Tools & supplies
- Floor jack, jack stands or lift; wheel chocks
- Drain pan (large)
- Metric socket set (8, 10, 12, 13 mm common), deep sockets, extensions, universal joint
- Torque wrench (0–150 Nm range) — for all final fastener torques
- Ratchet, T-handle/hex/Torx drivers as required by vehicle
- Screwdrivers, pry bar or plastic trim tool
- Pick set (for O-rings/seals)
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or transmission-safe parts cleaner
- Rubber gloves, safety glasses
- Multimeter (for solenoid resistance test)
- OBD2 scanner / bi-directional scan tool (to exercise solenoids and clear codes)
- New shift solenoid(s) (OEM or good-quality aftermarket matching VIN), new solenoid O‑rings/seals
- New valve body/pan gasket and transmission filter (if applicable)
- Correct type and quantity of transmission fluid specified for the vehicle (consult factory spec)
- Thread locker (if factory calls for it) and gasket sealer if required by service manual

Safety precautions (must-follow)
- Work on a flat surface, block wheels, set parking brake.
- Use jack stands under rated lift points — never rely on the jack alone.
- Work with engine/gearbox cool to avoid hot fluid burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before electrical work.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; avoid inhaling cleaners.
- Keep open flame/sparks away from fluid and battery.

Overview/notes before starting
- Locate exact transmission type for the car (VIN/service manual). Solenoid location and fastener types can vary; many designs place shift solenoids on/under the valve body behind the transmission pan.
- If codes indicate a single solenoid, you may only need that one; however, when accessing valve body it’s common to replace all faulty solenoids and the pan gasket/filter.
- Have vehicle manual for torque specs. If you don’t have the exact torque spec, typical shift solenoid bolt torque is low (approx. 6–12 Nm). Final torque must be the factory value.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Prepare vehicle
- Park, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands. Ensure level and safe access to transmission pan area.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.

2. Drain transmission fluid (cleanly)
- Place drain pan under transmission pan.
- If pan has a drain plug, remove it; if not, loosen pan bolts on one side to let fluid drain from that side into pan. Remove bolts carefully to avoid sudden fluid surge.
- Allow most fluid to drain. Remove pan completely and set aside.

3. Remove pan, filter & inspect
- Carefully lower pan; expect remaining fluid. Inspect magnet(s) for metal particles (note severity).
- Remove transmission filter (if present) — it may be held by screws or press-fit. Replace with new filter.
- Clean mating surfaces: scrape old gasket material with plastic scraper; clean with solvent. Do not let dirt fall into valve body openings.

4. Access valve body/solenoids
- With pan & filter removed you will see the valve body. In many designs the solenoids are attached to valve body with small bolts and have electrical connectors.
- If required, support the valve body with a hand or block to prevent dropping before loosening bolts. Some procedures call for partial removal of valve body to reach solenoids; follow specific layout.

5. Label and disconnect electrical connectors
- Unclip/label each solenoid connector (use tape/marker) so nothing is mixed up. Depress locking tabs, pull connectors straight off.
- Inspect connectors for corrosion — clean if necessary.

6. Test solenoid (optional but recommended)
- Use multimeter (ohms) across solenoid terminals. Compare resistance to factory spec (typical shift solenoids ~10–40 ohms but vary). A short/open or outside-spec value confirms replacement.
- Use an OBD2 scanner with active test to energize solenoids while watching response (if scanner supports it).

7. Remove faulty solenoid(s)
- Remove the retaining bolts that hold the solenoid assembly to the valve body using correct socket/driver.
- Extract solenoid assembly carefully. Note orientation and O‑ring condition.
- Use pick to remove old O‑rings/seals. Clean bores and mating surfaces with solvent — do not scrape valve body internals harshly.

8. Install new solenoid(s)
- Lightly coat new O‑rings with clean transmission fluid; do not use grease or oils not recommended by manufacturer.
- Insert solenoid straight into bore—avoid twisting or pinching the O‑ring. Ensure correct seating and orientation.
- Install bolts finger-tight, then torque to factory spec. If factory spec not available, use a conservative low torque (e.g., 6–12 Nm) and then obtain proper spec ASAP. Avoid over-tightening which can crack the valve body.

9. Reconnect electrical connectors
- Push each connector on until the locking tab engages. Confirm each is secure.

10. Reinstall valve body (if removed)
- If you removed the valve body, reinstall following torque sequence in service manual. Tighten bolts in sequence in progressive stages to final torque. Reattach any sensors or grounding straps.

11. Install new pan gasket and pan
- Fit new pan gasket or apply new RTV where specified. Clean and reuse or replace pan bolts as required.
- Install pan and torque bolts to spec (cross pattern). Typical pan bolt torque is moderate; refer to spec.

12. Refill with transmission fluid
- Refill with the correct type and quantity (top-up initially — you’ll level after warm-up). Use a funnel or pump. Keep track of fluid used.

13. Reconnect battery and start engine
- Reconnect negative battery.
- Start engine, let idle. With parking brake on, cycle selector through gears slowly, pausing in each position to circulate fluid and purge air.
- Monitor for leaks under pan and at solenoids. Check fluid level per service manual procedure — many require checking at operating temperature with engine idling and transmission in Park or Neutral. Add fluid as needed to reach correct level.

14. Scan for codes and perform adaptations
- Use OBD2 scanner to clear any transmission codes and run solenoid/shift tests if tool supports.
- Perform adaptive reset or transmission relearn procedure if the manufacturer requires.

15. Road test & final check
- Road test vehicle through full operating range, checking for proper shift quality and no slipping or harsh engagement.
- Reinspect for leaks and recheck fluid level after warm-up and post-test.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting valve body: can cause warping/damage. Support it while removing solenoids or bolts.
- Reusing old O‑rings/seals: always replace O‑rings and filter. Old seals leak.
- Contaminated fluid or dirt ingress: keep work area clean, cap lines and openings.
- Over-torquing bolts: can crack aluminum valve body or strip threads. Use torque wrench and factory specs.
- Wrong fluid type: using incorrect ATF damages transmission; confirm manufacturer spec.
- Not bleeding air or cycling gears: causes hard shifts or lag. Follow bleed/run-in steps.
- Mislabeling connectors: can lead to wrong solenoid activation and hard/erratic shifting. Label connectors and positions.
- Not checking electrical: sometimes harness/connector failure is root cause; inspect wiring and pins.
- Skipping scan/relearn: modern transmissions need adaptation resets; skipping causes limp behavior.

Replacement parts checklist
- Correct shift solenoid(s) per VIN (OEM part numbers or verified aftermarket)
- New solenoid O‑rings/seal kit
- Transmission pan gasket and filter (if applicable)
- Correct ATF type and quantity
- New pan bolts if recommended (or torque-to-yield bolts replaced per manual)

How each tool is used (quick)
- Jack/jackstands: lift and secure vehicle.
- Drain pan: catch used fluid.
- Socket set/ratchet: remove pan, solenoid, valve body bolts.
- Torque wrench: final bolt torques to factory values.
- Pick set: remove old O‑rings without damaging bore.
- Multimeter: measure solenoid coil resistance for diagnosis.
- OBD2 scanner: actuate solenoids, read/clear codes, perform adaptation/reset.
- Brake cleaner/solvent & rags: clean mating surfaces and contaminant removal.

Final note
Follow the exact factory service manual for your vehicle (torque specs, fluid type, and any manufacturer-specific steps). Replacement is straightforward if you keep work clean, replace seals/filters, and torque parts correctly.
rteeqp73

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Theory (brief)
- Valve springs keep the valve closed by supplying a restoring force against the cam/lifter. They must have correct seat load and coil stiffness to control valve motion throughout the rpm range.
- Failure modes: weakened set (reduced seat load), broken coils, coil bind, seat/retainer wear, or loss of tension from heat/age. Symptoms: misfire, loss of power, noisy valvetrain, valve float at rpm, bent valves/cam damage if a spring breaks.
- Replacing springs restores required seat load and correct dynamic control of the valve, eliminating float, ensuring proper valve seating (compression/combustion) and protecting cam/valve train components.

Ordered procedure (concise, apply factory specs and safety)
1. Prepare
- Gather correct replacement springs, retainers, collets/keepers, any valve seats/shims required, sealant, assembly lube, and tools: valve-spring compressor suited to the head, torque wrench, feeler gauges, cam/gear locking tools, magnet/pick, basic hand tools.
- Safety: disconnect battery, work on cold engine, relieve fuel system pressure if needed, support the vehicle if removing manifolds.

2. Access cylinder head internals
- Remove components blocking valve cover(s): intake plumbing, airbox, ancillaries, exhaust manifold if required by access, and remove valve cover(s).
- Mark timing position and lock camshafts per factory procedure (TDC on cylinder 1) to prevent cam/valve movement. If required by the engine design, remove or lift camshafts to gain direct access (follow manual).

3. Identify valves to work on and set piston to a safe position
- Work with the valve for a cylinder on a base circle cam lobe (cam lobe not pushing). Typically set engine to TDC for the cylinder you’re servicing so that both valves are closed and springs are unloaded.
- If replacing springs sequentially, do one cylinder at a time to keep valve timing and lifter orientation simpler.

4. Remove cam followers/rocker arms or buckets (if required)
- Remove or move aside rocker arms, cam followers or buckets that interface with the valve you’ll compress, retaining their order and orientation for reinstallation. Keep all parts labeled in order.

5. Compress and remove valve springs
- Install the valve-spring compressor appropriate to the head geometry. Compress the spring until the retainer exposes the small split keepers/collets.
- Remove keepers with a magnet or pick. Slowly release compressor and remove retainer, spring, and spring seat. Keep parts organized.

6. Inspect valves, guides, seats and related parts
- Inspect valve stem for wear/burrs, valve seat condition, valve guide play, retainer and collet condition, and spring seat. Replace or recondition valves/seats/guides as required. Measure spring free length and installed coil bind; compare to manufacturer limits.

7. Install new components
- Clean the valve guide and seat area. Fit new valve stem seals if removed. Place new spring seat (if used), then the new spring and retainer.
- Lightly lubricate contact surfaces with assembly lube where specified. Compress the spring and install keepers; ensure they seat fully in the retainer groove and hold the keeper halves squarely.

8. Reassemble valvetrain
- Reinstall followers/rockers/buckets in their original positions. If camshafts were removed or loosened, reinstall and torque cam caps in the specified sequence and torque to factory values.
- If the engine uses adjustable clearances (shims or screws), reset valve clearance per spec. If hydraulic lash adjusters are used, follow the priming/bleeding or TDC procedure required by the engine.

9. Restore timing and components
- If the cam timing was disturbed, reinstall/retime the timing belt/chain and tension it to spec. Rotate engine by hand two full revolutions and re-check timing marks and clearances.
- Reinstall valve cover(s), manifolds and other removed components. Reconnect battery.

10. Test
- Start engine, listen for abnormal noises, check for oil leaks. Run to operating temp, recheck valve clearances (if required). Road-test and verify resolution of original symptoms.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Replacing weak/broken springs restores required seat load so valves close positively and follow the cam profile. That prevents valve float (valve not following cam at high rpm), loss of compression, misfires, and abnormal noise.
- New springs and proper retainers keep valve timing and seating correct, preventing repeated impact damage between valve and seat or cam and follower. This reduces wear and prevents bent valves/broken cams that result from a spring failure.
- Replacing seats/seals/retainers as needed also restores valve sealing and oil-control, improving combustion, emissions and preventing oil burning.

Notes and cautions
- Use factory torque specs, timing procedures and spring specifications for the F9Q variants. Incorrect cam timing or torques can cause catastrophic engine damage.
- If valve guide/seat wear or valve face damage is present, simply replacing springs is insufficient; head machining or valve replacement will be required.
- If unsure about cam/valve removal or timing procedures, consult the factory service manual or a professional.

No further questions.
rteeqp73