Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & parts needed
- Fuel pressure gauge with Schrader valve adapter (0–100 psi range).
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (GM-style U/slot or flat ring type, 5–10 mm depending on line).
- 8, 10, 13 mm sockets + ratchet; extension; Torx set if required.
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, pliers.
- Pick set (for O‑rings).
- Clean rags, catch pan, gloves, safety glasses.
- New fuel pressure regulator for Chevy Aveo T200 (match VIN/engine: some engines use an external regulator on the fuel rail; others require replacing the fuel rail assembly).
- New O‑rings/seals (replace any O‑rings on regulator/lines).
- Torque wrench (optional — tighten to snug, do not overtorque).
- Fire extinguisher nearby.

Safety first
- Work in a well-ventilated area, no open flames, sparks, or smoking.
- Relieve fuel system pressure before disconnecting lines.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal for safety after pressure relief.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Contain spilled fuel and clean up immediately.
- Keep a fire extinguisher within reach.

Quick overview of location
- On Aveo T200 the fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel rail (rear/top of intake side). It has a vacuum hose and a fuel return/connection. Some variants integrate the regulator into the fuel rail — confirm parts before ordering.

Step A — Test/diagnose before replacing
1. Ensure vehicle is parked, engine off. Remove fuel pump fuse or relay (to prevent pump running during relieve) or disconnect fuel pump electrical connector.
2. Start engine and let it stall to relieve most pressure, or use the fuel pressure Schrader valve to bleed pressure into a rag/catch. Turn ignition to ON for 2–3 seconds to prime once fuse/relay removed, then crank to clear. Always capture fuel safely.
3. Connect fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Reinstall pump fuse/relay. Turn key to ON — note gauge reading (should build to spec). Typical spec ~35–40 psi (check shop manual for exact number for your engine).
4. Start engine and note pressure at idle. With vacuum hose connected, pressure will be lower. Carefully pull vacuum hose off regulator (while engine idling) — if pressure rises ~8–12 psi with vacuum removed, regulator diaphragm is functioning. If pressure does not change or pressure is too low/high outside spec, suspect bad regulator.
5. Inspect vacuum hose for fuel — presence of fuel in the vacuum line = ruptured diaphragm → replace regulator. Also check for external fuel leaks at regulator or fittings.

Step B — Remove old regulator
1. Relieve fuel pressure again (as above). Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2. Locate regulator on the fuel rail. Remove any engine covers or intake components blocking access.
3. Remove the vacuum hose from the regulator using pliers if needed. Cap hose to avoid dirt ingress.
4. Use the appropriate fuel line disconnect tool to disconnect the fuel feed/return lines from the regulator/fuel rail. Have rags and a catch pan ready for residual fuel.
5. Remove mounting screws/bolts securing regulator to rail (typically small bolts or bracket). Keep hardware.
6. Pull regulator straight out; remove old O‑ring(s) or seal. Inspect fuel rail seating surface for debris — clean with lint-free rag. If regulator is integrated to the fuel rail (no removable regulator), you will need to replace the entire fuel rail assembly — do not attempt to pry.

Step C — Install new regulator
1. Lubricate new O‑rings lightly with clean engine oil or approved O‑ring lubricant. Do NOT use petroleum jelly.
2. Install O‑rings on new regulator. Push regulator evenly into the fuel rail until seated.
3. Reinstall mounting bolts; snug to spec (do not overtighten plastic rail).
4. Reconnect fuel lines using the proper quick-connect until they click/lock. Reattach vacuum hose.
5. Reconnect negative battery terminal.

Step D — Pressurize & check
1. Turn ignition to ON (do not start) to prime pump; inspect all connections for leaks. Repeat twice.
2. Start engine, check fuel pressure gauge for proper reading at idle and with vacuum removed (see test steps).
3. Road test and re-check for leaks. Clear any stored codes with a scanner if present and verify vehicle runs correctly.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not relieving fuel pressure → pressurized spray and fire hazard. Always relieve first.
- Using incorrect replacement part — confirm part number for your Aveo T200 engine (some require full fuel rail assembly).
- Reusing old O‑rings — always replace O‑rings to prevent leaks.
- Pushing regulator in crooked or overtightening hardware — can damage O‑rings or crack rail.
- Not checking vacuum line for fuel — this indicates diaphragm failure and requires replacement.
- Contaminating fuel rail with dirt — keep parts clean and work in a clean area.
- Forgetting to reconnect vacuum or electrical connectors — causes drivability issues.

Tool usage specifics
- Fuel pressure gauge: screw the Schrader adapter onto the rail valve (or adapter into the test port) and tighten hand‑tight; use gauge to read static (key ON) and running (idle) pressures. Use the gauge connector bleed valve or remove gauge to relieve test pressure when done.
- Fuel line disconnect tool: slide tool over fuel line collar and depress the retaining tab/clip while pulling the line off the fitting. Use the correct size/shape for GM quick-connects to avoid damaging plastic fittings.
- Torque wrench: tighten regulator mounting bolts to light torque (hand tight + small fraction). If unknown, snug and avoid over-torque.

Replacement parts required
- Fuel pressure regulator (match vehicle/engine).
- O‑rings/seals (usually included with regulator; if not, order separately).
- Possible replacement: fuel rail assembly (if regulator integrated), vacuum hose if cracked, fuel line connectors if damaged.

Final checks
- No fuel leaks, correct fuel pressure (manufacturer spec), vacuum hose dry, good idle and no codes. If problems persist, inspect fuel pump, pressure relief/check valves, fuel filter, and wiring.

Done.
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Short overview: the “blow‑by tube” on the Aveo T200 is the crankcase ventilation hose/PCV path that carries combustion gases from the crankcase (valve cover/oil separator) back to the intake so they’re burned. A failed tube/hose or clogged PCV causes crankcase pressure, oil leaks, rough idle, smoke/oil in intake. The repair is replacing/repairing the hose/PCV and restoring proper crankcase ventilation. Below are ordered actions with the theory behind each step.

1) Confirm symptom and locate the part
- Action: Note symptoms (oil on engine/intake, oil in air cleaner, smoking from breather, rough idle, whistling, MIL). Open the hood and locate the valve cover breather/PCV valve and the hose that runs to the intake manifold/throttle body.
- Theory: Symptoms indicate either a leaking hose/connection or excessive blow‑by (positive crankcase pressure). Identifying the routing locates the component that must be tested/repaired.

2) Safety and preparation
- Action: Park on level ground, set parking brake, engine cool, ignition OFF, remove negative battery terminal if you’ll be disconnecting sensors or working near electrical parts. Gather clamps, OEM replacement hose/PCV, small rags, pliers, screwdrivers.
- Theory: Prevents burns, shorts, and accidental starts. Replacement parts must be correct inner diameter and heat/oil resistant to restore original flow characteristics.

3) Inspect visually and by hand
- Action: Visually inspect the hose for cracks, soft spots, oil saturation, collapsed sections, and inspect connectors and clamps. Squeeze the hose and wiggle connectors.
- Theory: Older rubber/hose collapses or cracks allow leaks or restrictions. Oil‑soaked hose can degrade and block flow. A leaking connection allows fresh air in, defeating crankcase evacuation and altering air/fuel.

4) Functional test (engine running)
- Action: With the engine idling and warmed, carefully remove the PCV valve from the valve cover (or disconnect one end of the hose) and feel/observe the flow at the valve opening: you should feel vacuum (suction) at idle. If you get strong positive pressure (air blowing out) or oil spray, that indicates excessive blow‑by (internal) or a clog downstream.
- Theory: A properly working PCV system draws crankcase gases into the intake (vacuum). Positive pressure means gases build up in the crankcase (excessive blow‑by or blockage), and that’s why oil is being pushed out. This differentiates between a bad hose/PCV vs. internal engine wear.

5) Remove the old hose/PCV
- Action: Loosen clamps and pull the hose off the PCV valve and intake port. Remove the PCV valve/insert and the hose routing clips. Clean the mating points with rag to remove oil.
- Theory: Removing the failed component exposes the path and lets you assess whether it’s blocked or just leaking. Cleaning ensures the new hose seals to clean surfaces without trapped debris.

6) Inspect/remove oil separator/baffle if present
- Action: If the Aveo has an oil separator/catch can in the line, remove and inspect for sludge. Clean or replace as required.
- Theory: Sludge can block the flow and produce pressure; cleaning restores free flow and proper vapor separation.

7) Fit the replacement hose/PCV
- Action: Install a correct OE‑spec hose/PCV valve. Ensure hose runs without kinks, is supported by existing clips, and clamps are tightened to snug (not over‑torque). Replace any grommets or O‑rings that are brittle.
- Theory: A new hose of correct size and material restores the designed internal diameter and elasticity so the PCV system maintains correct vacuum draw and sealing. Proper routing prevents collapse and chafing that would cause future failure.

8) Reassemble and test for leaks and function
- Action: Reconnect everything, start engine, recheck the PCV valve opening for vacuum (suction) at idle. Inspect for oil leaks at hose ends and along routing. Check idle quality and look for oil smoke/odors.
- Theory: Confirming vacuum and absence of leaks proves the ventilation path is restored. Improved idle/oil control shows the fault was in the hose/PCV rather than the engine internals.

9) If positive crankcase pressure or oil spray persists
- Action: Perform compression and/or leak‑down tests on cylinders and inspect valve cover gasket, oil filter housing, and other seals. A persistent blow‑by problem indicates worn rings/bores or valve issues and requires engine repair.
- Theory: Replacing the blow‑by tube only fixes ventilation and leaks due to hose failure or blockage. If internal sealing is poor, crankcase pressure will remain high and cause recurring oil push‑out even with a new hose—root cause is internal combustion gases bypassing piston rings (blow‑by).

10) Final checks and cleanup
- Action: Tighten clamps to spec, dispose of oil‑soaked rags properly, reconnect battery if disconnected, clear any stored engine fault codes if present, road test to confirm.
- Theory: Ensuring seals and clamps are secure prevents recurrence. Clearing codes and a road test verify that the repair resolved drivability or emissions symptoms.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- A failed/cracked/clogged blow‑by tube or PCV valve either allows leakage that introduces unmetered air or blocks evacuation so crankcase pressure rises. Replacing/cleaning the hose and PCV restores the designed sealed path and vacuum‑driven flow of crankcase vapors into the intake. That prevents oil being forced out, stops oil and vapor deposits in the intake and airbox, stabilizes idle and fuel metering, and reduces oil contamination and smells. If high crankcase pressure persists after the hose/PCV is renewed, the underlying cause is internal engine wear (excessive blow‑by) which requires engine mechanical repair.

Safety note: don’t block the ventilation while engine running; catch spilled oil to avoid fires.
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