Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

- Purpose and quick overview
- This covers two related jobs: routine oil change (no pan removal) and oil pan removal/replace (needed if pan leaks, damaged, or for access). Read the steps for the job you actually need; you do NOT need to remove the oil pan for a normal oil change.

- Safety first (do these every time)
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile or mechanic gloves.
- Work on a flat surface, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Use a properly rated hydraulic jack and jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
- Allow the engine to cool 15–30 minutes if it was running; oil can be very hot.

- Tools — what you need, what they do, and how to use them
- Metric socket set (3/8" drive, 8–19 mm sizes)
- Description: ratchet-drive sockets sized in millimeters. Oil pan and drain plug are metric on the Aveo T200.
- How to use: fit the correct socket to the bolt head, push on the ratchet to loosen/tighten. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts.
- 3/8" ratchet and extensions
- Description: handle that turns sockets; extensions give reach.
- How to use: attach socket, position on bolt, pull or push ratchet handle to break loose and rotate. Use slow controlled motion when tightening.
- Torque wrench (in-lb/Nm or ft-lb range)
- Description: wrench that measures torque so you don’t over/under-tighten.
- How to use: set the specified torque, tighten until the wrench “clicks.” Required for final tightening of oil pan bolts and drain plug to prevent leaks and stripped threads.
- Oil drain pan (large, metal or plastic)
- Description: container to catch used oil.
- How to use: position under drain plug/pan to catch oil; empty into a sealable container for recycling.
- Funnel
- Description: plastic funnel for pouring oil without spilling.
- How to use: insert into filler neck and pour slowly.
- Oil filter wrench (cap style or adjustable)
- Description: tool to remove the cartridge/canister oil filter.
- How to use: fit wrench onto filter housing or canister and turn counterclockwise. Hold housing steady if housing is fixed.
- New oil filter (OEM or quality aftermarket)
- Description: replaces old filter to trap contaminants.
- How to use: lightly oil the rubber gasket, hand-tighten to spec, then follow filter instructions (typically 3/4 turn after gasket contacts surface).
- Replacement oil and oil specification (see your owner’s manual for viscosity and capacity)
- Description: correct grade of motor oil for Aveo T200 (follow manual).
- How to use: pour in with funnel to fill to required level; check dipstick.
- Drain plug crush washer / sealing washer (copper or aluminum)
- Description: small gasket under the drain plug that prevents leaks.
- How to use: replace anytime you remove the drain plug; seat under plug, tighten to spec.
- Flat scraper or gasket scraper, plastic or metal
- Description: removes old gasket material and RTV sealant from mating surfaces.
- How to use: gently scrape old gasket from pan and block surfaces; avoid gouging metal.
- Brake cleaner or solvent and clean rags
- Description: cleans oil and residue from surfaces.
- How to use: spray and wipe until surfaces are clean and dry before installing new gasket/sealant.
- RTV silicone gasket maker (if required) or replacement rubber/oil pan gasket
- Description: sealant used where no pre-formed gasket is used, or OEM-style gasket if available.
- How to use: apply according to product instructions (usually a continuous bead; allow curing for specified time before filling).
- Jack and axle stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: lift car safely and support it.
- How to use: lift at manufacturer lift points, lower onto stands, verify stability by rocking vehicle slightly.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: prevent vehicle rolling.
- How to use: place behind rear wheels when front lifted or vice versa.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long bar to give extra leverage on stubborn bolts.
- How to use: attach socket, apply steady force to break loose stuck bolt; avoid jerking motions.
- Small pry bar or flat screwdriver
- Description: helps separate oil pan from block if gasket sticks.
- How to use: gently pry at several points; don’t force or bend the pan.
- Flashlight or work light
- Description: improves visibility under the car.
- How to use: position where it lights the work area without falling into oil.
- Plastic zip-top bag and marker
- Description: store and label bolts/parts so reassembly is correct.
- How to use: place bolts from each section in separate bags, label them.
- Optional but strongly recommended: ramps or a second jack / transmission jack (if the pan is heavy)
- Description: ramps give more room; a transmission jack supports the pan if you need to lower it slowly or if it’s bulky.
- Why required: some pans are awkward to lower and may drop quickly — a jack lets you support and control the drop.

- Routine oil change (no pan removal) — steps (brief, do these if pan is not leaking)
- Warm engine to operating temperature then let cool a few minutes.
- Jack vehicle, support on jack stands, chock wheels.
- Put drain pan under drain plug, loosen and remove drain plug, allow oil to drain completely.
- Replace crush washer on drain plug, reinstall and snug (final torque with torque wrench).
- Remove and replace oil filter (lubricate new filter gasket with oil, hand-tighten per filter instructions).
- Refill with correct quantity and grade of oil, check level on dipstick after running engine a minute and letting oil settle.
- Check for leaks around drain plug and filter.

- Oil pan removal and replacement (when required — step-by-step)
- Reasons to remove oil pan: visible leak from pan, pan dented or cracked, internal work needed (pump/sensor), or sludge access.
- Prepare vehicle: jack and place on stands, chock wheels, place drain pan under pan, remove engine cover if needed for access.
- Drain oil first using drain plug and catch all oil; remove oil filter to reduce mess.
- Remove any splash shields, crossmember parts, or brackets that block pan access (use socket set). Label bolts and parts.
- Loosen and remove oil pan bolts in a pattern (work around the pan), keep bolts organized by location.
- Gently pry pan off block at several points using a plastic scraper or small flat screwdriver; be careful not to gouge mating surfaces.
- Lower pan carefully—have an extra hand or use a jack under the pan. Expect residual oil; drain into catch pan.
- Clean mating surfaces on pan and engine block completely with scraper and solvent; remove all old gasket/RTV.
- Inspect oil pickup and oil pump for debris; if metal flakes present, do not reuse — consult a mechanic.
- If using a new pan:
- Inspect bolt holes for stripped threads. If threads are damaged, you may need a helicoil or thread repair kit (explained below).
- If pan uses a gasket, install new gasket per pan instructions.
- If pan uses RTV, apply a continuous bead per manufacturer groove pattern and allow recommended cure time if required.
- Install pan carefully, hand-thread bolts to avoid cross-threading; tighten bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern to seat the gasket.
- Final torque bolts to manufacturer spec using torque wrench (important — prevents warping and leaks).
- Reinstall drain plug with new crush washer tightened to spec.
- Reinstall any removed parts (splash shields or crossmembers).
- Reinstall oil filter, refill engine with correct oil, start engine and check for leaks, re-check torque after short run if specified.
- Dispose of old oil and filter at a recycling center.

- Parts that might need replacing and why
- Oil filter
- Why: filter is single-use; must be changed with each oil change to trap contaminants.
- Drain plug crush washer (copper/aluminum)
- Why: deforms to seal; always replace when removing drain plug to prevent leaks.
- Oil pan gasket or RTV
- Why: prevents leaks between pan and block; old gaskets harden and leak when pan removed/reinstalled.
- Oil pan
- Why: replace if cracked, severely dented (interference with pickup), corroded, or bolt boss threads are damaged beyond repair.
- Oil pan bolts
- Why: bolts can stretch or strip; some are torque-to-yield and OEMs advise replacement if damaged.
- Thread repair kit / helicoil
- Why: if pan bolt holes in the block are stripped, a helicoil or thread insert restores threads. This is more advanced and may require drilling and tapping — consider a professional if unfamiliar.
- Oil pickup tube or pump (rare)
- Why: if metal debris or sludge has damaged them, they must be replaced to prevent engine damage.

- Common problems and how to decide if you need a pan replacement
- Small leak at seam — try replacing gasket/RTV first.
- Large crack, puncture, or deep dent (interferes with pickup) — replace pan.
- Stripped bolt holes in block — repair with thread insert or take to a shop.
- Metal flakes or severe sludge — inspect internals; consult a mechanic if metal is present.

- Torque and tightening guidance (safety note)
- Use a torque wrench for final tightening of oil pan bolts and drain plug to avoid leaks and stripped threads.
- If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten bolts evenly and snug, then get a torque wrench before final drive. Incorrect torque risks leaks or damage.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Used oil and filter must be taken to a recycling center or auto shop that accepts used oil.
- Wipe up spills promptly; use absorbent pads and dispose of as required by local regulations.

- Final checks after reassembly
- Start engine, check for immediate leaks under pan and at filter.
- Let engine reach operating temperature, re-check oil level and for leaks.
- After 50–100 miles, re-check drain plug and pan bolt tightness (some seals settle).

- When to consult a professional
- You find cracked pan or damaged bolt bosses, find metal flakes in oil, or are uncomfortable doing the repair — professional tools/experience are required for thread repair or internal engine work.

- Quick parts shopping list (common things to buy before starting)
- Correct motor oil (grade and quantity per manual)
- New oil filter
- Drain plug crush washer(s)
- Oil pan gasket or RTV sealant (as required by chosen pan)
- Replacement oil pan (only if yours is damaged)
- Optional: thread repair kit/helicoil (only if threads are stripped)

- Final practical tips
- Keep bolts grouped and labeled so you reinstall them where they came from.
- Take photos during disassembly — they help during reassembly.
- Work patiently; cross-threaded bolts or rushed sealant application cause most leaks.

- No extra commentary.
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