Tools & PPE
- 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar (long handle helps).
- Serpentine-belt tool or a long 3/8" or 1/2" breaker bar (or a stiff 12–18" box-end wrench) sized to fit the tensioner square/bolt.
- Metric socket set (common Toyota sizes: 10, 12, 14, 17 mm).
- 6" extension.
- Torque wrench (for reinstalling any tensioner/idler bolts).
- Flashlight, inspection mirror.
- Gloves, safety glasses.
- Jack and jack stands or ramps if additional clearance is needed; wheel chocks.
- New serpentine belt (correct OEM/aftermarket part for your vehicle/engine), and optional replacement tensioner/idler(s) if worn.

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on a cold engine with ignition off and key out. Remove negative battery cable if you will be working near electronics or if you will remove the tensioner.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels. Use jack stands if the front of car is raised.
- Keep fingers and tools clear of pulleys when tension is released. Hold the tensioner tool securely — the spring can snap back.
- Never start the engine with the belt loose or partially installed.
- Use correct tools; rounded fasteners are a common cause of injury and damage.

Preparation & inspection
1. Locate the belt routing diagram — under the hood, on the radiator support, or in the service manual. If none, sketch or take a photo before removal.
2. Inspect the existing belt: look for cracks, fraying, glazing, missing ribs, or oil contamination. Inspect idler pulleys and tensioner for noise/play and bearing wear. Replace tensioner/idlers if noisy or if bearings play.
3. Gather the replacement belt (match part number and rib count). If the belt is worn, replace the tensioner and idler(s) at the same time if mileage is high (>60–90k) or they show wear.

Removal (step‑by‑step)
1. Access: remove any engine covers or splash shields that block access to the belt.
2. Note/confirm routing: refer to the diagram/photo. Start with the belt routed over accessories so reinstallation is straightforward.
3. Locate the automatic tensioner (spring-loaded pulley). Identify the square hole or bolt head used for rotating the tensioner.
4. Fit your belt tool or breaker bar into the tensioner engagement point. Most Toyota tensioners are released by rotating the tool counterclockwise (but check direction — you only need enough movement to relieve tension).
- How to use the tool: insert the tool square into the tensioner, pull in the correct direction to rotate and compress the tensioner spring. Hold the tensioner in the compressed position.
5. While holding the tensioner compressed, slide the belt off one easy-to-access pulley (usually the idler or alternator). Carefully ease the tensioner back to full spring position with the belt removed. Do not let fingers get between tool and engine when releasing.
6. Remove the belt completely and compare routing/length with the new belt.

Inspection after removal
- Spin idlers by hand; listen for roughness. Check tensioner movement: it should move smoothly and return crisply; if sloppy or noisy, replace it.

Installation (step‑by‑step)
1. Route the new belt around all pulleys except the one that will be last (typically the tensioner or an accessible idler). Follow the routing diagram exactly.
2. Double-check that each rib is seated in the pulley grooves and none are on the pulley lip. Make sure accessory pulleys (A/C, power steering, alternator, etc.) are correctly engaged.
3. Insert the tensioner tool into the tensioner and rotate it to compress the spring the same way you did to remove.
4. While holding the tensioner compressed, slip the belt onto the final pulley. Confirm the belt is fully seated on every pulley.
5. Slowly release the tensioner so it applies tension to the belt.
6. With the belt installed, rotate the crankshaft by hand two full revolutions (use a socket on the crank pulley) to set the belt and check alignment. Re-inspect belt seating on all pulleys.
7. If you removed any components or covers, reinstall and torque bolts to spec.

Final checks & common pitfalls
- Do not route the belt incorrectly—common mistake: swapping the path over the tensioner/alternator or skipping a hidden idler under intake plumbing. Always use routing diagram/photo.
- Avoid using too short/long a belt—verify part number and rib count. A belt that fits loosely will slip; one that’s too tight can damage bearings.
- Don’t reuse a belt with visible damage. Belts are inexpensive compared to damage caused by a thrown belt.
- Replace tensioner/idler if they show noise, wobble, or slowed return — reusing a tired tensioner invites premature failure.
- Use correct tool orientation and sufficient leverage; rounded tensioner engagement points are usually 3/8" or 1/2" square. Using the wrong adapter can round it off—use the correct drive.
- If a tensioner or idler bolt was removed, torque to the vehicle manufacturer’s spec (refer to service manual) — do not guess.

Replacement parts recommended
- OEM or equivalent serpentine belt sized for your engine.
- Tensioner assembly and/or idler pulleys if worn, noisy, or if vehicle mileage is high.
- Small fasteners if any are damaged during removal.

That’s the procedure. Follow the vehicle-specific service manual torque specs and routing diagram for exact details for your Toyota with the A442F trans.
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