Summary
- Two realistic repair paths: (A) diagnose and repair external/control components that operate the torque‑converter lock‑up (solenoids, valve body, wiring, hydraulic pressure), or (B) remove gearbox and replace/rebuild the torque converter assembly (internal lock‑up clutch replacement). Internal lock‑up clutch work is usually replaced as an assembly or sent to a specialist — non‑specialist bench rebuilds are not recommended because of balancing and press‑fit operations.

Safety & preparatory precautions
- Work on a level surface, wheel chocks front and rear.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use an engine support or stud mount to support engine if transmission removal will separate engine mounts.
- Use a rated transmission jack and safety stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection when needed.
- Drain ATF into a clean container. Dispose or store fluid to avoid contamination and label it.
- Observe hot components; allow engine & transmission to cool.
- Have factory workshop manual available for vehicle‑specific bolt torques, fluid type and capacities, and electrical connector locations.

Tools needed
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (deep & shallow), combination wrenches, extensions, universal joints.
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm).
- Transmission jack or equivalent with adapter.
- Engine support bar or hoist (if engine must be supported).
- Fluid drain pan and fluid pump for refilling.
- Pry bars, flat screwdriver set, hammer, punch set.
- Seal driver set / plastic mallet.
- Snap ring pliers.
- Clutch alignment tool (for torque converter engagement alignment when sliding transmission in).
- Puller set (flexplate/convertor if required).
- Multimeter and OBD‑II scanner capable of reading transmission codes.
- Hydraulic pressure gauge kit for automatic transmissions (for testing line pressure and lock‑up).
- Thread locker, anti‑seize.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, parts trays.
- Special tools (vehicle manual may list): converter holding tool, transmission input shaft alignment guide, torque converter bolt socket, valve body separator tool.
- Replacement torque converter or rebuild kit (if internal work), filter and pan gasket, new ATF specified for gearbox, new torque converter bolts (if single‑use), pump seals/o‑rings if required.

Common failure symptoms (diagnose first)
- Shudder or vibration when cruising at certain speeds (lock‑up clutch shudder).
- Loss of lock‑up (reduced fuel economy and higher RPMs).
- Slipping during torque‑converter engagement, delayed engagement.
- Transmission fault codes: P0740 (torque converter clutch circuit), P0741 (TC stuck off), P0742/3 (apply/release solenoid faults), or pressure‑related codes.
- Low or contaminated ATF.

Step‑by‑step: Path A — Control/hydraulic repair (no converter removal)
1. Read codes and live data with scanner. Note torque converter clutch (TCC) status, solenoid commands and actuals, line pressure.
2. Check ATF level, color, smell, contamination. Replace fluid & filter if dirty. Use correct ATF type per manual.
3. Inspect wiring and connectors to TCC solenoid(s) and TCM. Repair corroded or broken wiring.
4. Test solenoid resistance with multimeter; compare to spec. Apply 12V (bench test) to confirm plunger movement if safe. Replace solenoid if out of spec.
5. Use hydraulic pressure gauge at test port to confirm converter apply/release pressures when commanded by TCM. Follow manual test procedure. If pressure low: inspect inlet screen, pump, and pressure regulator.
6. Remove valve body if necessary: clean valve body carefully, inspect valves, springs and bores. Replace worn valve body parts or valve body gasket/seals. Clean all passages with appropriate cleaner and compressed air. Replace solenoids as required.
7. Reinstall pan with new filter and gasket, refill with correct ATF, clear codes, and road‑test. Monitor lock‑up behavior and scanner PID for TCC engagement.
Notes: This route fixes many lock‑up issues caused by electrical or hydraulic faults without removing the torque converter.

Step‑by‑step: Path B — Replace/remove torque converter assembly (internal clutch)
A. Preparation and removal
1. Follow workshop manual for vehicle lifting points. Raise vehicle and secure on stands.
2. Remove transmission pan and drain fluid. Remove any skid plates, splash shields, airbox components, exhaust sections if blocking transmission removal.
3. Disconnect drive shafts / CV joints (on transaxles remove halfshafts from hub), speedometer cable/sensor, gear selector linkage, electrical connectors to transmission and starter, cooler lines (cap lines to prevent contamination), and any cross‑member/transmission mount bolts. Label connectors.
4. Support engine with engine support or hoist if transmission removal separates mounts.
5. Use transmission jack to support gearbox. Remove gearbox bellhousing bolts from engine block/starter/flywheel area. Remove torque converter housing bolts through inspection hole if accessible or remove gearbox slightly to access. Carefully slide gearbox back until input shaft clears. Remove gearbox down and away on the transmission jack. Keep it level.
6. Inspect flexplate/flywheel for damage. With gearbox removed, the torque converter will still be on the transmission input shaft; carefully unbolt converter from flexplate: rotate engine to access bolts, remove bolts while supporting torque converter with jack or strap. Typically converter is bolted to flywheel via 6–8 bolts; use correct socket and hold converter. Pull converter away from flywheel then remove from transmission (or vice versa depending on removal order).

B. Converter removal and assessment
1. If replacing converter: compare part numbers, inspect splines and seal surfaces. Replace converter with OE or remanufactured unit.
2. If rebuilding: note most rebuilds should be done by specialist shop. Internal clutch packs require press tools, new friction plates, springs, seals, and dynamic balancing. If you still intend to proceed, remove front cover, separate turbine/stator/clutch components on a bench press, replace friction material, replace bushings and seals, reassemble, and balance. (Warning: balancing and proper fitment are critical — poor rebuild causes vibration and catastrophic failure.)

C. Related replacement parts to install when converter removed
- Torque converter assembly (recommended new or remanufactured).
- Input shaft seal (pump seal) and housing O‑rings.
- Transmission filter and pan gasket.
- ATF (full refill to correct level), any cooler line O‑rings.
- Converter mounting bolts (use new if one‑time torque/lock style).
- Flexplate/flywheel bolts if damaged.
- If gearbox internal wear found during removal, replace bearings/seals/pump as required.

D. Installation
1. Inspect input shaft spline and pump bore; clean and lightly lube with fresh ATF on splines.
2. Install torque converter onto transmission input shaft: push converter fully in until it seats onto the pump. You must feel/achieve three distinct seating positions: initial engagement, intermediate (statior/stub), and fully seated against the pump—refer to manual for required distance/clearance. Rotate converter as you push to align splines.
3. Measure and confirm converter recess depth relative to bellhousing face per manual (gauge or measure distance). This is crucial; too shallow or too deep will damage pump at startup.
4. Lift gearbox with transmission jack and carefully slide onto engine input while guiding converter to engage crank pilot and flexplate. Start with transmission slightly back so converter doesn’t hit crank. Once input shaft mates, slide transmission fully forward until bellhousing contacts block. Install bellhousing bolts finger tight.
5. Install a couple of converter-to-flywheel bolts to hold converter position; then torque bolts to spec in a crisscross pattern (use thread locker if specified).
6. Torque all bellhousing bolts to spec, reinstall mounts, cross‑member, drive shafts, cooler lines, electrical connectors, selector linkages, starter, shields, and exhaust components removed.
7. Refit pan with new gasket and filter. Refill transmission with specified ATF.
8. Reconnect battery, start engine with park/neutral, let pump build pressure and circulate fluid for a minute, check for leaks. With foot on brake and vehicle in park, cycle through gears to allow fluid distribution, then check fluid level hot per manual.
9. Clear codes, perform initial road test with scan tool monitoring TCC engagement. Check for noises, shudders, or leaks.

How the key tools are used
- Transmission jack: supports and raises/lower gearbox safely and keeps alignment while installing/removing. Use adapter to cradle transmission body.
- Torque wrench: torque bellhousing bolts, converter bolts, and mount bolts to specified values; prevents under/over tightening causing distortion or loosening.
- Hydraulic pressure gauge: plugs into test port to read line pressures; used to verify pump/valve body function and TCC apply pressure when commanded.
- Multimeter/scan tool: checks solenoid resistance, wiring continuity and TCM commands; reads freeze‑frame codes and live PIDs for lock‑up engagement.
- Seal driver: installs new input seals squarely without damage.
- Pry bars/punches: used carefully to separate transmission from engine if stuck (avoid damaging bellhousing faces).

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not supporting engine when removing trans: can drop or stress mounts — always support engine.
- Sliding transmission on/off without converter fully seated: this will damage pump and splines — always confirm full seating depth.
- Reusing old seals and gaskets: causes leaks — always replace seals, filter and pan gasket.
- Using wrong ATF type/capacity: results in improper clutch operation — use manufacturer specification.
- Not torquing converter/flywheel bolts to spec: leads to loosening and catastrophic failure. Use locking thread locker where specified.
- Not replacing or testing solenoids/valve body before major teardown: many problems solved without full removal.
- Attempting to bench‑rebuilt torque converters without balancing equipment: leads to vibration and premature failure — prefer remanufactured OE unit.
- Contaminating new fluid during refill: always use clean funnels, and keep lines capped until install.

Final checks and break‑in
- After reassembly and correct fluid level, perform a controlled road test: accelerate gently, let transmission shift through gears, and monitor for lock‑up engagement, shudder, leaks and codes.
- Many rebuilt or new torque converters recommend a light break‑in (gentle driving first 100–200 km). Follow remanufacturer instructions if supplied.

Parts typically required (minimum list)
- Torque converter (new or remanufactured) or rebuild kit if using specialist rebuilder.
- Transmission filter, pan gasket, and fluid.
- Input shaft/pump seal(s) and O‑rings.
- Torque converter mounting bolts (replace if single‑use).
- Valve body solenoids (if faulty), wiring repairs as necessary.

Notes / recommendations
- For F9Q applications, verify the vehicle's exact gearbox model and torque converter part number with a VIN/parts database.
- If symptoms are intermittent or only appear under load/specific speeds, perform full electrical and hydraulic diagnostics (scanner + pressure gauge) before full transmission removal.
- When in doubt about internal converter repair, use a remanufactured OE converter from a reputable supplier or send the converter to a specialist rebuilder who provides balancing and warranty.

End.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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