1) Safety & preparation
- Theory: cooling systems are pressurised and hot; spills create burns/environmental hazard; heavy radiators require safe lifting.
- Action: let engine cool fully; isolate battery negative; wear gloves/eye protection; have drip trays and absorbent. Gather correct replacement radiator, new hoses/clamps, new pressure cap, coolant (Perkins-approved inhibitor mix), tools, lifting sling.

2) Identify fault & confirm radiator is cause
- Theory: overheating/leakage may come from radiator leaks, clogged core, corroded fins, or unrelated items (thermostat, pump, head gasket). Replacing radiator fixes radiator-origin faults only.
- Action: visually confirm external leaks, pressure-loss during pressure test, restricted flow (poor core fin condition), or cooling capacity reduction. If coolant is milky (oil contamination) stop — radiator replacement alone won’t fix internal engine failure.

3) Drain coolant
- Theory: removing coolant prevents spills and reduces weight; draining reduces internal pressure and allows safer disconnection. Coolant must be captured for disposal.
- Action: place drain tray, open drain cock/plug at lowest point (engine block or radiator petcock), open expansion tank/cap only when cool to vent. Remove cap once pressure relieved.

4) Loosen and remove attachments (in order: hoses, fan/shroud, intercooler/oil cooler connections, mounts)
- Theory: cooling circuit components attach to radiator; freeing them lets radiator be removed without stress on hoses/adjacent components. Fan/shroud removal often needed for clearance.
- Action: loosen hose clamps and remove upper and lower hoses; remove bypass or heater hoses as applicable; unbolt fan or fan clutch (support fan if removing); unbolt shroud; disconnect any oil cooler lines or intercooler connections mounted to radiator. Cap and tag hoses to avoid routing errors.

5) Support & remove radiator
- Theory: radiator is heavy and may be connected to mounts and brackets; correct support prevents damage.
- Action: support radiator, remove mounting bolts/brackets, lift radiator clear using sling or two people. Inspect mounting rubbers and brackets; replace if damaged.

6) Inspect related components while radiator is out
- Theory: faults can be caused/enhanced by worn hoses, failing water pump, sticking thermostat, corroded core, or broken fan. Replacing radiator without addressing these can leave the system deficient.
- Action: inspect hoses for soft/crumbly rubber, inspect water pump for leaks/play, check fan clutch/freeplay, inspect thermostat operation (replace if old), inspect oil cooler/intercooler and radiator inlet/outlet faces for blockages or damage.

7) Install new radiator (reverse removal) — ensure correct orientation and secure mounting
- Theory: correct positioning prevents stress on pipes and ensures proper airflow; firm mounts eliminate vibration damage.
- Action: lower new radiator into mounts, fit new or refurbished mounting rubbers, tighten mounting bolts to manual spec (consult Perkins manual). Reconnect shroud and fan assembly; ensure fan clearance. Replace any seals/gaskets where oil cooler or transmission cooler connections were removed.

8) Reconnect hoses & clamps, replace pressure cap
- Theory: new clamps and hoses ensure pressure integrity; worn clamps or hoses cause leaks under pressure. The cap maintains system pressure and raises boiling point.
- Action: fit new or inspected hoses, use proper worm-gear clamps or ear clamps, ensure hose ends fully seated, install new radiator cap rated to original spec.

9) Refill with correct coolant and top-up to recommended level
- Theory: proper inhibitor type and concentration prevent corrosion and cavitation and provide freeze/boil protection. Air in system reduces heat transfer and can cause overheating.
- Action: fill with Perkins-recommended coolant (typically inhibited ethylene glycol mix) to expansion tank level.

10) Bleed air from system
- Theory: air pockets block coolant flow and act as thermal insulators causing hotspots and pump cavitation. Proper bleeding restores continuous coolant column.
- Action: open bleed screws/valves (top of radiator/engine) while filling; if no dedicated bleeds, run engine at idle with heater on high and radiator cap off until thermostat opens and bubbles stop; top-up; fit cap once stable.

11) Pressure/leak test and run-up check
- Theory: pressurising system verifies sealing; running to operating temp confirms cooling performance and absence of air pockets or leaks.
- Action: use a hand pressure tester to pressurise to the cap rating and hold for 10–15 minutes; inspect for leaks. Start engine, warm to operating temperature, verify thermostat opening (temperature rise), check temperature gauge, watch for leaks, and verify fan operation. Re-check coolant level after cool-down and re-torque fittings if needed.

12) Final checks & disposal
- Theory: systems settle after first run; topping up ensures full fill. Old coolant must be disposed responsibly.
- Action: after cool-down, re-check level and tighten clamps/mounts; re-secure battery; clean spilled coolant; dispose used coolant per regulations.

How this repair fixes specific faults (brief):
- External leak (cracked core/pipe): replacement restores pressure boundary; no more loss of coolant or pressure, so boiling point returns to normal and overheating from low coolant stops.
- Internal blockage/corrosion: new radiator restores core flow and heat-transfer surface area, reducing coolant temperature and restoring coolant circulation.
- Reduced heat rejection due to clogged fins/scale: new core provides improved convective/conductive transfer to airflow; lowers coolant temp.
- Pressure loss due to cracked tank or degraded joints: new radiator and new cap hold system pressure, raising boiling point and preventing cavitation/air ingress.

Notes & cautions (concise):
- If coolant contains oil (milky), replacing radiator won’t solve underlying head gasket/oil cooler failure — address root cause first.
- Always replace compromised hoses, clamps, and cap; check thermostat and water pump if symptoms persist.
- Refer to the Perkins workshop manual for model-specific mount locations, torque figures, coolant capacity, and bleed-point locations.
rteeqp73

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Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set + extension
- Deep 22–28 mm sensor socket or thin-walled open-ended wrench sized to the sender (verify size before starting)
- Torque wrench (0–50 Nm range)
- Multimeter (DC volts/ohms)
- Flat-blade pick and small wire brush or contact cleaner
- Clean rags and drip tray
- Nitrile gloves, eye protection
- Battery isolator or 10 mm spanner to disconnect battery
- Thread sealant or PTFE tape only if the replacement sensor requires it (see note below)
- Dielectric grease
- Replacement oil temperature sender (OEM Perkins sender for your specific engine model — verify part number and thread type)
- Light oil/clean engine degreaser (optional)

Safety first
- Work on a level surface, engine OFF, key removed. Allow engine and oil to cool completely to avoid burns.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before loosening electrical connectors.
- Chock wheels and secure vehicle if under load or lifted.
- Use eye protection and gloves. Catch any oil in a drip tray and clean spills promptly.

Overview/notes about parts and threads
- Perkins 4.2/4.236/4.248 family uses sender units that can be either threaded with an O-ring/seal or tapered pipe thread. Do NOT assume thread sealant type. If the sender has an O-ring, do NOT use PTFE tape—use a clean O-ring and light smear of engine oil or specified sealing compound. If it is tapered NPT/BSP, use PTFE tape as manufacturer directs. Check the new sensor’s thread and the engine port; follow the sensor supplier or Perkins workshop manual for sealant spec. Using the wrong sealant is a common cause of leaks.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Preparation
- Obtain the correct replacement sensor for the exact engine model and serial range. Compare thread type and connector.
- Place drip tray under engine area where the sender is located.
- Allow engine and oil to cool to ambient temperature.

2. Battery and access
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove any obstructing components or hose clamps that prevent access to the sender (air hoses, engine guard, wiring looms). Keep removed fasteners in a labeled container.

3. Locate the oil temperature sensor
- Typical locations on Perkins 4.2/4.236/4.248 family: oil filter housing, oil cooler housing or block near oil filter/crankcase. Refer to engine view; the sender is a brass-bodied stud with an electrical spade or multi-pin connector.
- Clean around the sender with a rag and degreaser to prevent contamination entering the port.

4. Disconnect electrical connector
- Release the retaining clip and pull the connector straight off. Use a small flat-blade pick to depress locking tangs if needed.
- Inspect connector pins for corrosion. Clean with contact cleaner if necessary.

5. Remove the old sender
- Fit the correct size sensor socket or open-ended wrench on the sender. Use a thin wall socket to avoid rounding the hex.
- Hold socket and break the sender loose counterclockwise. Expect some light oil to weep; catch it.
- Remove sender by hand once loose and set it aside.

6. Inspect port and prepare replacement
- Clean threads and port with a rag. Inspect for damaged threads. If metal shavings or heavy corrosion exist, stop and repair thread before installing new sender.
- If the old sender had an O-ring, remove any residue and ensure the new sender has a new O-ring of the correct size (replace O-ring if not supplied).
- If the new sender requires sealant on tapered thread, wrap PTFE tape clockwise on the sender end (only use if specified). If using anaerobic sealant, apply per instructions. Do not overuse sealant.

7. Install the new sender
- Lightly lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil if present.
- Thread the sender in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Turn clockwise until hand-tight.
- Use the sensor socket and torque wrench to tighten to manufacturer torque. If exact spec unavailable, use a cautious torque: 15–25 Nm (11–18 ft·lb) for small brass senders. Do not exceed 30 Nm. Over-torquing risks cracking the sender or engine port.
- If no torque wrench is available, tighten firmly by hand + 1/4 to 1/2 turn with the wrench—avoid heavy force.

8. Reconnect electrical connector
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to connector pins to prevent corrosion.
- Push connector fully onto sender until the locking clip engages.

9. Final checks and test
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Start engine and let idle. Observe oil temperature gauge or instrument cluster for proper operation (gauge should move from cold to normal range as engine warms).
- With engine warm, shut off and recheck sender for oil leaks. Tighten slightly only if a leak is present—do not overtighten.
- If available, verify sensor electrical output with a multimeter: check resistance between sender terminal and ground at cold and hot conditions (resistance should change as temperature changes) or read volts with the gauge circuit energized. Compare to manufacturer diagnostics if available.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using PTFE tape on an O-ring type sender: causes leaks. Identify thread type before sealing.
- Over‑torquing the brass sender: leads to cracked sender or damaged block/port. Use torque wrench and the recommended torque range.
- Cross‑threading during installation: always hand-thread first; if you feel high resistance, back out and realign.
- Not cooling engine/oil: leads to burns—allow cooling time.
- Re-using old sealing O‑ring: always fit a new O-ring when required.
- Damaging electrical connector pins: depress locking tangs gently and use contact cleaner; replace connector if pins are corroded.
- Failing to verify part fitment: wrong thread or electrical type will cause leaks or incorrect readings. Always match sender to engine serial/model and inspect the thread type before installing.

Tool usage details
- Sensor socket: thin-walled deep socket matches the hex on the sender. Use extension for clearance. Do not use adjustable wrench on sensor hex if access allows a socket—less risk of rounding.
- Torque wrench: set to specified torque and use smooth, even pull to stop at the set value. If spec unknown, stay within 15–25 Nm for small brass senders.
- Multimeter: set to ohms (Ω). With sender disconnected, measure between sender terminal and body/ground. Warm engine should show different resistance to cold; if no change or open circuit, sender is faulty.

Replacement parts required
- Correct Perkins oil temperature sender for your engine model/serial range (do not substitute without confirming thread and electrical characteristics).
- New O-ring or sealing washer if the sensor design requires it (often supplied with the sender).
- Small bottle of dielectric grease and appropriate thread sealant if mandated by the replacement part.

Post-job
- Dispose of any contaminated rags and oil according to local regulations.
- Record part number and torque used for future reference.

Done.
rteeqp73

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: 8–19 mm sockets and spanners, ratchet, extensions, screwdriver set, pick.
- Torx/Allen bits if applicable (some sensors use Allen).
- Torque wrench (set to OEM torque for sensor bolts – see workshop manual).
- Multimeter (auto-range, AC and DC), jumper leads.
- Optional: oscilloscope or lab scope (for best signal diagnosis).
- Cleaning rags, brake cleaner or electrical parts cleaner.
- Small wire brush.
- New camshaft position sensor (OEM part for your Perkins model) and new O‑ring/seal if sensor uses one.
- Dielectric grease.
- Thread locker (medium strength) only if specified by manual.
- Workshop manual or OEM torque/spec sheet for exact specs.
- Personal protective equipment (glasses, gloves).

Safety first
1. Work on a cool engine. Hot components cause burns.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal before disconnecting electrical connectors to avoid shorts and accidental cranking.
3. Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels if working on vehicle-mounted equipment.
4. Keep loose clothing/hands away from fans, belts, and rotating parts.
5. If you have to crank the engine during tests, stand clear of moving parts and secure long tools.

What the camshaft position sensor does (brief)
- The CPS monitors camshaft position/phase. Electronic diesel engines use it for injection timing and engine management. There are two common sensor types: inductive (magnetic pickup) which generates an AC voltage when the reluctor passes, and Hall-effect (active) sensors which require a 5 V supply and output a square wave. Your Perkins engines may use either — confirm by inspecting the connector (3 wires = usually Hall or active; 2 wires = usually inductive).

Locate the sensor
- On the listed Perkins 4.2/4.3/4.8 family the CPS is typically mounted in the timing cover or cylinder head adjacent to the camshaft drive/gear area (front of engine). Remove engine covers, air cleaner ducting or belly/inspection plates as required to access timing-cover area.

Step-by-step: test, remove, and replace CPS

A. Preliminary checks (before removal)
1. Disconnect negative battery.
2. Visually inspect the sensor and wiring harness for corrosion, crushed wires, broken connectors, oil contamination or movement damage. Repair wiring if damaged.
3. Identify connector pins: power (5 V), ground, signal for active/Hall sensors. For inductive sensors there will be two terminals.

B. Electrical test (determine sensor type & basic function)
- Inductive sensor (2-wire):
1. With sensor unplugged, measure resistance across the two pins with multimeter (ohms). Typical ranges vary; a reading of open/infinite = bad; a very low short = bad. If you don’t have exact spec, any stable finite resistance (hundreds to a few thousand ohms) is normal for many inductive pickups.
2. Reconnect and crank engine while measuring AC voltage across the two pins (use AC scale). You should see a pulsed AC voltage (tens to hundreds of millivolts up to volts depending on sensor) while cranking. No AC = suspect sensor/wiring or no reluctor passing the sensor.
- Hall/Active sensor (3-wire):
1. With key on (engine not cranking), backprobe connector: one pin should be battery/ignition-switched 5 V (or reference ~5 V), one ground, one signal.
2. Supply should be present; measure 5 V (or specified reference) between supply and ground. If no supply, problem upstream (ECU/fuse/ignition).
3. With oscilloscope or multimeter set to DC and cranking, measure signal pin vs ground. You should see the signal pulse between ~0–5 V (square wave) while cranking. No pulses = suspect sensor or wiring.

C. Removal
1. Mark/label connector orientation and push-pin/clip locations. Unclip electrical connector; carefully release any retaining clips.
2. Remove any obstructing components (timing cover access panels, brackets, hoses).
3. Remove sensor mounting bolt(s) using appropriate socket/Allen/Torx. Keep bolts for torque spec or replace if damaged.
4. Withdraw sensor straight out. If stuck from corrosion or seal, soak with cleaner and gently lever with a plastic pry to avoid damaging the bore.
5. Inspect mounting bore for metal shavings, debris, oil or damaged reluctor surface.

D. Inspect related components
- Inspect the reluctor/trigger wheel or camshaft gear face for damage or missing teeth.
- Inspect wiring harness for chafing at the timing cover edge.
- If sensor mounts into a sealed bore, check O-ring or seal condition; replace.

E. Installation (new sensor)
1. Fit a new O-ring/seal on the new sensor (lubricate lightly with clean engine oil or recommended lubricant). Do not use excessive grease inside the bore.
2. Install sensor into bore by hand, ensuring correct orientation and seating. Do not force or rotate the sensor if it’s keyed — align correctly.
3. Fit mounting bolt(s). Tighten by hand, then torque to manufacturer spec. If you don’t have the manual, snug then give the bolt a small additional fraction-turn—do not over-torque (sensor housings are typically soft aluminum).
4. Reconnect electrical connector. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to connector terminals to prevent corrosion (outside of the sensor mating faces).
5. Refit covers, air ducting, and any removed components.
6. Reconnect negative battery terminal.

F. Post-installation verification
1. Clear any stored fault codes with a scanner if available.
2. Start or crank engine. Check for engine running quality and for presence of signal (use scope or scanner showing camshaft reading).
3. If idle or timing faults persist, re-check connector voltages and ground continuity and confirm there is no ECU code for cam/crank correlation — if correlation fault persists, check crank position sensor and timing gears.

How to use the tools (practical notes)
- Multimeter: set to DC volts for Hall sensor supply and signal; set to resistance (ohms) for measuring inductive pickup resistance; set to AC volts for inductive output while cranking.
- Oscilloscope: connect ground clip to engine ground; probe signal wire; crank or run engine to observe waveform. A clean consistent square wave (Hall) or pulses (inductive) indicates a healthy sensor. Use scope to confirm timing relative to crank sensor if diagnosing injection timing.
- Torque wrench: set to correct spec and tighten smoothly; avoid shock tightening.
- Small wire brush & cleaner: remove corrosion from connector pins carefully; avoid bending pins.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Replacing sensor without checking wiring/fuses/ECU: often wiring damage or blown fuse is the real cause. Test supply and ground first.
- Using wrong part: sensors vary by polarity, reluctor gap, mounting length. Buy OEM or exact equivalent.
- Damaging O-ring or not replacing it: causes oil leaks and sensor misposition. Always replace seals.
- Over-tightening sensor bolt: strips aluminum bore or fractures the sensor housing.
- Not cleaning mounting bore: debris prevents proper seating and changes air gap; clean bore before installing.
- Assuming no signal = bad sensor: check supply voltage and ground first, then test harness continuity to ECU.
- For Hall sensors, backprobing without correct method can short supply—use proper probes and avoid shorting pins.
- If timing was disturbed while removing covers, do not run engine until timing is verified.

Replacement parts likely required
- New camshaft position sensor (OEM part number per engine model).
- New O-ring/seal for sensor.
- Replacement connector or pigtail if wiring/connector pins are corroded.
- Possibly sensor mounting bolt(s) if corroded or specified as single-use.

Final notes
- Always refer to the Perkins workshop manual for your exact engine variant for pinouts, resistance/signal specifications and torque values.
- If after replacement you get cam/crank correlation codes, inspect crankshaft position sensor and timing gear/chain alignment.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73