- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots; support gearbox on stands/chassis securely; work on level ground; never rely solely on a jack; keep hands clear of moving parts during test run.

- Tools (basic set you should have) — each tool described and how to use it
- Metric socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Description: range of metric sockets, 1/2" and 3/8" drive ratchets, extensions and universal joint.
- How to use: select correct socket for nuts/bolts, seat fully on fastener, pull with steady force; extensions help reach recessed nuts.
- Combination spanners (open-end and box-end)
- Description: matched sizes to sockets, useful in tight spaces.
- How to use: use box end to avoid rounding fasteners; hold steady while turning ratchet or breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (click-type) with appropriate drive
- Description: calibrated tool for applying specified torque; available in ranges (e.g., 20–200 Nm or 50–600 Nm).
- How to use: set required torque, tighten fastener slowly until wrench clicks; recheck after initial run-in if required by manual.
- Breaker bar / long-handled bar
- Description: long, non-ratcheting bar for breaking loose tight nuts.
- How to use: apply steady force; avoid sudden jerks; use cheater only if safe and controlled.
- Impact driver (hand or pneumatic) for stubborn bolts (optional)
- Description: delivers quick rotational blows to free stuck fasteners.
- How to use: use correct sockets rated for impact use; hold firmly and apply short bursts.
- Puller (3‑arm or two‑arm universal gear/flare puller)
- Description: threaded center forcing screw pulls flange off shaft without hammering.
- How to use: hook arms behind flange lip, center forcing screw on shaft end, turn screw steadily to pull flange off; protect shaft with sleeve if needed.
- Gearbox/gear puller adapter (flange puller plate) if flange has no obvious pull points
- Description: special plate or bolts that bolt to flange to allow even pulling.
- How to use: bolt plate to flange using supplied holes, attach puller to plate and extract evenly.
- Snap-ring/circlip pliers (internal and external)
- Description: pliers with tips to compress or expand circlips.
- How to use: match pliers to ring type, compress/expand and remove ring carefully into a safe container.
- Seal puller / hooked pry tool
- Description: hooked blade to pry seals out without damaging bore.
- How to use: slide hook under seal lip and lever out carefully, not gouging housing.
- Bearing puller / bearing separator (H‑type) and puller plate
- Description: two halves clamp behind bearing inner race; forcing screw extracts bearing.
- How to use: slide separator behind bearing, clamp, attach puller and draw bearing off shaft evenly.
- Hydraulic press or arbor press (recommended)
- Description: press used to remove/install bearings and fit interference parts squarely.
- How to use: support parts on appropriate pockets, press off/on using correct adapters, apply steady pressure.
- Bearing/gear drivers and soft-faced mallet (brass or plastic)
- Description: drivers sized to bearing outer race or flange face to tap parts home without damage.
- How to use: center driver on part, strike with soft mallet to seat gently and evenly.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- Description: measures run-out (flange wobble) to check straightness.
- How to use: mount base, zero at one point, rotate flange and observe max deviation; compare with allowed tolerance.
- Feeler gauges / plastigauge (for endplay or bearing clearance checks)
- Description: thin blades for gap measurement; plastigauge measures journal clearance when clamped under cap.
- How to use: follow plastigauge instructions — tighten cap to torque, remove and measure width of flattened strip.
- Pry bars and screwdrivers (wide variety)
- Description: leverage and scraping tools.
- How to use: use for gentle persuasion; avoid levering on bearing surfaces.
- Wire brush, brake cleaner or solvent, clean rags
- Description: cleaning tools to remove old sealant and oil.
- How to use: clean mating surfaces thoroughly before reassembly.
- Gasket scraper and sealant (RTV) or replacement gasket
- Description: remove old gasket material, apply specified sealant in required areas.
- How to use: scrape clean then apply new gasket or a thin continuous bead of RTV where specified by manual.
- Threadlocker (blue medium-strength and red high-strength where specified)
- Description: adhesive to prevent bolts loosening.
- How to use: apply to bolt threads where manual calls for it; red is permanent and requires heat for removal.
- Replacement nuts, studs, washers (assortment)
- Description: studs or nuts may be seized or stretched; replace as needed.
- How to use: replace and torque to spec; use new nyloc or crush washers if used originally.
- Oil drain pan and funnel; clean gearbox oil and specified fill oil
- Description: catch old oil and refill with correct grade and volume.
- How to use: drain, inspect oil for metal, refill to correct level after assembly.

- Extra / recommended tools (why they are required)
- Hydraulic press or bearing heater
- Why: ensures bearings and pressed parts are removed/installed without damage; tapping by hand risks misalignment and failure.
- Flange puller plate or guided puller
- Why: some output flanges have no accessible lip; using an adapter avoids bending flange or damaging shaft.
- Torque angle gauge (if manual uses torque + angle)
- Why: ensures correct fastener preload where required.
- Service manual / OEM torque specification sheet
- Why: gearbox fasteners, bearing preloads, and sealants require exact specs; guessing risks failure.

- Parts that commonly require replacement and why (what to inspect)
- Output flange (assembly)
- Why replace: worn or damaged splines, bent flange (run-out), cracked flange, stripped threads or broken studs.
- How to inspect: check spline tooth faces for rounding, check flange face for scoring, use dial indicator to check runout — if beyond spec, replace.
- Output shaft bearing(s)
- Why replace: bearing wear causes play, noise, and accelerated flange wear; if bearing feels rough or has axial/play it must be replaced.
- How to inspect: rotate by hand, feel for roughness; check play with pry bar; listen for roughness.
- Oil seal(s)
- Why replace: seals leak and allow oil loss/contamination; always replace when flange removed.
- How to inspect: visible oil at flange, hardened/cracked seal lip — replace.
- Circlips/snap rings, shims, spacers
- Why replace: they may deform on removal; correct shim stack controls bearing preload and endplay.
- How to inspect: measure endplay with feeler or plastigauge; preserve shim order or replace to factory spec.
- Studs/nuts/washers/fasteners
- Why replace: stretched or corroded fasteners lose preload; flange studs often seize and break.
- How to inspect: inspect threads; replace any damaged.
- Gaskets / RTV
- Why replace: mating surfaces need new gasket/sealant for oil-tight seal.

- Quick, practical repair workflow (beginner-friendly, condensed)
- Prepare work area and safety
- Park machine safe, chock wheels, disconnect battery if needed, support gearbox securely.
- Drain gearbox oil into pan and safely dispose
- Clean external area around flange to prevent contamination entering gearbox.
- Mark orientation of flange/prop shaft relationship
- Use paint or scribe so reassembly preserves alignment if required by driveline balance.
- Remove prop shaft or driveshaft from flange
- Remove securing nuts/bolts; note spacer/washers and their order.
- Remove flange retaining nut / hub fasteners
- Use sockets/spanners; use breaker bar for tight nuts; hold shaft from turning if required.
- Use puller or adapter plate to remove flange
- Attach puller evenly, center forcing screw on shaft end, turn slowly until flange pops free; protect shaft end to avoid scoring.
- Inspect flange, shaft splines, and bearing
- Visually inspect splines, runout with dial indicator, check bearing play; replace any damaged parts.
- Remove snap ring(s) or retaining items to access bearing/seal
- Use circlip pliers; retain rings in safe container.
- Remove bearing and/or seal
- Use bearing puller or press; if no press, use careful applications of a puller/separator and even force; do not pry on bearing race.
- Clean mating surfaces thoroughly
- Remove old gasket/sealant with scraper and solvent; dry surfaces.
- Install new bearing and new seal
- If heating bearing: warm in oil or bearing heater per spec (not more than ~80–100°C recommended) for easier install. Use press or bearing driver and press squarely on the correct race (most bearings must be pressed on the inner race for removal/outer for installation depending on application — follow part instructions).
- Install seal by tapping evenly on outer edge until flush; do not distort seal lip.
- Reinstall circlips/shims in correct order and measure endplay if required
- Use feeler gauges or plastigauge to confirm clearance matches manual; adjust shims as required.
- Fit flange back onto shaft
- Coat splines lightly with recommended grease if specified; slide flange on squarely; if hard to fit, don’t hammer — use press or gentle tapping with driver on flange face.
- Torque flange nut/bolts to manufacturer spec
- Use torque wrench to set exact torque. Apply threadlocker where specified. If spec uses torque + angle, use torque angle gauge.
- Check flange runout with dial indicator
- If runout exceeds spec, flange or shaft may be warped — replace.
- Reinstall driveshaft/prop shaft, secure bolts to torque spec, reconnect any links
- Refill gearbox with correct oil to correct level
- Use recommended oil grade and quantity from Perkins or gearbox manual.
- Test run and re-check for leaks and correct operation
- After a short run-in, re-torque fasteners if manual requires; recheck oil level.

- How to decide if part replacement is required (simple rules)
- Replace flange if splines are rounded, flange face is scored or cracked, or runout exceeds tolerance.
- Replace bearings if rough, noisy, or have axial/radial play; don’t risk reusing questionable bearings.
- Replace seals whenever flange is removed.
- Replace studs/nuts if threads are damaged, corroded, or if original nuts are stretch-type.
- Preserve or measure shims; if shims are distorted, replace to achieve correct endplay.

- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Don’t hammer flange directly onto shaft — you can damage splines or bearings.
- Don’t reuse old seals or rounding fasteners; cheap replacement saves rework.
- Don’t guess torque values — obtain OEM specs.
- Don’t skip cleaning mating surfaces — leaks will follow.

- If you lack these recommended tools, what to do
- No press: borrow or rent one from a tool hire or local workshop to press bearings and avoid damage.
- No puller: use a proper flange puller plate or have removal done at a shop rather than improvising with hammers.
- No torque wrench: borrow one; torque is critical to prevent nut failure or bearing preload errors.
- No dial indicator: at minimum visually check runout and compare to new flange; for safety-critical drivelines get runout measured by shop.

- Final notes (brief)
- Obtain the Perkins T6 workshop manual or gearbox supplement for exact torque values, shim stacks, bearing numbers and tolerances before starting.
- If any spline wear, shaft damage, or bearing seat damage is present, replacement of the flange or output shaft (or full gearbox service) may be required — this typically needs a shop.

- Parts you may order (typical list to check)
- Output flange / hub assembly (OEM part number from Perkins dealer)
- Output shaft bearing(s) (matching gearbox bearing numbers)
- Output shaft oil seal(s)
- Circlips / snap rings
- Shims / spacers (if used)
- Flange studs/nuts/washers (new hardware)
- Gasket or RTV sealant
- Gearbox oil of correct spec

No yapping.
rteeqp73

EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)

Perkins 1104D loose tone wheel Wont start.

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