Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

Role: Automotive technician. Step-by-step suspension geometry (wheel alignment) adjustment procedure for Chevrolet Aveo T200.

Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface or an alignment rack. Chock rear wheels, apply parking brake.
- Use a hydraulic jack and rated jack stands; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Lock the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position while adjusting (steering-wheel holder or equivalent). Note torque values and re-torque all fasteners to factory specs in the service manual after adjustments.
- If the car has significant rust or seized bolts, use penetrating oil and appropriate caution — do not apply excessive force that could break a component.

Tools required
- Alignment rack and 4-wheel alignment head (preferred), OR:
- Toe plates or toe gauge OR string/straight-edge method
- Round turn plates for front wheels (optional but recommended)
- Camber gauge (digital preferred) that clamps to the wheel or hub
- Caster gauge or a digital inclinometer and turn plates
- Tape measure, straight-edge, plumb-bob (for DIY)
- Metric wrench and socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench
- Tie-rod spanner or adjustable wrench, long needle-nose or locking pliers for holding
- Pry bar for control arm positioning, hammer and punch for stubborn bolts
- Penetrating oil, anti-seize
- Steering wheel holder or strap
- Jack and jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Replacement parts as needed (listed below)

Pre-check (do not skip)
1. Tires: correct pressure, same tire size & wear. Replace tires if geometry changed by worn tires.
2. Inspect suspension and steering components for wear/free play:
- Tie rod ends — play, torn boots
- Ball joints
- Control arm bushings
- Struts/shocks — leaks or worn mounts
- Sway bar links
- Wheel bearings
3. Repair/replace any worn components before attempting alignment. Alignment adjustments will not hold if parts are worn.

Notes about the Aveo T200 geometry
- Front: MacPherson strut; toe is adjustable via tie rods. Camber/caster may be limited or non-adjustable at the factory on many economy platforms — some adjustment can be made by replacing toppers or using eccentric bolts/aftermarket camber plates. Check factory manual for exact adjustability.
- Rear: torsion beam/trailing arm setup. Rear toe may be adjustable via eccentric bolts on the beam or by moving trailing arm bushings; some models have limited/no adjustment and require replacing worn bushings or an adjustable beam.

Procedure — setup and measurement
1. Prepare vehicle:
- Set tires to proper pressure.
- Remove heavy cargo; have a full fuel tank or follow factory weight condition.
- Center steering wheel and lock it in place.
2. Lift car and put on turn plates under front wheels (if using). Raise only as needed for gauges to be attached; wheels should rest on plates/scale for caster measurement.
3. Attach wheel clamps/targets if using an alignment machine.
4. Measure current alignment:
- With alignment rack/heads: record front camber, caster, individual toe, total toe and rear toe.
- With toe plates/string method: mark hub height or wheel centerline, place toe plates at front and rear of each front wheel, measure distance between plates at front and rear. Toe (mm) = (front measurement - rear measurement) / 2 (per side formula depending on method). Positive toe = toes-in.
- For camber: attach camber gauge to rim and read angle. For caster: use caster gauge or digital inclinometer with turn plates; measure steering angles left & right and compute caster per gauge instructions.

Adjusting front toe (typical, and the primary adjustment on Aveo T200)
1. Loosen the tie rod lock nut (the jam/locking nut on the inner or outer tie rod) on the steering rack end far enough to allow rotation of the tie rod.
2. Count/record the number of turns from the locking nut to the tie rod end (or mark threads) to maintain symmetry or allow easy return.
3. Rotate the tie rod to change length:
- Shortening the tie rod (turning in) increases toe-out.
- Lengthening the tie rod (turning out) increases toe-in.
4. Adjust until toe is within specified factory range or desired value (recommended: total front toe near 0.00° to +0.10° depending on spec — consult service manual).
5. Re-center steering wheel while making sure wheel straight ahead position matches steering wheel centered; lock the wheel.
6. Tighten tie rod lock nut to factory torque.
7. Re-check toe after tightening; adjust again if needed.

Adjusting front camber and caster (if adjustable on this vehicle)
- If the Aveo has factory eccentric bolts or camber adjustment at the strut top:
1. Loosen the strut-to-knuckle/top mount bolts as needed (follow manual).
2. Use the eccentric cam bolt (or adjustable strut top) to shift the strut top in or out — this changes camber.
3. For caster, adjust the longitudinal position of the lower control arm or use caster adjusting eccentric where provided. This model often has limited caster adjustment; check manual.
4. Re-tighten to torque and re-measure.
- If not adjustable: options are replacing bent strut or using aftermarket adjustable strut tops/camber bolts or adjustable lower control arms. Do not attempt to bend knuckles — replace.

Adjusting rear toe on torsion beam (if adjustable)
1. Locate the eccentric adjustment bolts at torsion beam/trailing arm pivots (if present).
2. Loosen the pivot bolts slightly (do not remove).
3. Rotate the eccentric to move the beam/arm to change rear toe.
4. Tighten pivot bolts to torque and re-measure rear toe.
- If rear is non-adjustable and out of spec, investigate worn bushings or bent beam; replacement or aftermarket adjustable beam may be required.

How specific tools are used — quick how-to
- Toe plates: place plates flush to wheel rim; use tape measure between front and rear plates at a consistent vertical location. Convert mm difference to toe angle if needed. Use long straight edge and measuring rod for accurate alignment.
- String method: run two parallel strings along the side of car equidistant from centerline; measure to front and rear rim centers and compare distances (string must be perfectly parallel to car axis).
- Camber gauge: clamp to wheel rim or hub, zero on a known vertical reference or on car centerline, read degrees directly.
- Caster gauge: place on wheel/hub with turn plates; lock gauge, rotate steering to specified angles left and right; unit computes caster.
- Turn plates: reduce steering resistance and give an accurate pivot point for caster measurements.
- Tie-rod adjustment: use a spanner or adjustable wrench on the locknut; hold inner section with pliers if necessary. Count turns or use markings to ensure both sides remain symmetric.

Replacement parts typically required before or during alignment
- Outer/inner tie-rod ends (common)
- Struts/shock absorbers (if worn or leaking)
- Strut mounts / top mounts / bearing plates (if noisy or excessive play)
- Lower control arm bushings, ball joints
- Rear torsion beam bushings or adjustable beam (if rear out of spec)
- Camber/caster adjustable parts (aftermarket camber plates, adjustable control arms) if geometry cannot be achieved with stock parts
- Eccentric adjustment bolts if rusted/damaged
Always replace worn components before attempting final alignment.

Final checks and road test
1. After adjustments, torque all fasteners to factory specs.
2. Re-check all alignment readings (front and rear).
3. Perform a 10–20 minute road test covering straight runs and turns to settle components.
4. Re-check alignment after road test and re-torque fasteners if required.
5. Verify steering wheel is centered, no pull, and tire wear is even.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Trying to align with worn steering/suspension parts — replace worn components first.
- Not centering/locking steering wheel — results in off-center steering wheel after adjustment.
- Not using vehicle weight specifications — get correct ride height and preload.
- Over-tightening or under-tightening lock nuts; always use correct torque.
- Making only front adjustments when rear is out-of-spec — vehicle may still pull or wear tires.
- Relying on thread-count only — always confirm with measurements.
- Using inadequate DIY methods without repeatability — recheck measurements after tightening.
- For Aveo T200 specifically: assume limited camber/caster adjustability — don’t waste time chasing camber unless you have adjustable parts or replacement strut mounts.

Notes and references
- Always use the factory alignment specifications for the Aveo T200 in the Chevrolet/Daewoo service manual (camber, caster, toe and allowable ranges). If you don’t have the manual, an alignment shop or dealer can provide specs.
- If adjustments cannot bring the car into spec, inspect for bent or damaged suspension members or worn bushings and replace as needed.

Done.
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