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Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

Short theory first
- Purpose: a shock absorber (damper) converts suspension kinetic energy into heat via a piston forcing hydraulic fluid through valved passages, controlling spring oscillation and wheel-to-road contact. Good damping limits bounce, roll, dive, and keeps tires planted.
- Failure modes: fluid leaks, internal wear or gas loss, collapsed piston valving or worn seals — all reduce damping or allow uncontrolled rebound/compression. Symptoms: excessive bounce after bumps, nose-dive under braking, increased body roll, uneven tire wear, poor steering feel.
- Fix effect: replacing worn shocks restores the designed damping rate and stroke control, so the spring’s oscillations are arrested properly and wheel contact is maintained. Replace mounts/bushings when worn because they affect alignment and NVH.

Tools and parts (brief)
- Jack, safety stands, wheel chocks
- Lug wrench, socket set, breaker bar, ratchet
- Torque wrench
- Pry bar, penetrating oil
- For front struts: spring compressor OR buy complete replaceable strut cartridges/complete strut assemblies
- For rear shocks: appropriate socket/wrench
- New shocks/struts (both sides recommended), new top mounts/bushings if worn
- Shop manual or factory torque specs

Work order (do fronts and rears in pairs). Safety first: always use stands; if compressing springs, use a proper compressor and follow its instructions.

A. Pre-check (why: confirms fault and scope)
1. Visually inspect for oil leaks, broken springs, torn boots, damaged mounts. (Theory: leaking oil = lost damping; torn boot lets dirt accelerate wear.)
2. Bounce test: press down on a corner, release; >2 rebounds = weak damping. (Theory: confirms reduced energy dissipation.)

B. Rear shock replacement (simpler, if applicable on Aveo T200)
1. Lift rear and support on stands; remove wheel. (Why: safe access.)
2. Support axle/beam with jack so the shock isn’t under tension. (Why: prevents sudden drop and maintains alignment.)
3. Apply penetrating oil to upper/lower fasteners; remove lower bolt/nut. (Why: frees shock from lower mount; lower is load path.)
4. Remove upper mounting nuts (often in trunk or wheelwell). Remove shock assembly. (Why: separates damper from chassis.)
5. Inspect mounts, bushings, spring seats, and attachment hardware; replace if worn. (Why: worn mounts transmit noise and degrade isolation.)
6. Install new shock in reverse order. Tighten upper nuts with car resting on wheels (or at specified ride height) if manufacturer requires to avoid preload on bushings. Torque to spec. (Theory: tightening at ride height avoids preloading rubber bushings which would cause premature wear or altered suspension geometry.)
7. Torque lower bolt to spec with vehicle at ride height if instructed, otherwise per manual. Refit wheel, lower car, torque wheel lug nuts.

C. Front strut replacement (MacPherson strut — Aveo fronts are strut-type)
Option A (recommended for safety and alignment): replace complete strut assembly (strut with spring and mount pre-assembled).
Option B (if replacing just cartridge): use proper spring compressor.

Ordered steps (complete strut assembly replacement)
1. Lift front, support on stands, remove front wheel. (Safety/access.)
2. Remove any obstructions (brake line clips, ABS sensor wires) from strut. (Why: free the assembly.)
3. Support lower control arm with jack. Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts while supporting the knuckle so wheel hub doesn’t drop or twist. (Why: free lower mount; prevents CV joint/steering damage.)
4. In engine bay, loosen and remove the three strut-to-tower nuts while keeping the strut from dropping. (Why: frees top mount.)
5. Remove the strut assembly downward. Inspect top mount and bearing. (Theory: top mount/bearing wear affects steering and isolation.)
6. If using a complete assembly, fit new assembly into tower, start top nuts but do not fully torque until vehicle is at ride height if manual specifies. Reattach lower bolts, torque to spec. Reconnect brackets/lines. Refit wheel, lower car, torque top nuts to spec. If replacing cartridge with compressor, decompress spring only after reinstalling. (Why: ensures bushings/mounts are not preloaded and alignment geometry is correct.)
7. If you used spring compressor to transfer spring to new cartridge, do that on the bench following compressor instructions — decompress only after assembly is fully installed or mounted safely.

D. After any replacement
1. Torque all fasteners to factory specs. (Theory: correct clamping load ensures proper function and safety.)
2. Inspect and replace worn associated parts: mounts, bump stops, dust boots, control arm bushings if necessary. (Why: unresolved wear will shorten new shock life or leave symptoms.)
3. Lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec.
4. Road test: gradual test drive with varied speeds and maneuvers. Check for noise, bounce, steering feel, and check fasteners again after a short drive. (Why: confirms damping restored and no new noises or loose hardware.)
5. Alignment: get a wheel alignment if front struts or mounting points were disturbed. (Theory: changed ride height or replaced components can alter toe/camber affecting tire wear and handling.)

How each key action fixes the fault (concise)
- Removing the old damper eliminates the worn hydraulic/gas assembly that allowed uncontrolled spring motion.
- Installing a new damper restores correct flow restriction at piston valves — restoring compression and rebound rates so oscillations are damped.
- Replacing mounts/bushings restores proper isolation and keeps the damper correctly oriented, preventing added noise and misalignment.
- Tightening to proper torque and setting at ride height prevents preloading rubber parts which would otherwise introduce binding, altered geometry, and premature wear.
- Replacing in pairs restores balanced damping front-to-front or rear-to-rear, preventing unequal handling and uneven tire wear.

Important extra notes (short)
- Always replace shocks in axle pairs. Never reuse a leaking/failed damper with a new one on the opposite side.
- If you’re not using a complete strut assembly, use a certified spring compressor and extreme caution — stored spring energy is dangerous.
- Dispose of old shocks and oil per local regulations.

That’s the ordered procedure with the underlying mechanical reasons and how the repair restores correct suspension function.
rteeqp73

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