Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

Role: Experienced automotive technician. Direct procedure, no questions.

Tools & supplies
- Floor jack + properly rated jack stands (2) and wheel chocks
- 1/2" breaker bar, 3/8" ratchet set, metric sockets (10–32 mm)
- Torque wrench (capable to 200+ ft·lb and 0–150 ft·lb ranges)
- Pry bar or large flat screwdriver (protected with rag)
- Seal puller or small pry bar and pick
- Seal driver or appropriately sized deep socket & soft mallet (rubber/wood)
- Snap‑ring pliers (if axle has circlip)
- Hammer, punch, drift (for hub nut/cotter pin removal)
- Needle‑nose pliers, wire brush, shop rags
- Drain pan, transmission fluid for refill
- New output shaft (axle) seal (match VIN/model/year) and new axle/hub nut (recommended)
- Gloves, safety glasses, penetrating oil
- Optional: axle puller, ball‑joint separator (pickle fork) or tie‑rod end separator

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work on a flat surface, park vehicle in gear (manual) or Park (auto), parking brake ON, chock rear wheels.
- Use jack stands under proper lift points; never rely on the hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep hands clear of springs and suspension components under load.
- Catch and properly dispose of leaked transaxle fluid. Clean up spills.

Overview (what you’re doing)
This replaces the transaxle output (axle) seal where the CV axle exits the transaxle case. You will remove the halfshaft from the hub/transaxle, extract it from the box, remove the old seal, install the new seal flush, then reassemble and refill/check fluid.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Prep
- Loosen (do not remove) the front axle nut with vehicle on ground if accessible — makes removal easier. Apply penetrating oil to nut/threads if needed.
- Raise front of car, support with jack stands on pinch/weld points. Remove front wheel.

2) Remove axle from hub
- Remove cotter pin and hub nut cap (if present). Remove axle nut (use breaker bar). Save or replace nut per shop practice.
- Separate lower ball joint or tie rod end to allow the hub assembly to swing out. Use ball‑joint separator or remove two lower-arm bolts depending on clearance method for Aveo T200.
- Once hub can move outward, push the CV axle spline out of the hub. You may need to strike the hub lightly with a hammer while supporting the axle, or pull the hub outward. Don’t hammer the CV shaft.
- If the inner CV is retained by a circlip in the transaxle, you may have to pull the shaft straight out until the circlip releases. Use a pry bar between transaxle case and CV housing and pry gently to pop the inner joint free. Protect the case with a rag/board to avoid gouging.

3) Catch fluid and access seal
- Have drain pan ready — some transaxle fluid will leak when the axle is pulled out. You can remove lower transaxle fill/check plug first to minimize vacuum and reduce fluid loss.
- With axle out of the transaxle a few inches, rotate it to view the seal area. Remove any retaining circlips if present.

4) Remove old seal
- Use a seal puller or small pry bar/pick to hook behind the outer lip of the seal and carefully pry it out. Work around evenly until the seal comes out. Avoid gouging or enlarging the bore in the transaxle housing.
- Clean the bore and surrounding area with a wire brush and rag. Remove old fluid and debris. Inspect the output shaft splines and the transaxle bore for nicks or corrosion.

5) Prepare and install new seal
- Lightly coat the inner lip of the new seal with clean transaxle fluid or assembly lube (no grease on the sealing lip).
- Center the new seal squarely on the bore. Using a seal driver or an appropriately sized deep socket that matches the outer diameter of the seal, tap the seal in evenly with a soft mallet until it is seated flush with the transaxle housing. Do not cock the seal or drive it in crooked — that will ruin the lip.
- Verify the seal is fully flush and not deformed. If the transaxle uses a retaining circlip behind the seal, reinstall it if removed.

How the tools are used (quick)
- Seal puller/pick: hooks behind seal lip; lever out gradually.
- Deep socket/seal driver: spreads installation force across seal outer metal case; tap with rubber/soft mallet until flush.
- Pry bar/screwdriver: used to pop axle out of transaxle; cushion contact area to avoid case damage.
- Torque wrench: final torque on hub/axle nut and suspension fasteners to factory spec.

6) Reinstall axle and reassemble
- Inspect CV boots; if torn, replace driveshaft or boot now.
- Clean axle splines, light coat of transaxle fluid on splines and seal lip.
- Slide axle back into transaxle. You should feel the retaining circlip engage; ensure it seats fully (pull gently outward to confirm).
- Reinsert axle into hub assembly, align splines, and push through. Install hub nut and torque to manufacturer spec. (Do not reuse cotter pin if the nut type requires a new one — replace as needed.)
- Reattach lower ball joint/tie rod end and torque fasteners to spec.

7) Refill and check
- Refill transaxle to correct level with the proper type of gear/transaxle fluid for the Aveo (check service manual for fluid type). If you removed fill plug earlier, top until level reaches plug hole.
- Reinstall fill/check plug and torque as specified.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, and torque lug nuts to spec.

8) Test
- With vehicle on ground, start engine and cycle through gears (or roll slowly) to let fluid circulate. Check for leaks at new seal while rotating steering lock-to-lock and under slight load. Re‑check fluid level after short test drive.

Parts typically required
- Correct output shaft (transaxle) oil seal (match by VIN/model/year)
- Replacement axle/hub nut (recommended)
- Transmission/transaxle fluid (amount depends on how much leaked — usually 0.5–2 L)
- New cotter pins or hardware if applicable
- Optional: new CV axle or CV boot if damaged

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Damaging the transaxle bore when prying: always protect the case with rag/board and use pry points on the axle housing, not thin case edges.
- Installing seal crooked or underdriven: use a seal driver/socket; tap evenly. A crooked seal will leak quickly.
- Hammering directly on seal or shaft: use soft mallet or driver; don’t strike the steel work surface or the seal.
- Reusing a damaged axle nut or cotter pin: replace them. Axle nuts often are torque-to-yield or single‑use in practice.
- Not checking/ topping transaxle fluid: you will lose fluid — top and level to spec or you risk gear damage.
- Not confirming circlip engagement: if the inner joint is not fully seated, the axle can work loose.
- Over‑tightening the hub nut beyond spec (can damage bearings) or undertightening (can result in play).

Time estimate
- 1.5–3 hours per side for a competent tech with typical tools; longer if seized components or complicated disassembly is required.

Final notes
- Always verify torque values and fluid type/levels from the Chevrolet service manual for the Aveo T200 before final assembly.
- If the transaxle case is cracked, the splines are damaged, or the axle circlip is broken, replace the damaged components rather than forcing reassembly.

Done.
rteeqp73

Ремонтируем Chevrolet Aveo T200. Август 2021. Ремонтируем Chevrolet Aveo первого поколения, в очень хорошем состоянии, который до последнего момента находился в ...

Chevrolet Aveo T200 rear wheelhub replacement || ENG SUB repair #chevrolet #carrepair This video shows how to change the rear wheelhub (wheelbearing) on Chevrolet Aveo (2002-2011).

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