt (V-belt)
- Route each V-belt over the corresponding pulleys.
- Move the alternator or adjuster to apply tension and tighten the adjuster lock nut while holding the position.
- Use a straight edge to ensure belts sit correctly in pulley grooves if multiple belts present.

- Setting belt tension (how to do it safely)
- Preferred: use a belt tension gauge and follow the gauge / manufacturer specification for belt type.
- If no gauge: for most serpentine belts, apply moderate thumb pressure at the midpoint of the longest run and expect roughly 8–12 mm (about 1/4"–1/2") deflection as a general guide — aim conservatively to avoid over-tightening. For V-belts, follow the factory spec or set deflection to approximately 8–12 mm under moderate hand pressure across the longest span; consult the manual for exact values.
- Tighten adjuster or allow the automatic tensioner to set itself, then torque pivot/lock nuts to spec if known; otherwise tighten securely and recheck after running.

- Final checks and break-in
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start the engine and observe belt operation for a minute: watch for proper tracking, noise, or wobble.
- Turn off engine and recheck tension and pulley fastener tightness.
- Recheck tension after a short run (50–100 km / 30–60 miles or after a few hours of operation) and retighten adjuster if necessary.

- Troubleshooting quick guide
- Squeal on start or during acceleration: belt may be loose, glazed, contaminated with oil, or a pulley bearing is failing. Re-inspect and replace belt or pulleys as needed.
- Belt walks off pulleys: misaligned pulleys or worn grooves—check alignment and pulley condition.
- Rapid belt wear: incorrect tension, contaminated pulleys, or failing bearings—address the root cause and replace damaged parts.

- Practical tips for a beginner
- Take clear photos of the belt routing before you remove anything.
- Replace the belt rather than trying to patch an old, cracked belt.
- If you feel unsure about tension specs, install a new belt and run the engine briefly, then recheck tension and pulleys; if noise continues, replace tensioner/idler as needed.
- Keep a rag handy to wipe oil from pulleys before fitting a new belt.

- Minimal parts checklist to buy before you start
- Correct replacement belt(s) for your specific installation (bring old belt or engine serial to parts store)
- Replacement tensioner and idler pulleys if they show wear or are of unknown age
- Small bottle of penetrating oil and a few basic fasteners if any are corroded

- Final note
- If routing is unclear or your engine uses an uncommon accessory layout, use a factory workshop manual or consult a local mechanic to confirm exact belt routing and tension specifications for your particular Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 installation.
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