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Toyota A442F Automatic Transmission factory workshop and repair manual

1) Quick theory (why the serpentine belt matters)
- The serpentine belt is a single continuous belt that transmits engine crankshaft torque to engine accessories: alternator (charging), power‑steering pump, A/C compressor, and any idler/water‑pump when so driven.
- A spring‑loaded tensioner keeps correct belt tension and compensates for stretch; idler pulleys keep the belt on the correct path and maintain wrap angle.
- Failure modes: glazing, cracking, missing ribs, contamination (oil/coolant), or weak/failed tensioner/pulley → slip, squeal, loss of charging, loss of power steering, A/C failure, overheating or compressor damage depending on what the belt drives.

2) Preparation (safety and inspection theory)
- Safety: engine off, key out, parking brake on, wheels chocked. If doing electrical work or worry about alternator shorting, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Inspect belt routing diagram under hood or service manual: routing must be identical. Wrong routing changes wrap angles and load distribution → rapid failure.
- Check condition of belt ribs, edges, and underside; spin idlers/tensioner by hand to feel bearing roughness or play. A seized/rough pulley causes heat and belt wear; a weak tensioner allows slip.

3) Ordered repair procedure (what to do, with theory tied to each action)
1. Note and/or sketch the belt routing. Theory: prevents misrouting and ensures correct wrap and tension.
2. Position tools: use the correct size socket/serpentine tool on the tensioner square/bolt. Theory: tensioner must be rotated to relieve load safely.
3. Rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension and slip the belt off one easy pulley (usually the alternator or idler). Keep control of the tensioner while releasing. Theory: removing tension isolates the belt; abrupt release can damage the tensioner spring.
4. Remove the belt. Inspect belt for cracks, glazing, missing ribs, and contamination. Theory: visible defects indicate belt replacement; contamination reduces friction coefficient so the belt will slip.
5. Manually spin each idler, tensioner pulley, alternator shaft, power‑steering pump shaft, and compressor shaft. Check for axial play, rough bearings, or noise. Theory: a bad pulley/bearing will abrade and shorten new belt life or cause slip even with a new belt. Replace any bearinged pulley that feels rough or has play.
6. If oil/coolant contamination is present, find and repair the leak before installing a new belt. Theory: new belt will fail quickly if contamination remains.
7. Fit the new belt around pulleys per the routing diagram, leaving it off the easiest pulley to access (so you can tension last). Ensure ribs seat into grooves. Theory: correct seating and wrap angle maximize friction and reduce slip.
8. Rotate the tensioner back to its working position and slip the belt over the final pulley. Ensure the belt tracks evenly on each pulley. Theory: returning tensioner applies the designed preload and sets contact pressure.
9. With the belt installed, manually rotate the crank (if accessible) two full revolutions or start the engine briefly at idle and observe belt tracking and pulley behavior for any misalignment, noise, or slip. Theory: this seats the belt and reveals immediate misrouting, misalignment, or defective pulleys/tensioner.
10. Recheck tensioner and pulleys after a short test drive. Theory: springs can settle and new belts can stretch slightly; confirm proper operation.

4) How this repair fixes the fault (cause → cure)
- Replacing a worn/cracked/glazed belt restores the proper rib/groove friction profile so torque transfers without slip (stops squeal, restores charging, restores power steering assist, restores A/C).
- Replacing a weak or noisy tensioner restores correct preload, preventing belt slip and premature wear.
- Replacing seized/rough idlers or accessory bearings restores smooth rotation and correct belt path; rough bearings cause heat, lateral forces and belt wear leading to failure.
- Eliminating contamination (oil/coolant) restores friction and prevents accelerated deterioration.

5) Quick troubleshooting pointers (theory to guide diagnosis)
- High‑pitched squeal at cold start that disappears: often belt glazing or slight slip; check tension and belt condition.
- Squeal that worsens under load (steering or A/C): likely slip from weak tensioner or contaminated belt.
- Alternator light + belt looks good: check pulley bearings and tensioner; alternator internal faults can mimic belt symptoms.
- Visible shiny glazing on ribs: reduced friction → replace belt and inspect cause of glazing (slip or heat).

End.
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