- Safety first: disconnect the negative battery terminal, wear safety glasses and gloves, work on a cool engine, keep rags clear of moving parts, and avoid open flames near diesel vapour.
- What you are doing: Perkins T6.3544 / 6.3544 / 6.3724 are diesel engines — they use glow plugs (heater plugs), not spark plugs. The procedure below is for inspecting, testing, removing and replacing glow plugs.
- Tools — what they are and how to use them:
- 1/2" (or 3/8") ratchet handle: a hand-operated drive for sockets. Use the correct drive size to fit your socket set; attach socket, turn handle clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen.
- Set of deep sockets (metric, including 8 mm–14 mm): sockets fit over the glow plug hex. Deep sockets are needed because the glow plug sits recessed. Try a 10 mm and 12 mm deep socket first; attach to the ratchet and turn slowly to break the glow plug loose.
- Universal joint / swivel adapter: allows the socket to reach glow plugs when the angle to the plug is awkward. Snap it between the ratchet and socket to access angled positions.
- Extension bars (various lengths): extend reach to recessed glow plugs. Pick the shortest extension that gives safe access to avoid wobble.
- Torque wrench (metric, 0–100 Nm range): for final tightening to correct torque. Set the specified torque (see notes below) and tighten until the wrench clicks.
- Insulated long-nose pliers: to remove and refit small electrical connectors and clips without crushing them.
- Multimeter (DC volt/ohm): to test glow plug resistance and to check for voltage at the connector. Set to ohms to measure resistance across glow plug terminals; set to DC volts to check supply voltage while cranking/ignition on.
- Wire brush and clean shop rags: clean around glow plug base and connector areas to prevent debris falling into the port.
- Small flat screwdriver (insulated tip preferred): to gently lever connectors or to help pull off rubber boots; use carefully to avoid damage.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster): to soak seized or corroded glow plugs. Apply and wait per product instructions before attempting removal.
- Anti-seize or copper slip (optional, use only if specified in a manual): some techs lightly coat new plug threads to ease future removal — check Perkins guidance first; if you use it, apply sparingly and keep it off contact surfaces.
- Battery jumper leads or a 12 V power source (for bench testing): connect briefly to check heating element if multimeter is not conclusive — do not hold connected long.
- Glow plug extractor kit (optional, only if plugs snap or are seized): includes specialized extractors to remove a broken/seized glow plug. Use carefully or call a machine shop if unsure.
- Small torch or LED work light: to illuminate work area.
- Pen and masking tape (or labels): to mark and number wires if you need to disconnect several connectors so they go back to the correct plugs.
- Preparatory checks:
- Confirm engine is cool and battery negative terminal is disconnected.
- Locate glow plugs: on the T6 inline six they sit on the head above each cylinder, often under an electrical connector or rubber boot.
- Clean around plugs with brush and rags to prevent debris falling into combustion chamber when plugs come out.
- How to test a glow plug before removing:
- Visual inspection: look for cracked porcelain (if exposed), burned tips, oil/fuel contamination, or carbon build-up.
- Resistance test with multimeter: remove connector from plug, put meter leads on terminal and plug body (or ground). Good glow plugs typically show low resistance (commonly a few ohms). A very high or infinite reading indicates open circuit — replace that plug. (Ranges vary; a working plug is not infinite and typically under a few dozen ohms. Use common-sense: a very high number or OL = bad.)
- Voltage test at harness: with ignition on (glow/stop switch) check for 12 V presence at connector. If voltage present but plug open-circuit — plug bad; if no voltage, problem could be wiring/relay/ECU.
- Bench heat test (optional): briefly apply 12 V to the plug terminal while grounding the body — it should heat quickly. Do not hold for more than a few seconds.
- Removal procedure:
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Remove any engine covers, air ducting or components obstructing access to glow plug connectors.
- Unplug electrical connector or remove rubber boot from each glow plug. Mark wires if necessary.
- Spray a small amount of penetrating oil at the base of seated plugs and let it soak if corrosion suspected (15–30 minutes or per product directions).
- Use deep socket + extension + ratchet (and universal joint if needed) to turn the glow plug counterclockwise. Apply steady pressure; do not rock aggressively. If it feels stuck, apply more penetrating oil and wait.
- If a plug starts to move, back it out slowly and evenly until free. Keep hand on the socket to prevent dropping the plug into the engine bay.
- Inspect sealing washer/crush washer if present — these are often replaced with the plug.
- Installation procedure:
- Clean the plug hole and thread area with a soft brush and rag — do not allow debris to enter the cylinder.
- If the new plug has a copper or crush washer, fit it as required. Replace washers rather than reusing old crushed ones.
- Hand-thread the new glow plug into the cylinder head to avoid cross-threading. Turn by hand until snug.
- Use the torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque. Typical glow plug torque for many diesels is in the 10–30 Nm range; Perkins manuals must be consulted for the exact figure for your model — if you do not have the manual, tighten gently to a firm feel (avoid over-torquing, which strips threads or breaks a plug).
- Reconnect the electrical connector / rubber boot.
- Repeat for each glow plug.
- Refit any removed components and reconnect battery negative.
- Replacement parts — when and why to replace:
- Glow plugs: replace if open circuit (infinite resistance), if visibly burned/damaged, if engine is hard to start in cold conditions, or if one cylinder shows poor combustion.
- Sealing/crush washers: always replace if originally fitted — they ensure correct sealing and prevent leaks or incorrect seating.
- Connector boots and wiring: replace if cracked, corroded or loose. Bad connectors cause intermittent operation.
- Injector or head work: replace only if diagnosis points to injectors or head damage (e.g., leakdown, coolant in cylinder). Glow plug symptoms alone do not require injector replacement.
- If a glow plug is seized or breaks:
- Soak with penetrating oil and gently heat the surrounding metal (careful with nearby wiring/plastics) to expand the head and free threads.
- Use a glow plug extractor kit designed for broken/seized plugs; these bite into the broken stub for removal.
- If the plug threads are damaged, thread repair (Helicoil or similar) or cylinder head machining may be required — get a machine shop and manual guidance.
- Common symptoms indicating glow plug replacement:
- Hard cold starts, extended cranking time, excessive white smoke on start, rough idle after cold start, diagnostic faults for glow/plugs or misfire codes.
- Final checks:
- After fitting new plugs, confirm each connector has voltage when the glow system is activated (and that each plug draws expected current if you can measure).
- Start engine and check for smooth start and idle; recheck for oil/fuel leaks around plug seats.
- Additional tips for a complete beginner:
- Take pictures before disconnecting anything so you can refit correctly.
- Work on one plug at a time to avoid confusion.
- If any step feels beyond your tools/comfort (seized plugs, broken studs, head damage), stop and have a professional cylinder-head technician continue.
- Brief note on torque and exact specs: Perkins-specific torque values and part numbers vary by revision — obtain the official Perkins workshop manual or parts list for the exact torque setting and glow plug part number for your serial number if you want guaranteed accuracy.
- Typical replacement part examples (verify before purchase):
- Glow plug part: Perkins OEM glow plug for 6.354 series (buy OEM or high-quality aftermarket equivalent matched to engine serial).
- Sealing washer: copper/crush washer sized for the glow plug used on the engine.
- Electrical boots/connectors: replacement rubber boots or connector housings if corroded.


rteeqp73

Perkins Phaser 4 Cylinder Non Turbo Donkey Engine PECE T 002 V.

Perkins Daily Engine Check Series: Oil Levels Keep your engine in peak performance with our series of daily engine checks. Oil is one of the most important fluids you will put ...

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