Notes up front: assume you are replacing/inspecting the engine main bearings (crankshaft mains) on Toyota SGK6 / SDK6 / SDK8 skid‑steer engines. Always use the OEM workshop manual for exact torque, bearing part numbers and clearances for your serial number. Below is a practical, workshop‑tested step‑by‑step procedure, tools, safety, and pitfalls.

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface, chock machine, engage parking brake and disconnect battery negative.
- Drain engine oil and coolant into approved containers and dispose/recycle per regulations.
- Use a rated engine hoist and lifting slings when removing the engine. Securely support engine on an engine stand before working.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel‑toe boots. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
- Tag and organize fasteners and parts. Use clean rags and a lint‑free environment for bearings and journals.
- If using compressed air or solvents, follow respiratory and fire safety rules.

Tools and consumables needed
- Full metric hand tool set (sockets, ratchets, extensions, breaker bar, torque wrench capable to spec).
- Engine hoist and engine stand.
- Service/repair manual for model (for torque specs, sequences, clearances).
- Micrometer (outside) to measure crankshaft journal diameter (0.01 mm or .0001” resolution recommended).
- Dial bore gauge (or inside micrometer) to measure bearing bores.
- Plastigauge (various sizes) and Plastigauge chart.
- Feeler gauges and straight edge.
- Torque wrench and possibly angle gauge (if bolts are torque‑to‑yield).
- Soft dead‑blow hammer, pry bars.
- Shop press (if removing/pressing cams, pulleys).
- Clean rags, solvent, gasket scraper, brake cleaner.
- Assembly lube, engine oil.
- New main bearing set(s), thrust washers, main bearing caps if damaged, main cap bolts or studs (replace if required), crankshaft oil seals, gaskets, new oil pump if worn.
- Replacement parts: OEM main bearings (complete set), thrust washers, main cap bolts (if one‑time stretch type), front/rear crank seals, oil gasket set, oil filter, engine oil and coolant.
- Optional: torque angle gauge, plastigauge holder, magnetic tray.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Preparation and documentation
- Obtain the workshop manual and record torque specs, torque sequence, and bearing clearance specs for your engine serial number.
- Label and photograph connections, wiring, hoses, linkages for reassembly.

2. Remove engine or access to crankshaft
- Remove attachments: radiator, fan, alternator, hydraulic pump (if mounted), intake/exhaust manifolds, timing cover/gear, timing belt/chain, oil pan, oil pump (if required), flywheel/flexplate, and anything obstructing lower block access.
- Use hoist to lift engine out if working off‑machine or to tilt for access. Place on engine stand.

3. Remove oil pan and sump components
- Drain oil (already done), remove oil pan bolts and clean mating surfaces for inspection.

4. Remove main caps and inspect
- Note and tag main caps so they go back in same orientation. Follow the cap removal sequence recommended by manual (usually progressively, not all at once).
- Loosen cap bolts in sequence to avoid distortion.
- Remove caps and bearing shells. Inspect shells for scoring, discoloration, embedded particles, or collapse.

5. Inspect crankshaft journals and measure
- Clean journals with solvent and lint‑free cloth.
- Visually inspect journals for scoring, grooves, heat discoloration or out‑of‑round.
- Use micrometer to measure journal diameters at several points (front, middle, rear, top/bottom) and record.
- Use dial bore gauge to measure bearing bores in block and caps.
- Calculate bearing oil clearance: journal diameter subtracted from bearing bore (or use Plastigauge as below). Compare to manual limits. If journals are out of spec (scored, tapered, under‑size) you will need crankshaft grinding (undersize) or replacement.

6. Check crank runout (optional but recommended)
- Mount crank and use dial indicator on a journal to check runout. Excessive runout means crankshaft replacement or re‑grinding.

7. Decide repair: replace bearings vs. regrind
- If journals within spec and minor marks, bearings can be replaced. If journals are scored/tapered beyond limits, machine shop work (turn undersize journals and use undersize bearings) or crankshaft replacement is required.
- Replace thrust washers if worn.

8. Clean oil passages and components
- Thoroughly clean oil passages in block and caps. Blow out with low‑pressure compressed air (protect eyes). Remove any debris or bearing material.

9. Installing new bearings and checking clearance with Plastigauge
- Install new bearing shells into block and caps — snuggly, correct orientation (oil hole/alignment tabs). Do not lubricate the Plastigauge area; install dry shells unless the manual says to oil.
- Cut a piece of Plastigauge about the width of the journal (do not stretch). Place on the cleaned crank journal — one strip per journal.
- Refit cap with bearing shell (do not move the crank). Tighten cap bolts to the specified torque exactly in the correct sequence — if bolts are torque‑to‑yield replace them and follow angle procedure.
- Remove cap carefully (do not rotate crank with Plastigauge between surfaces).
- Measure flattened Plastigauge width against chart to get clearance value. Repeat for each main journal.
- Compare measured clearance to manual spec. If clearance too tight -> undersize bearings or machining required. Too loose -> check for worn bores, incorrect bearing size, or damaged crank.

10. Final bearing installation
- If clearances are acceptable and journals OK, apply assembly lube to bearing faces and journals.
- Fit bearing shells into block and caps, apply light assembly lube to shells and journals.
- Install main caps in proper order and orientation. Torque main cap bolts in correct sequence and in stages to final torque per manual. If bolts are new torque‑to‑yield, follow angle tightening.
- Recheck endplay/thrust: install thrust washers and measure crank end‑float with a dial indicator. Compare to spec.

11. Reassemble related components
- Replace oil pump or its gears if worn; prime pump and ensure pickup screen is clean.
- Fit new oil seals, gasket sets, oil pan and torque bolts in sequence to spec.
- Reinstall timing gears, covers, flywheel, manifolds, accessories, and reconnect hoses/wiring.
- Refill with correct grade oil, new filter, and coolant.

12. Startup and break‑in
- Pre‑lubricate engine by priming oil system if possible (crank with starter without injecting fuel for diesel or as per manual).
- Start engine and check for oil pressure, leaks, and abnormal noises. Bring to operating temp and recheck torque on accessible bolts if manual recommends.
- Follow recommended break‑in procedure (avoid heavy load for first hours, change oil after initial run if instructed).

How key tools are used
- Plastigauge: place strip on journal, torque cap, remove cap, measure flattened width against chart to obtain oil clearance. Single use; handle carefully (don’t smear).
- Micrometer and dial bore gauge: micrometer measures journal diameter; dial bore measures bearing bores or cap bores. Use multiple readings and average.
- Torque wrench: use calibrated torque wrench; tighten in stages and in specified sequence. If bolts are torque‑to‑yield, replace new bolts and use angle gauge.
- Dial indicator: measure crankshaft runout and endplay. Mount probe on stable point and rotate crank to measure runout.
- Engine hoist and stand: hoist lifts engine; engine stand provides stable working orientation for crank rotation and measurement.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing bearings or caps without cleaning — always use new bearings; clean thoroughly.
- Not following torque sequence or final torque — causes distortion and bearing failure.
- Rotating crank with Plastigauge installed — destroys reading.
- Not checking for crank journal scoring/taper — replacing bearings without addressing journal damage causes rapid failure.
- Reusing stretch bolts — always replace one‑time‑use bolts.
- Contamination in oil passages — flush and clean every passage.
- Incorrect bearing orientation — bearings have oil grooves; align correctly.
- Using wrong bearing size — measure journals and bores, check part numbers.
- Poor lubrication on reassembly — use assembly lube and prime oil pump before first start.
- Ignoring thrust washers/endplay — excessive endplay causes axial movement and gear/flexplate damage.

Replacement parts typically required
- Main bearing set (complete for engine) — OEM or equivalent.
- Thrust washers.
- Main cap bolts/stud kit (if specified as single‑use).
- Front and rear crankshaft oil seals.
- Oil pan gasket and related gaskets.
- Oil pump (recommended inspection; replace if worn).
- Engine oil and filter.
- Any undersize bearings if crank has been ground.

Final checks
- Confirm all clearances and torques match the manual.
- Verify oil pressure at idle and under load during initial run.
- Reinspect for leaks and abnormal noises after first run and again after break‑in oil change.

End.
rteeqp73

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