Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

Quick overview — why you’d recharge the AC:
- The AC uses a sealed refrigerant loop to move heat out of the passenger compartment. If the system is low on refrigerant (a “leak” or previous loss), cooling drops or stops. Recharging restores correct refrigerant charge so the system can cool properly.
- Important: refrigerant is controlled by law in many countries — you must recover refrigerant instead of venting it. If you’re inexperienced or don’t have recovery/evacuation gear, get a professional to do the recovery and final charge.

Basic theory — how the AC works (simple analogies):
- Think of the system as a closed-loop “heat pump” or refrigeration cycle. Refrigerant is the working fluid (like blood) that absorbs heat in the cabin and dumps it outside.
- Major steps:
1. Compressor = the heart. It pressurizes refrigerant vapor, raising temperature and pressure.
2. Condenser = radiator at the front. High-pressure hot vapor flows here, cools and condenses to a high-pressure liquid (releases heat to outside air).
3. Receiver/drier or accumulator + filter = sponge and sieve. Removes moisture, stores some refrigerant, and filters debris. (Small cars like the Aveo commonly use an accumulator and an orifice tube or sometimes a receiver/drier if expansion valve used.)
4. Expansion device (orifice tube or TXV) = tiny nozzle. Drops pressure of liquid refrigerant; pressure drop causes rapid cooling and partial evaporation.
5. Evaporator = cabin evaporator coil (inside dash). Low-pressure cold refrigerant absorbs heat from cabin air and evaporates, cooling the air blown into the cabin.
6. Refrigerant vapor returns to compressor and cycle repeats.
- Pressure switch and clutch control: compressor clutch engages when system demands cooling; pressure switches protect against over/under pressure.

Key components on the Aveo T200 (what each looks like and does)
- Compressor: mounted on engine, belt-driven. Has an electromagnetic clutch on the front. It compresses refrigerant and circulates it.
- Condenser: in front of radiator, a finned coil. Removes heat from refrigerant.
- Receiver/drier or accumulator: small canister in high/low side lines (accumulator on suction side before compressor in orifice systems). Contains desiccant to remove moisture and an inlet/outlet or fittings for lines.
- Orifice tube or expansion valve: orifice tube is a fixed brass piece in the liquid line (often located in a serviceable tube near the evaporator inlet). It meters refrigerant flow and creates the pressure drop.
- Evaporator: inside the HVAC case under dash. Air passes over it and is cooled.
- Service ports: two quick-connect ports on the lines — low-pressure (bigger fitting, usually labeled L or LOW) and high-pressure (smaller, labeled H or HIGH).
- Hoses/lines & O-rings: rubber/metal lines that carry refrigerant; O-rings seal connections.

Tools & supplies (minimum, and recommended)
- Safety glasses, gloves (refrigerant causes frostbite), long sleeves.
- Manifold gauge set for R134a rated, hoses, and adapters.
- Refrigerant recovery/recycling machine (required by law in many places) or take existing refrigerant to a shop for recovery.
- Vacuum pump (to evacuate moisture/air).
- Scale (to charge by weight — most accurate).
- R134a refrigerant (confirm sticker under hood — do not assume).
- Replacement receiver/drier or accumulator and O-rings (if system opened).
- Leak detector (electronic or UV dye + UV light) and soap solution for quick checks.
- Thermometer to measure vent temps.
- Basic hand tools and torque wrenches.

Safety and legal notes (don’t skip)
- Never intentionally vent refrigerant to atmosphere — illegal and harmful. Use recovery equipment or a professional shop.
- Wear eye/skin protection. Refrigerant can cause frostbite on contact.
- Work on a cool engine, avoid moving belts/pulleys. Disconnect negative battery if advised by service manual when working on electrical components.
- Use manufacturer-approved refrigerant and lubricants (PAG oil type/amount). Mixing oils/incorrect amounts can destroy the compressor.

Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly, with detail)
1. Identify refrigerant type and full charge amount
- Check the under-hood sticker/dash tag for the refrigerant type (probably R134a on Aveo T200) and factory charge amount. If you can’t find it, consult the service manual.

2. Pre-checks and visual inspection
- Inspect condenser and fins for debris, crushed fins, or leaks.
- Look for oily residue around fittings, hoses, compressor shaft, or condenser — signs of leaks.
- Check drive belt condition and tension.
- Verify the cooling fan(s) work (they should run with AC on at certain temps).

3. Locate service ports
- Low side = larger diameter suction line, typically between evaporator & compressor (near firewall/accumulator). Cap usually marked LOW or L.
- High side = smaller liquid line between condenser and accumulator/receiver. Cap marked HIGH or H.
- Clean caps before removing to avoid contamination.

4. Recover existing refrigerant (required)
- Connect recovery machine per instructions and recover refrigerant from system. Save the recovered refrigerant if your local regulations allow re-use and the recovered refrigerant is clean; otherwise have it handled by a compressor shop.
- If you don’t have recovery gear, take the vehicle to a licensed shop. Do not vent.

5. Repair leaks if present
- Use electronic leak detector or UV dye to find leaks. Common leak spots: hose O-rings, condenser (front-end damage), schrader valves/service port seals, accumulator/receiver seams.
- Replace failed components (hose, O-rings, condenser, accumulator). When replacing components or opening system to atmosphere, replace receiver/drier or accumulator (desiccant saturates when exposed).
- Always replace O-rings (lubricate with correct oil), tighten to spec.

6. Replace the accumulator/receiver orifice tube if opened
- If you open the system or replace the compressor, replace the accumulator/receiver and the orifice tube (or clean/replace it if clogged).
- Ensure correct installation direction of accumulator.

7. Evacuate system with vacuum pump
- Connect manifold gauges and vacuum pump. Evacuate down to around 500 microns if possible; the pump should run for at least 30–45 minutes (longer if system was open).
- This removes air and moisture — moisture will cause acid formation and compressor damage.
- Close valves, turn off pump, and verify vacuum holds (no rise in pressure) for 10–15 minutes. If vacuum does not hold, there is still a leak.

8. Charge system with refrigerant
- Best method: charge by weight with a scale using the exact manufacturer-specified refrigerant mass. Add refrigerant with compressor running (so it draws in vapor). For systems that specify charging in cooling mode and by weight, follow the manual exactly.
- If you cannot charge by weight (less accurate), you can add through the low-side port with the car on, engine idle, AC on max. Add slowly while monitoring low/high pressures and cabin temp. Stop when pressures and temps reach expected ranges. This method risks under/overcharging. Use only when necessary.
- Typical charging basics (ballpark R134a guidance — exact values depend on ambient temp and system):
- Low-side steady idle pressures often around 25–45 psi.
- High-side pressures vary widely with ambient temp (e.g., ~175–300 psi). Use gauge readings plus temperature measurements or service manual tables to judge.
- After charging, run system and measure evaporator outlet/cabin vent temps. Expect several degrees drop (thermostat or service manual gives expected delta T).

9. Final checks
- Check for leaks again after charge (soap bubbles at fittings or electronic detector).
- Verify compressor cycles on/off properly, clutch engages, fans run, and cabin air is cooling to expected temperature.
- Clean up, replace service port caps, and document refrigerant added.

Measuring correct charge — superheat and subcooling (brief)
- Charging by weight is preferred. If you must use pressures, learn to measure superheat (evaporator outlet temperature minus saturation temp at low side) or subcooling (liquid line temp minus saturation temp at high side) for accurate charge if you have the tools. These methods require a temperature probe and tables — they’re more advanced but produce reliable results.

Common things that go wrong and symptoms
- Leak at O-ring, hose or condenser: slow loss of refrigerant, weak cooling. Fix by replacing O-ring/hose/condenser.
- Clogged orifice tube: poor cooling, frost in wrong places, high low-side pressures erratic. Replace orifice tube and flush lines if needed.
- Moisture in system: causes acid and corrosion; compressor damage. Always replace drier/accumulator when system opened.
- Compressor failure (electrical coil or mechanical): clutch won’t engage or compressor won’t pressurize; little/no cooling. Replace compressor and follow oil recovery/charge/O-ring procedures.
- Bad pressure switch: can prevent clutch engagement. Test switch and wiring.
- Condenser clogged/damaged: poor heat rejection -> high head pressure and poor cooling. Clean or replace condenser.
- Overcharging or undercharging: both reduce performance and can damage compressor. Charge by weight to avoid this.

Troubleshooting quick-checks (beginner tips)
- AC on, engine idle, fan on high: low-side pressure should be noticeably lower than ambient pressure; if low-side is near ambient and no cooling, likely low refrigerant or compressor not running.
- If compressor clutch doesn’t engage but engine runs: check fuses, relay, pressure switches, and clutch coil for power.
- If system suddenly stops cooling after adding refrigerant: could be overcharged, compressor safety switch tripped, or moisture caused freeze. Pull codes and check pressures.

Final notes (practical realities)
- If you opened the system, replace the receiver/accumulator and orifice tube to avoid contamination/moisture problems.
- Charging by weight + proper evacuation is the reliable professional method. “Can tap” charging is common for DIY but less accurate and can hide leaks or cause damage if done incorrectly.
- If you are not comfortable using recovery and vacuum equipment, or if you find leaks/compressor issues, take the Aveo to an AC shop. Refrigerant handling and vacuuming are important for long-term reliability.

That’s the practical beginner’s recipe: inspect, find/fix leaks, recover refrigerant, replace desiccant/parts if opened, fully evacuate, charge by weight to factory spec, test. Follow safety and legal rules about refrigerant recovery.
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Short overview
- The front lower suspension arm (control arm) on the Aveo T200 links the wheel knuckle to the chassis, controls wheel position while the wheel moves up/down, and locates the wheel laterally. Repair usually means replacing the whole arm assembly or its worn components (bushing, ball joint). This fixes clunks, loose steering, uneven tire wear, and poor alignment.

Why this repair is needed (theory, in plain language)
- Function: imagine the wheel as the hand at the end of your arm. The control arm is the forearm that keeps the hand in the right place while the elbow (the ball joint) allows motion. Bushings are the rubber cushions at the chassis end that let the arm pivot smoothly while damping vibration. The ball joint is a spherical bearing that lets the knuckle rotate and steer while controlling vertical travel.
- If bushings wear or harden, the arm moves too much, causing slop (looseness), noise, and alignment shift. If the ball joint wears, the wheel can have vertical/play movement and eventually separate — a severe safety risk. Rusted or bent arms change geometry and stress tires/brakes/steering.
- Common symptoms: clunking over bumps, steering wander, pulling to one side, uneven/inner tire wear, vibration, looseness when you grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle.

Components you will see and what each does
- Control arm (lower arm): metal A- or L-shaped piece that connects subframe/chassis to the steering knuckle.
- Bushing(s): rubber or polyurethane sleeves pressed into the arm mounting points; pivot cushion between arm and chassis.
- Ball joint: tapered stud and socket connecting arm to steering knuckle; allows rotation and load transfer.
- Mounting bolts & nuts: secure arm to subframe and ball joint to knuckle. Some are pinch/torque-to-yield types—replace if specified.
- Steering knuckle (wheel hub carrier): connects wheel hub/brake assembly to suspension and steering tie rod.
- Sway bar end link: often attaches near or to the control arm; controls body roll transfer.
- Strut (MacPherson) assembly: vertical spring/damper attached to knuckle; you must support knuckle so the strut spring doesn’t pull on things uncontrolled.
- Wheel/lug nuts, axle shaft splines (on CV axle equipped models): the hub/axle connect to knuckle; don’t let axle separate under load.
- Cotter pins, dust caps, grease fittings (if present): secure and protect.

Tools and consumables (detailed)
- Vehicle service manual or verified torque specs (essential for final torques).
- Floor jack and quality jack stands (rated for vehicle).
- Wheel chocks.
- Breaker bar, ratchet, sockets (commonly 10–21 mm), deep sockets.
- Torx/Allen if needed for caliper bracket.
- Torque wrench (ft·lb or Nm).
- Ball-joint separator/pickle fork or tie-rod puller style separator.
- Hammer, pry bar.
- Penetrant (PB Blaster), wire brush, rags.
- Torque/impact gun (optional; don’t torque with impact).
- Safety glasses, gloves.
- Replacement control arm assembly or bushings/ball joint and new nuts/bolts if required.
- Anti-seize or thread locker if specified.
- New cotter pin (if applicable).
- Grease (if ball joint has grease fitting).
- Wheel chocks and spare wheel torque wrench.

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Work on a flat surface. Chock rear wheels. Break lug nuts loose with vehicle on ground before jacking.
- Use jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
- Support the steering knuckle with a jack or strap when the ball joint is disconnected so the strut spring doesn’t drop or the CV shaft doesn’t bind.
- If any spring compression is needed (rare for just the control arm), use a proper spring compressor and extreme caution.
- Always torque to specification; loose bolts can fail, and over-torquing can stretch bolts.

Diagnosis & inspection steps
1. Visual: look for torn ball joint boot, grease leakage, cracked/broken bushings, rusted arm, bent metal.
2. Physical:
- With wheel off, support car on stands. Grab wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock and try to rock in/out. Play indicates ball joint or wheel bearing.
- Grab wheel at 9 and 3 o’clock; movement indicates tie rod or wheel bearing issues.
- Use a pry bar between arm and knuckle to check bushing movement; excessive movement or cracking = replace.
3. Road symptoms: clunking over bumps, pulling, uneven wear → suspect arm/bushings/ball joint.
4. If ball joint boot is torn, plan to replace assembly — dirt ingress accelerates failure.

Step-by-step repair (replace lower control arm assembly)
Note: this is a general sequence for the T200-era Aveo front lower control arm. Follow the vehicle manual for torque specs and details unique to your exact model/year.

Preparation
- Park on level surface, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while car is on ground.

Lift and initial removal
1. Jack up the front and support with jack stands under the subframe or pinch welds per manual. Ensure stands are secure.
2. Remove front wheel.

Remove components attached to the arm
3. Remove brake caliper or at least free it: remove caliper bolts and hang caliper with wire (do not let it hang by brake hose). In many cases you can keep rotor on and leave caliper aside.
4. Remove sway bar end link if it attaches to the arm (unbolt the nut). Use penetrating oil and an assistant to hold the stud if needed.
5. Remove any ABS sensor wire bracket or brake line bracket attached to arm.
6. If there is a hub nut or axle retention that blocks ball joint separation (on some cars), check axle retention procedure. On the Aveo T200 the axle is usually retained in the hub and you should not remove the hub unless needed—support the knuckle.

Separate ball joint from knuckle
7. Loosen (but don’t remove) the ball joint nut a few turns. This leaves threads engaged to prevent the knuckle from falling when separated.
8. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork between the ball joint taper and the knuckle. Strike with hammer/puller to separate. Once separated, remove the ball joint nut and push the knuckle aside—support it with a jack or strap so the strut spring and CV joint are not loaded/unloaded suddenly.
- Tip: If the nut is seized, apply penetrating oil and gently heat the nut (be cautious near brake lines). Use breaker bar or impact tool as appropriate.

Remove control arm from subframe
9. Locate the control arm mounting bolts at the chassis/subframe. There are usually two bolts. Remove nuts and slide bolts out. You may need to support the arm as you remove bolts.
10. Remove the control arm from the vehicle. Note how it sits and orientation for installation.

Cleaning and preparation
11. Clean mounting surfaces and inspect surrounding components (subframe, mounts, knuckle) for damage or corrosion. Wire-brush rust off bolts, but replace bolts that are corroded or deformed.

Install new control arm
12. Position new control arm in place. Insert the mounting bolts but do not fully torque yet—leave them finger-tight or snug to allow settling/alignment.
13. Insert ball joint stud into knuckle and install nut to spec but don’t fully final torque until the vehicle is on the ground unless the manual says otherwise. Some manufacturers require bushings to be torqued with the vehicle at ride height. Check manual. If no such instruction, torque to spec when installed.
14. Reattach sway bar link and any brackets.
15. Reinstall brake caliper and wheel.

Torquing sequence and final checks
16. Lower vehicle until wheels touch ground (or fully on ground per manual) before final torquing if manual requires ride-height torquing of bushing bolts.
17. Torque all bolts to manufacturer specifications. If you don’t have exact spec, consult a factory manual or a reliable database. Replace any torque-to-yield bolts with new ones if required by service manual.
18. Install wheel, torque lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.
19. Do a final visual check for clearance, proper routing of brake lines and ABS wires, and that the knuckle has full motion.

Post-repair procedures
- Wheel alignment: required after replacing control arm (affects camber/toe). Drive to alignment shop or use alignment tools.
- Test drive: start with low-speed drive checking for noise, pull, or vibration. Re-check torques after first 50–100 miles.

What can go wrong and how to avoid it
- Bad torque practice: under-torquing causes bolts to work loose; over-torquing stretches bolts. Always use a torque wrench and factory specs.
- Letting knuckle hang: can damage CV joints or brake lines; always support knuckle.
- Not replacing seized bolts: trying to force seized bolts may round heads—cut or drill them out and use new ones.
- Ignoring alignment: even a perfectly installed arm will cause poor handling if alignment isn’t corrected.
- Reusing single-use fasteners: some bolts are torque-to-yield—replace them.
- Improper ball joint separation: using the wrong tool can tear boots or stress components. Use a proper separator.
- Incorrect mounting orientation: some arms are handed; install correctly.
- Not checking adjacent parts: worn tie rods, struts, or bushings can cause premature wear of a new arm.

Testing after repair (what to check)
- No clunks over bumps; steering stable.
- No uneven tire wear immediately visible.
- No abnormal noises at slow speeds while turning.
- Proper toe/camber per alignment report.

Maintenance tips and lifespan
- Inspect ball joint boots and bushings during oil changes or tire rotations.
- Clean and apply rust protectant to bolts and arm if you live in salted-road areas.
- Expect bushings to wear over years; check when symptoms appear.

Analogy to keep it simple
- Think of the whole assembly as your arm and shoulder: the control arm is the forearm, the bushing is the shoulder socket pad that lets the arm rotate smoothly, and the ball joint is the elbow that lets the hand (wheel) pivot while supporting weight. If the shoulder pad is worn or the elbow loose, the hand won’t be steady and you’ll feel it when reaching (driving).

Final practical notes (condensed)
- Get a factory repair manual for exact torque specs and any special instructions for your Aveo T200 (model year variations exist).
- Replace the whole control arm assembly if either the bushing or ball joint is badly worn—cheaper and more reliable for a beginner than trying to press in parts.
- Always do an alignment after replacement.

You now have the full theory, the parts list, the tools, step-by-step removal and installation sequence, safety warnings, common pitfalls, testing steps, and an analogy to help remember. Follow the factory manual for torque numbers and any model-year quirks.
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