1) Quick theory (what a brake line does)
- The hydraulic system transmits force from the master cylinder to calipers/wheel cylinders using incompressible brake fluid in a closed circuit of rigid steel lines and flexible rubber/metal hoses.
- Brake line integrity (no leaks, no air) is essential: leaks lower system pressure; air compresses and gives a soft/low pedal. Corrosion/physical damage weakens lines or creates blockages.
- Replacing a damaged line restores a continuous, leak‑free fluid path and correct line geometry, preventing pressure loss, eliminating source of air ingress and mechanical chafing that can cause future failures.

2) Preparations (theory + safety)
- Theory: Brake fluid is hygroscopic and corrosive to paint; contamination or wrong fluid reduces performance. Use the correct DOT spec (check vehicle spec, typically DOT4 for Renault/Mitsubishi diesels).
- Safety: Work on level ground, wheel chocks, jack stands under strong points, wear eye protection & gloves. Prevent paint contact with fluid. Have a catch container and rags. Follow torque and flare standards — do not reuse damaged fittings or hose assemblies.

3) Tools & parts (what matters and why)
- New line(s): either OE pre-formed steel line or correct-diameter steel tubing plus correct double-flare ends, or approved flexible hose assemblies where used. Theory: double flares and crush washers ensure metal‑to‑metal seals under high pressure.
- Line wrenches (flare nut wrenches) to avoid rounding fittings; banjo bolt socket for calipers; tube bender/cutter and double‑flare tool if making lines; brake hose clamps; flare nut seal washers (if applicable); new copper crush washers for banjo bolts; torque wrench; vacuum or pressure bleeder; scan tool to cycle ABS if equipped.
- Cleaners: brake cleaner, brake fluid, rags.

4) Diagnosis confirmation (what you verify and why)
- Confirm leak location (visual wetness, dried fluid, corrosion). Theory: leak is the primary cause, not master cylinder or caliper. Trace from caliper/hose unions along hard line to the master valve/ABS.
- If ABS/valve suspected, check for localized leaks around the modulator. ABS components complicate bleeding and may require electronic actuation to purge air.

5) Order of the repair (step-by-step, in order — with why)
1. Park, relieve system pressure (pump pedal several times with engine off, then hold depressed while opening reservoir cap) — why: prevents fluid spray and reduces pressure.
2. Raise vehicle and remove wheel(s) to access the line(s) — why: visual and working access.
3. Protect painted surfaces and collect fluid under the line to be removed. Place drain container and cover suspension/paint. — why: brake fluid damages paint; clean removal prevents contamination.
4. Identify fittings and mark routing/clips before removal; photograph for reinstallation orientation — why: correct routing prevents chafe and ensures correct length/fit.
5. Loosen and remove the outboard fitting first (caliper banjo bolt or flex-hose-to-caliper), using proper flare/banjo tools; replace crush washers on reassembly — why: separates the most vulnerable flexible section first and prevents contamination backflow.
6. Cap or plug lines immediately after removal to prevent contamination and fluid loss (use clean caps/plugs) — why: keeps system clean and limits air entry.
7. Remove the rigid line at its joints or unbolt clips and fittings along the chassis, then remove from master valve/ABS or proportioning valve last — why: minimizing fluid spillage and keeping the reservoir/master sealed until necessary.
8. Prepare the replacement line: if using pre-bent OE line, check fit; if fabricating, cut to length, deburr, and form double flares to spec. Inspect threads and flares for uniformity — why: correct flares and clean cuts ensure leak‑free joints.
9. Reinstall rigid line routing exactly as original, secure clips, and tighten flare nuts to manufacturer torque (or snug per spec) — why: prevents vibration and chafe that cause future leaks. Do not overtighten flares (causes cracking).
10. Reconnect flexible hose or banjo to caliper using new crush washers and correct torque; leave reservoir cap off but cover with a clean cloth — why: final connections last reduces air ingress and limits contamination.
11. When the last connection is made, fill reservoir with clean specified brake fluid and top up as needed.
12. Bleed the brakes using the correct sequence (theory: bleed farthest wheel from master cylinder first to displace air): typically far rear, near rear, far front, near front — but use the vehicle manual for exact sequence and RHD/LHD differences. If ABS present, use scan tool to cycle the pump and valves while bleeding or follow manufacturer ABS bleed procedure — why: ABS can trap air and requires active cycling to purge.
13. Use a pressure/vacuum bleeder or two-person pump-and-hold method until no air bubbles and pedal is firm; if pedal remains spongy, bench-bleed master and repeat system bleed — why: complete air removal is essential; bench-bleeding eliminates air in the master before system fill.
14. Inspect all joints for leaks under static and applied pressure (with assistant pressing pedal): check for weeping, then torque recheck per manual. Clean any spilled fluid immediately.
15. Reinstall wheels, lower vehicle, road-test at low speed confirming firm pedal, no ABS warnings, repeat checks for leaks. If ABS light persists, scan for stored fault codes and perform ABS bleed cycle.

6) How the repair fixes the fault (concise, theory)
- Leak or corrosion in a line allows brake fluid to escape and air to enter. Because air is compressible, the pedal travels further under load and braking force at the caliper is reduced — symptoms: soft pedal, longer stopping distance, visible fluid loss.
- Replacing the damaged line restores a sealed, rigid path so pressure generated at the master cylinder transmits directly to the calipers/wheel cylinders. Removing air through bleeding removes compressible elements from the circuit. Proper routing and securing prevents future mechanical failure. Replacing crush washers and using correct flares ensures metal-to-metal seals that withstand braking pressure without leakage.

7) Common pitfalls and how they undermine the repair (what to avoid)
- Reusing flare fittings or crush washers — leads to leaks.
- Poor flares or damaged tubing — causes hidden leaks or cracks under pressure.
- Not fully bleeding (or ignoring ABS bleeding) — residual air keeps pedal soft.
- Contaminated fluid or dirt introduced during work — degrades caliper seals and master cylinder.
- Wrong fluid type — can damage rubber components and change boiling point.

8) Final verification (what to confirm and why)
- No visible leaks at any fitting under pedal pressure.
- Firm, non-spongy pedal with consistent feel when engine off and with engine running.
- ABS light off and no fault codes.
- Short low-speed brake test confirming normal stopping.
- Recheck torque and clips after a short test drive.

That is the ordered repair logic, the theoretical basis at each stage, and how replacing a brake line remedies the hydraulic fault.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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Tools & supplies (minimum)
- Metric hand tools: 8–24 mm sockets, ratchets, extensions, combination wrenches, hex/Allen, Torx as needed.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm range).
- Snap-ring / circlip pliers (internal & external).
- Hydraulic press (or 2‑ton shop press) and arbor/receivers.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer.
- Soft‑faced mallet, brass drift punches.
- Seal driver set / appropriate diameter sockets.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base.
- Feeler gauges, micrometer/calipers.
- Depth gauge or digital bore gauge (if available).
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack + support blocks.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if removing transaxle).
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, solvent.
- Assembly lube or ATF for pre‑lubrication.
- New transmission fluid, torque converter fluid (as required).
- New planetary gearset kit (sun gear, planets, carrier or carrier bearings if sold together) OR individual replacement gears.
- New bearings, races, thrust washers/shims, snap rings/circlips, oil seals, gaskets, transmission filter.
- Drain pan, shop manual (vehicle specific values/specs).

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat level surface, chock wheels. Use quality jack stands – never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, and a respirator if using solvents.
- Depressurize/empty transmission fluid into a proper container (hot fluid causes burns).
- Support engine/transmission properly with a transmission jack or engine support bar when separating.
- Keep work area clean; contamination kills transmissions — cap openings immediately.

Overview of procedure (step‑by‑step)
Note: This is a general, workshop‑level procedure for replacing a planetary gear set in a transaxle used with F9Q engines. Always follow the vehicle’s service manual for exact removal order, torque specs, and shim/backlash values.

1) Preparation, diagnosis & parts
- Confirm planetary carrier is damaged (noise, slipping, gear teeth damage). Order the correct planetary kit and associated bearings, circlips, thrust washers, seals, filter and gasket kit.
- Have the shop manual/spec sheet to reference torque specs and clearance values before starting.

2) Vehicle & transmission removal
- Disconnect battery.
- Raise vehicle; support on jack stands.
- Drain transmission fluid into pan.
- Remove driveshafts/half shafts (axles), starter, exhaust or heat shields necessary for access.
- Disconnect electrical connectors, speed sensors, shift linkages.
- Support engine if needed (engine support bar) and support trans with transmission jack.
- Unbolt transaxle from engine (bellhousing bolts) and crossmember; drop trans carefully.

3) Initial disassembly
- Clean external case before opening to prevent contamination.
- Remove transmission oil pan and filter (if applicable) to remove fluid and clear valve body area.
- Remove valve body/solenoids if required for access to internal assemblies (follow labelling/no-mix rules for bolts).
- Remove transaxle cover and separate case halves if necessary to access planetary assembly.

4) Remove planetary carrier assembly
- Identify and mark the orientation of shafts, gears, and any indexed parts.
- Remove snap rings/circlips using proper pliers to free shafts and carriers.
- Withdraw sun gear and planet carrier as an assembly. Use gentle tapping/drift as required.
- If carrier is stuck, use puller or press to remove rather than hammering.

5) Disassemble planetary carrier
- Remove planet gears from carrier by removing retaining pins/circlips; note orientation.
- Remove bearings from carrier, planet shafts, and sun gear using bearing puller or press.
- Keep parts organized and clean for inspection.

6) Inspect & measure components
- Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, broken teeth, scoring and heat discoloration.
- Measure bearing bores, shaft diameters, and tooth wear. Compare to manual tolerances.
- Inspect ring gear and case mating surface for wear or cracking.
- Replace all bearings, thrust washers, snap rings, and seals. If any gear shows excessive wear, replace the entire planetary set.

7) Install new bearings & gears (use press/driver)
- Press new bearings on shafts and into carrier using a hydraulic press and appropriate arbor (press on race not seal). Use gentle, even pressure.
- Use a seal driver/socket to install new oil seals squarely without distorting lips.
- Fit new planet gears onto shafts and install new circlips. Make sure circlips seat fully in groove.

How the tools are used (details)
- Snap‑ring pliers: use the correct jaw (internal vs external). Squeeze gently to expand/compress ring; don’t overstress pliers or ring.
- Hydraulic press: support parts on receivers so force is applied to the bearing race you intend to press. Press slowly and evenly; stop if misalignment occurs. Use a sleeve to support outer/inner as needed.
- Bearing puller/slide hammer: attach evenly to bearing race and pull straight to avoid brinelling. If a bearing is stubborn, heat the outer housing lightly (not fuel or open flame) to expand metal, then remove.
- Dial indicator: mount the base solid to carrier or housing, tip against ring gear tooth root and rotate to read backlash; measure runout and endplay. Dial indicator helps set correct backlash (backlash spec MUST come from manual).
- Torque wrench: use calibrated tool, torque bolts in sequence and to specified torque.

8) Set shims, endplay, backlash
- Install planetary carrier into case with new thrust washers/shims. Use dial indicator to measure ring gear backlash and carrier endplay. Adjust shim thickness until endplay/backlash are within spec in the manual.
- Common method: add or subtract shim thickness on carrier to achieve correct carrier-to-ring gear clearance and bearing preload.
- Typical pitfalls: mixing up shim piles, not cleaning shims, and not checking endplay after final torquing.

9) Reassembly of transmission
- Reinstall sun gear, input/output shafts, and reassemble any removed gearsets, ensuring all circlips and retainers are seated.
- Replace transmission filter and gaskets.
- Reinstall valve body and pan; use new pan gasket or RTV where specified.
- Torque case and cover bolts in correct sequence and to spec.

10) Reinstall transmission to vehicle
- Lift transmission and mate to engine, aligning dowel pins. Hand‑start bellhousing bolts, torque to spec.
- Reconnect torque converter to flexplate/drive bolts (if removed) and torque bolts to spec. Ensure torque converter is fully seated onto pump before bolt-up.
- Reinstall axles, crossmember, exhaust sections, electrical connectors, sensor harnesses, and any removed components.

11) Fluids & final checks
- Refill with correct type and volume of ATF or specified fluid.
- Reconnect battery and start engine; check for leaks.
- Cycle through shift ranges with vehicle supported to circulate fluid and check operation.
- Road test following warm‑up; recheck fluid level per manufacturer procedure (often with engine running and at operating temp, in park or neutral depending on model).

Replacement parts required (recommended)
- Planetary gearset (carrier, planet gears, sun gear, ring gear) — replace whole kit if any damaged.
- All associated bearings (carrier bearings, needle rollers), races.
- New snap rings/circlips, thrust washers/shims.
- Seals (input/output shaft seals), oil pan gasket, transmission filter.
- Transmission fluid (fill & top‑up).
- Torque converter bolts (replace if single‑use).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing snap rings, bearings, or seals: always replace these wear items.
- Contamination: dirt or metal debris during assembly will destroy a transaxle; keep parts very clean and cap openings immediately.
- Incorrect shim selection: mixups cause wrong backlash/preload → premature failure. Label shim stacks and follow manual procedure.
- Improper bearing installation: press on the correct race; pressing on the wrong surface will damage bearing.
- Not fully seating torque converter: if not fully engaged, pump damage occurs when starting — ensure full seating and proper bolt torques.
- Over/under‑torquing bolts: use a calibrated torque wrench and correct sequence.
- Ignoring related damage: worn pump, clutch packs, or seals should be replaced at same time if wear is evident.
- Skipping break‑in & fluid change: some rebuilds require a fluid change after break‑in (follow manual).

Final notes
- Exact torque values, shim thicknesses, and backlash/endplay specs are model‑specific. Use the Mitsubishi/Renault service manual for the F9Q transaxle you’re working on for those numbers.
- If uncomfortable with press work, measuring backlash, or removing the transaxle, have a professional transmission shop perform the job — errors are expensive.

End.
rteeqp73