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Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

- Goal and quick summary
- Replace or test a relay on a Chevrolet Aveo T200 (engine bay or dash fuse/relay box) so a circuit (fuel pump, starter, fan, horn, etc.) works again.
- Workflow: identify relay location from fuse-box cover, remove and test/swap, bench-test or replace if bad, reconnect and verify operation.
- Time estimate: 15–60 minutes depending on access and testing.

- Safety first
- Work on a cool, level car with parking brake on and ignition off, keys out.
- Wear safety glasses and insulated gloves to protect from sparks and hot parts.
- If you will be disconnecting the battery, remove jewelry and keep metal tools clear of battery posts.

- Tools you will need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Use: pry off fuse-box cover, lift relay retainers, open clips.
- How to use: insert the blade gently into the seam, twist slightly to lift; use controlled pressure to avoid breaking plastic.
- Phillips-head screwdriver
- Use: remove any screws holding panels or fuse-box covers.
- How to use: match driver size to screw, apply steady pressure while turning to avoid cam-out.
- 10 mm socket and ratchet (or wrench)
- Use: disconnect battery negative terminal if required, remove small fasteners.
- How to use: place socket over nut, turn counterclockwise to loosen; hold wrench steady and keep the ratchet head aligned to avoid rounding the nut.
- Needle-nose pliers
- Use: grasp and pull a relay if tight, handle small clips or connectors.
- How to use: grip relay firmly at base and pull straight out; avoid twisting wires.
- Multimeter (digital preferred)
- Use: check relay coil resistance, check supply voltage, perform continuity tests.
- How to use: set to DC volts to check battery/terminal voltage (12–13.5 V). Set to resistance/ohms to measure coil resistance (typically tens to hundreds of ohms). Use continuity/beep mode to check switch contacts close when relay is energized.
- Test light or 12 V test jumper (optional but very useful)
- Use: verify power at relay socket pins and simulate activation for some relays.
- How to use: clip to battery negative, probe relay socket contacts with test light; if light illuminates, that terminal has power.
- Spare relay(s) that match the original (recommended)
- Use: swap to confirm suspect relay is faulty.
- How to use: remove suspected relay and replace with a known-good identical relay from another circuit (same pin count and rating) or a new replacement.
- Relay puller or small pry tool (optional)
- Use: ease extraction of stuck relays without damaging them or the socket.
- How to use: hook under relay base and pull straight up, rocking gently if needed.
- Flashlight or headlamp
- Use: illuminate fuse/relay box and wiring.
- How to use: position to see socket pins and diagram on cover.
- Electrical contact cleaner (optional)
- Use: clean corroded relay pins or fuse contacts.
- How to use: spray transiently and allow to dry; avoid soaking other components.

- Extra tools that might be required and why
- Soldering iron and heat-shrink tubing (only if rewiring or repairing a broken connector)
- Why required: to make a reliable insulated repair if a wire or terminal is damaged.
- Relay socket/terminal kit (if the relay socket is melted/corroded)
- Why required: replace damaged socket instead of trying to use a bad connector which risks intermittent faults or fire.
- Replacement fuses (same amp rating)
- Why required: a blown fuse can mimic a bad relay—need to replace with correct amp rating to restore circuit.

- How to locate the relay on an Aveo T200
- Open the hood and locate the engine bay fuse/relay box (black plastic box near battery or on the passenger side inner fender).
- Remove the fuse-box cover; the underside has a diagram showing relays and fuses. Compare the diagram to the symptom (fuel pump, starter, fan, etc.).
- There may also be a relay/fuse panel inside the passenger compartment under the dash—check owner’s manual or the cover diagram.

- How to remove a relay safely
- Turn the ignition off and remove the key.
- If you prefer extra safety, disconnect the negative battery terminal using the 10 mm socket/wrench.
- Open the fuse/relay box cover using the flat-head screwdriver or by unlatching the clips.
- Visual inspection: look for corrosion, melted plastic, or burned smell—note which relay corresponds to the problem via the diagram.
- Grasp the relay at the top/edges and pull straight upward. Use needle-nose pliers or a relay puller if tight. Avoid twisting wires.

- How to test a relay (basic, for beginners)
- Swap test (simplest, no special tools required)
- Find another identical relay in the same fuse box (same pin count and labeled the same part number) that is used by a non-critical circuit.
- Swap the suspect relay with the known-good one. If the problem moves or is fixed, the original relay is bad and should be replaced.
- Voltage test with multimeter/test light
- With ignition on (or as required by the circuit), probe the relay socket:
- Find the power feed pin — it should have battery voltage (12 V).
- Find the control/coil pin — it may have 12 V only when the circuit is being commanded.
- If power is present at the feed but the relay does not click or the controlled terminal does not energize, the relay may be bad.
- Bench test with multimeter (advanced)
- Pull relay out. Identify coil pins (consult relay stamping or diagram).
- Measure coil resistance with multimeter (ohms). Many 12 V automotive relays measure ~50–200 ohms; a very high/infinite reading = open coil (bad).
- Apply 12 V across coil (using jumper/wire from battery) and listen for a click; then check continuity across switch pins. No click or no continuity = bad.
- Note: some circuits require engine running or ECU control; don’t force systems that could cause injury.

- How to replace a bad relay
- Buy an identical replacement: same pin count (4-pin or 5-pin), same voltage (12 V) and same or higher current/amperage rating, and matching pin layout/shape.
- OEM vs aftermarket: OEM part from Chevrolet or a reputable brand (Bosch, Tyco/TE, Hella) is fine. If unsure, take the old relay to the parts store to match it.
- Install new relay by pressing it squarely into the socket until fully seated.
- Reconnect battery if you disconnected it, start car or switch the affected circuit on, and verify operation.

- When part replacement is required and why
- Replace the relay when:
- It fails swap test and bench tests show open coil or failed contacts.
- You hear no click when the relay should activate and coil resistance is bad.
- There is visible damage: melted plastic, burn marks, severe corrosion.
- Other parts you may need instead of or in addition to a relay:
- Fuse: if a fuse is blown, replace with same amp rating.
- Relay socket/connector: if pins are melted or corroded, replace socket to ensure reliable connection.
- Wiring repair: if wires to the relay are damaged, repair or replace to prevent intermittent faults.
- Control module (rare): if relay coil is driven by a module or ECM and they don’t provide control signal, the relay may be fine but the controller is bad — diagnosis should confirm signal presence before replacing expensive modules.

- What replacement relay to buy (what to check)
- Match physical fit and pin arrangement exactly.
- Confirm 12 V rating and current (amperage) rating meets or exceeds original — relay must handle the circuit load (starter/fuel pump/fan have higher loads).
- Prefer OEM part or reputable aftermarket with identical specs; bring the old relay to the parts store for a match.

- Troubleshooting tips (quick)
- If swapping relays fixed it temporarily, buy a new relay; don’t leave an unrelated-circuit relay in a critical circuit long-term.
- If power is present at feed pin but no control signal, problem may be upstream (switch, ECU, sensor).
- If replacing relay doesn’t fix the issue and fuses and wiring check OK, consider professional diagnosis to avoid causing more damage.

- Final checks and reassembly
- Reinstall fuse-box cover, close hood, reconnect battery negative if disconnected.
- Start car or activate that circuit and confirm normal operation multiple times.
- Dispose of faulty relays and old fuses properly.

- Quick parts list to buy (minimal)
- Correct replacement relay(s) — match the old relay.
- Spare fuses (same amp ratings) if needed.
- Optional: multimeter and test light if you don’t already have them.

- Final note
- Replacing a relay is a common, beginner-friendly task if you follow safety steps and match the replacement part. If wiring or control signals are suspect, get professional help to avoid electrical damage.
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