Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set (6–19 mm), ratchet and extensions
- Torque wrench (0–100 N·m)
- Flat-blade screwdriver / gasket scraper (plastic or brass preferred)
- Clean shop rags, brake cleaner or low‑residue solvent
- Drain pan (large capacity)
- Jack and quality jack stands or vehicle lift; wheel chocks
- Rubber or nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- New transmission pan gasket (OEM or exact-fit aftermarket)
- New transmission filter and O‑ring/seal (if unit has filter)
- Correct type and quantity of transmission oil (consult OEM spec)
- RTV sealant (only if specified for that transmission)
- Replacement pan bolts/washers (if original are stretched or sealing washers used)
- Small wire brush or scotch-brite pad
- Magnet pick (optional) for retrieving debris

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Secure vehicle on jack stands or use a lift. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Allow transmission to cool if hot. Hot fluid can cause burns.
- Wear eye protection and nitrile gloves. Avoid skin contact with fluid.
- Contain and properly dispose of used transmission fluid per local regulations.
- Disconnect battery negative if there is any risk of hitting electrical parts.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Preparation
- Park level, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Raise and support vehicle on jack stands so you can access the transmission pan safely.
- Place drain pan beneath the transmission pan; have rags ready.

2. Warm the transmission (optional but helpful)
- If safe to do so, run engine briefly to bring fluid to operating temperature (makes it drain faster). Turn engine off before working underneath.

3. Loosen bolts
- Start by slowly and partially loosening all pan bolts about 2–3 turns each while leaving them threaded. This relieves vacuum and helps spill control.
- Work in small increments so the pan remains supported and doesn’t suddenly dump fluid.

4. Drain the fluid and remove the pan
- Back out the bolts progressively on one side first so the pan tilts and fluid runs into drain pan. Remove bolts and lower the pan carefully.
- If the pan is heavy, use a helper or support it with a jack to lower it evenly.
- Note bolt locations—some pans use different length bolts or a magnet in a specific place.

5. Inspect and remove remnants
- Remove old gasket material from pan flange and transmission housing mating surface. Use a plastic scraper or clean flat blade; avoid gouging the metal.
- Clean pan interior with solvent. Inspect for metal flakes or unusual debris. Remove magnet and clean; note quantity and type of metal particles (fine grey is normal; chunks/bearings are not).
- If a filter is present, remove it now. Inspect filter O‑ring/seal and replace it.

6. Clean mating surfaces
- Use solvent and a lint‑free rag to wipe mating surfaces on both pan and transmission. Use scotch‑brite lightly if needed to remove stubborn gasket residue, then solvent to remove particles.
- Make sure bolt holes are clean and threads not contaminated.

7. Fit new parts
- Install new filter and any required O‑rings per manufacturer instructions. Some filters use a small dab of oil on O‑ring to seat.
- Position new gasket on pan. If gasket is paper/cork, ensure correct orientation. If gasket uses RTV or a small bead of sealant at corners or around dowel pins, apply only where specified by OEM. Do not use continuous heavy RTV unless manual calls for it.

8. Reinstall pan
- Align pan and gasket to transmission. Hand‑thread bolts to avoid cross‑threading; tighten by hand until snug.
- If pan has bolts of different lengths, ensure they go back in original locations.

9. Torque bolts in sequence
- Tighten bolts in a criss‑cross/star pattern gradually in multiple passes to final torque.
- Use the torque wrench set to OEM specification. If you do not have the exact spec, use a conservative torque: small pan bolts typically 8–15 N·m (70–130 in‑lb), larger bolts 18–30 N·m — but confirm with the workshop manual for your specific transmission.
- Do not overtighten; overtorque crushes gaskets and causes warping/leaks.

10. Refill transmission fluid
- Lower vehicle if raised high. Refill with correct type and quantity of transmission oil per OEM spec. Use a clean funnel and pour slowly.
- Start engine and cycle through gears (with foot on brake) where applicable to circulate fluid. Check fluid level per manufacturer procedure (hot/cold level check; dipstick or fill plug procedure).
- Top up to correct level — overfilling or underfilling causes shifting problems and damage.

11. Final checks
- Inspect for leaks around pan. After a short test drive or warm‑up, recheck torque on bolts if recommended and recheck fluid level.
- Clean up spills and dispose of old fluid and filter properly.

How each tool is used (brief)
- Torque wrench: set to specified torque, tighten bolts in sequence with smooth, even pull to avoid overtorque.
- Socket/ratchet: hand‑start bolts, then use for incremental tightening before final torque.
- Gasket scraper/flat screwdriver: remove old gasket carefully; use plastic scraper to avoid scoring.
- Drain pan: positioned under low side of pan; keep spare rags for sloshes.
- Solvent & rags: clean mating surfaces — final surfaces must be dry and oil‑free.
- Jack and stands: lift evenly, place stands under recommended lift points.

Replacement parts required
- New transmission pan gasket (OEM or exact‑fit)
- Transmission filter and O‑ring (if applicable)
- Transmission fluid of the correct specification and quantity
- Optional: pan bolts/washers if originals are damaged or use crush washers

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing old gasket — causes leaks. Always replace gasket.
- Improper cleaning — leaving old gasket residue or dirt causes uneven sealing. Clean to bare, dry metal.
- Overtorquing bolts — strips threads or warps pan; use torque wrench and correct specs.
- Cross‑threading bolts — hand‑thread first to ensure alignment.
- Not replacing filter or O‑ring — leads to contamination and premature failure.
- Using wrong fluid type or wrong fill level — causes shift problems and damage. Confirm fluid spec.
- Not checking bolt lengths/locations — long bolts can contact internal parts; mark and reinstall correctly.
- Not checking for metal debris — heavy metal indicates internal damage; investigate further before reuse.
- Relying on jack only — always use stands; collapse would be dangerous.

Estimated time
- 1–2 hours for experienced technician (including warm‑up, drain, filter change, clean, refill, and checks).

Final note (brief)
- Use the transmission/vehicle workshop manual for the exact torque values, gasket/sealant requirements, filter part numbers, and fluid type specific to the transmission used with your Perkins T6.3544 / 6.3544 / 6.3724 installation.
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Perkins M130C Marine Diesel Engine & Borg Warner Gearbox Demo Run Of Perkins M130C With Borg Warner 1:1 Hydraulic Gearbox.

Perkins engine turnng tool Instruction on how to turn over a Perkins 2000 series engine.

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