Tools & supplies
- O2 sensor socket (slotted 22 mm / 7/8" or 22–24 mm thin-wall; for metric Toyota sensors usually M18x1.5 thread) or 1/2" drive oxygen-sensor crowfoot
- 1/2" ratchet + breaker bar + appropriate extensions and swivel
- Torque wrench (capable of ~10–60 N·m / 8–45 ft·lb)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40 Specialist penetrating oil)
- Anti‑seize compound (sensor‑safe; do NOT contaminate sensor tip)
- Small pick/flat screwdriver for connector clips
- Safety glasses, gloves, long sleeves
- Wheel chocks, jack and jack stands or loader frame support (if lifting)
- Multimeter or OBD‑II scanner (to read/clear codes and verify heater circuit)
- Dielectric grease or electrical contact cleaner (for connector)
- Replacement oxygen sensor(s) — exact OEM or correct aftermarket heated/unheated sensor matching original (upstream/pre‑cat vs downstream/post‑cat)

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work on level ground, parking brake on, wheels chocked. Lower boom and lock-out hydraulic systems per machine manual.
- Allow exhaust and engine to cool completely. Exhaust can be >500 °C after operation.
- Use jack stands or a vehicle support rated for the machine if you must raise it — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid shorts and to prevent accidental engine cranking.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Be careful with penetrating oil and hot components.

Step‑by‑step replacement
1. Preparation
- Park the loader on level ground, chock wheels, shut off engine, remove key, and allow the exhaust to cool fully.
- Lower and secure any attachments and place machine in the service/lock position per manual.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2. Locate the O2 sensor
- Identify the sensor to be replaced: upstream (pre‑catalytic converter) or downstream (post‑cat). On Toyota skid steers the sensor(s) are threaded into the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe/downpipe — follow the exhaust from the engine to locate the sensor with wiring harness and connector.

3. Access & inspect
- Raise the machine only if needed and safe; support with stands.
- Inspect the wiring harness and connector for damage, corrosion, or melted insulation. Repair the harness if damaged before replacing the sensor.

4. Disconnect electrical connector
- Release the connector clip (use a small screwdriver or pick if needed). Don’t pull on wires; pull on the connector body.

5. Free the sensor
- Spray penetrating oil on the sensor threads and let soak 5–10 minutes (longer if seized). Tap lightly on the sensor body with a hammer to help penetration if necessary.

6. Remove the sensor
- Fit the oxygen sensor socket (slotted to accept the wire) onto the sensor hex. Use a ratchet or breaker bar and turn counterclockwise. If extremely tight, use penetrating oil and steady force — avoid sudden jerks that can snap the sensor.
- If the sensor snaps or the hex rounds, stop; extractors or cutting may be required and can damage the exhaust if done improperly — consider professional help.

7. Compare old vs new
- Verify the new sensor matches the old one: same thread size, heated vs unheated, connector type and wire length. If heater wires exist on the old sensor, the replacement must have them too.

8. Prep the new sensor
- If the new sensor does NOT come with anti‑seize on the threads, apply a very small amount of sensor‑safe anti‑seize to the threads only — do not get any on the sensor tip.
- Do not use standard anti‑seize that contains metallic particles that can affect readings; many OEM sensors come pre‑coated — check packaging.

9. Install the sensor
- Thread by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Once hand‑tight, torque to the manufacturer spec. If you don’t have the exact spec, typical torque for an M18 sensor is around 30–40 N·m (22–30 ft·lb) — confirm exact figure in the SDK10 workshop manual. Do not over‑torque.

10. Reconnect harness
- Clean connector pins if corroded, apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector (outside pins) and connect until the locking tab engages. Secure wiring away from hot exhaust with ties or clips.

11. Reconnect battery and test
- Reconnect negative battery cable.
- Start engine and check for exhaust leaks at the sensor thread area. Monitor for abnormal smoke or smells.
- Use an OBD‑II scanner to read for existing O2 sensor fault codes (P0xxx). Clear codes after repair and do a function test: with engine warm, live data for upstream sensor should switch voltage (gasoline engines ~0.1–0.9 V) and heater circuit should be within spec; downstream sensor should be steadier if post-cat.

12. Final checks
- Road/operational test the loader, monitor diagnostic system for recurrence of codes, and re‑inspect harness routing and securing.
- Dispose of old sensor per local regulations (contains metals).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Sensor snaps off in the exhaust: prevent by using penetrating oil, patient soaking, and correct socket. If seized, apply heat cautiously or use an impact to break corrosion (professional help recommended to avoid thread damage).
- Cross‑threading: always start by hand.
- Using wrong sensor: match heated/unheated type, connector, thread and wire length.
- Over‑applying anti‑seize (especially on the sensor tip): ruins sensor readings. Use only sensor‑safe compound on threads if necessary.
- Damaging harness when pulling on wires: always pull the connector body.
- Forgetting to clear codes or verify heater circuit: will leave MIL on. Use scanner to confirm.
- Tightening to wrong torque: can strip exhaust threads or crack sensor housing — use correct spec from the service manual.

Replacement parts required
- Correct oxygen sensor(s) for the SDK10 engine (upstream and/or downstream as needed). Buy OEM part numbers or quality aftermarket equivalent; ensure heated vs unheated match original.
- If wiring or connector is corroded/damaged: repair kit or replacement harness/connector.
- Anti‑seize (sensor‑safe) and possibly electrical contact cleaner/dielectric grease.

Notes
- Consult the Toyota SDK10 workshop manual for exact sensor locations, electrical schematics, connector pinouts, and the specified torque value for the sensor threads.
- If you’re not comfortable removing a seized sensor or working under the machine, have a certified technician perform the replacement.

Done.
rteeqp73

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