Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

- Safety first (read and follow these every time)
- Wear safety glasses, mechanic’s gloves and steel-toe shoes.
- Work on a flat level surface, chock rear wheels, and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Use a quality floor jack and rated jack stands — never rely on a jack alone under the car.
- Drain transmission oil into a suitable container and dispose of it properly.
- If you must cut, grind or weld, ensure good ventilation and correct PPE (welding helmet, respirator for fumes).
- If you feel unsure at any step that involves heavy lifting, welding, or precision bearing fitting, stop and get professional help.

- Quick overview of what "gearbox housing repair" usually means for an Aveo T200
- Identify the problem first: housing cracks, stripped threads, damaged mounting bosses, or leaky seals.
- Small cosmetic damage and thread repair can be DIY; cracks in an aluminum case or damage to a structural boss often require professional welding or replacement of the housing or entire gearbox.
- Removing the gearbox is required for most housing repairs — that’s the biggest, most complex part of the job.

- Basic tools you should have (detailed description and how to use each)
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet and extensions
- Use to remove bolts on transmission bell housing, crossmember, driveshafts/CV axles. Choose correct socket size, push onto bolt, turn with steady force. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 1/2" drive and 3/8" for smaller bolts)
- Set required torque value, tighten until wrench clicks. Ensures bolts are neither loose nor over-tightened.
- Combination wrench set (open and boxed ends)
- For places sockets can’t reach. Match the correct size and pull, never yank.
- Breaker bar
- Provides leverage to loosen stubborn bolts. Use steady force; avoid sudden snapping motions.
- Floor jack and two axle/jack stands (rated)
- Jack at safe lifting points; lower car onto stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Place behind wheels left on ground to prevent rolling.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), pliers (needle nose, slip joint), hose pliers
- For removing clips, clamps, small fasteners and connectors.
- Pry bar and flat trim tools
- To separate transmission from engine gently; avoid prying on thin casting edges.
- Rubber mallet and dead blow hammer
- For gentle persuasion when parts are stuck; avoid hammering castings directly.
- Drain pan and hand pump for refilling fluid
- Catch old fluid and refill to correct level after reassembly.
- Funnel and transmission fluid (correct spec for Aveo)
- Use the manufacturer-recommended fluid. Filling method depends on gearbox (fill plug level).
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), wire brush and rags
- Soak stuck fasteners, clean mating surfaces.
- Seal puller and gasket scraper
- Remove old seals and gaskets without damaging bores or mating faces.
- Snap ring pliers
- Many internal gearbox assemblies use snap rings; use proper pliers to remove/install.
- Bearing puller / gear puller (small size)
- For removing bearings or gears from shafts when needed; use even pressure and proper puller size.
- Feeler gauges and dial caliper
- Measure clearances, shaft runout and bearing bores for inspection.
- Thread repair kit (Heli-Coil) and taps (metric)
- Use to repair stripped bolt holes in the housing; ensure correct drill/tap sizes for the insert.
- RTV gasket maker and threadlocker (medium strength)
- For sealing and securing bolts where specified.
- Parts cleaner (brake cleaner) and drain/parts trays
- Clean components before reassembly.
- Basic electrical tester / multimeter
- Test sensors (if gearbox has sensors) and wiring connections during reinstallation.

- Extra/specialty tools you may need and why (what they are and how to use)
- Transmission jack or a floor jack with a transmission adapter and wood block
- Needed to support the weight and shape of the gearbox safely during removal/reinstallation. Center gearbox on jack cradle, strap it for stability.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if engine needs to be supported to drop transmission)
- Some bolts or mounts require slight engine movement; support engine to prevent it from shifting.
- Clutch alignment tool (for manual transmission)
- Aligns clutch disc on input shaft during reassembly so transmission slides onto spline easily.
- Pilot bearing puller / bearing driver set and hydraulic press (or shop press)
- To remove/install bearings without damaging shafts. A press is safer and gives controlled force when pressing in new bearings.
- Torque angle gauge (if required by manual)
- For bolts that require torque + angle tightening.
- TIG/MIG welder and aluminum welding competence (or a professional welder)
- Aveo gearbox housings are aluminum alloy — welding aluminum requires TIG/MIG and skill. Heating, filler choice and post-weld treatment matter; inexperienced welding can cause warping or new leaks. Recommend professional welding if housing crack is to be welded.
- Drill press and spot-facer (if you must reseat bolt faces)
- For resurfacing or cleaning up mounting surfaces precisely.
- Heat source (propane torch) and oven for preheating (ONLY if you and shop know aluminum welding/annealing)
- Preheating may be required for professional repairs to avoid cracking; do not use without proper knowledge.

- How to approach the job (diagnosis and deciding repair vs replace)
- Visually inspect the housing for cracks, hairline fractures, broken mounting ears, or stripped threads.
- Check for oil leakage points and determine if leak is seal/gasket related (easier) or a crack in aluminum (serious).
- If bolts are stripped near mounting surfaces, check if Heli-Coil inserts will restore thread strength — this is common and often DIY-friendly.
- If housing has a structural crack near bearing bores or a fractured mount boss, replacement of the housing or replacement of the entire gearbox is usually the safer option.
- If internal parts (bearings, synchros, gears) are worn or damaged, repairing housing alone will not solve drivability — rebuild or replace gearbox.

- Step-by-step tasks (bulleted sequence of major activities you will perform)
- Prepare workspace: gather tools, chock wheels, disconnect battery, lift and support car safely on stands.
- Drain transmission oil into pan, remove any belly pan or shields for access.
- Disconnect driveshafts/CV axles from the gearbox; remove speedometer cable/sensor and wiring connectors from the gearbox.
- Support engine if needed and support gearbox on transmission jack; remove gearbox mounting bolts, starter, clutch slave/throwout components as required for clearance.
- Carefully separate gearbox from engine; lower gearbox on transmission jack and move it out from under car.
- Clean gearbox exterior and locate damage: hairline crack, broken boss, stripped threads, or leaking seam.
- For stripped bolt holes: drill to specified size, install Heli-Coil per kit instructions, use correct length insert, test bolt fit.
- For small non-structural cracks (cosmetic or surface): clean area thoroughly, prep per product instructions, use suitable aluminum epoxy or low-pressure aluminum brazing as temporary fix — not recommended for structural load areas.
- For structural cracks in aluminum housing: do not rely on epoxy. Either:
- Have a shop TIG-weld the crack and perform post-weld machining and leak testing, or
- Replace the housing or entire gearbox (recommended for safety and longevity).
- If replacing bearings or seals while gearbox is out:
- Disassemble gearbox internals only if you have experience, a clean workspace and required internal tools (press, pullers, measurement tools).
- Replace input/output shaft bearings, front/rear seals, and any worn synchro rings or gears. Use replacement kits from a reputable supplier.
- Reassemble with correct clearances checked against factory specs (service manual).
- Reinstall gearbox: use torque wrench to factory torque specs, reconnect all linkages, sensors, axles, and mounts. Refill with specified gearbox oil and check level per service procedure.
- Road test carefully, check for leaks and abnormal noises. Re-torque bolts after short drive if manual recommends.

- When replacement is required and what to replace
- Replace the gearbox housing if:
- There is a structural crack in the case near bearing bores, shifter bosses, or mounting points.
- A mounting ear is broken and welding is not an option or not done correctly.
- Replace the entire gearbox if:
- Internal damage is present (bad bearings, broken gears, bent shafts) or if the housing repair would be expensive relative to a used/rebuilt unit.
- Common parts to replace whenever the gearbox is out:
- Front and rear output seals and input shaft seal (leaky seals are common).
- Input shaft bearing and output shaft bearings (cheap insurance).
- Clutch release bearing and pilot bearing (manual transmissions).
- Clutch disc and pressure plate if worn (if clutch is easy to replace when gearbox is out).
- Gearbox gaskets/seal kit and speedometer sensor O-rings.
- Fasteners if any are damaged or stretched; use threadlocker where specified.
- Part sourcing advice:
- OE or good-quality aftermarket rebuild kits for bearings/seals.
- Rebuilt transmissions from reputable supplier if you choose replacement.
- A used core transmission from a salvage yard can be cost-effective; check for leaks and play in shafts before buying.

- How to use a few key tools safely and effectively (practical tips)
- Torque wrench: set required torque, fasten bolt slowly until click; re-check torque in sequence after brief use.
- Jack and jack stands: lift at manufacturer-approved jacking points, place stands solidly under pinch welds or subframe, lower car slowly onto stands, give car a push to confirm stability.
- Transmission jack: center gearbox on saddle, strap it tightly, use jack to raise gearbox squarely to engine mating surface — never force misaligned splines.
- Heli-Coil installation: drill to specified size, tap the hole, screw in insert tool while keeping insert top even with surface, break the tang off. Use correct drill and tap sizes from the kit.
- Bearing removal with puller: use the correct puller jaws and center screw; turn the screw slowly and evenly while supporting shaft to avoid bending.
- Welding (if you must do it yourself): do not attempt welding aluminum housing unless you have a TIG welder, filler rods for aluminum, and experience. Aluminium conducts heat quickly; poor welds will crack or distort bores. Strongly prefer professional welding / machine shop.

- Testing after repair and final checks
- Inspect all mating surfaces for proper seal; replace gaskets and use RTV only where specified.
- Fill gearbox to correct level and type of oil; check for leaks around repaired area.
- Start engine, run through gears (with car safely supported or during road test) and listen for abnormal noises or leaks.
- Re-check bolt torques after a short test drive and after 500 miles.

- Final recommendations (short)
- For stripped threads and small non-structural damage: DIY repair with Heli-Coil and new seals is practical for a beginner.
- For cracks in an aluminum gearbox housing or damage to bearing bores: replace the housing or the entire gearbox or have a professional perform welding and machining. This is not a reliable DIY fix unless you have specialized welding and machining skills.
- Buy the factory service manual for the Aveo T200 for torque specs, clearances and fluid types — essential for a correct repair.
- If in doubt at any point (welding, bearing fitment, or gearbox reassembly), use a reputable transmission shop. A bad repair can cause catastrophic failure and higher cost later.

- Parts checklist you may need to purchase
- Transmission/seal gasket kit (seals, O-rings)
- Bearing kit (input/output bearings)
- Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) if applicable
- Heli-Coil thread repair kit (metric) and tap/drill set per kit instructions
- Transmission fluid (correct spec/quantity)
- Replacement gearbox or rebuilt unit if housing is irreparable
- RTV sealant, threadlocker, shop rags and parts cleaner

- Quick closing note
- Gearbox housing repair on an Aveo T200 is a medium-to-high complexity job because the gearbox must be dropped and aluminum cases are difficult to weld reliably. Do the simpler fixes (seals, thread repair) yourself; send structural welding or full rebuilds to a specialist.
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Chevrolet Aveo LT T200 2005г

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