Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, hammer, brass drift.
- Torque wrench (range to cover 5–300 Nm or as required).
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers (internal & external).
- Bearing puller / three‑jaw puller or hydraulic extractor.
- 10–30 ton shop press or hydraulic press with appropriate adapters.
- Bearing drivers / receiver tubes or arbor plates (range to match bearing OD/ID).
- Heat source: bearing oven or induction heater / hot oil bath (do not exceed 120°C).
- Cold source: freezer or dry ice (optional) for shaft cooling.
- Soft jaws or blocks (bronze/nylon) to support housings & shafts.
- Dial indicator & magnetic base, calipers, feeler gauges.
- Punch set, drift pins, dead blow hammer.
- Seal driver set, new seals, gaskets, O‑rings.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, solvent, lint‑free wipes.
- Gear oil/hydraulic oil & oil pan for draining/refill, grease as specified.
- Threadlocker (blue/medium) and anti‑seize.
- Replacement parts: new input shaft bearing(s) (OEM part numbers), bearing spacer if used, circlips/snap rings, shaft seals, gaskets, mounting bolts (replace if torque‑to‑yield), cotter pins.
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots, hearing protection.

Safety precautions (must do)
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
2. Relieve and lock out hydraulic pressure, lower attachment to ground, shut off engine and remove key. Disconnect battery negative.
3. Support machine securely on rated jack stands or lift; never rely on hydraulics alone.
4. Drain hydraulic/transmission/gear oil into proper container and dispose per regulations.
5. Use proper lifting gear (engine/transmission hoist or lift) rated for weight when removing heavy components.
6. Wear eye protection; use gloves and avoid loose clothing around rotating parts.
7. Work in a well‑ventilated area and clean oil spills immediately to prevent slips.

Overview of procedure (what you’re doing)
- Remove any attachments, wheels/hubs and external components to gain access to gearbox / final drive where input shaft bearing is located.
- Remove retaining devices and separate housings to expose input shaft.
- Extract input shaft or bearing from housing using puller/press.
- Press out old bearing, inspect shaft/housing, fit new bearing (and seals), reassemble, set preload/end play, torque to spec, refill fluids and test.

Step‑by‑step procedure
Note: Model‑specific fastener locations, torque values, and disassembly order vary. Use the SGK6/SDK6/SDK8 workshop manual for exact fasteners/torques. The following is the standard workshop method.

1) Preparation
- Block machine, bleed hydraulics to safe state, disconnect battery.
- Remove operator cab/panels as needed for access.
- Place drain pan and drain gear/hydrostatic oil from gearbox/final drive.

2) Remove drive components
- Remove wheel/hub assembly (if applicable), brakes, sprockets, chains, couplings that attach to input shaft.
- Tag and bag fasteners/parts to keep them organized.

3) Separate housings / covers
- Remove gearbox cover, end covers, bearing caps, or case bolts to expose the input shaft bearing area.
- Take photos/mark alignment dowel positions to ensure correct reassembly orientation.

4) Remove retaining hardware
- Remove snap rings, locking nuts, washers, castle nuts and cotter pins securing the input shaft and bearing assemblies.
- If there is a pilot bearing/retainer, remove it.

5) Extract the input shaft (if required)
- Support housing with soft jaws. Use a puller on the shaft flange or a slide hammer with appropriate adapter to withdraw the shaft straight. If the shaft is pressed into gears, use an arbor press to push shaft out from opposite side.
- Use care not to damage splines or seating faces.

6) Remove old bearing
- If bearing remains on shaft: mount shaft in press with support under shoulder; use bearing puller or press to push bearing off the shaft by applying force to the bearing inner race (or outer race depending on direction of removal). Rule: always press on the race you are pressing towards — when removing a bearing from a shaft, press on the inner race to avoid damaging rollers.
- If bearing remains in housing: use an internal/external puller or expanders and pull straight out. For tight housings, heat the housing slightly (controlled) to expand and ease removal.

7) Clean & inspect
- Clean shaft, housing, bores and mating faces with solvent. Inspect shaft journals, keyways, splines and housing bores for pitting, scoring or wear. Measure OD/ID with calipers. If damage exceeds tolerances replace or machine as required.
- Check bearing spacer, shoulder dimensions and end play. Replace snap rings and spacers if deformed.

8) Prepare new parts
- Verify new bearing part number and orientation. Replace seals, gaskets and snap rings.
- Pre‑fit bearing onto shaft only after confirming fit and clearance.

9) Install new bearing onto shaft
- Best practice: heat bearing to ~80–100°C (do not exceed 120°C) in controlled oven or hot oil bath to expand inner race slightly; alternatively cool shaft. Use bearing heater or oven; do not use open flame. Use bearing driver that bears on inner race to press onto shaft; press squarely and slowly until seat. If pressing bearing into housing, apply force to outer race only.
- Use correct diameter driver or socket ring that contacts only the intended race. Never hammer on rollers.
- If using cold shrink (freezer/dry ice) cool the shaft for 20–30 min, then slide bearing on quickly.

10) Install bearing into housing (if applicable)
- Seat bearing into housing with driver that contacts outer race only. Press straight and square until seated on shoulder. Use soft blocks to support housing.

11) Fit seals & retainers
- Fit new oil seals with seal driver, install new snap rings, washers, spacers and torque nuts to manufacturer spec. Use threadlocker per manual where specified.
- If the assembly uses preload (tapered bearings), set preload with specified torque and measure rotational torque or use manufacturer procedure. For angular contact/tapered bearings measure preload with a torque wrench or use shims if required.

12) Check end play & alignment
- Install shaft into housing and check axial end play with dial indicator per specifications. Adjust shims or torque nut to achieve correct endplay/preload.
- Rotate the shaft by hand, feel for smoothness and absence of binding. Measure runout if required.

13) Reassemble carriers and external components
- Refit covers/gaskets, torque housing bolts to spec, reattach brakes, hubs, sprockets and couplings. Replace any worn fasteners.
- Refill gearbox/hydro oil to correct level and specification.

14) Final checks
- Reconnect battery. Start engine and run at low idle, check for leaks and abnormal noises. Operate slowly under no load initially and cycle through functions to circulates oil.
- Recheck torque on fasteners after a short run (per manufacturer re‑torque interval).
- Road/test‑operate under light load before returning to full duty.

How the main tools are used (details)
- Bearing puller: Attach puller jaws evenly to bearing OD or retainer flange, centralize the forcing screw on shaft end. Tighten slowly to extract. Use a backup plate to protect housing.
- Hydraulic/shop press: Use press plates and arbor that contact only appropriate race. Support shaft/housing on soft jaws to avoid distortion. Apply steady pressure; back off occasionally to re‑center parts if needed.
- Bearing driver / seal driver: Select driver that matches the OD/ID of the race to be driven. Strike with dead blow or use press for even seating. Driver must contact only the race being moved.
- Heat methods: Oven or induction heater — heat bearing evenly to target temperature (80–100°C). Avoid overheating seals or lubricant inside bearing (bearing grease packaging reduces life). Do not exceed 120°C.
- Snap‑ring pliers: Use correct size to avoid deforming the ring. Ensure ring fully seats in groove.

Replacement parts to buy
- OEM input shaft bearing (primary item) — replace with exact OEM or equivalent high‑quality bearing.
- Shaft seals and O‑rings (replace all seals exposed during work).
- Snap rings, retaining washers, spacers, and gaskets (use new gaskets or RTV when required).
- Fasteners specified as single‑use (if any) — replace torque‑to‑yield bolts.
- Gear/hydraulic oil and grease per spec.
- Optional: replace adjacent bearings if wear is evident.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Pressing on wrong race: Always press on the correct race (inner when mounting to shaft; outer when seating into housing). Pressing on rollers will destroy bearing.
- Overheating bearings: Don’t exceed recommended thermal limits; overheating can ruin bearing grease and hardness.
- Reusing seals or snap rings: Replace seals and retention hardware. Old seals leak.
- Not measuring end play/preload: Incorrect preload causes premature failure or noise. Use dial indicator and follow manual procedure.
- Contamination: Keep everything clean—dirt/debris kills bearings quickly. Use lint‑free wipes and keep opened bearings in clean environment.
- Improper support: Support housing and shaft properly during pressing to avoid bending shafts or distorting housings.
- Wrong torque values: Always use correct torque specs. Over/under torquing affects bearing preload and retaining.
- Skipping inspection: Don’t ignore shaft scoring or housing ovality—installing a new bearing on a damaged shaft will cause rapid failure.
- Not replacing oil: Installing new bearing without fresh lubricant will reduce life. Use correct grade and volume.

Testing & break‑in
- After assembly, rotate shaft by hand to confirm smooth travel. Run machine at idle, check for leaks and unusual vibration, then test under light load. Recheck oil level after warm‑up and again after 8–10 hours of operation; re‑torque critical fasteners if manual prescribes.

Final note
- Follow the SGK6/SDK6/SDK8 workshop manual for exact disassembly order, torque values, shim thicknesses and bearing part numbers. If any shaft or housing damage exceeds service limits, replacement or machining is required.

No Yapping.
rteeqp73

Toyota 2sdk8 skid steer loader

BUYING THE CHEAPEST SKID STEER ON MARKETPLACE THATS BEEN SITTING FOR YEARS...WILL IT RUN?? IN THIS VIDEO WE DO A SUPER CLEAN GIVAWAY AND RESCUE A OLD 90'S TOYOTA SDK 7 DIESEL SKID STEER THAT HAS ...

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