Toyota A442F Automatic Transmission factory workshop and repair manual
Toyota A442F Automatic Transmission factory workshop and repair manual
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Covers
Operation
Component Parts Removal
Oil Pump
Overdrive Unit
Front Clutch
Rear Clutch
Second Brake
Front and Rear Planetary Gear Unit
First and Reverse Brake
Valve Body
Upper Valve Body
Lower Valve Body
Transmission Case
Parking Lock Pawl
Component Parts Installation
Service Specifications
A442F Automatic Transmission repair and workshop manual Covers FZJ80 and HDJ80 Toyota Landcruiser, Hardtop, canvas top, station wagon Covers the 4 speed electronic controlled The new A442F automatic transmission is a 4 —speed Electronic Controlled Automatic Trans- mission and has following features;
Electronic control provides the Automatic Transmission shift and lockup points most appropriate for the power characteristics of each engine and improves shift response.A high performance super flow torque converter in the Automatic Transmission is used to improve starting off, acceleration and fuel economy.For easier operation, the transmission shift lever positions have been reduced from 7 (P,R,N,D,3,2,L) to the 6 positions (P,R,N,D,2,L) used in Landcruiser vehicles, and an overdrive main switch has been provided on the shift lever.On vehicles using the 1FZ —FE engine, shift response has been greathly improved by communication between the Engine ECU and ECT ECU to momentarily reduce engine output when shifting.
Toyota A442F Automatic Transmission factory workshop and repair manual
- Quick ID — what “shock absorber” usually means on an A442F transmission
- Internal damper: many people calling a “shock absorber” on an automatic mean the internal damper/cushion inside the torque converter or internal transmission damper. That component is not an externally bolted shock — it’s inside the torque converter or part of a rebuild kit.
- External mount/damper: others mean a transmission mount or external rubber/damper bracket. That is serviceable without opening the transmission.
- Which is relevant: if you hear clunks on engagement or a shock when switching gears and it’s coming from the transmission area, the likely fix is a torque converter replacement or a transmission rebuild — not a simple bolt-on shock.
- Summary recommendation (short)
- If you mean the internal damper: plan on replacing the torque converter or having the transmission rebuilt; this is not a simple beginner bolt-on job and requires a transmission jack, engine support and either specialty tools or a shop.
- If you mean an external mount/damper: that can be done with basic tools and jack stands.
- Tools you should have (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Metric socket set (8–24 mm) with 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives
- Use: remove bellhousing, crossmember, mount and pan bolts. Pick correct socket size, apply steady force with ratchet or breaker bar; avoid rounding bolts.
- Ratchet and extension bars
- Use: reach bolts in tight spots; hold the ratchet handle perpendicular and pull smoothly.
- Breaker bar (12–24" long)
- Use: for stubborn bolts; apply steady pressure, not sudden jerks. Stand clear of slipping socket.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, suitable for 10–200 ft‑lb)
- Use: tighten critical bolts (torque converter bolts, bellhousing bolts, mount bolts) to factory torque. Set wrench to spec and tighten until it clicks once.
- Hydraulic floor jack (2‑ton minimum) and 2–4 quality jack stands
- Use: raise the vehicle with the jack on manufacturer jacking point, then support securely on jack stands placed on solid pinch welds or subframe. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Transmission jack or a second floor jack + wide wooden block (strongly recommended)
- Use: support and lower/raise the transmission weight safely. A transmission is heavy and awkward — use a proper transmission jack with straps when possible.
- Engine support bar or engine jack + wood block
- Use: when the crossmember or transmission mount is removed, the engine may tilt; support it from above or under the oil pan area with a jack and wooden block.
- Drain pan (large, shallow)
- Use: catch ATF when you remove the pan or cooler lines.
- Funnel and clean container for ATF
- Use: for refilling with measured correct fluid. Keep fluid clean.
- Line wrench (flare nut wrench) for cooler lines
- Use: to disconnect transmission cooler lines without rounding fittings.
- Pry bars (medium and small)
- Use: separate transmission and engine carefully; apply light steady leverage around bellhousing seam — take care not to gouge surfaces.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) and trim tools
- Use: remove clips, connectors, and small brackets.
- Seal puller / pick set and rubber mallet
- Use: remove old seals and small components carefully; mallet to tap parts loose gently.
- Shop light and safety glasses, nitrile gloves
- Use: protect eyes from fluid and debris; see inside work area.
- Optional but very useful: impact wrench (air or battery), transmission fluid pump for refilling, service manual with torque specs and procedures
- Why: impact speeds bolt removal; fluid pump prevents air ingestion when filling; manual gives exact torque and vehicle‑specific steps.
- Extra/specialty tools you may need (why required)
- Torque converter holding tool or long screwdriver and helper
- Why: when reinstalling the torque converter you must rotate and hold it to align and tighten bolts; a tool prevents the converter from turning.
- Transmission input shaft alignment guide / clutch alignment (if clutch parts exist)
- Why: ensures proper engagement when sliding transmission onto engine.
- Snap ring pliers (if rebuilding)
- Why: to remove internal snap rings during a rebuild.
- Service manual or OEM procedure
- Why: vehicle‑specific bolt sequences, torque specs, fluid type and fill quantity.
- Parts that might be required (what, why, and notes)
- Torque converter (OEM or remanufactured for A442F)
- Why: internal damper/shock is usually inside the torque converter — replacing that typically means replacing the torque converter assembly or having it rebuilt.
- Note: torque converter must match the transmission model and engine (check VIN/service manual or dealer parts).
- Transmission pan gasket and transmission filter (if accessible)
- Why: whenever the pan is removed you should replace the gasket and filter to avoid leaks and contamination.
- Seals (input/output shaft seals), O‑rings for cooler lines
- Why: seals can leak when you separate components; replace as preventive maintenance.
- Transmission mount bushings/crossmember hardware (if external mount damaged)
- Why: replace worn rubber mounts to stop excess movement that can feel like a “shock.”
- Automatic transmission fluid (OEM spec)
- Why: fresh fluid required after removal and to fill torque converter; use the correct Toyota ATF specified for your vehicle (consult manual).
- Rebuild kit (if doing internal rebuild)
- Why: contains internal dampers, clutches, friction plates, seals and springs; required for a full internal repair.
- Step-by-step procedure — replacing torque converter (high level, beginner‑oriented, bullet form)
- Safety first: disconnect negative battery terminal, chock rear wheels, work on a level surface, wear eye protection and gloves.
- Support engine and vehicle: raise vehicle with floor jack, set on jack stands; support engine with engine support or jack and wood block before you remove mounts/crossmember.
- Drain ATF: position drain pan, loosen transmission pan bolts and drain; remove pan and filter if doing service. Catch fluid and dispose/recycle properly.
- Disconnect external connections: remove shift linkages, electrical connectors, speed sensors, cooler lines (use line wrench), starter if it blocks access, and any brackets attached to the transmission.
- Remove driveshafts/CV axles or propeller shaft: depending on vehicle layout. Support and slide out shafts as required.
- Support transmission: position the transmission jack under the transmission with a wood pad; strap it to the jack.
- Remove crossmember and transmission mount: unbolt crossmember and mounts that hold transmission to chassis; keep track of hardware.
- Loosen bellhousing bolts: remove bellhousing bolts around the circumference; keep bolts organized by location.
- Slide transmission back: carefully separate transmission from engine by sliding it straight back on the transmission jack, checking for any remaining connectors. Do not pry the engine away — ensure engine is supported.
- Access torque converter bolts: once the transmission is backed away a few inches, rotate flexplate (with starter motor or by turning crank) to access torque converter bolts through bellhousing opening; support torque converter so it does not fall.
- Remove torque converter bolts: remove all torque converter-to-flexplate bolts and lift torque converter off the input shaft. Note bolt orientation and thread condition.
- Inspect: check flexplate, input shaft splines, and rear of engine for wear or damage. If any bearings, seals or splines are damaged, replace those parts.
- Install new torque converter: before sliding the transmission back on, fill the new torque converter with the specified ATF to roughly 1/4–1/2 full (per manual), and carefully slide it onto the transmission input shaft. Ensure it fully seats — you should feel at least two distinct engagements as it pushes on the pump and splines.
- Mate transmission to engine: slowly slide transmission forward until the bellhousing face meets the engine block. Make sure input shaft splines align; do not force. When flush, reinstall bellhousing bolts and tighten in the proper sequence to factory torque.
- Torque converter bolts: rotate flexplate to access holes, install bolts finger tight then torque them in the specified pattern to factory spec.
- Reinstall mount, crossmember, driveshafts, cooler lines, connectors, starter and everything removed in reverse order; use new seals/gaskets where necessary.
- Refill ATF: use a fluid pump to fill to the manufacturer’s specified amount with the correct type of ATF. Some vehicles require filling after running and cycling; follow service manual fill and check procedure.
- Start and check: with vehicle supported and parking brake engaged, start engine, cycle through all gears, check for leaks, and verify fluid level per the dipstick/procedure (warm engine, correct gear, etc).
- Road test and recheck: after short test drive, recheck fluid level and torque on fasteners.
- If you only want to change an external transmission mount/damper (easier)
- Tools: metric sockets, ratchet, jack, jack stands, engine support or jack + wood block
- Procedure: support engine, unbolt mount bracket, remove old mount, fit new mount, torque bolts to spec, lower engine slightly and recheck. Replace mount bushings/plated hardware as needed.
- Important cautions (must follow)
- Transmission and torque converters are heavy and alignment‑sensitive. Do not attempt to lower or raise the transmission without a transmission jack or an appropriate substitute and straps.
- Incorrectly seating the torque converter will damage the pump and cause catastrophic failure.
- Always use proper torque values from the service manual; under- or over‑torquing can cause failure.
- If you are not comfortable with heavy lifts, supporting the engine, or aligning the transmission, have the job done by a transmission shop.
- When part replacement is required and why
- Replace torque converter when internal damper is suspect (clunk on engagement, vibration, fluid contamination) — because internal cushions/dampers are inside the converter and can’t be serviced externally.
- Replace pan gasket/filter and seals whenever you open the pan or separate components to prevent leaks and contamination.
- Replace transmission mounts if worn — they cause movement that feels like shocks and transferring harshness to the drivetrain.
- Final practical advice (brief)
- Get the factory service manual or OEM repair guide for your specific vehicle (VIN) — it gives torque specs, fluid type and step‑by‑step diagrams.
- If you’re a complete beginner and the problem is internal to the torque converter or transmission, plan on professional help or at least a remanufactured torque converter and a helper with a transmission jack.
- Keep all bolts/parts labeled and take photos during disassembly to ensure correct reassembly.
- Safety reminder
- Work safely: disconnect battery, use jack stands, never crawl under a car supported only by a jack, wear safety gear, and dispose of fluids properly. rteeqp73
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Toyota Land Cruiser - Chassis and Body factory workshop and repair manual Covers FJ40,FJ43, FJ45, FJ60, BJ40, BJ 42, BJ43, BJ45, BJ46, BJ60 series and HJ47 and HJ60 series Download on PDF