Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

Summary (what you'll do and why)
- You will remove the wheel, take off the brake caliper and bracket, remove the worn rotor, clean the hub, fit a new rotor, reinstall the bracket, pads and caliper, torque fasteners and bed the new rotor/pads.
- Why: the rotor is the spinning metal disc the pads clamp onto to convert the car’s motion into heat/stop the car. Rotors wear, get thin, scored, or warp from heat — causing poor braking, vibration, noise, or unsafe stopping distance. Think of the rotor as a cheese wheel and the pads as two sandwiching knives: if the cheese is too thin, uneven, or gouged the sandwich won’t be made cleanly.

Safety first (no shortcuts)
- Work on a level surface, parking brake off (if working front) and chock the opposite wheels. Put the transmission in Park (or 1st gear) and block the rear wheels.
- Loosen lug nuts slightly before jacking. Use the proper jack point and always support the car with jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Brake dust can be hazardous — use a mask if dusty, and wipe/clean with brake cleaner rather than compressed air.
- Don’t let the caliper hang by the flexible brake hose — it can be damaged. Hang it with a bungee, wire, or rest it on a block.
- Consult the factory service manual for exact torque specs for your vehicle; I give common ranges below but verify for your Aveo T200.

Tools & parts
- Replacement rotors (front; check whether your Aveo has rear discs or drums — procedure differs for rear)
- Possibly new brake pads (recommended to replace pads when replacing rotors)
- Jack + quality jack stands, wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or impact gun for removing wheel lugs
- Socket set and ratchet, extensions (common sizes 13–19 mm; caliper bracket bolts often large)
- Breaker bar (for stubborn bolts)
- Torque wrench (for final torque on lug nuts and bolts)
- C-clamp or piston compression tool (to compress caliper piston)
- Screwdriver or pry bar (for pad clips and to lever things gently)
- Rubber mallet (to free stuck rotor)
- Wire brush and brake cleaner (to clean hub & parts)
- Anti-seize (small amount for hub face only — do not get on braking surfaces)
- Penetrating oil (PB blaster) for rusty bolts
- Bungee cord/wire to hang caliper
- New caliper guide pin boots/shims if worn (optional)
- Thread locker (per manual) — optional for some bolts

Every component explained (what it is and what it does)
- Wheel and Lug Nuts: hold the wheel to the hub. Torque properly.
- Rotor (disc): metal disc attached to the wheel hub. Pads clamp on it to slow the wheel by friction. Rotors have a minimum thickness specification — replace when below it.
- Wheel hub / bearing: hub is where the rotor mounts; the bearing allows the hub to spin smoothly. Excessive play or noise = bad bearing.
- Brake caliper: the assembly that holds the brake pads and contains the hydraulic piston(s). When you press the pedal, hydraulic pressure pushes the piston, which forces the pads onto the rotor.
- Caliper piston(s): round hydraulic component that pushes the inner pad outward. Can be single or dual pistons.
- Caliper bracket (carrier): mounts to the knuckle and holds the caliper and outer pad; caliper slides on it.
- Brake pads: friction material on a metal backing plate that contacts the rotor. They wear and need replacing.
- Pad shims & anti-rattle clips: reduce noise and help align the pad. Replace if bent or missing.
- Brake hose (flexible): carries brake fluid to caliper. If the hose internally collapses it can prevent caliper retraction and cause dragging.
- ABS sensor and tone ring (if present): senses wheel speed; if corroded or hit you can trigger ABS fault. Keep sensor clear.
- Dust shield (backing plate): protects rotor & hub from debris. May need cleaning or straightening.
- Brake fluid reservoir & master cylinder: source of hydraulic fluid. Fluid level rises/lowers as pads wear.

Theory — how the system works (simple)
- When you press the brake pedal you push a piston in the master cylinder, which pressurizes brake fluid in the lines. The fluid transmits pressure to the caliper piston(s). The piston(s) push brake pads into the rotor. Friction between pad and rotor converts kinetic energy to heat and slows the car.
- Parking brake: rear systems may use cable-actuated mechanisms that push shoes or a small drum inside the rotor hat. These must be serviced correctly for rear rotor replacement.

Why rotors need replacement (common failure modes)
- Thickness wear: pads grind away metal; rotor can reach minimum thickness. Thin rotors can overheat and fail.
- Scoring/grooving: deep cuts reduce contact area and cause noise/poor braking.
- Heat warpage: repeated heavy braking can overheat and distort the rotor; causes pedal/shake/vibration.
- Corrosion and rust: especially where wheel mates to hub — can cause wobble or difficulty removing rotor.
- Cracking: severe overheating can produce hairline cracks — replace immediately.
- Uneven wear from stuck caliper or seized pins — leads to taper and vibration.

Step-by-step procedure (front rotors) — beginner-friendly
1. Preparation
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts about 1/4 turn while the car is on the ground.
- Raise the car with the jack at the recommended jacking point and support on jack stands. Remove the wheel.

2. Expose the brake
- Locate the caliper. You’ll see two caliper pins/bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket. Remove them (keep track of any rubber boots). Use an appropriate socket or Allen/Hex if used.
- Remove the caliper and hang it so its weight is fully supported (do not hang from the brake hose).

3. Remove pads and pad hardware
- Pull the pads out and note how clips or anti-rattle hardware sit. Take photos if unsure. Remove shims if present and keep them if they’re in good shape.

4. Remove the caliper bracket (often required)
- Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts to get full access to the rotor. These bolts are usually larger and tightened to higher torque — use penetrating oil if rusty. Save bolt order.

5. Remove the rotor
- If the rotor is secured with small retaining screws, remove them. Many rotors are held by the hub friction and wheel lugs.
- If stuck from rust, spray penetrating oil on the hub/rotor interface and tap the rotor from the back with a rubber mallet. Don’t hit the hub or bearing. Two opposing taps usually free it. If it still won’t budge, loosen hub bolts and check service manual — do not damage the hub bearing.

6. Clean the hub and inspect
- Wire-brush and clean the mating surface on the hub. Remove rust and high spots so the rotor seats flat. Inspect wheel bearing for play and noise. Also check ABS tone ring and sensor for damage or dirt.
- Apply a thin coat of high-temp anti-seize to the hub center face only, not on the rotor braking surface.

7. Fit the new rotor
- Slide new rotor onto the hub. If there are retaining screws, reinstall them (careful with thread condition). If you want to hold the rotor while reinstalling the bracket, put the wheel on and finger-tighten lug nuts — but torque properly later.

8. Reinstall caliper bracket and pads
- Reinstall and torque the caliper bracket bolts to spec. Replace any guide pin boots or grease guide pins with appropriate silicone grease if needed.
- Install new pads on the bracket with any shims/clips in correct orientation.

9. Retract piston(s) if needed
- Before reinstalling caliper over pads, compress the caliper piston(s) back into the bore using a C-clamp or piston tool. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap first to allow fluid to return. Slowly compress; do not damage the piston seal. (If the car has rear parking-brake actuated calipers, follow procedure — often requires a rotating tool to screw piston back in.)

10. Reinstall caliper
- Slide caliper over the pads and bracket, reinstall caliper guide pins/bolts, torque to spec.

11. Reinstall wheel and torque lugs
- Mount wheel, hand-tighten lug nuts, lower car, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s spec. Typical small car lug torque: roughly 80–110 Nm (60–80 ft-lb) — check your manual.

12. Final checks and fluid
- Check brake fluid level and top if needed. Pump the pedal several times with engine off until firm (this seats pads against rotors). Check caliper for leaks.
- Test drive at low speed, making progressive stops to bed the pads and rotors.

Bedding in (breaking in) new rotors and pads
- Proper bedding builds an even transfer layer of pad material onto the rotor for best stopping performance. A common method: perform 8–10 stops from about 30–40 mph down to 5–10 mph using moderate to firm braking (do not come to a full stop on the pad initially), then allow to cool. Follow pad manufacturer instructions for precise procedure.

What can go wrong (and how to recognize/fix it)
- Rotor stuck to hub: use penetrating oil, rubber mallet, or remove hub to free; don’t hammer the hub/bearing.
- Caliper bolts seized or rounded: use penetrating oil, impact, heat as necessary. Replace bolts if thread damage. Use correct size sockets.
- Caliper piston won’t compress: piston is seized — either rebuild/replace caliper or replace caliper. Do NOT force it; risk of damage and brake fluid overflow.
- Brake drag after reassembly: caliper not sliding (clean/grease guide pins), piston not fully retracted, collapsed brake hose, or caliper mounting bolts overtightened/misaligned. Check for heat/discoloration after a short drive.
- Spongy pedal: air in system — bleed brakes. After replacing components you usually do not need to bleed unless you opened hydraulic lines, but compressing pistons can push fluid back and sometimes require checking reservoir level.
- Vibration/pulsation while braking: rotor runout (warpage) or improper seating of rotor on a corroded hub, or pads not bedded. Check rotor runout with dial indicator if available.
- Noise: squeal = pads glazing or missing shims; grinding = metal-to-metal (bad pads or pads installed incorrectly); rattle = missing anti-rattle clips or loose hardware.
- ABS light or ABS pulsation: dirty/damaged wheel speed sensor or tone ring; check sensor wires and ring for damage.
- Cross-threaded wheel studs or lug nuts: leads to failure. Always start lugs by hand and use correct torque sequence.

Torque guideline examples (verify with service manual)
- Lug nuts: commonly 80–110 Nm (60–80 ft-lb) on small cars.
- Caliper bracket bolts: often 70–140 Nm depending on model.
- Always use a torque wrench and confirm the exact figures from the Aveo T200 factory spec.

Maintenance tips & final notes
- Replace pads when rotors are replaced or whenever pad thickness is low; mixing new rotor with old thin pads reduces life and performance.
- Clean new rotors with brake cleaner to remove protective oil layer before fitting.
- Replace guide pin boots and lubricate pins with high-temp brake grease when reassembling.
- Inspect brake hoses and wheel bearings while you have the assembly apart.
- Keep brake fluid clean — change per schedule and use correct DOT fluid. Old contaminated fluid reduces system performance.
- Save old parts for reference in case of warranty issues or return requirements.

Quick troubleshooting guide after installation
- If pedal is low/spongy → bleed brakes.
- If pedal is hard but car pulls/vibrates → check rotor runout/wheel torque.
- If brakes drag and wheel overheats → check caliper sliding pins, hose condition, and piston retraction.
- If noise → check pad orientation, shims, hardware, and look for pad contamination.

You can do this safely and cleanly if you take your time, use correct tools, and follow torques and safety steps. Replace both sides at once (both front rotors) for even braking performance.
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2006 Chevy Aveo Fuel Pump Relay & Fuse Location

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