1) Prepare
- Gather: correct replacement mounts, engine hoist or support bar + jack and wood block, sockets/wrenches, breaker bar, torque wrench, pry bar, penetrating oil, wire brush, anti-seize or thread locker per manual, safety gear.
- Get the Perkins workshop manual for this engine family for specific bolt sizes and torque values.
- Safety: park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake, disconnect negative battery.

Theory: engine mounts carry static weight and control torque reaction; they also damp and isolate vibration. Proper tooling and torque values are essential to restore factory preload and isolation properties.

2) Assess and document
- Note which mounts are worn (visual cracks, separation, oil saturation, broken studs) and symptoms (excessive vibration, gearbox misalignment, engine movement under load).
- Photograph/mark engine/transmission relationship and mount positions so reassembly returns original alignment.

Theory: establishing how far the engine has sagged and which mounts are load-bearing prevents creating undue stress on driveline or exhaust when swapping mounts.

3) Support the engine
- Place the hoist or engine support bar over lifting points. If using a jack, use a block of wood under the oil pan or oil filter flange area as a load spreader; never support on flexible hoses or the sump seam.
- Raise slightly to take the weight off the mounts but do not fully lift so engine geometry remains near normal. If you must remove multiple mounts, maintain the engine fully supported.

Theory: mounts must be unloaded for safe removal. Maintaining approximate installed height prevents binding of engine-driven components (exhaust, driveshaft, linkages) and preserves alignment.

4) Remove obstructing items
- Remove or move aside intake/exhaust brackets, heat shields, hoses, accessory brackets, alternator/AC compressor/support brackets as needed to access mount bolts.
- Label connectors and lines removed.

Theory: giving clear access avoids forcing or bending other components which can create new faults.

5) Unbolt and remove old mount
- Apply penetrating oil to bolts. Loosen and remove trans/chassis-side fasteners in a controlled sequence so mount can be removed cleanly.
- Keep the engine supported; do not let it sag down onto other components.
- Inspect mounting pads, bracket faces, studs and threads for damage.

Theory: worn/deteriorated rubber or broken studs are the usual failure mode. Oil contamination from valve cover or rocker cover leaks accelerates rubber breakdown; replacing the mount restores the elastomer’s load-bearing and damping properties.

6) Prepare mounting surfaces and hardware
- Clean bracket faces and stud threads with wire brush. Replace any corroded or stretched bolts/studs.
- If studs are damaged, extract and replace using correct parts. Apply anti-seize/thread locker per manual.

Theory: a new mount must sit on flat, clean surfaces to function as intended; uneven seating causes uneven load, early failure, and changed natural frequency.

7) Fit new mount and initial tightening
- Position the new mount; start all bolts by hand to ensure correct threading.
- Set the engine down so the mount takes its share of load but not compressed beyond normal. If required, slightly raise or lower the engine to align bolt holes—do this equally across mounts so geometry remains correct.
- Tighten bolts in the correct sequence to snug, then torque to Perkins specs. If the mount has a compression or installation preload requirement, follow manufacturer instructions (some mounts are preloaded or have a specific orientation).

Theory: correct torque and preload set the mount’s static stiffness and keep the engine at the designed height. Over- or under-torquing changes damping and natural frequency, potentially causing vibration or premature failure.

8) Reassemble removed items
- Refit brackets, hoses and heat shields. Reconnect battery.
- If you removed the alternator, belts, or accessories, set belt tensions per spec.

Theory: restoring original accessory alignment ensures no secondary loads are applied to mounts.

9) Final checks and running test
- With jack/hoist still supporting but engine resting on mounts, torque-check all fasteners.
- Lower engine fully and remove supports.
- Start engine, rev through RPM range and observe for abnormal movement, vibration, noises. Drive test if mounted in vehicle, testing under load to verify mount controls torque reaction.
- Re-torque after a short period of use if manual recommends re-check.

Theory: dynamic testing verifies the mount’s damping restores isolation and torque control under real load. Re-torque accounts for settling of components.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Replaces failed elastomer/hydraulic element that had lost stiffness/damping (from age, oil, heat, overload), restoring isolation of engine vibration from chassis.
- Restores correct engine height and geometry so driveline, exhaust and linkages are not preloaded or misaligned.
- Replaces weakened studs/bolts or corroded seats that previously allowed movement or noise, returning the assembly to designed stiffness and durability.
- Result: reduced vibration/noise, correct torque reaction under acceleration/braking, and lower stress on adjacent components (exhaust, transmission mounts, couplings).

Key cautions (no fluff)
- Never rely on jacks alone without secondary supports; engine weight is dangerous.
- Do not loosen all mounts at once unless engine is fully supported.
- Avoid supporting on oil pan seam or other fragile parts.
- Use correct torque specs and replacement hardware.

End.
rteeqp73

PERKINS 6.354 DIESEL ENGINE TEST RUN PERKINS 6.354 DIESEL ENGINE TEST RUN, FOR SALE Find us on FACEBOOK to purchase and for more Vintage Engines and ...

Machining and Rebuilding A 152 Cubic Inch Perkins Diesel Engine In Under 20 Mins? Okay, maybe it took more than 20 minutes... But I can show you in less than 20 minutes! This quick video shows the machine work ...

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- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, heat-resistant gloves, and long sleeves.
- Work on a cold engine and exhaust (cool for several hours). Hot exhaust will burn you.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid shorting or ECU errors.
- If you must lift the machine, use an appropriate jack and rated jack stands or ramps rated for the vehicle’s weight; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.

- What an oxygen (lambda) sensor does and why replacement may be required
- Monitors oxygen in exhaust to help the engine control unit (ECU) manage air/fuel and emissions.
- Symptoms of a failing sensor: illuminated fault lamp/engine management light, poor fuel economy, rough idle, increased smoke or emissions, failed emission test, or diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
- Replacement is required when the sensor is faulty, physically damaged, contaminated, or when diagnostics/ECU codes indicate failure. Replacing a dead sensor restores correct feedback to the ECU and improves fuel efficiency and emissions control.

- How to confirm a faulty sensor before replacing (recommended)
- Use an OBD or engine diagnostic scanner compatible with Perkins (workshop tool or a generic OBD-II depending on year) to read fault codes; look for lambda/oxygen sensor codes or downstream sensor/NOx if equipped.
- Use a multimeter to confirm sensor wiring continuity or heater element resistance (if heated sensor). Expect a heater resistance of a few ohms to tens of ohms depending on sensor type — check manual/specs.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Oxygen sensor socket (22 mm or 7/8" slotted 12-point): A thin-walled socket with a cut-out for the sensor wire. Use with a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove/install the sensor without crushing the harness.
- Ratchet (3/8" drive recommended) and breaker bar (optional): Ratchet for normal turning; breaker bar for seized sensors that need more torque. Use the breaker bar carefully to avoid snapping the sensor or studs.
- Torque wrench (3/8" or 1/2" drive depending on socket): To tighten the new sensor to the correct torque. If you don’t have one, tighten to firm hand-tight plus a small quarter turn; this is not ideal — best to use a torque wrench.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40, PB Blaster): Spray on seized or corroded sensor threads and allow soak time to free threads.
- Wire brush or small wire wheel: Clean the threads and mating surface on the exhaust before fitting the new sensor.
- Anti-seize compound (sensor-rated, very small amount): Prevents future seizure. Many new sensors are pre-coated; don’t use if the sensor comes with factory anti-seize. Apply only to threads, not to the sensor tip.
- Dielectric grease: Put a tiny amount on the inside of the electrical connector to repel moisture (do not apply to sensor tip).
- Small pick or electrical contact cleaner: To clean the connector pins if corroded.
- Multimeter: For checking wiring continuity or heater circuit resistance if diagnosing before replacement.
- OBD/Electronic diagnostic scanner (recommended): To clear codes and verify the new sensor resolves the fault.
- Floor jack and appropriately rated jack stands or vehicle ramps (if sensor is under the vehicle): Safely lift and support the vehicle to access the sensor.
- Safety stand/wood block (optional): For supporting parts or exhaust if you need to lower any pipe to reach the sensor.
- Heat shield pliers or locking pliers (optional): For difficult-to-access connectors or clips.
- Replacement parts and consumables: New oxygen sensor (correct OE or equivalent), possibly a new gasket or copper washer if the application uses one, anti-seize, and replacement zip ties or protective conduit if wiring is damaged.

- Why some extra tools may be required
- Breaker bar: If the sensor is seized/corroded; extra leverage needed.
- Jack and stands: Access to underside sensors requires raising the vehicle safely.
- Diagnostic scanner: To confirm the correct sensor (upstream vs downstream vs NOx) and clear/verify codes.
- Torque wrench: Ensures correct torque so the sensor seals without stripping threads.

- Choosing the correct replacement part
- Buy the sensor using the engine serial/model and equipment application (machine model/year) or the old sensor part number. Perkins parts catalog or dealer lookup is best.
- Match connector type, thread size (commonly M18x1.5 on many sensors), wire count (1–5 wires: 1–2 = unheated, 3–4 = heated or with signal/ground, 5 = some NOx sensors), and sensor type (lambda, NOx, differential).
- Prefer OEM Perkins sensors or high-quality aftermarket brands (Bosch, Denso, NGK) specified for that Perkins engine model.
- If the sensor is a NOx sensor (common on later diesel engines with SCR), use the exact NOx sensor specified — these are not interchangeable with basic O2 sensors.

- Step-by-step replacement procedure (beginner-friendly)
- Prepare
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Let engine and exhaust cool completely.
- Raise and support vehicle on jack stands if sensor is under the vehicle.
- Locate the sensor
- Follow the exhaust from the manifold/turbo turbine outlet along the downpipe. The sensor is screwed into the exhaust pipe/manifold and has a wiring harness routed to the ECU.
- Identify whether it’s upstream (before turbo/catalyst), downstream (after turbo/catalyst), or a NOx sensor (often in the aftertreatment system) so you buy the correct replacement.
- Access and unplug
- Clean dirt around the connector so debris doesn’t fall into the opening when removed.
- Unplug the electrical connector: press the locking tab and pull. If stuck, use electrical contact cleaner and a small pick to depress the clip—avoid pulling the wires.
- Trace and unclip any harness retainers so there’s slack to remove the sensor.
- Loosen and remove the old sensor
- Spray penetrating oil on the sensor base/threads. Wait 10–20 minutes for stubborn corrosion.
- Fit the oxygen sensor socket over the sensor body with the wire in the socket slot, attach ratchet or breaker bar.
- Turn counterclockwise to break it free. Use the breaker bar if needed but pull straight to avoid snapping the sensor or damaging threads.
- Remove sensor and set aside.
- Prepare mating surface
- Clean threads and seat area on exhaust with wire brush to remove rust and carbon.
- If the exhaust threads or flange are badly damaged, stop and consider replacing the pipe/stud or getting professional help.
- Fit the new sensor
- Confirm the new sensor: same number of wires and connector type.
- If the sensor isn’t pre-coated, apply a VERY SMALL amount of sensor-rated anti-seize compound to the threads only (avoid the sensor tip and the first few threads near the tip).
- Thread the new sensor in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Hand-start all threads fully.
- Tighten to the manufacturer torque (consult Perkins manual). Typical O2 sensor torque is roughly 30–50 Nm depending on thread size—use the torque wrench. If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten firmly by ratchet then give a small additional 1/8–1/4 turn; do not over-torque.
- Reconnect wiring and secure harness
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside the connector (not on the terminals) if desired.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it locks.
- Re-secure harness with clips or new zip ties; ensure the cable is routed away from hot surfaces and moving parts.
- Test and finish
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Lower the vehicle if raised.
- Use the diagnostic scanner to clear codes and run the engine. Verify no new fault codes appear and that the engine runs normally.
- Dispose of the old sensor as electronic waste per local regulations.

- Additional parts that may be needed and why
- Replacement oxygen/NOx sensor: required if the old sensor is faulty.
- New gasket or copper washer: some sensor fittings use a sealing washer; replace if the old one is damaged or missing.
- Short section of protective conduit or new zip ties: if wiring insulation is damaged, replace to prevent future electrical faults.
- Replacement exhaust studs or pipe flange: if threads are corroded or damaged, you may need to repair or replace the exhaust mating parts to ensure a proper seal.
- New wiring harness/connector: if the connector or wiring is burned, corroded, or damaged.

- Troubleshooting common problems
- Sensor won’t budge: soak more penetrating oil, try from a different angle, use a longer breaker bar, and apply steady force. If the sensor or stud snaps, professional repair is recommended.
- New sensor throws code after install: check wiring/connector and ensure correct sensor type/position. Clear codes and re-run diagnostics.
- Exhaust leak at sensor: ensure threads are clean, use correct washer/gasket, and tighten to the correct torque.

- Final tips (concise)
- Always match the exact sensor type and connector; sensor wiring differs by function.
- Keep the sensor wiring away from the turbo and hot pipes; secure harness routing as originally fitted.
- Use the Perkins workshop manual or parts diagram when in doubt about sensor location, thread size, and torque specs.
- If unsure about lifting or seizing issues, consider a mechanic or Perkins dealer to avoid damage.

- Disposal and environmental note
- Old sensors contain metals and electronics; dispose through an auto-parts recycler or hazardous-waste facility per local rules.

No extra questions asked.
rteeqp73