Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

- Safety first (read this before doing anything)
- This job involves compressed springs and heavy components; failure can cause serious injury or death.
- If you are a complete beginner and do not have a proper spring compressor or confidence working with compressed springs, buy a new complete front strut assembly (spring already installed) and replace the assembly instead of disassembling the old strut. That avoids compressing springs.
- Always work on a flat surface, use wheel chocks, a good quality jack and rated jack stands, wear eye protection and gloves, and follow torque specs from a factory repair manual for your Aveo T200.
- After replacing any suspension component, a professional wheel alignment is required.

- Tools you probably already have (basic tools) — what they are and how to use them
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Lifts the vehicle by the pinch weld or jacking point. Use to raise one corner or front of the car. Never rely on it for support; always use jack stands.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Support the car safely after lifting. Place them under rated jacking points or subframe. Lower the jack so weight rests on stands before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Prevent the vehicle from rolling. Place behind rear wheels on same axle you’re working on (opposite end if lifting front).
- Lug wrench or 1/2" drive breaker bar + appropriate socket for lug nuts
- Break and remove wheel lug nuts. Use breaker bar for leverage; not the jack.
- Socket set with ratchet (metric sizes), extensions, and deep sockets
- Remove bolts and nuts on strut, knuckle, sway bar link, brake line bracket. Use the correct size to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Hold nuts or bolts on the opposite side while loosening with a socket.
- Pry bar
- Gently persuade control arm or knuckle for separation; use carefully to avoid damage.
- Hammer (soft-faced and ball-peen)
- Tap stuck bolts or knuckle if needed. Use penetrating oil first.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Soak rusty bolts before loosening to reduce breakage risk.
- Torque wrench (capable of required torque range)
- Essential to tighten suspension fasteners to correct torque. Do not substitute.
- Punch and drift or chisel
- Help remove stubborn bolts or split tapered joints (use carefully).
- Flat screwdriver or small pry tool
- Remove clips and hoses from brackets.

- Tools you may need (specialized) — why they are required and how to use them
- Strut spring compressor (for disassembling a strut)
- Purpose: safely compresses the coil spring so the top strut nut can be removed.
- How to use: attach two compressors on opposite sides of the spring, tighten each step-by-step evenly until spring tension is fully released from the strut top mount; never compress only one side. Follow the compressor’s instructions. If you don’t have one or are unsure, do not attempt to remove a spring — use a complete strut assembly instead.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Speeds removal of stubborn nuts; use with care. If you don’t have one, a breaker bar and penetrating oil work, but expect more effort.
- Strut nut socket or thin-walled socket and an Allen/hex key (if required)
- Some struts require holding the piston rod with an Allen key while removing the top nut. If needed, insert the Allen key into the rod end to prevent rotation while loosening the nut.
- Ball joint separator or pickle fork (optional)
- Helps separate lower control arm from knuckle if bolts are seized. Use carefully to avoid boot damage.
- Bench vise (optional)
- Holding the strut rod when removing top nut makes the job easier and safer if you’re competent with a spring compressor.

- Replacement parts you may need and why
- Complete front strut assembly (recommended for beginners)
- Contains new strut, spring, mount, bearing, bump stop, and dust boot; safest option because you don’t have to compress springs.
- Coil spring only (if reusing strut)
- Replace only if spring is sagging, cracked, or corroded. Often sold in pairs.
- Strut mount / bearing
- These wear and cause clunks and steering issues; replace when replacing spring or strut.
- Dust boot and bump stop
- Protects the strut shaft; replace if torn or degraded.
- Top strut nut and lower mounting bolts (recommended)
- Old nuts/bolts may be corroded or stretch; replace with new hardware.
- Sway bar link (if rusted or worn)
- Often removed during strut replacement; replace if play or damaged.
- Brake line bracket / clips (if damaged)
- Replace any broken clips that hold brake lines to the strut.

- Procedure — summary for two approaches (complete assembly replacement vs spring-only)
- Replacing complete strut assembly (recommended for beginners)
- Lift, chock wheels, and safely support car on jack stands.
- Remove wheel.
- Remove sway bar end link from strut (support control arm if needed).
- Remove brake hose/bracket and ABS sensor wires from the strut.
- Loosen but do not remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts while car is supported on jack stands; once supported, remove the bolts and lower the control arm slightly if needed to free the strut.
- Remove upper strut mount nuts inside the engine bay (retain or remove strut assembly).
- Remove the complete strut assembly from the car.
- Install new complete strut assembly into position, loosely fit upper nuts, then align bottom into knuckle and insert bolts. Torque lower and upper fasteners to factory specs using a torque wrench.
- Reattach sway bar link, brake line bracket, and ABS wiring. Reinstall wheel, lower car, torque lug nuts to spec, and get an alignment.
- Replacing coil spring only (requires spring compressor; do not attempt without it)
- Follow same removal steps above to remove complete strut from vehicle.
- Secure the strut assembly in a bench vise or stable area (vise jaws on strut body, not on shaft).
- Attach two spring compressors opposite each other on the spring, tighten them alternately and evenly until spring is fully compressed and pressure is off the top mount.
- Hold the strut rod (Allen key or appropriate holding method) and remove the top nut. Carefully remove top mount, dust boot, bump stop, and spring.
- Inspect and replace strut mount, dust boot, bump stop, and top nut as needed.
- Install new spring (correct orientation) onto strut, reassemble mount and nut, slowly and evenly release the spring compressors, ensuring spring seats correctly on both ends.
- Reinstall the strut assembly into car and follow reassembly steps above. Get alignment afterward.

- Important tips and reminders
- Replace parts in pairs (both front struts/springs) to maintain balanced handling.
- Always use a torque wrench and tighten to the vehicle manufacturer’s specified torque values (consult a repair manual or dealer).
- Mark spring orientation and ride height pieces so the new spring is installed the same way.
- Check sway bar end links, control arm bushings, and tie rod ends while you’re in there; replace worn components.
- After reassembly, test drive cautiously, then have a professional alignment done immediately.
- Dispose of old springs and parts safely at a recycle facility or parts store that accepts auto parts.

- Final safety and quality note
- This is a moderate to high-risk repair for a beginner if you plan to disassemble springs. If you do not have the correct spring compressor, a torque wrench, and confidence with suspension work, buy complete front strut assemblies and have the alignment done professionally. If unsure at any point, get the job done by a qualified mechanic.
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